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New Orleans 72hours


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#61 Daniel

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Posted 23 June 2008 - 08:06 AM

Hey thanks for your kind words.. I really appreciate the fact that so many people read this.. Anyone have any questions or whatever, I will try to answer.. New Orleans is so special to us and we are glad to not only share but, TO have this to look back on..

#62 JeAnneS

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Posted 30 June 2008 - 04:01 PM

Daniel;

Great reviews and pictures. My husband and I lived in NJ and worked in NYC for the better part of 12 years. We honeymooned in New Orleans in 2000 and apart from 2005, returned to this fantastic city every year. Last year we decided to make our fantasy a reality and we bought a little place in the Marigny in December and just moved here three weeks ago!! I am still pinching myself I can hardly believe it!! The weekend we closed on our house, our real estate agent took us to Parkway and I nearly died over the roast beef po boy. I had half to take home and savor the next meal along with a slab of their banana pudding.

Next trip I highly recommend Coop's on Decatur...it's nothing pretty but their beans and rice (with sausage natch) and Cajun Fried chicken are finger licking good.

Best wishes and hope you come back!

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#63 philadining

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Posted 11 July 2008 - 11:10 PM

So, we sit at the back counter at Cochon, and get chatting with the guys in the kitchen. Eventually, we end up discussing people that come in and eat prodigious amounts of food. The ultimate story is: "we had this couple from NY - they were here three times! I think they ate everything!"

I'm thinking, this sounds familiar...

Daniel, you and Miss A are legends.

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#64 philadining

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 12:19 PM

As I travel, I often ask myself, what would Daniel do? So when the possibility of a three-day weekend presented itself, I decided to do 72 hours in New Orleans: fly in thursday night, back out sunday evening.

I didn't retrace Daniel's footsteps exactly, but certainly took his report, and all of the wonderful posts giving advice, into account while wandering, quite pleasantly without a real schedule.

After a late flight in, the quickest/closest place seemed to be the Verti Marte, so we headed over to see what we could find to eat.

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When the guy t the counter asked what I wanted, I just said, "I don't know, what DO I want?" It was suggested that I have the ribs, the potatoes au gratin and broccoli.

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Awesome, really. Well at least the ribs and the potatoes. I don't think I've ever had ribs quite like this before, clearly cooked long and low in liquid, they were barely holding together, but had perfect tenderness and amazing flavor. The potatoes were buttery, cheesey, creamy, and utterly addictive, I couldn't stop eating them. The broccoli was, well it was broccoli from a steamtable with an average cheese sauce. Edible, but not a thrill.

The second recommendation from the counter was for Chicken, Mac and Cheese and we asked for the brussels sprouts.
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This was only OK. The chicken isn't really the kind that keeps in a case like that, it was probably lovely right after it was cooked. The Mac and cheese was really spaghetti in a creamy cheese sauce, which is fine, but we didn't love the texture. And I think I've just become convinced that roasting is the only way to cook brussels sprouts, these were OK, but didn't have much flavor beyond a boiled cabbage.

So it wasn't a complete success, but the ribs and potatoes were SO good that I was feeling really happy to be in New Orleans.

Edited by philadining, 15 July 2008 - 08:15 PM.


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#65 philadining

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 02:00 PM

Friday:

It seems inevitable, one must start the day with a stop at Cafe du Monde. Yep, it's touristy, it's crowded, it's formulaic, and it's totally delicious.
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I can't figure out why those beignets are so good, but they really are incredible.

After doing a bit of wandering around in what I'm pretty sure was 203 degree heat, we found ourselves up Esplanade, and within striking distance of Little Dizzy's. I stuck to my tactic of asking my server what to order, and I got an expected answer: Pot Roast. I don't think I ever would have thought of the pot roast.
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It was incomprehensibly good. I've never had any pot roast like this before. It was very moist and tender, with a deep flavor. Even the seemingly plain-old steamed vegetables had a lots of garlic playing off the sweetness of yellow carrots, red peppers, broccoli and beans. Potatoes were simple, but somehow exactly right.

