eG Foodblog: mkayahara (2010) - Confessions of a culinary tinker
#1
Posted 15 November 2010 - 06:22 AM
Why don't I start by situating you a little bit in my life? As you saw in the Coming Attractions topic, I would say that two of my biggest interests - and two of the topics on which I've gotten the most help from the eGullet forums - are cocktails and "molecular gastronomy" (or avant-garde cuisine, or whatever you want to call it). I'll be trying to incorporate both of those topics into my blog this week.
I think it's safe to say that both of those interests are symptomatic of a more general desire to "tinker" in the kitchen. When I first learned that there were chemicals you could buy to make spheres out of pea puree, I had to order them. Similarly, when I learned that the whisky I'd spent my whole life calling "rye" was different from an American whiskey that is also called rye, I had to buy a bottle to find out what it tasted like. "Trying it for myself" is my guiding principle when it comes to food.
In the past year, I've also developed a fascination with Japanese cooking. You see, although my family name is Japanese, I'm only one-quarter ethnically Japanese. (The other three quarters are an Anglo-Celtic blend.) Growing up, I didn't eat much Japanese food, but as I've gotten older, I've become interested in exploring that facet of my heritage. So I'll be drawing on that cuisine this week, too.
So thanks to eGullet for asking me to host this week. I hope you enjoy reading along!
#2
Posted 15 November 2010 - 06:33 AM
For me, oatmeal always has dried fruit (usually raisins; sometimes apples or apricots), and often some cinnamon or a touch of vanilla extract. I don't generally sweeten it, but I was feeling a little indulgent this morning, so there was a drop of maple syrup on it. (Hey, I am Canadian, y'know!)
Although I have an espresso machine (a Saeco Aroma), I prefer French press in the morning. There's just something so comforting about the large mug of warmth, especially as the days are getting colder here. The beans are from a local roaster, whose roast profiles tend to be a little darker than my preference, but I like supporting the local business. Sometimes, though, I'll pick up beans from 49th Parallel, which I can buy in Toronto.
#3
Posted 15 November 2010 - 06:57 AM
#4
Posted 15 November 2010 - 07:18 AM
cookskorner
Practice. Do it over. Get it right.
Mostly, I want people to be as happy eating my food as I am cooking it.
#5
Posted 15 November 2010 - 07:49 AM
#6
Posted 15 November 2010 - 07:59 AM
#7
Posted 15 November 2010 - 08:54 AM
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I took my potatoes down to be mashed
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#8
Posted 15 November 2010 - 09:03 AM
I think Japanese food is going to be the theme for today, so you won't have to wait long!I had always wondered about your surname and thought it was perhaps just a username you chose for whatever reason. Can't wait to see what you do with Japanese food (and other stuff, of course) this week!
I'll have to take some photos of my kitchen to post. I could use your guys' help redesigning it!Yay, it's Matthew! Can't wait for it all to unfold. I'm looking forward to your cooking and also seeing your kitchen and a little of your area of the world! Carry on
!
Err. I was hoping no one would ask that. I always buy quick oats, because when it comes to weekday breakfast, I'm not patient. (Yes, I know that 10 minutes is not much longer than 3 minutes.) Normally, I buy organic oatmeal from President's Choice, but I didn't make it out to the store that carries it when I needed to replenish, so this is just Quaker.Eager to see more, Matthew. What kind of oatmeal is that?
#9
Posted 15 November 2010 - 09:36 AM
I ask because I'd love to find some way to have steel-cut Irish oatmeal (like McCann's) ready in the morning, but I've never put my mind to figuring out how to do it. Sounds like a good idea for a topic....
So what sort of chemicals do you have in your MG battery, Matt?
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I took my potatoes down to be mashed
Then I made it over to that million dollar bash
#10
Posted 15 November 2010 - 09:46 AM
"It either works fine or not, but what the heck. This is bread, not birth control." Susan of Wild Yeast blog
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#11
Posted 15 November 2010 - 09:54 AM
Are you planning a remodel? And will we get a fridge shot?I'll have to take some photos of my kitchen to post. I could use your guys' help redesigning it!
