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Cooking & Curing from "Charcuterie": Part 4

Charcuterie Cookbook

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#481 A Patric

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Posted 29 January 2007 - 06:46 AM

I do like that idea. I think lemon or lime zest would be a great addition. With a micro plane I should be able to get the zest fine enough. Thanks for the suggestion Bombdog.

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If I had to choose between lime zest and kaffir lime leaves, I'd go the lime leaves route. Also, I have made "Thai-style" sausages, and the lemongrass is not a problem. You simply have to grind it as finely as possible. Also, use the softest pieces. Then again, if you are one of those people who have textural issues with food (like my brother, who won't even eat nuts :blink: ), then maybe stick with the lemon zest for the lemon grass. Regarding the fish sauce, I used it more for seasoning than for liquid. Of course it adds liquid, but I'd recommend, as Ron noted, using mostly water.


A few more things that you may or may not wish to add:

shallots (fresh or fried and dried)
shrimp paste (also salty)



Good luck!

Edited by A Patric, 29 January 2007 - 06:52 AM.


#482 Pallee

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Posted 30 January 2007 - 01:03 PM

I've made a few sausages out of this book now, and wanted to try my own recipe. I'm thinking of doing a pork sausage with some Thai flavours. I was planning on using some chili's, garlic, and Thai basil, but was questioning whether to use fish sauce as the liquid base. What do you all think? Maybe dilute it with water. I'm just afraid that the fish sauce might over power the sausage and make it taste too salt. I was also thinking of using lemongrass, but think it might be too woody, and give it a weird texture.

Any other ideas?

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I make a Thai chicken sausage with coconut milk, lemongrass, lime juice, chilis, cilantro, garlic, fish sauce and pepper. Yummy!

#483 jmolinari

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Posted 30 January 2007 - 01:22 PM

If you chop the lemon grass, and put it in a food processor long enough, it basically turns to powder.
check Len Poli's page: home.pacbell.net/lpoli

he has a few thai sausage recipes.

#484 Kent Wang

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Posted 01 February 2007 - 07:30 PM

How's my cured salmon?

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Wrapped some up with avocado. The textures complement very well.

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#485 Sony

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Posted 01 February 2007 - 07:43 PM

How's my cured salmon?

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Wrapped some up with avocado. The textures complement very well.

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Do you even have to ask?

Excuse me- I just drooled on my keyboard.... :raz:

#486 StanSherman

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Posted 02 February 2007 - 04:47 PM

We made the Chicago style hot dogs and they turned out pretty good. Our technique is getting better, but we are still waiting for a new KA mixer, which I think, will help in the emulsification process. I’m hell bent on doing corned beef hot dogs with our own homemade sauerkraut. My idea is to use raw brined beef in the same recipe as the Chicago dogs with the kosher and pink salt cut in half (at least). Do you see any problems?

#487 sandercohan

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Posted 03 February 2007 - 03:08 PM

I got my package of hog casings from butcher & packer, and I'm going to embark on some sausage making and football tomorrow afternoon.

It's likely that I won't use the entire package -- how much salt should I use to re-pack my leftovers? Just salt? or a heavy brine?

s

#488 Abra

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Posted 03 February 2007 - 03:17 PM

You almost certainly will barely make a dent in your casings! A little goes a very long way, and BP gets a lot into that package. I have never added any salt or brine to the leftovers, just put them back in the fridge in a closed container. After maybe a year they still smell as good as ever.

Stan, I'm not sure why you'd cut the pink salt in half. It's not adding perceptible salt to the mix, but the "cured" flavor that you expect in a hot dog comes right from the pink salt. Without it I'm thinking you'll have basically a beef sausage, as opposed to a hot dog. By the way, when I made that recipe I liked it a lot better with a few drops of liquid smoke added - and I really do mean a few drops.

#489 StanSherman

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Posted 03 February 2007 - 04:33 PM

Stan, I'm not sure why you'd cut the pink salt in half.  It's not adding perceptible salt to the mix, but the "cured" flavor that you expect in a hot dog comes right from the pink salt.  Without it I'm thinking you'll have basically a beef sausage, as opposed to a hot dog.  By the way, when I made that recipe I liked it a lot better with a few drops of liquid smoke added - and I really do mean a few drops.

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I'm concerned that there is so much pink and kosher salt in the corned beef brine that it may get too salty. I thought I'd do a little cold smoke like we did the last batch of hot dogs.

Edited by StanSherman, 03 February 2007 - 04:34 PM.


#490 ronnie_suburban

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Posted 04 February 2007 - 10:44 AM

Nice job, Kent! :smile:

Your pics reminded me of a batch of cold-smoked salmon that I made a few weeks ago for a party. This was made from a really fatty and well-marbled, 4.5-pound side of Wild Tasmanian King Salmon. I cured it (slightly modifying the recipe in the book) for about 60 hours and then cold-smoked it over a mixture of apple and maple wood for about 4 hours. The result was very nice. The fish was so thick that even after a 60-hour cure, it was not overly salty and when it came to room temperature, the fattiness and the mild, sweet smoke showed up even more deliciously than I could have wished for . . .

