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2009 Travelogue--Food in the Philippines


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#31 prasantrin

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 04:53 PM

Day 8

I’m starting to wear out. My tummy was better, but I stuck with oatmeal that morning with no Imodium. But then the longganisa my mother was eating looked so delicious, I just had to have a couple of links! And then there was mangosteen! Who doesn’t love mangosteen? It looks a bit dry in the picture, but I assure you it wasn't.
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Yet another busy eating day. Earlier this month while browsing blogs for eating advice, I saw an entry on Our Awesome Planet advertising a special reservation-only lechon lunch at Sylvia Miguel’s Garden. Lechon, or roast pig, is one of my favourite foods in the world, so of course I had to go. After e-mailing and texting the organizers back and forth, I was finally able to transfer the payment (this was our most expensive meal at P1500 per person), and we were all set! My Tita Lita (Mom’s cousin—“tita” means “aunt”, but it’s basically used for any relative in about the age group of your parents, or for close family friends about that age) was coming with us, too, and she’s a foodie extraordinaire!

The meeting place was at 10 am at a Starbuck’s at a highway rest stop somewhere along the Southern Luzon Expressway (SLEX). We got there about an hour early, so what could we do but have some cake while we waited? We also made the mistake of getting some coffee. While Starbuck’s food items are adapted to suit local tastes, the coffee is the same everywhere. Interpret that as you wish.

I had heard raves about the chocolate cake at Starbuck’s in Manila, so I wanted to try it, but they had so many! I ended up getting the Roca, thinking it would be something like Almond Roca. It wasn’t, but it was still delicious! It was surprisingly light and not too sweet. I would have preferred less chocolate ganache, and I didn’t care for the thick chocolate surrounding the cake, but my mom and Tita gobbled those parts up.
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Everyone finally showed up, and we left caravan-style for Tagaytay. Tagaytay is a rural area about an hour or so from Manila. The drive was quite beautiful, and many of the wealthy have built their retirement homes or second homes in the area because of the lush greenery and the clean air. It was much like La Trinidad where Eve’s Garden was. We were at the tail-end of the caravan, and our driver, not familiar with Manila or the surrounding rural areas, got left behind, so we missed the turn off. Oops. It took a bit of work to catch up with the others—the roads are narrow and confusing, and signage is not a priority is this particular country (plus our driver, not Tita’s usual driver, kind of sucked).

Oh well. We made it, and it was well worth the wait! The Rodriguez family built their house just a few years ago, and it’s absolutely beautiful. They really gave a lot of thought to how they wanted to use the property. They’ve got 2 ½ hectares, and part has already been developed as a farm where they grow vegetables (and maybe raise some animals).
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They’re still thinking about what to do with the rest of the property, but for their house, rather than rooms they’ve got separate buildings for each section, joined by covered walkways. I don’t have pictures of the buildings because I wanted to respect their privacy, but it was really something else. The smokehouse where the lechon was cooked was another little tiny building uphill from the living room (living house?), and I thought I had a picture of it, but no such luck
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Sylvia Rodriguez loves to cook, and she comes from a long line of food-lovers. Her maternal grandfather was the first Spanish pastry chef in the Philippines, and her father came from a family that insisted on eight dishes at every meal (plus four desserts). Both of her sons are chefs (one in Australia, and the other in Manila) who worked their way up in the kitchen by staging across Europe. Our meal was held on the patio of the living room building. Like Eve’s Garden, Sylvia Rodriguez’s Garden is a private restaurant. Sylvia only does this as a hobby, and only when she feels like it.

We started with a fish spread, and a duck and chicken pâté. Everyone loved the fish spread, because it’s not commonly found, and it's difficult to do well. I can’t remember the name of the fish, but they’re small and the word starts with “d” (any help out there?). It’s not easy to get fresh ones at the market (which is why the dish isn't commonly found), and Sylvia will only make this when the fish are absolutely fresh—she said they have to be really white. She adds chile, rosemary, parsley, and I can’t remember what else. It was delicious.
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The pâté was equally delicious. She uses 75% duck liver and 25% chicken, because if you use all duck it’s too rich, she said. It was so smooth and although you knew you were eating hundreds of calories with each schmear, it didn’t seem heavy at all. My mother, Tita, and I each bought a crock to take home. :smile: It was only P395 (it would go for 4-5 times that much in Japan, I’m sure) and came in a reusable crock! How could we resist?
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It was an hour or so before the main guest arrived from his private quarters. A month before our party, he was sequestered and fed only organic grains, which would supposedly give his meat a cleaner flavour. I don’t know much about raising pigs, but I can tell you he was delicious! Sometimes lechon can be dry, but not a single part of him (that any of my group tried) was.
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Rona Y.

