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eG Foodblog: nolnacs (2011) - Pork, peaches and pie. Saying goodbye to

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#91 nolnacs

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 06:49 PM

pie 002.JPG

As you can see, I had some blowout despite the fact that I reduced the juices. I probably put too much filling in the pie. It doesn't really bother me except that when it hits the bottom of the oven it starts smoking. I had to put a piece of aluminum foil underneath to catch the spillover.

The crust is actually darker than it appears in the image. It is extremely important to be brave and leave the pie in the oven until it is nicely browned. Pale, anemic looking pie crusts make me sad and they will make you sad too if you have to eat them.

#92 nolnacs

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 06:52 PM

While the pie was in the oven, I did some prep work for tomorrow night's dinner which is an interesting recipe in the NYT that I saw last week. It caught my eye because I have never made london broil before.

Anyway, I just needed to mix up the marinade
pie 003.JPG

and apply it to the steak. I'll be cooking it sous vide tomorrow so I went ahead and put it in a vacuum bag
pie 004.JPG

#93 KatieLoeb

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 06:56 PM

I was bummed the Taco guys were not out yesterday too. :angry: I was really looking forward to some tacos al Pastor, and theirs are like the Holy Grail of al Pastor, at least that I've had. But it was lovely meeting you and the Mrs. and shopping together anyway. The pictures came out great! One small correction:

Beechwood Orchards is where I buy my plums and occasionally peaches. Northstar Orchard is my go to for the heirloom Asian pears, and really great apples as well as Asian pear cider that I use for margaritas. Don't think you caught any pictures of their stand.

Perhaps we'll do the taco lunch another Sunday, blogging or not...

Edited by KatieLoeb, 12 September 2011 - 06:57 PM.

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#94 andiesenji

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Posted 12 September 2011 - 08:40 PM

pie 002.JPG

As you can see, I had some blowout despite the fact that I reduced the juices. I probably put too much filling in the pie. It doesn't really bother me except that when it hits the bottom of the oven it starts smoking. I had to put a piece of aluminum foil underneath to catch the spillover.

The crust is actually darker than it appears in the image. It is extremely important to be brave and leave the pie in the oven until it is nicely browned. Pale, anemic looking pie crusts make me sad and they will make you sad too if you have to eat them.



Just a note about pie baking. I always bake my pies with the pie pan on a sheet pan. I've been doing this since I worked in my mom's bakery back in the mid '50s and it sure saves have to clean gunk off the floor of the oven.
There is also no possibility of messing up the pastry rim when removing the pies from the oven.
"There are, it has been said, two types of people in the world. There are those who say: this glass is half full. And then there are those who say: this glass is half empty. The world belongs, however, to those who can look at the glass and say: What's up with this glass? Excuse me? Excuse me? This is my glass? I don't think so. My glass was full! And it was a bigger glass!" Terry Pratchett
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#95 nolnacs

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 06:06 AM

Just a note about pie baking. I always bake my pies with the pie pan on a sheet pan. I've been doing this since I worked in my mom's bakery back in the mid '50s and it sure saves have to clean gunk off the floor of the oven.
There is also no possibility of messing up the pastry rim when removing the pies from the oven.


I do that sometimes, but I feel like the bottom crust does not get as browned when it is sitting on the sheet pan. Do you find that to be the case as well?

#96 kayb

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 07:48 AM

So what's the character that's cut as a vent into the pie crust?

Looks luscious, btw.
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#97 nolnacs

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 08:18 AM

So what's the character that's cut as a vent into the pie crust?

Looks luscious, btw.


Thanks. The vents don't represent anything. I just start cutting and try to end up with something that looks neat. Thinking about it further though, it definitely seems at least partly inspired by the kanji characters that I (sort of) learned while taking Japanese in high school.

#98 nolnacs

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 04:03 PM

The london broil for last night is now cooking in the water bath. However, my wife wanted a snack so she had some of the Chimay Grand Cru that I picked up at Downtown Cheese on Saturday with some grapes and semolina bread.

I had a bite of the Chimay and it is very good.

chimay.JPG

#99 nolnacs

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 04:07 PM

I'm going to be making bucatini all'amatriciana later this week and I need to decide which meat to go with. Should I use guanciale (right) or pancetta (left)? Guanciale is the more traditional option but I also like pancetta in this dish.

meats.JPG

#100 heidih

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 04:32 PM

Are those meats you cured? I have no input on the dish as I am not familiar.
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#101 Nayan Gowda

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 04:41 PM

Only one way to find out.