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#12
Posted 15 November 2010 - 10:20 AM
I've been known to cook the oatmeal from Bob's Red Mill, but I find that I don't like the texture. Maybe I'll have to see if I can find proper steel-cut oats somewhere and give them a try this week... no promises, though.Hoisted by the eG Foodblog petard!
I ask because I'd love to find some way to have steel-cut Irish oatmeal (like McCann's) ready in the morning, but I've never put my mind to figuring out how to do it. Sounds like a good idea for a topic....
You mean apart from sodium chloride and sodium bicarbonate, I assume. :P As I said in my intro, I like to try things out for myself... what I didn't say was that once I've tried them out, the chemicals often go into a cupboard, never to be seen again. (Or, at least, not very often.) So I have amassed a pretty good collection: sodium alginate, calcium chloride, xanthan gum, soy lecithin, tapioca maltodextrin, two kinds of methylcellulose, sodium citrate, isomalt, agar, ultra-tex 3, calcium lactate, sodium hexametaphosphate, low-acyl gellan, locust bean gum... uh... I think that's about it. Some of those arrived just the other day, and I haven't gotten a chance to play with them yet, so I'm looking forward to that.So what sort of chemicals do you have in your MG battery, Matt?
Edit: Extraneous, comma.
Edited by mkayahara, 15 November 2010 - 10:21 AM.
#13
Posted 15 November 2010 - 10:27 AM
We've been planning a remodel ever since we bought the house over 2 years ago; we just haven't gotten around to it yet, in part because the kitchen is so awkwardly laid out. And yes, I'm sure I can do a fridge shot!Are you planning a remodel? And will we get a fridge shot?
#14
Posted 15 November 2010 - 10:34 AM
I realized the other day that, despite all the Japanese cooking I've been doing for the past 11 months, I've never made oyakodon. So, since I had some leftover dashi from the weekend, and a spare chicken breast hanging around, and eggs - I always have eggs; I get twitchy when the carton drops below half a dozen - it would be a good lunch to make today.
I added nori strips after taking the photo. Nori wilts so quickly in steam that I don't like the way it photographs. I'm convinced you can make any dish taste Japanese by garnishing with nori, pickled ginger and bonito flakes, though.
The recipe was from Andoh's Washoku. The dashi didn't reduce as quickly as I would have liked, so I ended up draining some of it off before topping the rice. Delicious, and easy!
#15
Posted 15 November 2010 - 11:14 AM
eG Foodblog: Cooking with Panda
#16
Posted 15 November 2010 - 12:38 PM
#17
Posted 15 November 2010 - 03:01 PM
Oddly, I don't feel sufficiently conversant with Japanese flavours and points of reference to play around with them in the way that avant-garde technique allows (demands?). It's something I think about every now and then, but since I've only been seriously exploring Japanese food for a few months, I'm just not convinced I'm there yet.Are you going to combine some MG with Japanese cuisine this week?
Yup, that's all it is! It's called beni-shoga, and is like the pickled ginger you get with sushi, but far less sweet.Is the red garnish a type of pickled ginger? I've had that a couple times served on top of okonomiyaki and loved it, but wasn't sure if it was actually ginger or if it was some other root that was flavored with ginger. Is it just sold in jars?
Off to prep dinner shortly...
#18
Posted 15 November 2010 - 04:03 PM
The recipe was from Andoh's Washoku. The dashi didn't reduce as quickly as I would have liked, so I ended up draining some of it off before topping the rice. Delicious, and easy!
That book was my friend in Japan! Have you tried any other recipes out of it that you enjoyed? I am a big fan of her pickled lotus root.
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#19
Posted 15 November 2010 - 04:09 PM
Still, that oyakodon looked delicious, and I wish I could have had some! I've not had oyakodon in several years, I think. Not even in Japan!
#20
Posted 15 November 2010 - 05:07 PM
I haven't cooked out of it as much as I would like, but I've enjoyed everything I have made, with the notable exception of the soy-simmered kabocha with adzuki beans. The beans just never got tender! (Not the cookbook's fault, obviously.) Favourites include the sesame-miso sauce and the kitsune udon. I'll have to try the pickled lotus root.The recipe was from Andoh's Washoku. The dashi didn't reduce as quickly as I would have liked, so I ended up draining some of it off before topping the rice. Delicious, and easy!