#32 prasantrin

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 05:01 PM

This was the rest of the menu.
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Bagoong like I’ve never seen before. It’s made with dried shrimp, and Sylvia adds tomatoes, pork, and other things to hers. I’ve never liked bagoong, but I really liked this. It was served as a condiment to the kare kare vegetables, but I could have eaten it all by itself on some crackers.
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The kare kare vegetables were eggplant, green beans, and either spinach or kangkong (swamp cabbage?) or some other leafy green. They’re covered with the sauce from the kare kare. Unlike most vegetables in the Philippines, these were not overcooked at all.
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Kare kare is a kind of stewed beef dish. It’s a little like Massaman curry because it uses peanuts, and it tends to be a good introduction to Filipino food for foreigners. I don’t know any non-Filipino who doesn’t like kare kare. We weren’t sure if this was beef or ox-tail, but the meat was so tender I could cut it with a spoon (Filipinos eat with forks and spoons, much like Thais do).
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This was tilapia wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. I’ve got a close-up later on.
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Filipino-style paella. They often use achiote or turmeric instead of saffron for the colour. I didn’t try any of this, but my mother and Tita said it was really good.
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Grilled shrimp. I didn’t have this, either, but it looked good. My mother said it was dry.
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And the lechon! Look at that skin! And that fatty porky goodness! There wasn’t a lot of fat on this pig, and the meat was juicy and flavourful.
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“Oh no! My foot fell off!”
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This was my plate. Pitiful, isn’t it? But I wasn’t feeling that well by this time. Too much pâté I guess. I could have eaten more if I had tried, but it was going to be a 2-hour (minimum) trip back home, so it was best not to risk it. Plus the rice was crappy, and I tend to eat less when the rice isn’t good.
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Does the skin look crispy to you? I assure you, it was.
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Here’s the tilapia. To my mother’s surprise, it was also stuffed! And although she was already stuffed, she ate every last morsel of it (except the head, which I know she really wanted to gnaw on).
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Dessert was turon (a special banana wrapped in lumpia wrappers, then fried and coated in caramel) and a very non-Filipino dessert. It was sort of like tiramisu, but the flavour was more like mocha. It was very rich. I’d have liked to have eaten more turon, but the whipped cream from the cake-thing did me in.
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Almost everyone had left already, but some of us hung around a little longer. My group sat at a great table (there were three tables of about 10 people each) and talked about food the whole time with our tablemates. The two people on the left of the table are ethnic Chinese Filipinos, so they knew a lot about Chinese food (and history) in the Philippines, and they also gave us some travel advice (I think it’ll be Taiwan and Shanghai in December!). The husband-half of the owners, Carlos Rodriguez, is standing on the far right of the picture, and his wife, Sylvia, is sitting just off to the right of him.
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What a great time, but I really suffered after that lunch, and dinner ended up
being ginger tea. :sad: Today I think I’ll be having Cipro. Yum!
Rona Y.

#33 Peter the eater

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 05:03 PM

Nice looking lechon. Did you get some skin?

I had something similar in Cuba a while back and it's the sweet crunchy skin that I remember most.
Peter Gamble aka "Peter the eater"

I just made a cornish game hen with chestnut stuffing. . .
Would you believe a pigeon stuffed with spam? . . .
Would you believe a rat filled with cough drops?

Moe Sizlack

#34 Domestic Goddess

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 05:09 PM

Rona, that stuffed tilapia reminds me of the grilled stuffed bangus (milkfish) wrapped in banana leaves that I always make. The stuffing is usually minced ginger with diced onions and tomatoes + salt and pepper. Aaaah, I really miss that now plus authentic calamansi lemons. Lemon juice just doesn't quite cut it.

