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Cooking with "Modernist Cuisine"

Modernist Cookbook

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1821 replies to this topic

#1351 Robert Jueneman

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 04:06 PM

I believe what they really mean is their "Mushroom Broth" rather than Mushroom Stock. See p. 6•19.


Well, thanks, Chris. That makes a reasonable amount of sense. But it's strange that they don't list mushroom broth in their section on broths, either.

Now I'll have to drag out the pressure cooker which someone gave me. I haven't used one for more than 55 years!

#1352 Chris Hennes

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 04:08 PM

Make extra: it tastes fantastic on its own.

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#1353 Tri2Cook

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 05:28 PM

I don't have the books yet but the mac & cheese inspired me to play. Since my mind usually tends to drift towards the sweet side, I've been fiddling with using fruit lambics and other fruit beers or ciders with fruit purees and juices to make fruit-veeta. I'm at a very early stage playing around with it and have more experimenting and lots of refining to do but it's been fun so far. I guess I'd better start building a MC book fund.
It's kinda like wrestling a gorilla... you don't stop when you're tired, you stop when the gorilla is tired.

#1354 avaserfi

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 05:50 PM

I don't have the books yet but the mac & cheese inspired me to play. Since my mind usually tends to drift towards the sweet side, I've been fiddling with using fruit lambics and other fruit beers or ciders with fruit purees and juices to make fruit-veeta. I'm at a very early stage playing around with it and have more experimenting and lots of refining to do but it's been fun so far. I guess I'd better start building a MC book fund.


Using fig juice and a good blue as the base for the cheese would be pretty tasty.

Edited by avaserfi, 07 September 2011 - 05:50 PM.

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#1355 Robert Jueneman

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 07:56 AM

I believe what they really mean is their "Mushroom Broth" rather than Mushroom Stock. See p. 6•19.


Lachyg wins the sleuthing prize! He found the recipe for mushroom stock, on page 5-129, buried in the middle of a recipe for ragout of grains. It calls for 2 kg of mushrooms, 100 g of grapeseed oil, and 800 g of water.

At first I thought, "Wow, that seems like a lot of grapeseed oil!" But on looking up the recipe, I see that they are coating the mushrooms in oil, roasting them at 175C/350F until golden (30 minutes), then simmering in water for an hour, and straining.

From a culinary linguistics standpoint, this makes more sense, because a broth is a finished, highly flavored essence in it's own right, whereas a stock is used in combination with other ingredients to make the finished dish.

However, the differences are interesting. If you scale up the mushroom broth ingredients to the same scale as the mushroom stock, you would have 2kg of peeled(!) mushrooms (Crimini, in this case), 3575 g of water(!!), 121 g of olive oil, and 529 g of shallots. Obviously the shallots would add a lot of flavor, but I'm not sure that it would be a mushroom flavor. The recipes also differ in that the broth is sauteed, vs. roasted, but I doubt that makes much difference in the taste. Likewise, I don't know that pressure cooking for 15 minutes vs. simmering for 30 minutes would make all that much difference.

I thought I would double-check this recipe with Escoffier's Le Guide Culinaire, but surprisingly, I couldn't find any kind of a mushroom stock listed, even under morels or champignons. Cream sauces, and other preparations, such as a mushroom sauce made from Demi-glace, yes, but not a separate stock.

Now I guess I'll have to try both methods.

Bob

#1356 pep.

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 11:09 AM

No, it had coriander seeds (at least, the version I made).


Any good substitutions for the coriander seeds? I have some, but not 40 g (which I'd need for the 2 kg of confit I plan to make). I even went to the nearest supermarket just before closing time, but their spice selection leaves a lot to be desired. No coriander there. With my planned timetable, I could just barely fit in the 10 hours brining and 8 hours cooking on Friday and Saturday. However, I'd like less stress and that means a sensible substitution that fits in with the rest of the recipe (orange peel etc.).

A short list of what I've got in sufficient quantity (not exhaustive, so feel free to mention other stuff):
  • pimenta (allspice)
  • fennel seeds
  • long pepper
  • sichuan pepper
  • piment d'Espellete
  • various chiles
  • cumin
  • caraway


#1357 Chris Hennes

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 11:11 AM

In my opinion many of those things would probably taste good, but will pretty fundamentally change the flavor of the cure: I'd be more inclined to simply omit.

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#1358 pep.

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 11:21 AM

In my opinion many of those things would probably taste good, but will pretty fundamentally change the flavor of the cure: I'd be more inclined to simply omit.


I've thought about that, too, but I fear that if I leave out 4/5th of the coriander seeds, the flavor profile will become unbalanced. Either way, the flavor of the cure will not be the same. On the other hand, most traditional confit recipes do not specify more than bay leaves, black pepper and maybe thyme. Some are even given with just salt! Compared to that, even without most of the seeds, the MC cure will still be more flavorful than the traditional recipes.

#1359 Chris Hennes

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 11:54 AM

Getting a well-balanced flavor profile with ad hoc substitutions is going to take some trial and error: the coriander does a nice job of highlighting the citrus flavors in this cure, and its absence will certainly be noticeable. But I think even without it, while you'll be missing that additional layer, my guess is that the confit will still turn out well.

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#1360 pep.

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 12:08 PM

Getting a well-balanced flavor profile with ad hoc substitutions is going to take some trial and error: the coriander does a nice job of highlighting the citrus flavors in this cure, and its absence will certainly be noticeable. But I think even without it, while you'll be missing that additional layer, my guess is that the confit will still turn out well.


How about increasing the amount of orange zest instead?

#1361 Msk

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 01:54 PM

How about cracking/crushing/grinding the coriander you do have to get greater extraction. My guess is whatever risk of bitter components you might have gotten from overextracting a larger amount would be lessened.

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#1362 pep.

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 03:36 PM

How about cracking/crushing/grinding the coriander you do have to get greater extraction. My guess is whatever risk of bitter components you might have gotten from overextracting a larger amount would be lessened.


Since I didn't even think about not crushing the coriander, I just made a powder from everything. I mixed each ingredient with a part of the salt and powdered it in the spice mill accessory of my Bamix. The resulting powders were mixed in a separate bowl to ensure an even distribution of all ingredients. Otherwise, with 0.32 g of pepper being just 5 pepper corns in 400 g of salt, some of the duck legs might not have gotten any pepper at all.

Everything's packed now and resting in the refrigerator.

On a side note: Has anybody got a good non-chinese duck soup recipe? I'd like to do something with the carcass besides basic stock and the search hasn't turned up anything so far.

Edited by pep., 08 September 2011 - 03:37 PM.


#1363 Keith_W

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Posted 10 September 2011 - 02:38 PM

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Modernist ribeye steak. Sous-vide then browned with a MAPP blowtorch. I bought the blowtorch specifically for this purpose. Perfectly medium rare throughout with a tiny sliver of well done.
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#1364 thayes1c

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Posted 11 September 2011 - 02:08 PM

My Sous Vide Magic and Fresh Meals Magic got shipped yesterday, and while I have visions of 48 hr flank steak and perfect eggs dancing through my head, I'm really curious about the pulled mushroom on page 3-396. Has anyone tried this yet?

I've been flipping through the kitchen manual and I'm amazed at how many recipes are opened up to me now that I've joined the sous vide crowd! Any suggestions on things to try first?

#1365 avaserfi

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Posted 11 September 2011 - 02:15 PM

My Sous Vide Magic and Fresh Meals Magic got shipped yesterday, and while I have visions of 48 hr flank steak and perfect eggs dancing through my head, I'm really curious about the pulled mushroom on page 3-396. Has anyone tried this yet?

I've been flipping through the kitchen manual and I'm amazed at how many recipes are opened up to me now that I've joined the sous vide crowd! Any suggestions on things to try first?


I've made the recipe with king trumpets, enoki and oyster mushrooms. Each mushroom takes a different amount of time to cook and has a different final flavor, but are all good. The enoki were the simplest to shape, trumpets second and the oysters were a pain, but looked great.

The end result is a tasty vegetarian/vegan alternative to BBQ, but I don't think it is as good as the real thing. Accepting that the dish isn't trying to compete with traditional BBQ and is something else, I think it stands on its own very well especially considering how easy it is.

If you do make it, using a great BBQ sauce really helps.
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#1366 thayes1c

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Posted 17 September 2011 - 11:02 AM

I've got some Activa coming in the mail today and was thinking of making chicken fried steak with it, mostly because that sounds awesome. Trying to figure out the best way to cook it. Should I bond the skin, then cook SV to proper doneness and finish by frying. Should I batter it as well? Any thoughts, tips or tricks?

#1367 slkinsey

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Posted 17 September 2011 - 12:01 PM

How do you mean "chicken fried steak"? Are you proposing to bind chicken skin to pieces of beef? And do you want the end product to be anything like traditional CFS?
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#1368 thayes1c

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Posted 17 September 2011 - 01:17 PM

Yes, that's right. Steak covered in chicken skin. Along the same lines as a traditional chicken fried steak, but more delicious. I've seen recipes that call for bonding the skin to the steak and then frying, but my shiny new Sous Vide Magic is calling to me. I was thinking along the lines of the MC fried chicken, cooked SV and then finished in the fryer.

#1369 Robert Jueneman

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Posted 19 September 2011 - 08:01 AM

For my up-coming class in Modernist Cuisine, I want to make some mushroom gnocchi using reverse spherification, served in a clear oxtail consommι as per MC 2-376.

However, the recipe calls for Super methylcellulose SGA150, and I only have the F50 from WillPowder, and I'm wondering whether I can substitute one for the other.

I've posted a note to a rather stale thread on methylcellulose at http://forums.egulle...34#entry1838734, but if anyone has tried that recipe or has any advice, I'd like to know.

Bob

#1370 slkinsey

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Posted 19 September 2011 - 09:01 AM

Yes, that's right. Steak covered in chicken skin. Along the same lines as a traditional chicken fried steak, but more delicious. I've seen recipes that call for bonding the skin to the steak and then frying, but my shiny new Sous Vide Magic is calling to me. I was thinking along the lines of the MC fried chicken, cooked SV and then finished in the fryer.

Well, as you can see here, I did something along the same lines (although not using chicken skin) and did not find it at all worth the effort Once you get the gravy on there -- and this is a crucial component of chicken fried steak -- then all the other stuff you might be able to do is a bit less impactful. If you're going for something that's more whimsical, and minus the gravy, then it might make more of an impact.
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#1371 andrestorrubia

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 01:50 AM

Hello - I made the carrot soup, and it was delicious. I substituted butter for margarine and I wonder if it would be safe to use olive oil. I understand one should not use oil while pressure cooking (and in fact I was a bit worried when using margarine) for safety reasons.

Would it be safe to substitute butter for olive oil in the carrot soup?

#1372 gdenby

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Posted 20 September 2011 - 08:32 AM

I don't think there is much danger in this recipe. As I understand the matter, it is dangerous to use a pressure cooker as a pressure fryer. In the event of going over pressure, the sprayed oil will possibly ignite, and certainly burn anyone nearby. However, I don't think the amount of fat/oil in the carrot soup recipe is enough to cause a problem. Its not like trying to deep fry a piece of chicken.

My most successful attempt used twice the amount of butter. I brought the cooker to pressure using a low fire, listening to make sure I heard no sound of boiling inside the cooker.

As far as using olive oil goes, I think the main consideration is one of flavor. On the one hand, the carrot flavor might be overwhelmed by the olive flavor. On the other, perhaps the olive flavor will diminish with the higher heat, and not offer any better flavor than something more neutral. If you do it, let us know how the flavor changes, if at all.

#1373 EnriqueB

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Posted 21 September 2011 - 12:38 AM

Andrιs, butter and margarine, unlike oil, have between 15 and 40% of water. Maybe I'm mistaken, but I would say this is relevant for the recipe, specially at the beginning as you need to produce some water vapor for the pressure cooker to come up to pressure. Later on the carrots should also release their water, but at the beginning I cannot see where would the water vapor come from if you use olive oil...

#1374 FoodMan

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Posted 21 September 2011 - 08:23 AM

Since we are on the carrot soup topic again, I have a quick update. I've made it a couple of times since my last post about it and never had an issue (using the 20 minutes cook time per the Errata page NOT 50 minutes). It is, for now, one of my wife's favorite soups. This week I needed to make a double batch but wanted to see if I can reduce the butter a bit without messing up the recipe. Bottom line is that for a double batch I used about 112 grams of butter (one stick) to saute the non-cored carrots. Another thing I was not sure of is the cooking time. Doubling it to 40 minutes did not seem right, so I stuck with about 25 minutes. I, as usual, also omited the extra butter that is supposed to get blended in after the carrots are cooked. The end result was fantastic. The soup was as creamy as ever with a beautiful color and vibrant taste. Since it was made with much less fat than the original recipe, one could easily have a decent sized bowl as opposed to a tasting portion. Hope that helps anyone trying to double or triple (might get tricky dependign on the size of your pressure cooker) the soup recipe.

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#1375 EnriqueB

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Posted 21 September 2011 - 08:30 AM

I've used 50 minutes several times (didn't see the 20 minutes correction) without any problem, and the result is also fantastic.

#1376 Todd in Chicago

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Posted 21 September 2011 - 05:23 PM

I have made the carrot soup a few times according to the original recipe and it has come out FANTASTIC every time. No one believes me that there isn't some sort of cream "snuck" in there. Honestly, I thought for the volume there was really not that much butter.

Todd in Chicago

#1377 Todd in Chicago

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Posted 21 September 2011 - 05:27 PM

I'm tryin' the Beef Brisket recipe and tonight is the "Pull Out" night. ;-) the difference for me was being able to smoke the brisket as long and at the temp in the original recipe; so I'm curious how it will come out. I smoked the brisket "roughly" 3 hours in my Big Green Egg and this evening will be 72 hours in the SVS. I don't believe the Egg can get down to that temp, but we'll see what happens. Can't wait to try it! I think I'll whip up a batch of the AWESOME Mac 'n Cheese as a side. Brisket sandwich with modernist mac 'n cheese on the side. Life is good...... ;-)

Todd in Chicago

Edited by Todd in Chicago, 21 September 2011 - 05:28 PM.


#1378 Keith_W

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Posted 22 September 2011 - 04:53 AM

Good luck with it, Todd. I tried the smoked + SV beef brisket from MC some time ago and was not too pleased with the results.
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#1379 gdenby

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Posted 22 September 2011 - 06:16 AM

Do let us know how the brisket comes out. Brisket is the 1 thing I've never been able to Egg w. really good results. What temp did you have in the Egg?

#1380 andrestorrubia

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Posted 22 September 2011 - 10:01 AM

I pulled the trigger and made the soup with just enough olive oil to coat the bottom of the cooker; added a tiny bit of water and left it for 45 mins... great results. I wonder if this also doable with tomato; although tomato being much more acidic than carrots (?) would mean adding a bit more soda powder and possibly a reducing sugar (maybe just a pureed sweet apple). Will try.





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