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eG Foodblog: Prawncrackers (2010) - Cooking with Panda!

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#31 Prawncrackers

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 01:05 PM

Thanks Chris for posting those links.

Jenni, my camera set-up is very simple, just an Olympus DSLR (model E520) and when it's needed a flash pointed upwards so that the light is bounced off the ceiling. I don't try to compose my shots too much, just get it on the plate in a presentable fashion, take a couple of snaps and eat before it gets cold! In the early days of my photo-food-OCD folk would look at me like I'm mad but after a couple of years they've come to accept it.

#32 heidih

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 01:28 PM

Thanks for taking us along through your week. You noted that you do not eat breakfast before you leave the house. Do you have a morning beverage of choice in a particular format? Do you grab something along the way to eat before lunch? Oh- and I think so many of us are market freaks so any little glimpse of even the most simple market would be a treat (if photos permitted...)
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#33 Prawncrackers

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 01:45 PM

On the 15-20 minute drive home from work I pass by 2 Sainbury's, a Tesco and a Waitrose. If I continue to drive past my house for 5 mins then there's whole parade of Asian grocers. So i'm never stuck for groceries, today I popped into Waitrose because i wanted to pick up some cheese for a nice sloppy pizza. I have meat in the form of chorizo and salami that I made a couple of weeks ago (there's that pork theme again!):

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I'm not from Naples, never been either, in fact i'm not Italian so i'm not in anyway precious about pizza making. At the moment, I like a thinnish base and today I used only 200g of flour to make the dough which I try to roll out as thin as possible. But because of some kind of madness I try to put on as much topping as possible, it's like a game of pizza jenga! I've absolutely convinced myself that I don't like mozarella on pizza and over the years developed the rather unorthodox combination of Tallegio, smoked cheddar and parmesan! Waitrose is the only supermarket I know that sells Tallegio and I like to see the deli-counter assistant struggle to get the thin slices that i like for pizza topping. I like the Tallegio thin also because that stuff is so expensive. A little bit of smoked cheddar for me gives a nice base and i usually add that first onto the passatta with some oregano. Then cover as thickly as possible with sausage, anchovy next, then tallegio and parmesan. Actually looking at the photos now, I've only just realised that I forgot the olives and red onion! Anyway I build the pizza on a wooden peel dusted with semolina and slip onto a baking stone that's been heated in the oven at around 230C. I pulled this pizza out after about 13 minutes, the topping won today and some of the cheese had spilled over. Before slicing I dress it with some rocket. It was a good one today, a little mis-shapened but the base was cooked well. If anything I think i could have got away with a little more topping...

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#34 Chris Hennes

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 02:27 PM

Damn, you just reminded me I meant to make pizza dough yesterday for dinner tonight. That looks fantastic. Where did you get the recipes for the charcuterie?

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#35 Kim Shook

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 03:01 PM

The pizza looks fantastic. I love adding the fresh greens on top after baking.

#36 Prawncrackers

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 03:09 PM

Do you have a morning beverage of choice in a particular format? Do you grab something along the way to eat before lunch? Oh- and I think so many of us are market freaks so any little glimpse of even the most simple market would be a treat (if photos permitted...)

I'm not a big coffee drinker but i will have a couple of small cups in the morning from the free vending machines. To tie me over till lunch I have a cereal bar and I drink plenty of water during the day. It's a conscious decision on my behalf to practise a little abstinence at work, it would just be too easy to snack all day otherwise.
I'll try to take photos of the wholesale market tomorrow morning but be warned it's a very unlovely concrete carbuncle. Hopefully the produce will make up for it.

Damn, you just reminded me I meant to make pizza dough yesterday for dinner tonight. That looks fantastic. Where did you get the recipes for the charcuterie?


Thanks Chris, the Charcuterie recipes are from Ruhlman & Polcyn of course. More with them later.

#37 Blether

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 06:18 PM

Blether, yes that Chilli oil is the same stuff I put on my rice. It's good on roasted meat and fried stuff but really you can put it on anything you like. It's definitely more of a condiment rather than a cooking ingredient. Looks like you've had a couple of spoonfuls already, did you like?


Funnily enough, 'not completely full' is how it came, but yes, I like the flavour well enough. Not too spicy, and as well as the sesame I suspect a hint of star anise ? I like the idea of having it on salad - it having turned cold, maybe I'll try dressing some hot veggies. I've been eating my way through a big batch of Thai pork curry and haven't felt the need for much more spice in the last week or more.

#38 weinoo

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 06:42 PM

I'm not a big coffee drinker but i will have a couple of small cups in the morning from the free vending machines.

Okay, please. Just shoot me now.

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#39 David Ross

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 06:58 PM

Is there a market in the UK that is akin to Whole Foods in the US?