Sorry to hear that you're under the weather. Maybe somebody can fix a soothing bowl of arroz caldo (chicken porridge rice) for you? The ginger in it can really help your upset tummy.

Edited by Domestic Goddess, 30 March 2009 - 05:09 PM.

Doddie aka Domestic Goddess

"Nobody loves pork more than a Filipino"

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The dark side... my own blog: A Box of Jalapenos

#35 prasantrin

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 05:10 PM

Day 9

I ended up having nothing for breakfast, and nothing for lunch. I curse you Peter Green!

But we had a long drive ahead of us. We were going out to S's farm for a visit, so we dropped by the pharmacy to get some Cipro for me to snack on. :wacko:

S's farm is only about 30 miles from Manila, but it seems like a world away. There's a swinery, a chicken farm, mango groves, etc. His primary business, however, is raising cocks for cock fighting. :sad:

Unfortunately, I didn't bring my camera along, but if anyone decides to go to the Philippines, I would suggest getting out of the city as quickly as possible, and spending as much time as possible in the countryside. It's like a completely different country.

On the way back, we stopped by Antipolo, a small town where cashews are grown. I've seen pictures of how cashews are harvested, and I really wanted to see a real cashew tree. But it was dark by now, and we couldn't find any cashews at all--not even at the market!

Dinner was at Max's. Jaymes may know it--it's a fried chicken joint that opened in 1945, and is now a chain. It's not fried chicken like KFC, but they just season chickens and fry them whole. I only had a little of the skin off my mom's chicken, and I had beef (with three little granules of ground beef in it) and cabbage soup. Max's seems to be a place for the up-and-comers to go out and have a "fancy meal" (a lot of graduation dinners were being held there that night), but I wouldn't suggest it unless there's absolutely nothing else around.

And now I'm all caught up! We'll see what today brings--hopefully a better stomach and therefore better food!
Rona Y.

#36 Domestic Goddess

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 05:12 PM

Oops I forgot, is the small fish that starts with a "D" dilis? Dilis is anchovy and is hard to find fresh. That's my parents' favorite cerviche fish.
Doddie aka Domestic Goddess

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eGFoodblog: Adobo and Fried Chicken in Korea

The dark side... my own blog: A Box of Jalapenos

#37 prasantrin

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 05:18 PM

Oops I forgot, is the small fish that starts with a "D" dilis? Dilis is anchovy and is hard to find fresh. That's my parents' favorite cerviche fish.

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Hi Doddie!

No, it's not dilis. We've been wracking our brains over it. It sounded like dalang or diwang or. . .
Rona Y.

#38 prasantrin

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 05:20 PM

Nice looking lechon. Did you get some skin?

I had something similar in Cuba a while back and it's the sweet crunchy skin that I remember most.

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Of course I had skin! Just a little, though. I didn't want to eat anything to rich, because I knew the ride back to Manila would be long.

You need to try a fresh Filipino lechon. I'm sure it will out-class any Cuban roast pig! :biggrin:
Rona Y.

#39 faine

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 06:22 PM

What an awesome food blog! I am a total ignoramus on Filipino food and this has been most helpful (complete with gorgeous photos.) Especially liking the looks of the bangus and that glorious looking lechon. Know any good Filipino cookbooks by chance?

#40 Peter the eater

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 06:25 PM

You need to try a fresh Filipino lechon.  I'm sure it will out-class any Cuban roast pig!  :biggrin:

You're probably right, but there's something special about devouring a communist pig.

Filipino lechon is world-famous. Would you say it's worthy of being the National Dish?
Peter Gamble aka "Peter the eater"

I just made a cornish game hen with chestnut stuffing. . .
Would you believe a pigeon stuffed with spam? . . .
Would you believe a rat filled with cough drops?

Moe Sizlack

#41 Domestic Goddess

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 09:41 PM

Oops I forgot, is the small fish that starts with a "D" dilis? Dilis is anchovy and is hard to find fresh. That's my parents' favorite cerviche fish.

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Hi Doddie!

No, it's not dilis. We've been wracking our brains over it. It sounded like dalang or diwang or. . .