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I have to say that I've (again) been spoiled by what I've been able to make using this book. I've been keeping home-made cold-smoked salmon around the house for the past few months. I went back and tasted my favorite commercial brand -- the one I used to buy and eat on a regular basis -- and by comparison, it had virtually no flavor. I don't think I can ever go back.

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#491 Michael Ruhlman

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 07:55 AM

Stan, I'm not sure why you'd cut the pink salt in half.  It's not adding perceptible salt to the mix, but the "cured" flavor that you expect in a hot dog comes right from the pink salt.  Without it I'm thinking you'll have basically a beef sausage, as opposed to a hot dog.  By the way, when I made that recipe I liked it a lot better with a few drops of liquid smoke added - and I really do mean a few drops.

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I'm concerned that there is so much pink and kosher salt in the corned beef brine that it may get too salty. I thought I'd do a little cold smoke like we did the last batch of hot dogs.

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you're right to be concerned about the salt level. the brine for the corned beef in charcuterie is salty--compensated for by the fact that it's poached which allows the salt to equalize. assuming the bined beef is perfectly seasoned, I would add salt at a ratio of .3 percent of the weight of the fat, with a fraction of that salt being pink salt.

#492 BRM

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Posted 05 February 2007 - 09:48 AM

I made the Chicken Galantine from the book this weekend. It turned out really well I think. We had some people over for Super Bowl and served it...big hit!

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#493 Norman Walsh

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Posted 07 February 2007 - 12:49 AM

I'm sure that someone more expert would be a more useful respondent, but I'm pretty darned sure that the answer is no, you can't use lard, schmaltz, or bacon drippings instead of uncooked fat. The texture of the fat is crucial to the emulsion, definition, texture, and so on.  There may be recipes that use lard, bacon grease, etc., that's not what you want in the recipes in this book.

Again, I'm pretty sure.

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There is 1 recipe in the book that uses rendered beef suet, for the hot dogs.
Its rendered, strained, chilled and diced.

Maybe you could do the same with lard, after all its pork fat.

wallie

#494 Norman Walsh

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Posted 07 February 2007 - 02:30 AM

I have just finished reading number 37, what a fantastic thread!
You guys and girls have produced some awesome stuff.
Those pictures have me salivating at the mouth and my future charcuterie plans have my head ringing.
Pepperoni, Summer sausage, Andouille, Mortadela, bacon, god where will I start.
I will have to dust down my sausage stuffer which I last used a few year ago and get cracking its going to be stuff, stuff, stuff.
Thankfully I am retired so I will be able to put a few 24 hour shifts in.
Pictures will be popping up shortly.
My sausage stuffer is a hand cranked vertical job which I purchased from Northern Industrial in the UK its great, a lot better than the food mixer stuffer attachments.
Northern is an American company which does great engineering jobs, I have started eyeing up there grinders which are heavily fancied on the UK website www.sausagemaking.org.
Anyhow I have really enjoyed this thread and would like to know if this is the longest thread on EG, if not what is?

wallie

#495 tristar

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Posted 07 February 2007 - 05:23 AM

I made the Chicken Galantine from the book this weekend.  It turned out really well I think.  We had some people over for Super Bowl and served it...big hit!

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Hi everybody, I have a question and as I am away in Africa at the moment and don't have my copy of 'Charcuterie' with me I hope that somebody here will indulge me with an answer. The Chicken Galantine appears to have Pistachio nuts in it, is this the case? If so are these the same as the Pistachio nuts which you can find salted and in snack packs all over the world or are they fresh?

Best Regards,
Richard
"Don't be shy, just give it a try!"

Nungkysman: Food for the Body and the Soul.

#496 jmolinari

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Posted 07 February 2007 - 05:56 AM

The pistachios are the roasted salted or unsalted. Not fresh.

#497 tristar

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Posted 07 February 2007 - 07:21 AM

The pistachios are the roasted salted or unsalted. Not fresh.

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:shock: I wish I had asked this question before, I have spent the last year looking in shops in various countries for fresh ones!

Duh!

This opens up many more chances for experimentation on my return home, thank you so much.

Regards,
"Don't be shy, just give it a try!"

Nungkysman: Food for the Body and the Soul.

#498 BRM

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Posted 07 February 2007 - 11:28 AM

The Chicken Galantine appears to have Pistachio nuts in it, is this the case? If so are these the same as the Pistachio nuts which you can find salted and in snack packs all over the world or are they fresh?

Best Regards,
Richard

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My local Whole Foods Market carries them both salted and unsalted. I opted for unsalted.
Anyone who says I'm hard to shop for doesn't know where to buy beer.

#499 ronnie_suburban

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Posted 07 February 2007 - 11:58 AM

The Chicken Galantine appears to have Pistachio nuts in it, is this the case? If so are these the same as the Pistachio nuts which you can find salted and in snack packs all over the world or are they fresh?

Best Regards,
Richard

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My local Whole Foods Market carries them both salted and unsalted. I opted for unsalted.

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Generally speaking, salted are usually roasted as well. Unsalted are usually raw. In the pates I've made (pictured somewhere upthread), I've always used raw pistachios.