Do a taste off and let us know which works best. (I favour guanciale, personally)
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#102 nolnacs

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 05:07 PM

Are those meats you cured? I have no input on the dish as I am not familiar.


They are. Pancetta is from the belly and guanciale is the jowl. After they were finished curing I chopped most of them up into roughly 1/3 lb pieces, vacuum sealed and froze.

#103 nolnacs

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 05:12 PM

Doesn't look so attractive after it comes out of the water bath
meat1.JPG

Thankfully, I have Mr. Torch here to help out

meat2.JPG

meat3.JPG

Much better, but I still need to work on my torching technique.

meat4.JPG

Sliced and ready to eat
meat5.JPG

Simple salad to accompany the meat - mixed greens, chopped yellow tomatoes and a vinaigrette (olive oil, sherry vinegar, mustard, salt & pepper)
salad0.JPG

All together now

salad1.JPG

Well, this meal was disappointing. The flavor of the london broil itself was decent, but I didn't really get any of the flavors of the marinade. I was perhaps too aggressive at brushing off the bits in the marinade.

This brings me to my meat rankings. If I had a duck magnet, it would probably fit in above the chicken.

Favorite to least favorite
meat scale.JPG

#104 andiesenji

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 05:14 PM


Just a note about pie baking. I always bake my pies with the pie pan on a sheet pan. I've been doing this since I worked in my mom's bakery back in the mid '50s and it sure saves have to clean gunk off the floor of the oven.
There is also no possibility of messing up the pastry rim when removing the pies from the oven.


I do that sometimes, but I feel like the bottom crust does not get as browned when it is sitting on the sheet pan. Do you find that to be the case as well?


Not really. If I am going to bake a really sloppy pie with fruit that produces a lot of liquid (berries, for instance), I have a "trick"
I slightly pre-bake the bottom shell on the outside of an inverted pie pan with the outer edges covered with a ring of aluminum foil to keep that part from baking.
My grandpa's cook did this so I have always done it. And you don't need any "tools" to keep the dough from slumping.

I also use a dark sheet pan which also promotes bottom browning.

Edited by andiesenji, 13 September 2011 - 05:17 PM.

"There are, it has been said, two types of people in the world. There are those who say: this glass is half full. And then there are those who say: this glass is half empty. The world belongs, however, to those who can look at the glass and say: What's up with this glass? Excuse me? Excuse me? This is my glass? I don't think so. My glass was full! And it was a bigger glass!" Terry Pratchett
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#105 nolnacs

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 06:28 PM

Not really. If I am going to bake a really sloppy pie with fruit that produces a lot of liquid (berries, for instance), I have a "trick"
I slightly pre-bake the bottom shell on the outside of an inverted pie pan with the outer edges covered with a ring of aluminum foil to keep that part from baking.
My grandpa's cook did this so I have always done it. And you don't need any "tools" to keep the dough from slumping.

I also use a dark sheet pan which also promotes bottom browning.


Interesting, I've never heard of that trick before. I'll have to try it out. How long do you usually do the pre-bake?

My sheet pans are lighter in color so maybe that is why I think that it affects the bottom browning. Then again, it might just be all in my head.

#106 nolnacs

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 06:31 PM

Only one way to find out.

Do a taste off and let us know which works best. (I favour guanciale, personally)



Well, I've made it with both before and it is one of my favorite dishes either way. Sometimes I like the meatiness of the pancetta and sometimes the unctuousness of the guanciale. My question was more about which one people here would like to see in use.

#107 heidih

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 06:40 PM

Where did you get the adorable and informative fridge magnets?

Personally it is not so much the animal as the cut that influences my preferences. A generic dry pork loin (not a tenderloin) ranks well below a factory chicken thigh. Pork neck and butt - well they are at the top of the heap. Beef flap meat, veal shank and lamb shank - heavenly. Chewy flavorless grocery store beef London broil - hand me an umami MSG laden sauce please.
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#108 FrogPrincesse

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 07:10 PM

I vote for the guanciale!

I think I have the same fridge magnets - from Alton Brown's I am Just Here for the Food, I believe?

It looks like you have been REALLY busy this week. Your blog is a lot of fun to follow! I hope you don't die from exhaustion when the week ends. :biggrin:

#109 nolnacs

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 07:20 PM

I vote for the guanciale!

I think I have the same fridge magnets - from Alton Brown's I am Just Here for the Food, I believe?