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Rona,

I figured it out. You were served Dulong. Marketman blogged about this at Dulong Patties.
Doddie aka Domestic Goddess

"Nobody loves pork more than a Filipino"

eGFoodblog: Adobo and Fried Chicken in Korea

The dark side... my own blog: A Box of Jalapenos

#42 Pan

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Posted 30 March 2009 - 11:51 PM

This was the rest of the menu.[...]

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That whole meal looks delicious!

The kare kare vegetables were eggplant, green beans, and either spinach or kangkong (swamp cabbage?) or some other leafy green.  They’re covered with the sauce from the kare kare.  Unlike most vegetables in the Philippines, these were not overcooked at all. 
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But none of those vegetables look like kangkung to me. What I know as kangkung (aka kangkong - the old Malay spelling and the way the word is pronounced in Malaysia [or at least most of it], too) is usually called "water spinach" or "hollow vegetable" here. The Cantonese name for it is ong choy (I've also heard "kong choy").

#43 Domestic Goddess

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 01:35 AM

Pan/Rona - the leafy green veggie up there is Pechay or chinese white cabbage. The Philippine Pechay differs from other chinese cabbage from China and other countries since it is usually small and has bright green leaves with little on no veins on it. It is usually tasteless when harvested young but sometimes a bit bitter if it is a bit old.
Doddie aka Domestic Goddess

"Nobody loves pork more than a Filipino"

eGFoodblog: Adobo and Fried Chicken in Korea

The dark side... my own blog: A Box of Jalapenos

#44 prasantrin

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 06:05 PM

Doddie--I was just about to post the name! We were at Unimart (grocery store) yesterday and we found a jar of the fish in olive oil made by "Connie's Gourmet Kitchen" or something like that. It was relatively expensive--P180 for maybe 300mL?

Pan--I asked my mother and she said it was pechay, as Doddie said. Kare kare is usually served with banana blossoms, but no banana blossoms right now, I guess.

Faine--Filipino cookbooks are a difficult lot. Many of them were written by homecooks and suffer from poor editing/proofreading, so the recipes sometimes don't turn out, even if you follow the recipes exactly. My aunt was telling me that she just uses them as a guideline. That being said, she recommended a cookbook to me, but I've forgotten the name. I think it might be this one. I'm going to a bookstore today, and will do some research (and hopefully not walk out with too many books, because I'm only allowed 20kg!).

PtE--Every Filipino loves a good lechon (even people from Mindanao, the predominantly Muslim area!), but I'm not sure it could be considered the national dish. That was one of the difficulties mentioned on NR: Philippines--because the regions are so diverse, it's difficult to pin down a national dish. Personally, I'd go with adobo. And I haven't even had it, yet!

Before I forget, a much better write-up of my lunch on Sunday can be found on Our Awesome Planet. Really great pictures, too (if there are any discrepencies between what Anton wrote and what I wrote, you should believe Anton :smile:).

Edited by prasantrin, 31 March 2009 - 06:07 PM.

Rona Y.

#45 Domestic Goddess

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Posted 31 March 2009 - 06:37 PM

Rona - dulong is getting to be hard to find in the Philippines. Most water areas where dulong is harvested is getting too polluted or too populated with other fish introduced there. That's the reason why it is quite expensive.

Banana blossoms - that's what I really miss right now. I wish I could get a banana heart so I can make banana blossom salad (with coconut milk) and kare-kare.
Doddie aka Domestic Goddess

"Nobody loves pork more than a Filipino"

eGFoodblog: Adobo and Fried Chicken in Korea

The dark side... my own blog: A Box of Jalapenos

#46 prasantrin

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Posted 01 April 2009 - 05:19 PM

Day 10

I’d been limiting my food intake to test things out. Breakfast was pan de sal (used to be just a simple roll made with flour, yeast, and salt, but is now more like a sweet butter roll—I prefer the old-style) and Cipro. I was a little more adventurous for lunch, and I had tasteless stewed beef with Chinese cabbage. By dinner, I was really hungry!

Dinner tonight was with Mom’s friends S & H again. S’s cousin, T, and his wife also joined us. T was supposedly interested in my mother at one time, and when he first met me, his handshake was a little limp, but when he realized who I was, his grip tightened and his smile grew wider. It was funny (for me).

