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Report:eG Chocolate and Confectionery Conference

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204 replies to this topic

#181 merlicky

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Posted 15 May 2009 - 08:05 PM

Thanks! None of them lasted for more than 4 days so I couldn't tell what would happen. There was no crystalization, just a thickening...still good, still gooey...just not oozy any more. As long as they don't continue to thicken though, I'm fine with it.

And, I really liked them with dark chocolate too. I used a 61% E. Guittards, but I think I might go with something a little darker next time.

#182 beacheschef

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Posted 16 May 2009 - 01:57 PM

The insides are gooey still, not really bite-off-half-and-have-the-filling-flow-out oozy, but most definitely not even close to stick-your-teeth-together chewy. No evidence of caramelization.

View Post


I made the Grewling caramel slab (recipe using sweetened condensed milk) a few days ago and found my caramels "stick to your teeth" chewy. I cut the slab on a rainy night (I THink that was part of my problem, although the house is air conditioned) and dipped the caramels that evening.

Would I want to cook the caramel a few degrees further to avoid the "stick to teeth" texture?
Beaches Pastry
May your celebrations be sweet!
Beaches Pastry Blog

#183 beacheschef

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Posted 16 May 2009 - 02:04 PM

Here is the port and cigar center aka "the gentleman retire to the library".


                          Port and Cigars


  Amount  Measure      Ingredient -- Preparation Method
--------  ------------  --------------------------------
                        Pate De Fruit
250      grams        pear puree
  75      grams        sugar
  10      grams        apple pectin
  375    grams        sugar
  75      grams        glucose
  250    grams        banyuls or port
  10      grams        tartaric acid solution (equal amts water/tartaric)
  10      grams        banyuls or port
   
                        Tobacco Ganache
250      grams        PNG single origin dark
  55      grams        butter
  55      grams        invert sugar
  2        grams        tobacco (from a good cigar)
285      grams        whipping cream

Mix the 75 grams sugar with pectin.  Cook together pear puree for 2 minutes.  Add the remaining sugar and glucose and cook to 112ºC.  Add 250 grams wine and take to 107º C.  Add tartaric solution and 10 grams wine. Pour into a 12 X 12 inch frame.

Infuse tobacco in hot cream, strain, don't press.  Add invert sugar and cool to 30º C, add to 40º C chocolate, add butter.  Pour over fruit jelly in frame and level.

View Post



Kerry - How long do you want to infuse the tobacco in the cream?

This will be my first time making pate de fruits - so I have a couple of questions about the ingredients.
Can I use cream of tartar as my tartaric acid?
Can I make invert sugar? I seem to remember seeing a recipe about a week ago, and now it's lost. Or - is this an ingredient I need to order?

I bought the Banyuls this afternoon. Looking forward to experimenting with this!
Thanks
Beaches Pastry
May your celebrations be sweet!
Beaches Pastry Blog

#184 Kerry Beal

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Posted 16 May 2009 - 02:45 PM

Here is the port and cigar center aka "the gentleman retire to the library".


                           Port and Cigars


  Amount  Measure       Ingredient -- Preparation Method
--------  ------------  --------------------------------
                        Pate De Fruit
250      grams         pear puree
  75      grams         sugar
  10      grams         apple pectin
  375     grams         sugar
   75      grams         glucose
  250     grams         banyuls or port
   10      grams         tartaric acid solution (equal amts water/tartaric)
   10      grams         banyuls or port
    
                        Tobacco Ganache
250      grams         PNG single origin dark
  55       grams         butter
  55       grams         invert sugar
   2        grams         tobacco (from a good cigar)
285      grams         whipping cream

Mix the 75 grams sugar with pectin.  Cook together pear puree for 2 minutes.  Add the remaining sugar and glucose and cook to 112ºC.  Add 250 grams wine and take to 107º C.  Add tartaric solution and 10 grams wine. Pour into a 12 X 12 inch frame.

Infuse tobacco in hot cream, strain, don't press.  Add invert sugar and cool to 30º C, add to 40º C chocolate, add butter.  Pour over fruit jelly in frame and level.