#40 maggiethecat

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 07:27 PM

Now THAT's a gorgeous pizza.

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#41 FoodMuse

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 09:56 PM

A little bit of smoked cheddar for me gives a nice base and i usually add that first onto the passatta with some oregano. Then cover as thickly as possible with sausage, anchovy next, then tallegio and parmesan. Actually looking at the photos now, I've only just realised that I forgot the olives and red onion!


Brilliant. I love all these flavors. Would great stuffed in mini calzones too.

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#42 Kent Wang

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 10:28 PM

Do you have a curing chamber?

#43 Prawncrackers

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 01:33 AM


I'm not a big coffee drinker but i will have a couple of small cups in the morning from the free vending machines.

Okay, please. Just shoot me now.

I know i know, it's not good stuff but I'll make it up to you today by brewing my own!

Is there a market in the UK that is akin to Whole Foods in the US

There are Whole Foods shops here in the UK but the only ones i've seen are in London. The impression I get of the way Whole Foods is marketed is that they are a cut above the average, is that right? If that's the case then the closest thing we would be a cross between a Selfridges/Harrods food hall and Waitrose. If I want high-quality produce here in Brum then I shop around, fish at the market, meat at my trusted butcher, veg from the farm shop or the Asian grocers is usually better than the supermarkets. But then i think our supermarket veg is pretty good in general:

Do you have a curing chamber?

I have a garage and a thermometer and my fingers crossed:
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Edited by Prawncrackers, 10 November 2010 - 01:35 AM.


#44 Prawncrackers

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 02:49 AM

Birmingham Wholesale Market is the biggest in the country, it probably is the ugliest too:
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Even at 7 in the morning a lot of the trading has been done and it's just the odd shopper like me in there:
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Chatting to the more jolly fish merchants today (they do exist) it's as i feared, the bad weather has limited today's choice little. Especially disappointed that there were no native lobsters but the Canadian ones look good and lively. No native razor clams either, which are usually the size of Churchhill cigars, the ones today are from the Med and are little smaller - more panatella! Massive prawns though, Madagascan, £49 a box!! Not today mate. I was particularly impressed with the huge halibut in the yellow bin, it must have been 150lb! They were selling it's brother cut up in tranches to order. You know I've only just thought about it but has anyone tried Halibut liver? I wonder if that fish has been gutted...
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There were some interesting items in the poultry section, I have my eye on one of these for xmas:
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In the end, this was my early morning haul. Yup, couldn't resist the lobsters and the razors. The turbot was spankingly fresh and had more slime on it than I've ever seen (always a good sign). Even though I was planning a seafood meal tonight, my wife last night requested Chicken rice too, so when I saw my favourite Label Rouge chickens there today I knew I had to make some. Oh and I picked up some quail eggs for a dish I'm thinking about tomorrow:
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#45 nakji

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 02:54 AM

Oh, the lobsters made me tear up a little. I miss really excellently fresh seafood. What are you going to do with them?

#46 Prawncrackers

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 06:24 AM

I've changed my mind about a thousand times about the menu for today and tomorrow. I've decided that there's too much a la minute cooking if I include razor clams in black bean sauce today so i'm saving them for tomorrow. Lobsters I 'm going to stir fry in my nice big wok with scallions and ginger, classic Cantonese style and serve them over soft noodles as a first course. The second course is chicken rice, steamed turbot and veg. Hopefully my guests will remember to bring dessert.

Today is officially a study day so I'm actually doing some right now. Dinner is planned for 6:30, what time do you think I should start cooking?

#47 Prawncrackers

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 08:12 AM

For a midday snack today i had a grilled cheese sandwich made with sourdough bread, crumbly mature cheddar and my own chorizo:

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(knife in shot is my Itou parer)

#48 Chris Amirault

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 08:32 AM

What do you use to make grilled cheese?
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#49 Shaya

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 08:37 AM

Hi Prawncrackers, Great to see your process up close. Your food is always gorgeous. I have been through those actuarial exams so I know of what you speak! Best of luck to you. During those gruelling study days I used to throw some chevre inside of a half avocado for my 5-minute allotted lunch. I saved the good food for the evenings.

#50 nickloman

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 10:19 AM

What do you use to make grilled cheese?


A grill? ;)

#51 Chris Amirault

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 10:20 AM

Should've been clearer. We have this little press thingie that also makes waffles with other inserts, and having heating elements on both sides really helps. But that sandwich looks really perfect to me....
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#52 nickloman

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 10:29 AM

I was just playing. Looks like its been in a panini press to me, but I'm sure Prawny will tell us :)

#53 Prawncrackers

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 10:34 AM

It's a grilled cheese in name only as it's never grilled. I use a pan with a little butter and olive oil. When the butter's melted I put the sandwich in one half of the pan so one side of the sandwich is covered in butter. I immediately and carefully flip the sandwich over to the other half of the pan so the other side is covered with butter too. Then it's just a of case of pressing the bread down with a spatula till it's "grilled" on one side then flipping again and grilling the other side. I've bent many a spatula with my grilled cheeses!