Quezon City Sports Club was another one of those members’ only places. It was not terribly posh, but it was a nice casual place to dine and the food was better than I had expected. Too bad I couldn’t eat much of it.

The others ordered pinakbet which is an Ilocano (province in the northern part of Luzon) dish with mixed vegetables (eggplant, green beans, okra, squash, bagoong (that condiment thing I showed in an earlier dish)) and shrimp. It usually has slices of pork in it, but in this case, it was topped with lechon kawali (fried lechon, as opposed to roasted, I think). My mother thought it was the best version she had tried, but later someone told her it wasn’t actually a very good example of the dish.
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They also had grilled liempo (pork belly with the skin). It’s the same type I had at my Tiay Tita’s, but marinated in different things. I asked my mother if she liked it, and she said, “Oh yeah.” She said usually it’s just marinated in calamansi, soy sauce, and garlic, but this version had a sweetness to it—maybe orange juice or honey or both.
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For dessert my mother had a mango crepe. It took forever, and we joked that they had sent the workers out to climb a tree to get the mangos. I tried a little, and thought the mango was not quite ripe enough, but I’d have ordered it again if I were to go back (with a healthy stomach). Mom enjoyed it. She said the crepe was really tender, and not tough like hers (few people can make crepes as tough as hers, though).
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What did I have? I ordered wonton soup, but was unceremoniously corrected. It’s “wan-TON soup,” said the waiter. It reminded me of when my sister corrected her 6th grade English teacher in Bacolod (“It’s ae-pple!” “No, it’s not. It’s a-pple!”). It turned out to be wonton mee. The soup itself was fine, but the wontons (excuse me, wan-TON) tasted funny. At first I thought the meat was spoiled, but I think maybe it just had more non-shrimp seafood in it than I was used to. No picture of the soup, but I do have a picture of the spelling! I wonder if you really are what you eat. . .
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Rona Y.

#47 prasantrin

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Posted 01 April 2009 - 05:23 PM

Day 11

I’m inching my way forward, and I had butter with my pan de sal today! How exciting! I also had some papaya, because I just couldn’t resist.

No pictures of lunch because it was unexciting. Another cousin picked us up and took us to Makati for lunch. I was supposed to visit his wife’s yoga shala (she teaches the style of yoga I do), but we ended up just having lunch—Italian today. I’m getting tired of having Filipino food at every meal, and just wanted something simple. We went to a restaurant called Italianni’s at Greenbelt 3 (or 4—Greenbelt is a large shopping complex in Makati—very nice place). It was OK, but I wouldn’t go out of my way for it again unless I could just have another mango shake. The mango used was perfectly ripe, and the shake (just ice and mango blended) was so cool and refreshing. Hopefully my stomach won’t argue with it later.

Dinner was more interesting. We went to S and H’s house to have a cooking lesson! My mother loves a Spanish-influenced dish called “callos”. It’s a tomato-based stew with sausage (real Spanish chorizo), pork, tendon (maybe), garbanzo beans, and she’s not sure what else. Too bad we got stuck in traffic, and missed the actual cooking part!

We had spaghetti with clam sauce (the clam sauce was from Costco), clam chowder (not from Costco, but Campbell’s), and the callos. All the American stuff was a little on the salty side, but it was fine.
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The callos was exactly what my mother wanted. H boils pork, pata (thigh of the pig), tripe, and sometimes tendon for a long time. Then she stir fries garlic, onions, and the meat plus chorizo bilbao (?). She adds the tomato sauce, some spices, and her secret ingredient (habanero sauce from Louisiana). I’m not a big fan of tripe, but I liked it enough. It was a little rich for my stomach. My mother really loved it, though, and she ate two or three servings, plus got a container to take back to Bacolod!
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H had ordered a special dessert for us, but it hadn’t arrived, so we settled for macapuno ice cream. Mmmmmm. . . I couldn’t help myself, and I ate half my bowl! I might be paying for it later, but I’m hoping not.