View Post



Kerry - How long do you want to infuse the tobacco in the cream?

This will be my first time making pate de fruits - so I have a couple of questions about the ingredients.
Can I use cream of tartar as my tartaric acid?
Can I make invert sugar? I seem to remember seeing a recipe about a week ago, and now it's lost. Or - is this an ingredient I need to order?

I bought the Banyuls this afternoon. Looking forward to experimenting with this!
Thanks

View Post

5 minutes or so of infusion of the tobacco should be fine.

Cream of tartar can't be substituted - you could use citric acid (sour salt in the supermarket) instead.

I included two recipes for invert sugar with the recipes for the conference. PM me your regular e-mail address if you need them again.

#185 Kerry Beal

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Posted 16 May 2009 - 02:46 PM


The insides are gooey still, not really bite-off-half-and-have-the-filling-flow-out oozy, but most definitely not even close to stick-your-teeth-together chewy. No evidence of caramelization.

View Post


I made the Grewling caramel slab (recipe using sweetened condensed milk) a few days ago and found my caramels "stick to your teeth" chewy. I cut the slab on a rainy night (I THink that was part of my problem, although the house is air conditioned) and dipped the caramels that evening.

Would I want to cook the caramel a few degrees further to avoid the "stick to teeth" texture?

View Post

I think that the 'stickjaw' problem is helped more by fat in the recipe.

#186 beacheschef

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Posted 16 May 2009 - 04:02 PM


The insides are gooey still, not really bite-off-half-and-have-the-filling-flow-out oozy, but most definitely not even close to stick-your-teeth-together chewy. No evidence of caramelization.

View Post


I made the Grewling caramel slab (recipe using sweetened condensed milk) a few days ago and found my caramels "stick to your teeth" chewy. I cut the slab on a rainy night (I THink that was part of my problem, although the house is air conditioned) and dipped the caramels that evening.

Would I want to cook the caramel a few degrees further to avoid the "stick to teeth" texture?

View Post

I think that the 'stickjaw' problem is helped more by fat in the recipe.

View Post


Going back to using cream and sugar, instead of sweetened condensed milk?
Hmmm...didn't think of that. I'll change recipes and see what happens.
Thanks - M
Beaches Pastry
May your celebrations be sweet!
Beaches Pastry Blog

#187 beacheschef

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Posted 17 May 2009 - 05:10 PM

5 minutes or so of infusion of the tobacco should be fine.

Cream of tartar can't be substituted - you could use citric acid (sour salt in the supermarket) instead.

I included two recipes for invert sugar with the recipes for the conference.  PM me your regular e-mail address if you need them again.

View Post


I made the invert sugar recipe tonight - it turned brown and bubbled when I added the baking soda solution. Is it supposed to turn color?

For the citric acid I'm using "Fruit Fresh" - a fruit preservative. Is this OK? I've never heard of "sour salt".
Beaches Pastry
May your celebrations be sweet!
Beaches Pastry Blog

#188 Kerry Beal

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Posted 17 May 2009 - 05:20 PM


5 minutes or so of infusion of the tobacco should be fine.

Cream of tartar can't be substituted - you could use citric acid (sour salt in the supermarket) instead.

I included two recipes for invert sugar with the recipes for the conference.  PM me your regular e-mail address if you need them again.

View Post


I made the invert sugar recipe tonight - it turned brown and bubbled when I added the baking soda solution. Is it supposed to turn color?

For the citric acid I'm using "Fruit Fresh" - a fruit preservative. Is this OK? I've never heard of "sour salt".

View Post

I may be mistaken but I think Fruit Fresh is ascorbic acid. If you look in the kosher section of the grocery store you should find sour salt.

The invert sugar usually ends up a golden colour.

#189 Darienne

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Posted 17 May 2009 - 06:35 PM

My invert sugar recipe just calls for sugar, water and citric acid or lemon juice. I've made it and used it with good results.

What is the purpose of the baking soda and where does this recipe come from, please?

Thanks
Darienne


learn, learn, learn...

