Steam injection oven – Keller style – safe?
#1
Posted 21 December 2012 - 07:25 PM
Now, that idea certainly can work, but isn't that really dangerous? Seems he has a glass door on the oven (like mine) though it's not quite clear to see. Get some cold water on that super heated glass and you will have a great big expensive and potentially quite dangerous mess, no? Same with the baking stone, if you don't aim well and get water on that, won't it shatter?
Has anybody here tried this method? I kind of like the medieval look of rocks and chains in there, but I don't want to risk oven or burns either.....
- Thomas Keller
Diablo Kitchen, my food blog
#2
Posted 21 December 2012 - 07:53 PM
#3
Posted 21 December 2012 - 08:49 PM
#4
Posted 21 December 2012 - 09:04 PM
- Thomas Keller
Diablo Kitchen, my food blog
#5
Posted 22 December 2012 - 09:33 AM
I no longer have a regular oven (long story), but when I did my solution to the steam issue was to place an enameled cast iron grill on the bottom rack of the oven in its lowest position, freeze a thin square sheet of ice (about 1 cm thick) just smaller than the grill and put that on the grill right after I had placed the loaves on a pizza stone on a rack in the second lowest position. (I would preheat both the stone and the grill at the same time.) The ridges hold up the ice as it melts, so the melting water falls to the wells between the ridges and vaporizes quickly. The advantage of this method is that the thin sheet of ice is easy to place quickly and safely. YMMV, but it worked for me.
I don't even get as elaborate as that; I just pop a cast iron pan in the oven, preheat the oven, then, when it's come to temperature, put in the bread, fill the pan with boiling water (an oven mitt is a good idea), and close the door. Works every time. Doesn't look as gnarly as a bunch of rocks and chains, or have the entertainment value of a super soaker, but I survive these privations ;)
#6
Posted 22 December 2012 - 10:27 AM
I've also tried all sorts of other methods in the past. I've often wondered about the effect of water on the electrics, but I think an oven has to be designed to allow for things steaming, as well as stuff potentially boiling over.
#7
Posted 22 December 2012 - 10:46 AM
Bouillie: eating in south Louisiana
#8
Posted 22 December 2012 - 01:53 PM
#9
Posted 22 December 2012 - 02:38 PM
- Thomas Keller
Diablo Kitchen, my food blog
#10
Posted 22 December 2012 - 03:04 PM
Chris Hennes
Director of Operations
chennes@egullet.org
#11
Posted 22 December 2012 - 06:36 PM
#12
Posted 23 December 2012 - 03:49 PM
Interesting ideas here! I never liked baking much, but lately I had fun with the cookies and am considering some bread or maybe even a cake :-)
- Thomas Keller
Diablo Kitchen, my food blog
#13
Posted 23 December 2012 - 08:53 PM
#14
Posted 24 December 2012 - 12:02 AM
"Let's slip out of these wet clothes, and into a dry Martini" - Robert Benchley
Pierogi's eG Foodblog
My *outside* blog, "A Pound Of Yeast"
#15
Posted 24 December 2012 - 10:46 AM
#16
Posted 24 December 2012 - 11:21 AM
What purpose do chains and rocks have over a simple pan of water? Seems squirting a water gun over a pan fulll of rocks wouldn't produce all that much steam, or at least a consistent supply once the initial spray evaporates off.
Rocks (and chains, I guess) can get a lot hotter than water and therefore can store a lot more heat - which the water can use to change phase from liquid to gas (steam). The amount of water will limit the amount of steam and the size/amount of stone will determine how much energy is available for the conversion.
I recall one of my uncle's sauna in the hinterlands. A couple cups of water poured on a large column of heated stones created quite a plume of steam.
#17
Posted 24 December 2012 - 01:20 PM
#18
Posted 24 December 2012 - 09:15 PM
I've never had an issue with the simple cup of water thrown in the bottom of the oven trick though, and haven't heard of glass doors cracking until now.
#19
Posted 25 December 2012 - 12:39 AM
Last winter I made sourdough bread a few dozen times, trying to get the hang of it. I tried many variations on this "steam in oven" approach, and the Lodge cast iron combi cooker favored by the Tartine cookbook:
http://www.amazon.co...r/dp/B0009JKG9M
That's not my favorite shape loaf, but baking inside a Lodge combi cooker worked far better for me than any "steam in oven" approach. Even close cousins, such as Le Creuset pots used by "no knead" sources, or Sassafras Superstone domes, didn't work as well. So at least skim the Tartine approach in a bookstore, to be able to use it for breads where it would be an option?
#20
Posted 25 December 2012 - 04:55 AM
#21
Posted 25 December 2012 - 09:28 AM
I used to not use any water, and I never cracked a window, but my bread was mediocre. After reading the Tartine Bread book, my bread got much better. I also tried small amounts of water for steam, and the effects were nearly indistinguishable from doing nothing at all. In such moments, I taunt myself with memories of 1960's RevereWare pots with that copper film on the bottom. They reassure the cook, with no effect on the food.
Let's give Thomas Keller some credit. He makes his recommendation based on the sincerely held belief that any simpler measure would be far less effective. Tartine Bread makes the same point; it is nearly impossible to reproduce at home the steam in a commercial bread oven, and with far less steam, we're kidding ourselves. The cast iron combo pot is an amazing exception, though it can't be used for everything.
#22
Posted 25 December 2012 - 09:33 AM
One doesn't want consistent steam, any more than one wants consistent smoke in a barbecue pit. Steam, like smoke, is most effective at the beginning.or at least a consistent supply once the initial spray evaporates off.
Edited by Syzygies, 25 December 2012 - 09:33 AM.
#23
Posted 25 December 2012 - 02:39 PM
You'd think modern ovens would include such a feature. I mean, it's water.
I think that's where the Combi Ovens come in.
#24
Posted 26 December 2012 - 08:52 AM
One doesn't want consistent steam, any more than one wants consistent smoke in a barbecue pit. Steam, like smoke, is most effective at the beginning.or at least a consistent supply once the initial spray evaporates off.
One didn't know that. One thanks you :)
#25
Posted 26 December 2012 - 08:55 AM
#26
Posted 27 December 2012 - 10:28 PM
#27
Posted 03 January 2013 - 02:57 PM
- Thomas Keller
Diablo Kitchen, my food blog
#28
Posted 03 January 2013 - 03:57 PM
#29
Posted 04 January 2013 - 03:58 AM
I use the tray with rocks as well as a mist sprayer when baking bread in my electric convection oven and never had any problem with the glass. This was a trick I learnt in a course from the best-known home bread maker in Spain and I know many people that also use it. No problem has been ever reported by any of them, that I know of.I just got Keller's Bouchon Bakery book and in the bread section he suggest to put a tray with rocks and a fat chain on the bottom of the oven, then when you put your dough on the backing stone he appears to suggest using a super soaker or something like that to add a lot of water and slam the door shut.
Now, that idea certainly can work, but isn't that really dangerous? Seems he has a glass door on the oven (like mine) though it's not quite clear to see. Get some cold water on that super heated glass and you will have a great big expensive and potentially quite dangerous mess, no? Same with the baking stone, if you don't aim well and get water on that, won't it shatter?
Has anybody here tried this method? I kind of like the medieval look of rocks and chains in there, but I don't want to risk oven or burns either.....
#30
Posted 04 January 2013 - 08:17 AM









