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Salt Cod Diary


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#91 heidih

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Posted 16 December 2011 - 08:29 PM

Are these shallow fried or deep fried? They are lovely.
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#92 LindaK

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Posted 16 December 2011 - 08:38 PM

I used about 2 inches of oil, that was deep enough. I did need to flip them to cook both sides. Perhaps in a perfect world I should have used more oil, but I (correctly) assumed that the curry powder would permeate the oil and make it impossible to reuse. So I skimped a bit.


 


#93 GlorifiedRice

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 06:07 AM

Hi,
I made Saltfish and Ackee once, LOVED IT!
But something seemed "off" a bit in the taste.
I did notice when I cut open the bag of the salted cod there was a slight ammonia smell.
Is that normal? Did I get a bad bag?
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#94 LindaK

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 08:11 AM

Hi,
I made Saltfish and Ackee once, LOVED IT!
But something seemed "off" a bit in the taste.
I did notice when I cut open the bag of the salted cod there was a slight ammonia smell.
Is that normal? Did I get a bad bag?

No, it's not normal. Or rather I should say, it's not good. I've only experienced the ammonia smell with fresh fish, which is a sure sign that it's not fresh at all and should be discarded. I've never noticed it with salt cod but if I did, I wouldn't eat it.

Still, I'm curious about how you prepared it with ackee. I've never tasted it, much less cooked with it.


 


#95 GlorifiedRice

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Posted 17 December 2011 - 04:19 PM

Linda I cannot remember where I found the Saltfish and Ackee recipe I used but It was something like this

http://www.easycarib...sh-jamaica.html

eta: The Ackee was like very ripe Avocado, but had no real flavor, but it was good, very mild
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#96 LindaK

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Posted 03 January 2012 - 06:18 AM

In case you missed them, there are some beautiful salt cod fritters and salads happening over in the Dinner! topic, here and here.

Santa gave me a variety of nut oils as a gift, and I remembered the brandade with walnut oil that Dave Hatfield suggested uptopic here. So along with a salad, that was last night’s dinner.


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Unlike most brandade, there’s no cream in this one. Instead, it’s enriched with eggs and walnut oil. The nutty flavor is very subtle but quite distinctive. Delicious.


 


#97 Dianabanana

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Posted 04 January 2012 - 08:22 PM

Regarding the recipe for Arròs amb Capetes de Totero that LindaK posted upthread: OMFG. So good. And so good with a sauvignon blanc. And did not require any forethought! I love salt cod so much but fail at planning ahead. I'm so happy to have discovered this dish. Thank you, Linda!

#98 LindaK

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Posted 06 January 2012 - 05:35 PM

Diana, I’m so glad you liked it. Next time I make it I will remember your sauvignon blanc suggestion, that sounds like a fantastic pairing.

I’m curious, what kind of rice did you use? I’ve made this a few times now, and have been happiest with a medium grain Spanish rice. The one time I substituted Arborio rice, it seemed awfully starchy to me.

This has become one of my favorite cold weather comfort food recipes, not only because it’s delicious but, like you, I’m really bad at planning ahead. Though if I have learned anything over the course of this past year, it’s that soaked salt cod freezes well. If you soak some, soak extra. Pat it dry and freeze. Move it from freezer to refrigerator in the morning, it will be ready to cook by dinnertime.

Note: the post for this recipe with a picture is here. Belatedly, I found a recipe for Arròs amb Capetes de Totero on RecipeGullet here-—which somehow forgets to include salt cod in the list of ingredients! The Coleman Andrews recipe that I used calls for 6 oz unsoaked salt cod (I probably use a little more, because I’m greedy). Otherwise, the recipe is similar.


 


#99 Dianabanana

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 07:51 PM

I'm sorry I missed your post until now, Linda. I made this again last night and used Arborio, which, I agree, too starchy. In fact I'm sitting here eating leftovers and it's even starchier and creamier than last night. The first time I made it--and I hope you're sitting down, because it's shocking heresy, although we've already established that I can't plan ahead so you shouldn't be too shocked--I used regular old Tamanishiki koshihikari, because I always have a huge sack of that. I liked it a lot better than Arborio, but if I have a sudden change of personality perhaps I'll buy some proper Spanish rice in time to make this the next time, and see how it's supposed to be done.

My husband loves this dish as much as I do, specifically requested it last night, then volunteered to make a run for tomatoes in the howling blizzard when I discovered we were out. :)

#100 chefguz

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 07:58 PM

We were poaching it in a really hearty broth at the restaurant about a month ago, it held up really nicely and was still flaky and tender.

#101 LindaK

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Posted 17 January 2012 - 08:07 PM

Shocked at Japanese rice in a Spanish dish?? Nah. Last week I used basmati in my Polish stuffed cabbage...I am impressed with the grocery run in a blizzard, though.