Cheers & Chocolates

#190 mkayahara

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 01:52 PM

I just tried out the invert sugar recipe, too. I scaled it back to a half batch, and used citric acid. When I added the baking soda, I got a very big foamy reaction, and the final product looks cloudy, not clear like it was at the conference. It's also about the consistency of honey (or glucose syrup, maybe). Are these things normal, or do I have to start over?

Also, is it shelf-stable, or does it need to be refrigerated?

Thanks!
Matthew Kayahara
Kayahara.ca
@mtkayahara

#191 beacheschef

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 02:09 PM


5 minutes or so of infusion of the tobacco should be fine.

Cream of tartar can't be substituted - you could use citric acid (sour salt in the supermarket) instead.

I included two recipes for invert sugar with the recipes for the conference.  PM me your regular e-mail address if you need them again.

View Post


I made the invert sugar recipe tonight - it turned brown and bubbled when I added the baking soda solution. Is it supposed to turn color?

For the citric acid I'm using "Fruit Fresh" - a fruit preservative. Is this OK? I've never heard of "sour salt".

View Post

I may be mistaken but I think Fruit Fresh is ascorbic acid. If you look in the kosher section of the grocery store you should find sour salt.

The invert sugar usually ends up a golden colour.

View Post


I made the PDF with the Banyuls, substituting citric acid and water for tartaric acid solution. The taste is great!

"...Mix the 75 grams sugar with pectin. Cook together pear puree for 2 minutes. Add the remaining sugar and glucose and cook to 112ºC. Add 250 grams wine and take to 107º C. Add tartaric solution and 10 grams wine. Pour into a 12 X 12 inch frame."

Once I added the banyuls to the mixture I had a hard time getting the mixture to combine - it appeared to gel into some lumps. I whisked it unitl it reached 107C, then added the citric acid solution and wine. At this point, it became much more lumpy and I couldn't whisk the lumps out. I used a stick blender and got rid of some lumps, then strained the pdf into my frame.

What caused the lumps to form? I was stirring the mixture continuously.
Thanks for the help.
Beaches Pastry
May your celebrations be sweet!
Beaches Pastry Blog

#192 cmflick

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 02:22 PM


5 minutes or so of infusion of the tobacco should be fine.

Cream of tartar can't be substituted - you could use citric acid (sour salt in the supermarket) instead.

I included two recipes for invert sugar with the recipes for the conference.  PM me your regular e-mail address if you need them again.

View Post


I made the invert sugar recipe tonight - it turned brown and bubbled when I added the baking soda solution. Is it supposed to turn color?

For the citric acid I'm using "Fruit Fresh" - a fruit preservative. Is this OK? I've never heard of "sour salt".

View Post

I may be mistaken but I think Fruit Fresh is ascorbic acid. If you look in the kosher section of the grocery store you should find sour salt.

The invert sugar usually ends up a golden colour.

View Post


I made the PDF with the Banyuls, substituting citric acid and water for tartaric acid solution. The taste is great!

"...Mix the 75 grams sugar with pectin. Cook together pear puree for 2 minutes. Add the remaining sugar and glucose and cook to 112ºC. Add 250 grams wine and take to 107º C. Add tartaric solution and 10 grams wine. Pour into a 12 X 12 inch frame."

Once I added the banyuls to the mixture I had a hard time getting the mixture to combine - it appeared to gel into some lumps. I whisked it unitl it reached 107C, then added the citric acid solution and wine. At this point, it became much more lumpy and I couldn't whisk the lumps out. I used a stick blender and got rid of some lumps, then strained the pdf into my frame.

What caused the lumps to form? I was stirring the mixture continuously.
Thanks for the help.

View Post

It sounds to me like your PdF was setting before you got it out of the pot. As soon as you add the acid things can move pretty quickly. I used to have a lot of problems with this. Now I've switched to slow-set pectin which sets at a much lower temperature and haven't had any problems with lumpy PdF since I made the change.

#193 John DePaula

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 02:33 PM


5 minutes or so of infusion of the tobacco should be fine.

Cream of tartar can't be substituted - you could use citric acid (sour salt in the supermarket) instead.

I included two recipes for invert sugar with the recipes for the conference.  PM me your regular e-mail address if you need them again.