Finally, shortly before we left for home, our special dessert came! H gave us the entire box! Betty’s Sans Rival is famous in Manila, having been around since the 1950’s. Sans Rival is layers of cashew (or some other nut) meringue with buttercream, and it’s one of my favourite Filipino desserts! We took it home, then quickly cut it into pieces, wrapped them, and put them in the freezer. That way we both get to take some to our respective homes! (That's my shadow in the first picture :rolleyes:)
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We also got three tins of leche flan, but we insisted they take one, so we only took home two. I think my mother is going to take them back to Bacolod, though I’m not sure how she’s going to do it (since puddings over 100mL in size aren’t allowed in carry-ons). T’s wife (whom we had dinner with the previous night) owns a catering company and we had talked about leche flan at dinner, so she had them made for us. It looks so non-descript, and perhaps even yucky, but it’s not. You can’t see it, but there’s some beautiful caramelized sugar under there. That’s the best part! Aside from the rich creamy goodness of the flan, that is. Maybe I’ll sneak some for breakfast tomorrow, so you can have a better picture of it! The things I do for y’all!
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Rona Y.

#48 prasantrin

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Posted 02 April 2009 - 05:34 AM

Day 12

Another pictureless food day.

Today's only interesting adventure was lunch. We went to the echo store to look at their offerings. It's a store that specializes in Fair Trade goods, and also handicrafts made by disadvantaged women (including those in prison). Their prices are a little high by Philippine standards, but still very reasonable by Western standards, plus it supports a good cause. I ended up with some native chocolate, native coffee, and something else. . . but I can't remember what.

Then I met up with an old classmate while my mother and Tita Lita went off for lunch on their own. I mentioned earlier that I had lived in Bacolod when I was 10, and I went to school there. I had a miserable time, and after I left, A was the only classmate with whom I kept in touch. We lost touch more than 20 years, and only reconnected just before (literally) my trip here. Our meeting was so strange--I never thought I'd see her again, but yet it was completely comfortable.

We had Brazilian for lunch. It was one of those all-you-can eat places with meat on skewers. The meat was actually really good. It was much more flavourful than the same type of meal I had in BKK, and for a non-Filipino meal, it's the only place I would (so far) recommend.

After lunch A went back to work, and I went over to Market! Market! The actual mall is rather boring, but what's nice about Market! Market! is that there are kiosks representing areas from all over the Philippines, so you can buy food-products that are specialties of those area.

I just got some carabao cheese--a feta style and a fresh (mozzarella) style. I'll see how it is when I return to Japan. Just two more days here--time has flown so quickly!
Dinner at home, nothing interesting to report.
Rona Y.

#49 Peter Green

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Posted 02 April 2009 - 01:47 PM

You need to try a fresh Filipino lechon.  I'm sure it will out-class any Cuban roast pig!   :biggrin:

You're probably right, but there's something special about devouring a communist pig.

Filipino lechon is world-famous. Would you say it's worthy of being the National Dish?

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Now I feel bad about not eating any capitalist running dogs in South Korea! :sad:

#50 prasantrin

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Posted 05 April 2009 - 06:41 AM

Now I feel bad about not eating any capitalist running dogs in South Korea!   :sad:

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They eat dog in the Baguio area, too. I'm not sure of their political affiliations, though. :biggrin:

I'd have tried it had I been offered some (and probably would have enjoyed it more than I enjoyed that little tiny cricket). One of my mother's cousins is married to an Igorot (native from that area), so they eat dog relatively often.

I'm just organizing my pictures from my last couple of days, and I'll finish up my posts and be done! Be afraid, be very afraid, Peter!

Edited by prasantrin, 06 April 2009 - 03:27 AM.

Rona Y.

#51 Domestic Goddess

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Posted 05 April 2009 - 07:31 AM

Rona, I am looking forward to the upcoming posts and pics. My cousins and uncles also eat dog, as "pulutan" (pulutan means beer food or food you eat when drinking). They usually serve it as adobo or caldereta (tomato-based stew).

I've never tried it but I do relish Goat caldereta whenever I have a chance to eat it.
Doddie aka Domestic Goddess

"Nobody loves pork more than a Filipino"

eGFoodblog: Adobo and Fried Chicken in Korea

The dark side... my own blog: A Box of Jalapenos

#52 prasantrin

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Posted 06 April 2009 - 04:38 AM

Day 13

My second last day!

I was getting tired of Filipino food and my mother wanted to try something different, so we went to Bizu, a French place near where we were staying.