I made a salt cod run last week so I am well stocked up (though nothing is soaked yet) but have yet to decide what to cook next. This is a good default. And I agree, the leftovers are great!


 


#102 Xilimmns

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 02:28 PM

Cod Fritters or Bolinho de Bacalhau like we say at home. Pretty straight forward recipe, using one mashed potato and one lb of shredded cod to ensure it can be formed in to any shape you want. Added some nutmeg, two egg yolks, two whipped egg whites, parsley and fresh ground pepper.

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#103 janeer

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Posted 25 March 2012 - 08:07 PM

look delish

#104 LindaK

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Posted 26 March 2012 - 04:47 AM

Xilimmns, those are lovely. I've never tried to form my fritters into a consistent shape. Especially when using whipped egg whites (as opposed to beating the whole egg), my mixture is very soft and doesn't hold a shape well. Maybe that means I need to increase the potato?

Thanks for bumping up the topic, I hope you’ll post more of your salt cod recipes from home. New ideas and inspiration would be welcome.

I’ve been sticking with the same lazy recipes the past months—salt cod w/rice and the occasional fritter. I’ve been intending to make the chiles rellenos de bacalao again and use the extra filling for empanadas. So much for good intentions…

If Panaderia Canadiense happens to read this, I’m hoping to see the Easter Fanesca you mentioned earlier here. It looks so interesting—and intimidating.


 


#105 bethesdabakers

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Posted 26 March 2012 - 08:04 AM

I’ve tried to post this recipe at least three times before with photos as beautiful as Xilimmns but they always get eaten before the camera comes out. Happened again last Friday evening when we had friends to dinner.

Accra, based on a recipe from Creole Caribbean Cookery by Kenneth Gardinier.

About 340g salt cod soaked for 24 hours +. Drop into boiling water and turn off the heat. When cool flake and discard the skin. Finely chop about 4 spring onions, 2 cloves garlic, a scotch bonnet and mix with the fish.

Sift about 140g flour and mix in a teaspoon of baking powder, a teaspoon of curry powder, salt and pepper to taste.

When you are ready to cook mix the flour mixture into the fish mixture, stir in enough water to make a paste.

Shallow fry spoonfuls of the mixture until well browned on all sides – mine are ragged compared with Xilimmns perfect shapes.

Serve with Floats, the Trinidadian fried bread. I don’t use commercial yeast so I did a sourdough version which you can find here if you are interested.

If not take a basic white bread recipe but rub butter (or lard) into the flour, about 30% of the flour weight. After your usual fermentation period, scale the dough at 60g, pat out into rounds about 4 inches in diameter. Fry for three minutes on both sides.

They come out like very light puff pastry.

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#106 Xilimmns

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Posted 30 March 2012 - 01:03 PM

Thanks LindaK. I used the two spoons method to form them on this shape. I thought it was more interesting than a ball shaped fritter. Very simple and I hope you can try it next time you make cod fritters.

#107 LindaK

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Posted 29 April 2012 - 04:35 PM

Thanks to Xilimmns and bethesdabakers, I've now got a serious fritter craving.

Until then, here's a long overdue update.

On a recent trip to Paris, I picked up a cookbook by chef Yves Camdeborde, Simplement Bistrot. Though it’s a well-worn subject, I’m a complete sucker for bistro cookbooks if they contain anything I haven’t seen before. In this case, more than a few things, including some salt cod ideas.

This cookbook is notable for the utter simplicity of the recipes, sometimes too much so. The two salt cod recipes I’ve tried thus far are good examples.

The soupe de morue, poireaux, and pommes de terre (salt cod, leek, and potato soup) was as basic as one could get—those three ingredients along with some olive oil. No stock, just water. Except for soaking the cod, it comes together in minutes. Next time I’ll cook the leeks a little longer to caramelize them a little, I think the soup would benefit from a bit more complexity. Very satisfying and tasty nonetheless, though maybe not so pretty:

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Next, a composed salad, salade de morue au comté et radis (salt cod salad with comté cheese and radish). Comté is a firm but smooth mountain cheese, both nutty and fruity. As simple as it sounds, tossed with a strong mustard and sherry vinegar vinaigrette, garnished with fresh chives. Cheese and salt cod, unusual but it worked. I liked this a lot. And this one is pretty:

DSCF1106.JPG


 


#108 LindaK

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Posted 22 May 2012 - 05:24 AM

The recipe for last night’s fritters came from Spice: Flavors of the Eastern Mediterranean by local chef Ana Sortun. They differed only a bit from the basic recipe. The recipe for an accompanying red wine sauce looked very good, but too labor intensive for a Monday night, for me at least.

DSCF1141.JPG

Sortun adds sautéed chopped tomatoes, onion, and garlic to her fritters, along with Aleppo chili pepper. The tomato adds color and sweetness, but also moisture. If you’ve never used Aleppo pepper, it’s one of my favorite spices—slightly smoky and sweet, mild heat. Another technique that was new to me: Sortun reserved some of the milk in which the cod had simmered and used it to moisten the final potato-cod mixture. A good way to extend the flavor, a nice trick to remember.

Following the recipe, I found the final batter to be a little too loose—between the tomatoes, milk, and egg, too much moisture—so added more potato to firm it up a bit. Dipped in flour then beaten egg, they fried up beautifully.

DSCF1140.JPG

I loved the flavor of the Aleppo pepper. Yet another addition to the list of great salt cod-chili pairings.


 


#109 jayt90

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Posted 29 May 2012 - 01:36 PM

Buying salt cod is never easy, but frankly more difficult now that the Grand Banks are dead, and there are so many different ethnic groups looking for the product. Some packers will sell salted pollack labelled as such, while others will sell pollack as salt cod. I have always liked Sable Island (Nova Scotia) cod packed in bags and refrigerated. It has a rank but enticing smell, and it reconstitutes with a sticky texture. The Sable Island bags with boneless pieces are not as good.
I'm going to get some fillets today, and maybe do the ackee dish, to use up a can in the cupboard.

One comment I haven't seen here is about over re-freshing: each piece of salt cod is different, some refreshing in a day some in three days. If you go too far, the flesh starts to decay, not noticeably, but definitely starting in that direction. To find the optimal time for ending the soak, I taste a piece from the thickest part, or close to the bone if present. It should be very mildly salty, but not bland and flavorless.

I have always wondered how home salting of cod could possibly resemble the real thing, and I scoffed at Keller's notion about salting Pacific cod in the restarant. But maybe there is something to it, so I may try that with a tray of Costco fresh cod.

#110 LindaK

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Posted 29 May 2012 - 05:33 PM

One comment I haven't seen here is about over re-freshing: each piece of salt cod is different, some refreshing in a day some in three days. If you go too far, the flesh starts to decay, not noticeably, but definitely starting in that direction. To find the optimal time for ending the soak, I taste a piece from the thickest part, or close to the bone if present. It should be very mildly salty, but not bland and flavorless.

You are so right. I've made the mistake of soaking an especially thick piece for 2 days without tasting, only to be disappointed with bland results. Now I taste after 24 hrs, always.

I have always wondered how home salting of cod could possibly resemble the real thing, and I scoffed at Keller's notion about salting Pacific cod in the restarant. But maybe there is something to it, so I may try that with a tray of Costco fresh cod.

Other folks here have wondered the same thing, but so far none of us have given it a shot. If you try, please let us know the results, it would be fascinating. I doubt if it would taste the same, but it might be worthwhile nonetheless.


 


#111 LindaK

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Posted 29 May 2012 - 06:12 PM

Good lord, here's a new one--salt cod in Chinese food? From Weinoo's review of Mission Chinese Food - 154 Orchard St.

...the salt-cod fried rice, salty from the baccalà and sweet from the lap cheong. I’m sorry local take-out joint – your fried rice ain’t gonna cut it any more.

Who cares if it's traditional, it's on the list for my next visit to NYC.


 


#112 jayt90

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 10:27 AM

Salt Cod and Ackee

I used a half pound of refrigerated Nova Scotia salt cod and a large can of ackee. (A smaller 16 oz can would have worked as well.)

IMG_6477.JPG

This is the pan view. The prepared cod was simmered for 5 minutes in a spicy tomato base, with Serrano peppers (no Scotch bonnets available, but these canned Mexican chilies were very hot!). The ackee fruit was added and heated separately as it is fragile and can't take stirring or tossing.

Ackee has a taste like canned peas, but with the richness of avocado. The texture is all scrambled egg, and very soft.
The peavine taste and fatty richness go well with the assertive cod flavor.

I was less happy with the tomato base, and particularly the onions, which had not dissolved after a lengthy simmer.
Next time, I am going to try to combine the elements of salt cod, brandade, and ackee, leaving tomatoes and onion out of the picture.


Here is the plate, with jerked beans and Calrose rice.

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#113 Margaret Pilgrim

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 08:04 PM

Many years ago we used to go to dinner at the home of a friend whose grandmother came from the Dordogne. The house specialty was brandade and I watched and even helped him make it many times. It was simply mashed potatoes into which we whipped shredded poached salt cod, raw eggs, minced garlic and olive oil.

Forgotten for decades, I have tried to resurrect the process, but somehow my proportions or process are not as I remember. Does anyone recognize this version of brandade and have more precise instruction than I seem to have retained?
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#114 LindaK

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Posted 05 June 2012 - 06:48 PM

Margaret, okay, with no other takers, I'll offer some ideas. Most of the time that I see eggs in a list of brandade ingredients, it's when the mixture is cooked again, as with fritters or in a gratin. Usually it's the olive oil and some dairy, such as cream or creme fraiche, adding the fat. With just eggs, I'd err on the side of a high ratio of salt cod so you don't end up with a bland end result. I'd also assume that they're added when the potato mixture is still hot enough to cook them, either tempering the eggs first or mixing madly so you don't end up with scrambled eggs.

jayt90, I must find some ackee. It's a completely new food to me, so I'm very curious about its flavor, esp. in contrast with the salt cod.


 


#115 Baron d'Apcher

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Posted 28 July 2012 - 06:54 PM

Morue à la Catalane.
Posted Image

Gently poached salt cod in a stew of piquillo and carmen peppers, tomatoes, dried chorizo, red onion, sherry vinegar and capers.

#116 LindaK

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Posted 29 July 2012 - 06:36 PM

Baron, that is really beautiful--what gorgeous colors. As with your terrines, you have an artist's eye. And I have no doubt that it's delicious. The chorizo, pepper, cod combo is inspired. This one is on my short list for fall.

So after your post I am somewhat embarrassed to add my imperfect installment. With hot weather here, I've been playing with salads and spent some time researching summer salads using salt cod. I see it frequently in winter salads with citrus (which is delicious) but rarely with summer ingredients. Coincidentally I defrosted some salt cod yesterday and threw a salad together tonight based on what I had on hand. It was tasty but not transcendent.

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Salt cod salad with roasted pepper, celery, parsley, cilantro, capers, and olives. Too much going on visually with the cherry tomatoes, but hey...

Oddly enough, I think the problem is that I poached the salt cod. The citrus salad mentioned above briefly broils, then soaks, the salt cod, before shredding it into a salad. The result is much more delicate, which really matters when using it in a salad. Lesson learned.

i defrosted too much salt cod, so I'll have to use it up in the next day or two. Maybe fritters? I haven't made them in ages.


 


#117 LindaK

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Posted 02 August 2012 - 04:05 AM

So, what to make when you've defrosted too much salt cod?

Esqueixada (shredded salt cod salad)
In Catalan Cuisine, Coleman Andrews aptly describes this as "catalan ceviche." Versions range from the very simple to the elaborate, but they all have a few things in common: soaked (but not cooked) salt cod, pulled into shreds, and tossed with a piquant oil/vinegar dressing. Like ceviche, it's rich but refreshing. Made here with chopped tomato, chopped olives, herbs, on shredded lettuce. It made for a delicious appetizer on a sultry evening.

DSCF1189.JPG


Fritters
No special recipe here. To the cod, potato mixture, I threw in a handful of fresh, chopped herbs and some finely minced jalapeno. I've gotten in the habit of separating the eggs, adding the yolk and whipping the egg white before adding it. It's an extra step but quick to do, and it really does lighten the fritters. Served with lemon wedges.

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#118 antdad

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Posted 03 August 2012 - 02:32 PM

You're all making me salt cod crazy. I quite like this recipe where the fritters are made from a batter.

http://www.fishmarket.ie/recipes2.html

#119 LindaK

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Posted 04 August 2012 - 05:46 AM

Antdad, thanks for sharing the video. I've never done a fritter with a batter like that. The chef says it's a Coleman Andrew's recipe, so I took a look in Catalan Cuisine and sure enough the recipe is there. I'll have to give it a try.

Something that I noticed was that his salt cod had the skin still on. I'm jealous--I have never found salt cod with the skin, and I've been looking for some time. There are a few recipes that specifically need the gelatin from the skin to make an emulsion.

Another thing, I am down to my last pound of salt cod. I've been buying mine from an Italian market near my office, so I stopped by after work the other day. All gone! They sell it seasonally only and won't have more until October. Grrr. I know I can get salt cod elsewhere, but their product is very high quality, good for dishes like esqueixada which really demand the best. I'll have to think carefully how to use what I have left. Regular grocery store salt cod should be fine for fritters, though.


 


#120 antdad

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Posted 04 August 2012 - 07:44 PM

Linda, I'll try and put your mind at rest. I think most salt cod is now sold skinless (as it was in that Spanish market) but it looked like that English TV chef who was cooking back home was either using standard cod fillet or some home produced salt cod hence the skin and the liberal seasoning. I may be mistaken about that but the salt cod I buy here in the UK doesn't look like that, it has a definite yellow hue and tends to be firmer.