It looks like you have been REALLY busy this week. Your blog is a lot of fun to follow! I hope you don't die from exhaustion when the week ends. :biggrin:


Yep, that's where I got the magnets. I must say that I haven't done much with the book other than play with the magnets...

I'm still going strong so far. Let's hope it lasts.

#110 andiesenji

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Posted 13 September 2011 - 09:10 PM



Not really. If I am going to bake a really sloppy pie with fruit that produces a lot of liquid (berries, for instance), I have a "trick"
I slightly pre-bake the bottom shell on the outside of an inverted pie pan with the outer edges covered with a ring of aluminum foil to keep that part from baking.
My grandpa's cook did this so I have always done it. And you don't need any "tools" to keep the dough from slumping.

I also use a dark sheet pan which also promotes bottom browning.


Interesting, I've never heard of that trick before. I'll have to try it out. How long do you usually do the pre-bake?

My sheet pans are lighter in color so maybe that is why I think that it affects the bottom browning. Then again, it might just be all in my head.


Ten minutes.

I allow them to cool then put the pie pan in which the pie will be baked over the crust and invert both then lift the one that held the crust out.

I forgot to mention docking. I have a rolling docker and I run it over the pie dough on the board before transferring it to the pan. That's the way we did it in the bakery and I've never had the patients to use a fork.
"There are, it has been said, two types of people in the world. There are those who say: this glass is half full. And then there are those who say: this glass is half empty. The world belongs, however, to those who can look at the glass and say: What's up with this glass? Excuse me? Excuse me? This is my glass? I don't think so. My glass was full! And it was a bigger glass!" Terry Pratchett
My blog:Books,Cooks,Gadgets&Gardening

#111 nolnacs

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 10:01 AM

I had some of the leftover london broil for lunch today. It actually tasted better today than it did yesterday which strikes me as a bit odd. I know stews and such tend to improve, but steaks?

Anyway, I took some pictures of my kitchen last night to share with you. One of the downsides to where I live is that I have a small, ugly & kind of crappy kitchen. So much so that my kitchen toys (as my wife likes to refer them) spilled out into what was intended to be the dining "room" of our 1 bedroom apartment and became the kitchen annex. I'll post some pictures of that in the next post.

One side of the kitchen - note the lack of counter space
kitchen tour 001.JPG

Other side of the kitchen - still hardly any counter space. I also need a better way to store spoons and such than those two big mugs.
kitchen tour 002.JPG

Cabinet above the stove. I store infrequently used dishes here.
kitchen tour 003.JPG

Next cabinet on that wall has dry goods, some of which have been there for quite some time...
kitchen tour 005.JPG

Cabinet above the refrigerator holds more infrequently used dishes (primarily for dinner parties), vacuum bag rolls and freezer containers.
kitchen tour 006.JPG

On the other wall we have the daily dishes and cups
kitchen tour 007.JPG

Then grains and my wife's drink stuff. I usually drink water or milk and that is about it. My wife is much more interested in various teas, coffees, smoothies, pop, wine etc than I am.
kitchen tour 008.JPG

This lower cabinet contains most of my baking pans and trays
kitchen tour 009.JPG

The kitchen freezer is filled to the brim with ice cream, wine (for cooking) and frozen soups and such that can be reheated for an easy meal
kitchen tour 025.JPG

Refrigerator is very full with leftovers and ingredients

kitchen tour 026.JPG

The door is filled with condiments.
kitchen tour 027.JPG

I have a few other comments on the refrigerator but I have to head off to a meeting now so I will add those in a bit.

#112 Kouign Aman

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 11:28 AM

I couldnt do it, me, but drying and putting dishes away each meal saves a ton of counterspace otherwise used by the drain rack.
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#113 nolnacs

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 11:40 AM

Sorry for the interruption there, but the time slipped by unnoticed until it was time to go.

On the subject of the refrigerator and more specifically condiments, I often find condiments to be rather annoying. They tend to clutter up the refrigerator and leave less space for actual food. Of course, I did just add some jars of giardiniera to accompany my pickled ramps and cherries hiding in the back of the refrigerator so perhaps I am a condiment hypocrite. Nevertheless, I do try to limit the number in the refigerator.