I started with the soup of the day, pumpkin. It was simple, but tasty.
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My mother had the osso buco. OMG this was good! The meat was so tender, and the sauce was perfectly seasoned. The potatoes were a little boxed-tasting, but I'm sure they weren't. The asparagus was just lightly cooked, so it was crisp.
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Then my croque monsieur came. I'm always wary of ordering cm anywhere except Burdigala Cafe, but the menu made it sound so good--it had meuniere! But I should have listened to my instincts. It was made with supermarket-type black forest ham and the bread was very Filipino (slightly sweet and too soft to stand up to the ham, sauce and cheese). My fries were good, though! I love Filipino potatoes!
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I also got two macarons to go. Mango on the left, butterscotch on the right. I didn't want to try their macarons because they looked a bit dry, but the waiter gave us one to try and it was really good (even though it was chocolate, and I don't even like chocolate macaron). The shells were fine, not coarse, and the amount of filling was perfectly balanced with the shell. The butterscotch one was really awesome. I'd have bought more, but the one I bought was the last one. It was filled with salted caramel--my favourite! I never got to try the mango one. :sad:
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Immediately after lunch, my mother went to mass (they have mass at almost every single mall in Manila!) and I went to Cafe Xocolat.
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It's known for their hot chocolate, most of which are french variations, but they also have native tsokolate. I ordered the native. It was probably my second favourite tsokolate--my favourite was the one from Choco-late de Batirol in Baguio. The little cookie was really good, too.
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After meeting up with my mother, we went to buy some goodies at a supermarket. I got dried mangos--lots of them! They won't last long, I'm sure! Then her cousin picked us up and we went to another mall/market-type place called Tiendesitas for more food shopping. Like at Market! Market!, they have stalls representing different areas in the Philippines, and they sell goods from those areas, but it's a rather sad mall, and they don't have too many stalls anymore. Oh well.

I came for tsokolate de tablea and some pastillas de leche in a jar! Pastillas de Leche is usually a candy, but you can also get a version similar to dulce de leche, except it's white and not as sticky as dulce de leche. I'm going to put mine in brownies or something. I haven't decided, yet.

Since we were there, my mom's cousin and his wife decided we should have merienda. We readily agreed. I had a mango shake (in the Philippines, a fruit shake is just fruit, simple syrup, and ice blended), and half my mother's suman with mango. Suman is just sweetened sticky rice. This was nice and warm, and the mango was perfectly ripe. It was my last mango during this trip. :sad:
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My mother's suman also came with tsokolate. One can never have too much tsokolate! Well, maybe you can, because this version wasn't that great. It wasn't bad, but it was too watery. I liked the cup though!
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My last dinner in the Philippines was horrible! For some reason, Filipinos have a tendency to believe anything "stateside" is good. I can understand why people who have had limited access to foreign goods might think so, but my great-aunt's husband was a diplomat based in Washington, DC for many years. It's not like she's never tried the stuff before, so shouldn't she know better?

We were served "American food" for dinner--quite an honour, it seems. What did we have? One of those chicken seasoning things in a packet that comes with a plastic bag, and you put everything in the plastic bag and bake it. It was so awful!

But at least I had bought some ensaimada for dessert! I wanted to do an ensaimada taste test, but for some reason, we didn't get to try many types. I bought two of the supposedly best commercial ensaimadas around--Mary Grace and Hizon's. YUCK!! They both tasted artificial, and there was no substance to the bread--it was like air. The cheese on the Hizon's (on the far right) tasted artificial, and the Mary Grace cheese (middle) was strangely sharp. I think it might have been Kraft Parmesan. On the far left is mamon, which is a type of sponge cake. It was from Hizon's, too, and it was also pretty bad. What a lousy end to a lousy meal! Talk about going out with a whimper!
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Rona Y.

#53 prasantrin

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Posted 06 April 2009 - 05:42 AM

I don't have much room left in ImageGullet, and am too poor to become a donor, so I'll put up as many pics as I can, but my picture days are coming to an end!

Day 14

My last day! After my disappointing dinner the night before, I was hoping to leave Manila on a positive note. It was Saturday, so we were going to drop by Salcedo Market on our way to the airport. We left my great-aunt's house bright and early (around 7:30), and after getting just a little lost, we found it!

