5 replies to this topic

[Harters]

I reckon that when people say “I wish there was a great little place round the corner” what they have in mind is somewhere like Damson. Now, it’s not exactly round my corner but it is only ten minutes away. And as soon as you hear that it’s owned by Steve Pilling (ex of Sam’s Chop House in Manchester), you know it’s going to push the buttons.

There’s a short set menu offering two courses for £18.95 and a couple of quid more for a third but we went for the “a la carte”. Wine list is good and my wife was a particularly pleased to see a range of sherries on offer as she’s a bit of fan of a decent fino.

I started with pigeon breast, candied walnut and beetroot. It came with some watercress and a nicely sharp dressing which contrasted well with the candied items. Pigeon was cooked to medium and could have done with a tad less as it was on the point of being chewy.

The other was a much better bet. Scallops and cauliflower puree are commonplace. As are scallops with black pudding. But here the cauliflower had been lightly curried. And the black pudding turned into crispy croquettes. Scallops were accurately cooked and there was dressing of raisins and apple. Nice. Very nice.

We both went for fish main courses. Sea bass; butternut squash risotto; tomato sauce – nice piece of fish but the delicate flavour overpowered by the amount of lemon added to the risotto (which also overpowered the sweetness of the squash). The other was a fillet of hake which sat on a mound of salt cod brandade. There was some olive puree, a few scattered roasted cherry tomatoes and a bouillabaisse sauce (presumably menu-speak for a fairly ordinary fish sauce). We shared a side order of superb chips.

Desserts were excellent. Prune& Armagnac crème brulee – a very festive set of flavours. Yoghurt & buttermilk pannacotta, cranberry compote and stem ginger icecream – more festive flavours – the sweetness of the pannacotta working well with the sharp cranberries and the slightly spicy icecream.

Bill, including for a couple of glasses of wine and a bottle of water came to £73, including a voluntary donation of £1 to very worthwhile homeless charity, Streetsmart – money raised locally is used locally. Service was bang on – not rushed but no inappropriately long delays in either taking orders or bringing food.

At last, somewhere decent to eat in Stockport.

Edited by Harters, 21 December 2009 - 08:29 AM.

[david goodfellow]

Sounds good John, and not too far away from me.

Is it a recent opening?

[Harters]

Sometime in the spring, David.

Certainly well worth a trip for you. Worth it just for the chips!

[ajnicholls]

God, it's about time that there was somewhere worth eating in the vast culinary wasteland where I grew up

[aaronfennell]

my sister in law lives in heaton moor my have to "visit" her soon

[thom]

I've been a couple of times, and although I found it good it was not quite "very good". Possibly it was swmaped by expectation, as following the reviews, the pedigree of the team and feedback from local foodie mates I expected something nudging on outstanding.

Slipshod service and some variable dishes (not to mention an unexpected squid beak in a risotto, which at least proved their prep their own seafood, albeit not well enough) sullied my last two visits, and distracted from what was generally very capable cooking and an eatable menu. Added to that the fit-out is a cut above your usual suburban joint and the winelist is excellent.

I think it's the sort of place you'd be delighted to have as your "walking-distance" restaurant in your own neighbourhood, but for me it is not the sort of local restaurant I'd travel to from out of the area on a regular basis and nor would I yearn to phsyically transport it (in the manner of Disney's "Up") back to my own neck of the woods.

Actually maybe I would, but that's because I live in a culinary desert. If I lived somewhere comparable like Didsbury or Chorlton I would be less fussed...

Edited by thom, 18 January 2010 - 10:14 AM.