Onward to the kitchen annex
kitchen tour 010.JPG

Hanging above the chest freezer is this poster of an entirely too happy pig
kitchen tour 011.JPG

Meat slicer and immersion circulator: old and new together.
kitchen tour 012.JPG

The top shelf of this cabinet is filled with various vinegars and oils
kitchen tour 013.JPG

The bottom has sweeteners, some baking extracts and various jams and jellies
kitchen tour 014.JPG

Next to the freezer, I have the wine refrigerator that I use as my meat curing chamber, which is why there is a piece of cardboard over the front of the unit. Cured meats like to be in the dark and the front was mostly class. It also gets decorated with a pig (I think it came from Citypaper). On top of the wine fridge is my new chamber sealer. I only picked it up a couple of months ago but I like it quite a bit more than the foodsaver that I use to use.
kitchen tour 016.JPG

Metro shelving with pots, pans, small appliances, flours & sugars
kitchen tour 017.JPG

This shelf has most of my cookbooks. The shelf above has cooking magazines that I like to keep (Cooks Illustrated & the Art of Eating mostly) and a few other cookbooks. There is no room for Modernist Cuisine here so it tends to hang out in the living room
kitchen tour 018.JPG

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#114 nolnacs

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 11:52 AM

Part two of the kitchen annex

My kitchen island acts like an additional counterup against the wall. This is my main prep space.
kitchen tour 019.JPG

The top drawer holds my knives and most of my tools
kitchen tour 022.JPG

The middle of the island has my foodsaver, a spicestack and some bowls and colanders.
kitchen tour 021.JPG

The spicestack in action. I bought it to try to bring some organization to my spices but was only partially successful as you will see.
kitchen tour 020.JPG

And here are the rest of my spices. One of my favorite stores in Chicago was the Spice House and I have continued to buy some of my spices from them even now when I am in Philadelphia which accounts for all these little baggies of spices.
kitchen tour 024.JPG

The other drawer holds plastic containers for leftovers - a little sparse right now.
kitchen tour 023.JPG

One side of the chest freezer. Lots of frozen fruit and cured meats on this side of the freezer. One drawer is mostly filled with various nuts.
kitchen tour 028.JPG

The other side of the freezer has more frozen fruit as well as lard portioned out in 1 C increments so that I don't have to measure it out when I make pie crust

kitchen tour 029.JPG


If there is anything from the kitchen tour you would like to show more of or explain, just let me know.

#115 heidih

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 02:34 PM

Your wife must enjoy your cooking to agree to the real estate your "toys" take up :biggrin:

The kitchen island looks fairly deep and useful. Was it a fortuitous find or a long search?
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#116 Shelby

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 03:23 PM

The london broil for last night is now cooking in the water bath. However, my wife wanted a snack so she had some of the Chimay Grand Cru that I picked up at Downtown Cheese on Saturday with some grapes and semolina bread.

I had a bite of the Chimay and it is very good.

chimay.JPG


This is just so pretty.

#117 percyn

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 04:37 PM

Couldn't read the blog for a few days and look at all that I missed! Great meals.

nolnacs, what temp was the London Broil at in the water bath and for how long?

What is your favorite thing to cook Sous Vide?

#118 nolnacs

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 04:39 PM

Your wife must enjoy your cooking to agree to the real estate your "toys" take up :biggrin:

The kitchen island looks fairly deep and useful. Was it a fortuitous find or a long search?


She does indeed, but also I think the toys were a package deal with me when I moved from Chicago.

It was a fairly lengthy search, almost entirely online. It was made by Catskill Craftsmen and they have a decent selection of large kitchen islands

#119 nolnacs

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 04:54 PM

In response to my wife's request, I made mapo dofu for dinner tonight. Watch out Han Dynasty!
:unsure:
Maybe not...

I only took a few pictures tonight.

Grinding the pork
map1.JPG

All prepped and ready to go
mapo2.JPG

My mouth is still burning a little bit
mapo3.JPG

I was please with how it turned out. I sprinkled ground szechuan peppercorns on top and if I were to do it again, I would make sure to grind them a little finer in the mortar and pestle. My wife also approved of the dish stating that she would be happy to eat the leftovers. High praise in my opinion.

#120 nolnacs

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Posted 14 September 2011 - 05:02 PM

Couldn't read the blog for a few days and look at all that I missed! Great meals.

nolnacs, what temp was the London Broil at in the water bath and for how long?

What is your favorite thing to cook Sous Vide?



Thanks, I cooked the london broil at 54 C for a little over an hour which is well more than it needed for the core to reach 54 C. I think I would drop it a couple of degrees the next time I do it.

I mostly cook tender proteins sous vide - steaks, pork chops, chicken etc. I've tried vegetables a few times but haven't gotten it down pat yet. I've done some tougher meats too, just not as frequently. I suppose that doesn't really answer your question, but I would say that I really do like how steaks (typically strip or rib eye for me) come out so those would have to be my favorite.





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