That book was my friend in Japan! Have you tried any other recipes out of it that you enjoyed? I am a big fan of her pickled lotus root.
Ha! It's true, I did use breast, mostly because it's what I had on hand. In general, I do prefer thigh.I can tell you're only 1/4 Japanese because you used chicken breast and not thigh.
#21
Posted 15 November 2010 - 05:10 PM
Edited by eje, 15 November 2010 - 05:11 PM.
#22
Posted 15 November 2010 - 05:22 PM
I just made a cornish game hen with chestnut stuffing. . .
Would you believe a pigeon stuffed with spam? . . .
Would you believe a rat filled with cough drops?
Moe Sizlack
#23
Posted 15 November 2010 - 05:24 PM
In keeping with the theme that has emerged for today, I made okonomiyaki. I first had this dish at Okonomi House restaurant in Toronto; in general, I get tired of people thinking that Japanese food starts and ends with sushi, so I made a point fairly early on of seeking out other Japanese dishes. We also ate lots of okonomiyaki while we were in Japan in May, both Osaka and Hiroshima style. Despite having family roots in Hiroshima, I preferred Osaka style, so that's what I made tonight.
We start with the mise en place: batter (flour, eggs, baking powder, salt and dashi, though usually I use water), sliced cabbage, shiitake and green onions, and pork belly. (Prasantrin, does that make up for the chicken breast I ate at lunch?
Mixing the vegetables and batter:
The belly goes into the pan first...
...then it gets flipped, and some of the batter mixture patted down on top of it. (There was enough mise en place for three okonomiyaki in total.)
The whole deal gets flipped to cook the other side.
Then, it slides onto a plate, and gets garnished with okonomiyaki sauce, Kewpie mayonnaise, ao-noriko seaweed flakes, bonito flakes and more red pickled ginger. (Funny, davidkeay, that you mentioned okonomiyaki when asking about it earlier!)
#24
Posted 15 November 2010 - 05:30 PM
Yeah, the University of Guelph is one of the most important agri-food research centres in Canada. In fact, if you'll all turn to the Book of McGee (2004 edition) and check the credit for the whipped cream photo on page 31 (the credit is on p. 884), you'll see our name there in black and white.I know Guelph as a fun summer place and also as a major research site with Agricultural and Veterinary Colleges, plus lots of Biotech. Does this have any impact on your cooking?
Unfortunately, although my husband does work for the university, it's in the history department, so I haven't made any real connections in the food sciences area yet. So it doesn't really have any impact on my cooking.
#25
Posted 15 November 2010 - 07:30 PM
Have you been able to find nagaimo in your area? I've heard it's becoming easier to find in Canada, and I would definitely recommend using it rather than baking powder. The woman who taught me to make okonomiyaki said if I couldn't get nagaimo, then just leave it out. You don't want the batter to rise, the nagaimo just makes a more tender product. Your recipe is about the same as mine, except I always add instant dashi granules, and I never add additional water. It makes the batter to watery (but the nagaimo adds moisture, so if I don't have nagaimo, I guess water would be necessary). MSG is delicious!
#26
Posted 15 November 2010 - 08:12 PM
Actually, I sliced that pork by hand myself! (Stay tuned to see what I do with the rest of the belly. I'm open to guesses.) I've thought about asking my butcher to do it for me on the slicer - since I can't talk my husband into letting me get a slicer of my own - but he never seems to be around when I pick up my pork bellies.That pork does look good! Buta-chiizu okonomiyaki is my favourite! Where do you get your pork sliced so thinly? I've only seen that kind of thinness at Japanese markets in the TO area, but I haven't seen it in Winnipeg yet.
I bought nagaimo once, from Sanko in Toronto, my go-to source for hard-to-find Japanese ingredients. I think the best way to describe the resulting okonomiyaki is "mushy". I'm sure it's something I'll try again at some point, though; I think it was just a heat control issue. When we were in Japan, it looked like some restaurants made a distinction between okonomiyaki made with and without nagaimo, but I can't remember the menu terminology just now. Is it common to find both versions?Have you been able to find nagaimo in your area? I've heard it's becoming easier to find in Canada, and I would definitely recommend using it rather than baking powder. The woman who taught me to make okonomiyaki said if I couldn't get nagaimo, then just leave it out. You don't want the batter to rise, the nagaimo just makes a more tender product. Your recipe is about the same as mine, except I always add instant dashi granules, and I never add additional water. It makes the batter to watery (but the nagaimo adds moisture, so if I don't have nagaimo, I guess water would be necessary). MSG is delicious!