View Post


I made the invert sugar recipe tonight - it turned brown and bubbled when I added the baking soda solution. Is it supposed to turn color?

For the citric acid I'm using "Fruit Fresh" - a fruit preservative. Is this OK? I've never heard of "sour salt".

View Post

I may be mistaken but I think Fruit Fresh is ascorbic acid. If you look in the kosher section of the grocery store you should find sour salt.

The invert sugar usually ends up a golden colour.

View Post


I made the PDF with the Banyuls, substituting citric acid and water for tartaric acid solution. The taste is great!

"...Mix the 75 grams sugar with pectin. Cook together pear puree for 2 minutes. Add the remaining sugar and glucose and cook to 112ºC. Add 250 grams wine and take to 107º C. Add tartaric solution and 10 grams wine. Pour into a 12 X 12 inch frame."

Once I added the banyuls to the mixture I had a hard time getting the mixture to combine - it appeared to gel into some lumps. I whisked it unitl it reached 107C, then added the citric acid solution and wine. At this point, it became much more lumpy and I couldn't whisk the lumps out. I used a stick blender and got rid of some lumps, then strained the pdf into my frame.

What caused the lumps to form? I was stirring the mixture continuously.
Thanks for the help.

View Post

Did you pre-warm the wine? If your mixture falls below a certain point (like by adding a bunch of room-temperature wine), the pectin will begin to set and then you've had it.

As cmflick says, the slow-setting pectin may help. There are also some thermo-reversible ones out there.
John DePaula
DePaula Confections
Hand-crafted artisanal chocolates & gourmet confections - …Because Pleasure Matters…
--------------------
When asked “What are the secrets of good cooking? Escoffier replied, “There are three: butter, butter and butter.”

#194 Kerry Beal

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 02:47 PM

My invert sugar recipe just calls for sugar, water and citric acid or lemon juice.  I've made it and used it with good results.

What is the purpose of the baking soda and where does this recipe come from, please?

Thanks

View Post

It comes from one of the Wybauw books.

#195 beacheschef

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 02:48 PM

Did you pre-warm the wine?  If your mixture falls below a certain point (like by adding a bunch of room-temperature wine), the pectin will begin to set and then you've had it.

As cmflick says, the slow-setting pectin may help.  There are also some thermo-reversible ones out there.

View Post



That's it! I didn't know to warm the wine, but it makes complete sense.
Thanks, John!
Beaches Pastry
May your celebrations be sweet!
Beaches Pastry Blog

#196 Kerry Beal

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 02:51 PM

I just tried out the invert sugar recipe, too. I scaled it back to a half batch, and used citric acid. When I added the baking soda, I got a very big foamy reaction, and the final product looks cloudy, not clear like it was at the conference. It's also about the consistency of honey (or glucose syrup, maybe). Are these things normal, or do I have to start over?

Also, is it shelf-stable, or does it need to be refrigerated?

Thanks!

View Post

Mine's clear and about the texture of honey or corn syrup. I keep it at room temperature. I think I used tartaric for my last batch. I don't see any reason why it shouldn't be fine even if cloudy - I mean really - all it is is sugar.

#197 mkayahara

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 03:00 PM

I just tried out the invert sugar recipe, too. I scaled it back to a half batch, and used citric acid. When I added the baking soda, I got a very big foamy reaction, and the final product looks cloudy, not clear like it was at the conference. It's also about the consistency of honey (or glucose syrup, maybe). Are these things normal, or do I have to start over?

Also, is it shelf-stable, or does it need to be refrigerated?

Thanks!

View Post

Mine's clear and about the texture of honey or corn syrup. I keep it at room temperature. I think I used tartaric for my last batch. I don't see any reason why it shouldn't be fine even if cloudy - I mean really - all it is is sugar.

View Post

Great, thank you! Looking at it now that it's had a chance to settle, it looks like the cloudiness was actually from bubbles. It seems to be clearing, so I'm sure it'll be perfectly limpid by tomorrow. :biggrin:
Matthew Kayahara
Kayahara.ca
@mtkayahara

#198 Kerry Beal

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Posted 18 May 2009 - 03:01 PM


5 minutes or so of infusion of the tobacco should be fine.

