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Pate de Fruit Troubles


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#1 merlicky

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Posted 08 November 2012 - 05:55 PM

A number of items in Grewling’s book use a pate de fruit along with a ganache (ex. The PB&Js). I would like to do this with blueberry - a blueberry pate de fruit with a dark chocolate ganache.

I have had 0 luck in getting the pate de fruit to turn out. Perhaps it is technique, perhaps it is ingredients, perhaps it is proportions. I have tried a number of different techniques, cooking temperatures, and cooling methods. I have tried various proportions of pectin to sugar to fruit to acid, etc… The best result I end up with is a sort of grainy jam (though once I left a little of the blueberry puree sitting out for a couple of days and it gelled up pretty good).

Any suggestions on the best way to make pate de fruits? What is the best pectin to use (this could be my main problem since I am using pectin sold for making jam, but I have heard of people using this for pates)?

#2 Baselerd

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Posted 08 November 2012 - 06:32 PM

I feel your pain - I've found that the problem is usually with the pectin formulation. Many recipes don't specify the brand, type, etc; which is unfortunate because from my experience different brands and formulations produce dramatically different results. Some require certain calcium ion concentrations to gel, others are sensitive to pH, and most require a specific amount of sugar. So instead of following recipes that call for "pectin" or "apple pectin", I've found that I have MUCH better luck just following the recipe cards that come with the different brands of pectin. If you want blueberry pate de fruit, just buy some pectin and use your blueberry juice according to the recipe card that comes with the pectin.

Also, it's usually best to figure out if you want high or low sugar content though, because low-sugar pectin is usually low-methoxyl and comes with a separate pouch of calcium salt to induce gelling. High methoxyl pectin gels in the presence of sugar within certain pH ranges.

#3 Kerry Beal

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Posted 08 November 2012 - 07:00 PM

Mike - I find that the apple pectin works the best for PDF. You can get it from Chef Rubber or L'Epicerie.

#4 merlicky

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 01:47 PM

Kerry, at one of the chocolate conferences you gave everyone a handout for pate de fruit proportions to use with the Boiron purees. If you use the apple pectin from Chef Rubber, and make your own puree, are these proportions still likely to work? I called them, but they didn’t seem to have any clue about proper usage with different fruits.

I’d use the Boiron purees, but I live in blueberry country and want this truffle to be one of the locally sourced flavors (and I have a bunch of frozen blueberries).

#5 Kerry Beal

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Posted 09 November 2012 - 03:32 PM

Yup - works fine with your own purees.

#6 chiantiglace

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Posted 13 November 2012 - 09:50 AM

Blueberry has enough pectin to make its own pate de fruit, you don't even need to add apple pectin if you don't want, but you can for a garuntee. And typically the most commonly used pectins are apple pectin and citrus pectin (pectin juane). Test the firmness of your pate de fruit with ice water. Use a spoon to extract a small amount, place it in the ice water until cool and touch it for firmness. Continue cooking the pate until you get the texture you want. You can also quickly strain the pate right before setting it to remove the graininess. Also, the myth about it being irreversible is simply that, a myth. You can gently melt down the pate de fruit and continue cooking, once its in liquid form, to your desired texture.
Dean Anthony Anderson
"If all you have to eat is an egg, you had better know how to cook it properly" ~ Herve This
Pastry Chef: One If By Land Two If By Sea

#7 Kerry Beal

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Posted 13 November 2012 - 02:57 PM

Blueberry has enough pectin to make its own pate de fruit, you don't even need to add apple pectin if you don't want, but you can for a garuntee. And typically the most commonly used pectins are apple pectin and citrus pectin (pectin juane). Test the firmness of your pate de fruit with ice water. Use a spoon to extract a small amount, place it in the ice water until cool and touch it for firmness. Continue cooking the pate until you get the texture you want. You can also quickly strain the pate right before setting it to remove the graininess. Also, the myth about it being irreversible is simply that, a myth. You can gently melt down the pate de fruit and continue cooking, once its in liquid form, to your desired texture.


Not all pectins are reversible.

#8 Kerry Beal

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Posted 13 November 2012 - 04:43 PM

DSCN0733.jpg

30 seconds in the microwave - a bit of bubbling - measures 74º C

DSCN0734.jpg

Total of 60 seconds in the microwave - 113º C - falling apart - but not melted.