#54 Fat Guy

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 12:32 PM

Prawncrackers, with respect I must state objections to mixing the egg in with the rice before cooking fried rice. I prefer actual pieces of egg in the finished product. If you mix the egg in completely, either before or during cooking, you get a barely perceptible egg coating but no actual egg you can sink your teeth into.
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#55 Prawncrackers

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 01:28 PM

Objection noted Fat Guy! It also depends on how much egg you use but you don't get the big lumps of egg with this method unless you use a lot

#56 Fat Guy

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 02:54 PM

Have you ever tried the Jean-Georges method: plating the fried rice and topping with a fried egg? (Garnished with crispy minced ginger and garlic.) I highly recommend it for "company" fried rice.

http://www.nytimes.c..._r=1&ref=dining

Short of that, the only system I've ever been able to make work well has been to cook the egg first, cut it up and add it back in at the end. I've seen a Chinese-restaurant chef do it mid-cook, but I think that approach must require a hotter wok than I can achieve at home.
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#57 Dejah

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 03:52 PM

Jean-George's "fried rice" doesn't even looked fried. :unsure:

As for cooking the egg, taking it out, cutting it in pieces and adding it back at the end, that's the way we served it in our restaurant, unless it's deluxe fried rice. With the latter, the raw egg is added after everything else is incorporated and cooked in the wok, then the egg is cracked into a cleared space in the wok and worked into the fried rice. The result, there are flecks of fried egg thoughout the dish.

A question about "grilled cheese". What makes a grilled cheese a grilled cheese if it's not done in a frying pan or griddle? Enquiring mind needs this cleared up...

That's quite the "curing room" you've got Prawn. Great to see you blogging!
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#58 nakji

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 03:59 PM

Have you ever tried the Jean-Georges method: plating the fried rice and topping with a fried egg? (Garnished with crispy minced ginger and garlic.) I highly recommend it for "company" fried rice.


That's quite a common method for fried rice in Korea. I prefer it, because you get the oozy yellow yolk to break over the rice. I'm not sure, but I feel like you can get fried rice variations with a fried egg in Malaysia as well. And, of course, nasi goreng often comes with a fried egg on the side.Something I've never been successfully recreated at is the "Thai Fried Rice" or "Omurice" - dishes that completely encase rice with an omelet.

#59 Prawncrackers

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 04:48 PM

One of the reasons why the French Label Rouge chickens are best for Chicken rice is you always get big plug of chicken fat in the cavity. Trust the French to know that this is a vital cooking ingredient, you will never find it in a chicken processed in the UK. Once it's rendered down with some excess skin (cooks treats) I slowly brown some shallots as the base for my chicken rice. That's why everyone who eats it loves my version of this classic:
(Knife spotters: tonight's knives - Global flexible boning, Murray Carter HG White Steel Funayuki and my brand new Misono Western Deba)
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Preparing the turbot I can tell the freshness by the quality of the guts, in particular the liver looked good enough to eat raw (I didn't). The chicken was simmered for 15mins then immersed with the heat off for another 45mins and hung for a couple of hours. At the last minute the lobsters were dispatched, cut into pieces, sprinkled with cornflour, deep-fried, set-aside then stir-fried with Scallion and Ginger, chicken stock etc and served on a bed of soft egg noodles. Sorry I couldn't get more action shots but the cooking frenzy was upon me!
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The second course was the chicken rice with chilli and ginger-scallion sauces. Turbot steamed for 13 minutes, I think this was everyone's favourite dish of the night. It was as predicted so fresh, the liver peeking below the garnish was sublime and all mine. Another cooks treat just for me. The last dish was Water Spinach with King Crab in Oyster Sauce. Luckily I remembered I had some frozen cooked king crab and it was a good opportunity to use it. Oh and some salted duck eggs. I forgot to photo the rice this time but you know all what savoury chicken rice looks like!
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My guests did well, not only did they bring sticky toffee pudding but they brough the best sticky toffee pudding I've ever eaten. We had it with vanilla ice-cream and raspberries, fantastic meal all round, very satisfied indeed:
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Edited by Prawncrackers, 10 November 2010 - 05:08 PM.


#60 prasantrin

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Posted 10 November 2010 - 04:51 PM

That's like a restaurant meal! Next time I want Chinese food, I'm eating at Prawncrackers' house!

I think I need some of that sticky pudding, too.





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