Cream of tartar can't be substituted - you could use citric acid (sour salt in the supermarket) instead.

I included two recipes for invert sugar with the recipes for the conference.  PM me your regular e-mail address if you need them again.

View Post


I made the invert sugar recipe tonight - it turned brown and bubbled when I added the baking soda solution. Is it supposed to turn color?

For the citric acid I'm using "Fruit Fresh" - a fruit preservative. Is this OK? I've never heard of "sour salt".

View Post

I may be mistaken but I think Fruit Fresh is ascorbic acid. If you look in the kosher section of the grocery store you should find sour salt.

The invert sugar usually ends up a golden colour.

View Post


I made the PDF with the Banyuls, substituting citric acid and water for tartaric acid solution. The taste is great!

"...Mix the 75 grams sugar with pectin. Cook together pear puree for 2 minutes. Add the remaining sugar and glucose and cook to 112ºC. Add 250 grams wine and take to 107º C. Add tartaric solution and 10 grams wine. Pour into a 12 X 12 inch frame."

Once I added the banyuls to the mixture I had a hard time getting the mixture to combine - it appeared to gel into some lumps. I whisked it unitl it reached 107C, then added the citric acid solution and wine. At this point, it became much more lumpy and I couldn't whisk the lumps out. I used a stick blender and got rid of some lumps, then strained the pdf into my frame.

What caused the lumps to form? I was stirring the mixture continuously.
Thanks for the help.

View Post

Did you pre-warm the wine? If your mixture falls below a certain point (like by adding a bunch of room-temperature wine), the pectin will begin to set and then you've had it.

As cmflick says, the slow-setting pectin may help. There are also some thermo-reversible ones out there.

View Post

As John and cmflick have said the PDF tends to set up pretty quickly once you add the tartaric acid. I have my frames ready to go before I start the PDF and as soon as I add the acid - it goes immediately into the frame. I tend not to add the pot scrapings either as they form lumps on the top of the of the jelly.

#199 beacheschef

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Posted 19 May 2009 - 06:41 AM


5 minutes or so of infusion of the tobacco should be fine.

Cream of tartar can't be substituted - you could use citric acid (sour salt in the supermarket) instead.

I included two recipes for invert sugar with the recipes for the conference.  PM me your regular e-mail address if you need them again.

View Post


I made the invert sugar recipe tonight - it turned brown and bubbled when I added the baking soda solution. Is it supposed to turn color?

For the citric acid I'm using "Fruit Fresh" - a fruit preservative. Is this OK? I've never heard of "sour salt".

View Post

I may be mistaken but I think Fruit Fresh is ascorbic acid. If you look in the kosher section of the grocery store you should find sour salt.

The invert sugar usually ends up a golden colour.

View Post


I made the PDF with the Banyuls, substituting citric acid and water for tartaric acid solution. The taste is great!

"...Mix the 75 grams sugar with pectin. Cook together pear puree for 2 minutes. Add the remaining sugar and glucose and cook to 112ºC. Add 250 grams wine and take to 107º C. Add tartaric solution and 10 grams wine. Pour into a 12 X 12 inch frame."

Once I added the banyuls to the mixture I had a hard time getting the mixture to combine - it appeared to gel into some lumps. I whisked it unitl it reached 107C, then added the citric acid solution and wine. At this point, it became much more lumpy and I couldn't whisk the lumps out. I used a stick blender and got rid of some lumps, then strained the pdf into my frame.

What caused the lumps to form? I was stirring the mixture continuously.
Thanks for the help.

View Post

Did you pre-warm the wine? If your mixture falls below a certain point (like by adding a bunch of room-temperature wine), the pectin will begin to set and then you've had it.

As cmflick says, the slow-setting pectin may help. There are also some thermo-reversible ones out there.

View Post

As John and cmflick have said the PDF tends to set up pretty quickly once you add the tartaric acid. I have my frames ready to go before I start the PDF and as soon as I add the acid - it goes immediately into the frame. I tend not to add the pot scrapings either as they form lumps on the top of the of the jelly.