Salcedo Market is a weekend market held only on Saturdays, and it's like an American or Canadian-style farmer's market, but even better because of the food!

I wanted to make sure to post a picture of one of my ensaimada taste test winners. This HUGE ensaimada (the equivalent to 3 or 4 regular-sized ones) was from the Pamangan stall and made by the Des Torres family. It was more like a new-style ensaimada--sweet and rich--so it wasn't exactly what I was looking for, but as a sweet bread, it was very very good. When I arrived home in Japan, I ended up eating half of it before going to bed. Then the next morning, I awoke looking forward to eating the other half, only to find that I had actually eaten 2/3 of it the night before! Poor me!
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In its moist and tender goodness. I couldn't believe it was still so moist the next day--I had expected it to dry out. And you can see the layers of the bread--yum!
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The Des Torres family ensaimada tied for first place. The one from Star Cafe in Baguio was the other winner. Star Cafe's was more like the traditional ensaimada I was looking for, and it probably would have won had it had real butter and more sugar. But the Des Torres one was very good. The SC one was only P10, though, and the DT one was a whopping P180!!! (or around that price)

Other stuff:

French stall selling crepes and galettes. I had a galette with gruyere. It was buttery cheesy goodness. My mother had a butter and sugar crepe, but now that I think about it, she didn't share any with me! :angry:
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The first lechon stall I came across. I think this must have been the most popular stall--it was only 8:30 when we arrived, and there was none left!
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The second lechon stall. Poor little baby has no butt!
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These people were selling Thai food, and it actually looked really good!
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Fish and stuff.
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Another French stall. This guy had all sorts of sweet and savoury goodies. Had I been staying longer, I'd have bought quite a bit, I'm sure. I think he mentioned most of the dishes were from Alsace, but I could be wrong.
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These are the famous Medina Family ensaimada. They were featured in an article in Saveur that featured Pampanga (the author is/was an eG member). I really wanted one for my taste test, but it was P195 and my carry-on bags were already stuffed.
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I bought a homemade spicy sausage. It was perfect. I miss non-Japanese sausages.
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Cotton candy!! I stopped to take a picture, but I wasn't going to buy any. It was only P20, though, so how could I resist! It was my favourite kind--not too poofy, but a little hard and more caramelized. It was so perfect I didn't need to use my patented cotton candy eating method.
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Duck innards and unfertilized eggs. I'm sure I could have done something interesting with these. Or at least the maid could have. . .
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They sell the ducks with the heads still on here. Poor ducky. I bet he'd have given some really crispy skin, though!
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I have so many more pictures, but that's all that will fit (I'm at 49.99MB and 100% of storage used!). I may upload the rest to Flickr one day. . . or not.

I mentioned before that I'd had bad experiences in the Philippines in the past. I'd never really been interested in the country since then, but I felt it necessary to return. The night before I left, my aunt (real aunt) called and asked if I'd ever recommend the Philippines to people, and I said, "Yes, definitely, but I'd tell them to get out of Manila as fast as possible."

Manila is great for food, but to get any of it, you'll have to sit in traffic for a minimum of half an hour, more likely more. And the city is like many other big cities--crowded, polluted, and dirty (I can't even count the number of men I saw peeing on the side of the street--they outnumbered the stray dogs). But once you go outside Manila, or any other city in the Philippines, you see a completely different country. It's so lush and the air is crisper (though not always cleaner), and you can get good food outside of Manila, too.

So yes, I'd recommend the Philippines as a destination. I had a great time, though being there with my mother and meeting people from her past made it even more meaningful for me. If you go, make sure you hire a car and driver, though. I'd not drive through Manila on my own, that's for sure!
Rona Y.

#54 Peter Green

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Posted 06 April 2009 - 08:19 AM

Victory is yours!

I think your comment is true for many of the South East Asian cities. While the major city will have the best selection of food and drink, it is always another world from the rest of the country.

Still, the pictures and descriptions are so good that I may someday get over my phobia of travel to Manila.

Now, I only have a few more weeks of vacation left.
:smile:

#55 sebastian wilde

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Posted 30 June 2010 - 01:01 PM

great photos prasantrin... i really miss the food in the Philippines. :sad: