#31
Posted 03 September 2011 - 10:05 AM
1) Boil Cinnamon Sticks for 5 minutes - 2 sticks for every finished cup of hot beverage - this should reduce in half.
2) Add Dark Chocolate - I use 100 calories of 72% chocolate for every finished cup (which is 8 gms of fat and is the key for translating between different levels of purity)
3) Add your sugar of choice - I use 1 tablespoon for every finished cup
4) Bring it all to boil, whisking rapidly until the chocolate has melted into a silk
5) Add Fresh Ground Masa (by far the superior choice) or 1 Tbspoon Masa Harina per Finished Cup that has been diluted with 1/4 cold water per Finished cup, bring to a boil then let it simmer until it is thick enough to coat a wooden spoon
6) You can have it dark or remove it from the heat to add some Milk of your choice (including Corn Milk)
#32
Posted 03 September 2011 - 11:08 AM
As usual, EatNopales, I learn something new almost every time you post. I'm looking forward to seeing how you integate these traditions with your daily cooking, especially with kids. Thanks for blogging!I cannot overstate the importance of Atole (corn masa based drinkable gruel with infinite variety) in Mexican civilization. It is literally what the fuel behind the country's farming & enterprises for thousands of years. A stick to the bones, body warming, caloric meal that you can have on the move while you get that early jump on farming or modern day labors.
#33
Posted 03 September 2011 - 12:05 PM
As usual, EatNopales, I learn something new almost every time you post. I'm looking forward to seeing how you integate these traditions with your daily cooking, especially with kids. Thanks for blogging!
I cannot overstate the importance of Atole (corn masa based drinkable gruel with infinite variety) in Mexican civilization. It is literally what the fuel behind the country's farming & enterprises for thousands of years. A stick to the bones, body warming, caloric meal that you can have on the move while you get that early jump on farming or modern day labors.
Here is what I made for the girls' lunch today.. Poached Eggs over Trader Joe's cracked wheat sourdough toast all mixed up is one of their favorite meals & a great way to get protein & fiber into a picky kids.

Ingredients for the Adult Lunch:

#34
Posted 03 September 2011 - 12:30 PM
I think it is cool that the kids enjoy soft eggs. Gives you lots of options.
Thank you so much for the straightforward escabeche recipe. I keep small batches of several quick pickles around at all times and this will round out the selection. I have enjoyed it when offered in restaurants and taco stands, but never made it myself.
Looking forward to lunch - I really really want to know what the floater and liquid in that jar are!
#35
Posted 03 September 2011 - 01:12 PM
I will discuss these discrepancies more as the week progresses. U.S. Mexican restaurants tend to follow a pattern adopted in 1950's when El Torito & Taco Bell, two Southern California chains owned by non-Mexicans, popularized Mexican cuisine. Ignoring their ingredient missteps & inability to season & prepare the food authentically... in their effort to present Mexican food in the format of the "traditional proper American meal" (while keeping food costs down) they latched on to the concept of serving a large plate with a main dish occupying half the plate then two to three sides... so a template of Meatloaf flanked by Mashed Potatoes & Steamed Vegetables became Beef Chunks in Chile Colorado flanked by Rice, Beans (and then later the addition of Chips & Salsa, Pico de Gallo, Guacamole, Sour Cream, Lettuce etc.,)... as "Authentic" Mexican restaurants have became popular they have adopted this caloric dense format which crowds out any possibility of a substantial soup.
In contrast one of the more common course progressions in Mexico (particularly among indigenous communities) is to start with a filling masa based Anotojito & follow that with a large, but low calorie, soup. A variation on that is to serve the Soup at the same time as the Antojito. And I should note that most Antojitos served with soup are of the sturdy / crunch griddled or fried variety not soft like Tamales for example... the duality of liquidy & crunchy is much respected if not codified in books.
One of the most popular & prevalent soups in Mexico is the Sopa de Milpa (Cornfield Soup)... although other names like Sopa de Guias, Sopa de Quelite, Sopa de Elote, Sopa de Verduras is used.. but basically you take whatever is growing in the Milpa (Corn, Tomatoes + any combination of Zucchini, Squash / Pumpkins, Blossoms, Green Beans, Wild Greens & Herbs, Chiles & other aromatics)... if you have Chicken stock you can use that.. but it is also very delicious & common to make it vegan.
Sopa de Milpa was basically a pantry item at our house, and my parents would riff by adding Brocoli, Bean Sprouts, Napa Cabbage or whatever else was cheap & tasty at our neighborhoods stores.

My parents choice Antojito is Quesadillas stuffed with Cabbage Escabeche & Roasted Tomatillo-Arbol Chile sauce (I use Sambal Oelek as a substitution when I don't have time to make salsa)

The two sided quesadilla is given the fancy name Sincronizada (Synchronized Ones) and they have a somewhat interesting story. My mom grew up making tortillas by hand everyday... soaking the dried corn over night, waking up to grind it with a hand cranked molino, patting the tortillas by hand & cooking over cast iron comal over mezquite fire. But, the reality is that few people in Mexico hand make tortilas on a regular basis. Now people go to the Tortillerias which generally make something fairly close to hand made (far superior to what we get at the supermarket here)... they are made & sold earlier in the day, with no preservatives so by afternoon they are too stale to fold for quesadillas without rupturing so entrepreneurs making the best of what they have invented the sincronizada.
Directions for Sopa de Milpa
1) Score & briefly boil tomatoes, peel & puree
2) Simmer the Corn with Tomato Puree & Salted Water or Stock (the flavor of Corn Cobs is enough to make a fragrant & tasty stock)
3) After about 20 minutes of simmering start adding your other vegetables respecting their cooking time so you get an Al Dente texture. Add the Pumpkin Blossoms and particularly delicate Greens at the bowl so they barely wilt a bit.
#36
Posted 03 September 2011 - 01:14 PM
I am a fan and convert to Rancho Gordo's piloncillo. Pricier than the cones I used to get at the market, but a much smoother and richer taste without that burnt edge.
I think it is cool that the kids enjoy soft eggs. Gives you lots of options.
Thank you so much for the straightforward escabeche recipe. I keep small batches of several quick pickles around at all times and this will round out the selection. I have enjoyed it when offered in restaurants and taco stands, but never made it myself.
Looking forward to lunch - I really really want to know what the floater and liquid in that jar are!
Frozen, homemade Chicken stock
#37
Posted 03 September 2011 - 01:51 PM
#38
Posted 03 September 2011 - 03:12 PM
#39
Posted 03 September 2011 - 03:48 PM
So the "ball" is the fat? Love the soup and love all soups. I come from a soup culture.
No it was just not fully defrosted when I took the pic. The broth was definitely de-fatted.
#40
Posted 03 September 2011 - 04:54 PM
#41
Posted 03 September 2011 - 06:49 PM
Thanks! And PM some soup if you have any left.
#42
Posted 03 September 2011 - 09:00 PM
EN, what a delightful surprise!! I've been away from eG for a few days and I come back to find you're el blogger de la semana
Love what you've done so far and looking forward to the rest (or at least until Thursday when I leave for Veracruz)
Have a great trip... you gonna rub it in?
#43
Posted 03 September 2011 - 09:10 PM
"A good part of the reason Juan and I got together is that we’re both foodies at heart. Having kiddos has changed our eating and cooking life dramatically, though, so that many days we look shamefully like the typical American eaters. For one, we used to cook together, or each cook about half the meals in a week. Now I cook most dinners, while Juan plays with our girls after work. The other huge change? If I want to make one meal for the whole family, I am drastically restricted by the very picky tastes of a skinny four-year-old and the chewing capacity of a less-picky two-year-old. Spicy food? Out. Mixed together foods? Freak-out-waiting-to-happen. Kid food? The love of their lives! So I make homemade macaroni and cheese with whole wheat pasta, gruyere and local sharp cheddar, turkey burgers sweetened with mango chutney and moistened with sour cream, and tender meatloaf & ketchup sandwiches, our meal tonight. It seems anything in sandwich form paired with ketchup is kid-friendly, just like anything called pickles must be yummy (so when I make Sunomono, I call it Japanese pickles, now a house favorite).
Unlike Juan, I almost always cook from a recipe. I was uninspired by most meatloaf recipes I perused, but this brief clip I found while searching online seemed promising:
Here’s the recipe I’ve made up based on the clip:
1 medium carrot, grated on your cheese grater
2 stalks (organic!*) celery, chopped
1 c chopped yellow onion (about 2 small or 1 med)
1 1/3 c chopped mushrooms
1 tsp fresh thyme, if you have it handy
¾ c ground beef (local, organic if possible)
¾ c ground pork (local, organic if possible)
1 c homemade** bread crumbs (made from 4+ slices of bread, crust removed, cubed & food-processed)
2 eggs, beaten (humanely-raised locally and organically)
3 T Lea & Perrins Worcestershire sauce
2 t kosher salt
½ t freshly ground pepper
Preheat the oven to 350F.
In a food processor, puree the prepared*** carrot, celery, onion, mushrooms & thyme. Dump into a large bowl and add remaining ingredients. Mix thoroughly (hands do it best). Press into a meatloaf pan or shape into a loaf on a parchment covered sheet pan. Bake for 1 hour.
*Conventionally-grown celery has one of the highest pesticide residue levels; see the full ranking at http://www.ewg.org/foodnews/list/
**The ingredient list on store-bought breadcrumbs is truly frightening. Don’t do it, people!
***I do all that grating and chopping of the veggies beforehand because I don’t know how to get my Kitchen Aid Food Processor to successfully puree the raw veggies (particularly the carrot) if I don’t. If you have tips, let me know!"


The meatloaf is resting on a slice of warm sourdough roll side of romaine salad with homegrown tomatoes.
A minor announcement here... tomorrow is our anniversary, rather than going out I will put on the chef's hat and put together a little something.. stay tuned! More pontificating before then, I am sure
#44
Posted 03 September 2011 - 09:29 PM
I sympathize with the child eating issues. At some point I channeled short order cooks and just cooked quick things that worked in terms of nutrition and taste. Coming from an eating disorder background I was bent on not forcing food or making it an issue. It all worked out and in the long term the 20 year old prefers the taco truck to Taco Bell and does cook often. You are just at the beginning of the adventure. Looking forward to more of your meals.
#45
Posted 03 September 2011 - 10:30 PM
Since you're a fan of Mescal you simply must try a Oaxaca Old Fashioned, one of my very favorite cocktails, created by Phil Ward, phlip here on eGullet. It's a classic. It's not so easy to mix with mescal, but this cocktail really does it justice. Apologies for the thread hijack, but I thought you'd appreciate the cocktail recommendation...Carry on!
Booze Muse, Spiritual Advisor
Cheers!
Bartendrix,Intoxicologist, Beverage Consultant, Philadelphia, PA
Captain Liberty of the Good Varietals, Aphrodite of Alcohol
#46
Posted 04 September 2011 - 05:17 AM
Happy Anniversary to you both. Are there deep-rooted cunilary traditions from Mexico we can look forward to?
I just made a cornish game hen with chestnut stuffing. . .
Would you believe a pigeon stuffed with spam? . . .
Would you believe a rat filled with cough drops?
Moe Sizlack
#47
Posted 04 September 2011 - 07:31 AM
I don't think I've ever made a meatloaf probably because of unpleasant childhood memories. You have inspired me to move on.
Happy Anniversary to you both. Are there deep-rooted cunilary traditions from Mexico we can look forward to?
Thanks and yes it will be a Mex centric dinner
#48
Posted 04 September 2011 - 07:33 AM
Happy Anniversary to you both! This blog is a delight. I'm gaining a perspective on Mexican cuisine that is like no other. Thank you for your insights. Looking forward to the rest of the week.
Since you're a fan of Mescal you simply must try a Oaxaca Old Fashioned, one of my very favorite cocktails, created by Phil Ward, phlip here on eGullet. It's a classic. It's not so easy to mix with mescal, but this cocktail really does it justice. Apologies for the thread hijack, but I thought you'd appreciate the cocktail recommendation...Carry on!
This cocktail sounds great... will make it soon.
#49
Posted 04 September 2011 - 08:49 AM
I don't know the equivalent in Spanish of "doo doo doo doo" but along comes your meatloaf recipe. Haven't made a meatloaf in more years than I can recall and have been thinking about it on and off for two months now.
Now we will have meatloaf this week. Thanks.
Am loving the blog, sir and madame.
learn, learn, learn...
Cheers & Chocolates
#50
Posted 04 September 2011 - 09:10 AM
I'm really looking forward to seeing what you treat Sra EN to today. I'm sure it will both interesting and delicious.
#51
Posted 04 September 2011 - 10:21 AM
It also happens to be Sunday which is Pancake day at our house. When we think of food traditions in other countries we often have the tendency to reduce them to endemic dishes as much as possible.. but modern national cultures are highly porous. We think of French cuisine as being something deep rooted & unique but many of its dishes were heavily borrowed from Florentine & Ottoman cooking and wasn't that long ago.
Pancakes.. almost universally called Hot Cakes (pronounces Haute Kays... Mexicans have a hard time with hard consonants at end of words) have been in Mexico for a long time now (there were on the menu at Sanborn's during the roaring 20's), they are a common breakfast item, and I can guarantee most young Mexicans would not know their origin is anything other than Mexican. Further, there are now Mexicanized pancakes such as the classic Hotcakes with Cajeta, with Honey & Bananas, with Condensed Milk, with Spiced Piloncillo Syrup, with Guava Rolls & Jocoque, with Natas (Clotted Cream) etc.,
Today in Mexico you can get Hotcakes from Street Vendors... of course not all as accomplished as this pancake stylist at the Coyoacan Saturday morning market:
My parents made hotcakes at least once a week and now I am continuing this trans-border tradition. Although not a stylist like the guy in the video, I did invent (as far as I know) a style of pancake specifically for my wife who wanted something between a fluffy pancake & a crepe.. something eggy but not as eggy as crepes that could hold chocolate chips in the center.. but at the same time thin enough that she could roll after a sprinkle of sugar, or jam etc.,
So for breakfast I made sauteed Gravensteins with Cajeta.. and our house Pancrepes... unfortunately I am rushing around so I didn't get a pic of the fully plated breakfast, just the left overs.


I will post a recipe later (this is one of the few things I am a recipe slave on... baked stuff as well).
#52
Posted 04 September 2011 - 10:42 AM
learn, learn, learn...
Cheers & Chocolates
#53
Posted 04 September 2011 - 11:07 AM
I don't think I've ever made a meatloaf probably because of unpleasant childhood memories. You have inspired me to move on.
Happy Anniversary to you both. Are there deep-rooted cunilary traditions from Mexico we can look forward to?
Thanks and yes it will be a Mex centric dinner
Is this where the frog legs come in?
I just made a cornish game hen with chestnut stuffing. . .
Would you believe a pigeon stuffed with spam? . . .
Would you believe a rat filled with cough drops?
Moe Sizlack
#54
Posted 04 September 2011 - 11:22 AM
#55
Posted 04 September 2011 - 12:10 PM
I don't think I've ever made a meatloaf probably because of unpleasant childhood memories. You have inspired me to move on.
Happy Anniversary to you both. Are there deep-rooted cunilary traditions from Mexico we can look forward to?
Thanks and yes it will be a Mex centric dinner
Is this where the frog legs come in?
Funny that you would ask that... Frog Legs are either the most or 2nd most traditional & iconic protein used in tonight's main dish.
Kalypso... since you know you can figure it out please don't give up the dish
#56
Posted 04 September 2011 - 12:28 PM
Our Summer Sunday tradition is to walk over to Oliver's pick up some smoked baby back ribs (which the kids adore as much as we do), some Corn on the Cob, a little local French bread, seasonal fruit... lunch!