View Post



Thanks for the help, everyone. I'm really pleased with the pdf. Today I'll make the ganache for the top layer.
Beaches Pastry
May your celebrations be sweet!
Beaches Pastry Blog

#200 Camano Chef

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 09:27 PM

Matt,

I'm going to be getting some rulers cut at the metal supermarket for Kyle - let me know if you want me to get you some too.  I'm also going to get him a sink cutout for a marble slab - let me know if you want one.

View Post

Sure, that'd be great! What sizes do you recommend? Greweling seems to use both 1/4-inch and 1/2-inch widths, so would it be best to get a set of each?

Strangely, we already have a marble slab, so we're covered in that respect. Thanks!

View Post

I've been talking to his mom about getting a set of 1/2 inch, and a set of 1/2 by 1/4 inch. With those I pour the first layer with the rulers set at 1/4 inch, then turn them on their 1/2 inch side for the next layer.

And there is enough weight in the 1/4 by 1/2 to prevent movement.

I like to cut 2 to 12 inches and 2 to 8 inches, but let me know if you'd prefer all 12 inches.

View Post



#201 Camano Chef

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Posted 10 June 2009 - 09:32 PM

Matt,

I'm going to be getting some rulers cut at the metal supermarket for Kyle - let me know if you want me to get you some too.  I'm also going to get him a sink cutout for a marble slab - let me know if you want one.

View Post

Sure, that'd be great! What sizes do you recommend? Greweling seems to use both 1/4-inch and 1/2-inch widths, so would it be best to get a set of each?

Strangely, we already have a marble slab, so we're covered in that respect. Thanks!

View Post

I've been talking to his mom about getting a set of 1/2 inch, and a set of 1/2 by 1/4 inch. With those I pour the first layer with the rulers set at 1/4 inch, then turn them on their 1/2 inch side for the next layer.

And there is enough weight in the 1/4 by 1/2 to prevent movement.

I like to cut 2 to 12 inches and 2 to 8 inches, but let me know if you'd prefer all 12 inches.

View Post

View Post




I got some 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" type 304 stainless square stock and cut my own rulers. Quick simple and cheap. They are fairly heavy and usually do not need to be fixed. If so I just use masking tape which works well.

I almost always work on Silpat mats.

Hope this helps

Phil

#202 cmflick

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Posted 29 October 2009 - 09:03 AM

Flowing Caramel
75 grams glucose
175 grams sugar
125 grams heavy cream - warmed
25 grams butter
1 tsp vanilla
Caramelize sugar and glucose until well browned. Deglaze with warmed cream. Add butter and vanilla.


I finally tried to make the flowing caramel recipe from the Chocolate and Confectionery Conference today. Using the instructions that Kerry gave I ended up with a very soft caramel, but much too thick to pipe into molded shells once it cooled down to a temperature that wouldn't melt the shells. Any ideas what I could have done wrong? I thought that this was a caramel for filling shells.

#203 Kerry Beal

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Posted 29 October 2009 - 03:58 PM



Flowing Caramel
75 grams glucose
175 grams sugar
125 grams heavy cream - warmed
25 grams butter
1 tsp vanilla
Caramelize sugar and glucose until well browned. Deglaze with warmed cream. Add butter and vanilla.


I finally tried to make the flowing caramel recipe from the Chocolate and Confectionery Conference today. Using the instructions that Kerry gave I ended up with a very soft caramel, but much too thick to pipe into molded shells once it cooled down to a temperature that wouldn't melt the shells. Any ideas what I could have done wrong? I thought that this was a caramel for filling shells.

Did you boil further after adding cream?

#204 cmflick

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Posted 30 October 2009 - 04:52 AM

No, I didn't boil after adding the cream. Should I have? As soon as the cream was stirred in, I poured the caramel out of the pan into a bowl to start cooling.

#205 Kerry Beal

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Posted 30 October 2009 - 04:56 AM

No, I didn't boil after adding the cream. Should I have? As soon as the cream was stirred in, I poured the caramel out of the pan into a bowl to start cooling.

No - you did it correctly - boiling will make it thicker. Not sure what happened - mine is quite liquid.





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