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#500 jmolinari

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Posted 07 February 2007 - 12:16 PM

Ron, i'm not sure about the salted/unsalted roasted/raw argument you make. I have unsalted ones, and they sure look and taste the same as the salted ones (just without the salt!)

jason

#501 BRM

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Posted 09 February 2007 - 11:21 AM

Mine say roasted and unsalted on the package.
Anyone who says I'm hard to shop for doesn't know where to buy beer.

#502 ronnie_suburban

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Posted 09 February 2007 - 11:29 AM

Ron, i'm not sure about the salted/unsalted roasted/raw argument you make. I have unsalted ones, and they sure look and taste the same as the salted ones (just without the salt!)

jason

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Mine say roasted and unsalted on the package.

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Yeah, it's always best to check the label of what you're buying. I've been sourcing my pistachios industrially (because I also use them for other things), and in that venue, the 2 primary categories seem to be 'roasted and salted' or 'raw.'

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#503 Abra

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Posted 09 February 2007 - 12:41 PM

Lovely galantine, BRM!

#504 davecap

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Posted 15 February 2007 - 09:21 AM

Just received some great pork from Mountain View Farms here in PA. They raise heritage pigs on lots of milk. The chops were great, lots of flavor. And as you can see lots of marbling. I have finished curing and smoking the pork belly for bacon but not yet cooked any. I was also able to get some jowls, see below. They have cured and are now hanging for guanciale.

The people who run the farm are very friendly and nice to speak to.

Chops

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Belly

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Jowls

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Mountain View Farms

#505 cricklewood

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Posted 20 February 2007 - 01:17 AM

Jus wanted to post my pics of the Bacon and the smoked pig jowls I made following and adapting the recipes from charcuterie, it was so eay and the results so tasty, I am never buying bacon again.

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#506 jmolinari

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Posted 20 February 2007 - 05:14 AM

beautiful bacon

#507 tristar

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Posted 20 February 2007 - 05:50 AM

beautiful bacon

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And such lovely rosy cheeks, it's your first is it? ............ Do you think he takes after his father? :biggrin:
"Don't be shy, just give it a try!"

Nungkysman: Food for the Body and the Soul.

#508 terapinchef

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Posted 20 February 2007 - 09:01 AM

Help! I'm addicted to Szechwan Sausage! Can anybody help me find/develop a recipie for this wonderful sweet/salty/spicy concoction? Even Chef Brian didn't have a good recipie...Please Helpp!!!!

#509 tristar

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Posted 22 February 2007 - 06:59 AM

Help! I'm addicted to Szechwan Sausage! Can anybody help me find/develop a recipie for this wonderful sweet/salty/spicy concoction? Even Chef Brian didn't have a good recipie...Please Helpp!!!!

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I am not familiar with Szechwan Sausage, but am assuming it is the same as the generic Dried Chinese Sausage known variously as làcháng (臘腸/腊肠), Lop Cheong, Lap Chung, Lap Chong, Lap Cheong, Lap Cheung, Lap Xuong, or Thuong Hang.

If so here is a link which should get you started:Lop Chong On Len Poli's incredible sausage making site.

Found this after the original post which may be of some assistance from The Peoples Daily

The Sichuan sausage is not very hot and spicy as some typical Sichuan dishes such as Mouth-numbing Fish (Ma La Yu), or the Fried tofu with Hot Sauce and Pepper (Ma Po Dou Fu). Nor is it sweet as that type made in South China's Guangdong Province.

The specifics for the making of the Sichuan sausage vary widely even within Sichuan Province. Different families and restaurants may also follow their own secret recipes handed down from the older generations.

But generally speaking, the native specialty in Sichuan is mainly produced with such basic ingredients as shredded fresh pork, with a fair percentage for both fat and lean meats, dotted with fried peanuts and fried sesame.

Sometimes, Sichuan people also replace pork with tofu, or carrot, or a mixture of glutinous rice and red rice, to make Sichuan sausage for vegetarians.

The Sichuan sausage is then seasoned with dried red chili, cooking starch, soy sauce, wild pepper, green cabbage seed oil, table salt, liquor, slices of old ginger, and star anise - but no food colour or gourmet powder are used, according to widely known traditional recipes.


Edited by tristar, 22 February 2007 - 08:12 AM.

"Don't be shy, just give it a try!"

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#510 jeniac42

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Posted 22 February 2007 - 11:57 AM

So I finally thought I was going to make some bacon, as I found skin-on belly at Wholey's, but forgot I needed pink salt. I will have to look back through the thread as I have time to do so. Unfortunately my grocery budget grows tighter and tighter, and making a lot of these items seems like a luxury, which is kind of odd considering that they were originally meant to make use of off cuts and preserve things that might otherwise go to waste.

I was thinking of using my new FoodSaver to vacuum seal the pork belly in with the cure - any thoughts on that? Or would it not allow the requisite escape of liquid?

I did make some venison sausage last week, though I didn't stuff it into casings, having run out of them. The texture was slightly grainier than I'd have liked; probably a result of using belly instead of pork back fat which was unavailable to me.
Jennie





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