#27
Posted 15 November 2010 - 08:19 PM
A few years ago, I was wandering through the liquor store on my lunch break (as I did, back in those days), and was seduced by the look of the Campari bottle. Only... I didn't really know what it was. So I searched on the Internet, and found this really neat site called eGullet, where people seemed to know everything about everything! After reading about the Negroni, I not only bought that bottle of Campari, I also bought my first bottle of sweet vermouth (even though I had to search all over Montreal for a half-bottle, "in case I didn't like it." Montrealers like their vermouth, and tend to buy it in litre bottles.) That, in turn, led me to the Manhattan, but the Negroni was my gateway drug to eGullet. Cheers!
#28
Posted 16 November 2010 - 07:39 AM
Exactly what I enjoyed last night, except mine was a lazy version – simply poured over rocks. I do rather enjoy how the flavors change as the ice melts, though.
I hope to explore Japanese food some day, so I enjoyed seeing your meals today. Have you found a reasonable number and variety of weeknight-friendly Japanese meals?
One kitchen renovation tip: picture the space with nothing in it – no cabinets, no stove, no fridge, nothing. Maybe even no walls, if you find a (preferably non-supporting) wall in a troublesome area. It can be difficult to envision possibilities when all you can see are large, solid objects in the wrong locations.
Blog on! I am looking forward to the rest of your week.
eG Foodblog: Crabs, borscht, and fish sauce
#29
Posted 16 November 2010 - 08:03 AM
I was wondering about how bonito flakes work for home chefs... are they pre-shaved? I think I've seen actual bonito shaving devices in stores, but I don't think I've actually seen pieces of dried fish that weren't already in flakes.
#30
Posted 16 November 2010 - 08:05 AM
I've always preferred my Negronis up, though I have nothing against the rocks version. But then I lost points for trying to serve it that way on the Barsmarts Wired exam, even though the course materials clearly stated that either up or rocks were acceptable. Sigh.Exactly what I enjoyed last night, except mine was a lazy version – simply poured over rocks. I do rather enjoy how the flavors change as the ice melts, though.
I'd say so, yes, though some of them are of questionable nutritional value. (Curry rice, I'm looking at you.) Probably the three most frequent quick-n-easy Japanese weeknight dishes around here are okonomiyaki, yakiudon, and curry rice. Last week, I made soy-simmered sardines, edamame, miso soup, and rice, but that definitely took advantage of the fact that I work from home, since I could sit in the kitchen with my laptop while making the dashi. (I always make dashi from scratch.)I hope to explore Japanese food some day, so I enjoyed seeing your meals today. Have you found a reasonable number and variety of weeknight-friendly Japanese meals?
I'll get into this in more detail once I get some photos, but I think the walls are the biggest problem: I have two long walls and two short ones; one of the short ones is dominated by a window, and there are three doorways in total between the two long walls. Arranging cabinets around doorways is going to be a challenge - unless we start moving doorways.One kitchen renovation tip: picture the space with nothing in it – no cabinets, no stove, no fridge, nothing. Maybe even no walls, if you find a (preferably non-supporting) wall in a troublesome area. It can be difficult to envision possibilities when all you can see are large, solid objects in the wrong locations.
Here are some fridge pics! I've seen how empty some of my friends' fridges get, and I've never really understood that. My fridge goes from "moderately full" (like now) to "chock-a-block". I won't itemize everything, because there's just too much. I think it's a pretty good mix of fresh vegetables, condiments and what we tend to call "projects": What you can't see is that the jar of brandied cherries on the middle shelf is hiding four more just like it.
Fridge door:
Main fridge:
And freezer:
We also have a chest freezer in the basement for larger items. It's very useful when the upstairs one becomes dominated by cocktail glasses... which is usually the case.




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