Today's fruit was Canary melons... oh yeah I am saving the seeds for a future preparation

However with leftover Sopa de Milpa in the fridge, i couldn't let the opportunity pass to make Salpicon. One of the most frequently consumed dishes in Mexico that is almostly completely unknown north of the border... is really a technique for leftovers with a huge variety of different versions.
Basically, you take any leftover that would not be that good reheated, chop it up to bite size pieces (the name Salpicon means a whole lot of chopped stuff), then macerate with lime juice (or other citrus or vinaigrette), onions & herbs (cilantro, marjoram, mint, tarragon, parsley, epazote, papaloquelite are the most common).. once the flavors have penetrated your leftovers you can toss them with a wide range of fresh vegetables... lettuces, radishes, tomatos, avocado slice etc.,
Here is my Salpicon from the leftover Sopa de Milpa & Meatloaf:

And speaking of Sopa de Milpa leftovers... the Corn on the Cob? Those of you who have purchased an Elote Preparado from a street vendor know the magic of slathering Mayo, Butter, Cotija / Parmesan, Chile Powder & Key Lime Juice on Corn. For those who've never had it... try it... the flavor combination is really great on a wide range of blanched or roasted vegetables... I use it on Fennel when corn is not in season.
Edited by EatNopales, 04 September 2011 - 12:30 PM.
#57
Posted 04 September 2011 - 12:32 PM
#58
Posted 04 September 2011 - 12:39 PM
I noticed a pureed style sauce much earlier on the pork chop plate, and now on the rib plate. Do you make/keep a variety of hot sauces?
#59
Posted 04 September 2011 - 01:16 PM
I don't think I've ever made a meatloaf probably because of unpleasant childhood memories. You have inspired me to move on.
Happy Anniversary to you both. Are there deep-rooted cunilary traditions from Mexico we can look forward to?
Thanks and yes it will be a Mex centric dinner
Is this where the frog legs come in?
Funny that you would ask that... Frog Legs are either the most or 2nd most traditional & iconic protein used in tonight's main dish.
Kalypso... since you know you can figure it out please don't give up the dish
My lips are totally sealed. This is your blog not mine and I am not going to hijack it. (Although I will tell you that the Oaxaca Old Fashioned mentioned up thread is very good and worth trying. But that's it, this is your week to do your thing)
But, you are hitting all high notes here. Loved the Coyoacan street vendor, well actually I love most street vendors, but this guy was really fun to watch. And Salpicon, so glad you mentioned that, such a practical way to use up leftovers. And the corn...love it...corn, chile, lime, cotija, what's not to love
Edited by kalypso, 04 September 2011 - 01:18 PM.
#60
Posted 04 September 2011 - 03:59 PM
Good looking ribs and nicely charred corn. Looking forward to the next life of the melon seeds.
I noticed a pureed style sauce much earlier on the pork chop plate, and now on the rib plate. Do you make/keep a variety of hot sauces?
Yes, that is a reduced Chipotle version of A la Diabla (which you probably see a lot of in restaurants in L.A. i.e., Camarones a la Diabla etc.,). A la Diabla is typically whole garlic cloves & crustacean shells slow cooked in butter... they are removed, pureed Arbol or Chiletepin chiles are added and cooked down into a smooth sauce that thickens with the "gel" given off by garlic & shellfish shells. There may be a dash of Worcestire (commonly used in Mexico)... but not much more.. it is a divine sauce. The version above will keep for months in the fridge.




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