My buddy was too obsessed with photographing up at the St Louis Cemetery #3 that he missed closing time, but I managed to order him some gumbo to go before they closed. It looked incredible, with big chunks of crab and andouille, and he said it was delicious. My shrimp allergy kept me from tasting it, the waitress was nice enough to warn me off of it, even though there was no shrimp in the description of it on the menu board.
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It took a lot more walking around to work off that lunch, but we finally felt like dinner around 9pm.

We managed to sneak into the last two seats at the kitchen bar at Cochon.

We ordered entirely too much food, but I'm glad we did, because every bit of it was just spectacular. Seriously, this was one of the best meals of my life, and I've been lucky enough to have a few good ones...

Fried Boudin
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Crispy outside with an earthy pork and rice filling: just the right balance of crunch and big flavor.

Crawfish Pie
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This had a nice stewy filling inside the light flaky crust, like an etoufée empanada.

Pork cheeks
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Words cannot describe how sensually pleasing this dish is. Slow-cooking broke down the collagen in the cheeks, but a hint of that richness remained, amplifying the intensity of the pork. The falling-apart texture, the vivid meatiness, the tang of the mustard, all combined onto something that had me just shaking my head in amazement.

I think if you order the cheeks willingly, the chef figures you might be receptive to some other parts of the pig, so he was nice enough to send out a plate of house-made Head-Cheese.
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This was very elegant charcuterie, it had an unexpected lightness, just perfect on a little toast with a slice of pickle and a dab of mustard.

Heirloom Tomato Salad with Pork Tongue
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Either one of these elements would have been wonderful on its own, but together they made for the best summer salad ever conceived-of. The tomatoes tasted like tomatoes-squared, the tongue like subtle bacon.

Pork and Hen Gumbo
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Incredible dark-roux funk, creamy texture, nuggets of pork and chicken, awesome.

Their signature dish: Louisiana Cochon, with Peaches, Turnips, Cabbage and Cracklings.
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This one nearly made my head explode. The caramelization from a long, slow roast mingled with the sweetness of summer peaches. This kind of dish is why the word "sublime" was coined.

A special of Pork Loin with mushroom gravy
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I couldn't imagine anything competing with the Cochon, but this dish made a valiant effort, playing the other side of the coin with a dark, earthy, salty sauce that made a nice foil for the other pork's sweetness.

Smothered Greens
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I really wish I'd had more room to eat more of these, because they were the best greens I've ever had: tender but not mushy, sweet but not candied, brightly acidic and porky.

It was totally insane to order dessert, but we felt like a little dose of sweetness to finish things off, so went with a lemon buttermilk pie, which was mercifully airy and light. Oh and the chef sent out some moonshine, which somehow went really well with the pie, and brought the meal to a perfect end.

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They were afraid that they'd have to roll us out of there in wheelbarrows, but we managed to make it out under our own power, although just barely.

If they'd been open for lunch on saturday I would have been back there, and I was seriously contemplating returning on saturday night. I totally understand why Daniel and Miss A were back multiple times.

Everyone was super-nice, and sitting at the kitchen counter was great fun. We traded stories with the chefs and cooks, which is when one of them started telling of this one wild couple from New York...

This was a very fine meal. The restaurant is casual and friendly, but they're cooking at a very high level. I'm seriously considering another trip mainly to return here.

OK, so at this point, I suspect Daniel would have gone out and pounded a few hand-grenade cocktails, but I did learn something from his travelogue and skipped that part and went to bed. I wanted to be sharp for more eating on saturday.

Edited by philadining, 15 July 2008 - 07:30 PM.


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#66 docsconz

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 05:45 PM

If I wasn't sold on it before (and I was), this latest account of Cochon makes it absolutely certain that I have to hit Cochon with my son when we visit NOLA to check out Tulane next month! Don't expect us to eat as much as these reporters did, though!
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#67 philadining

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 07:26 PM

Saturday:

Still in a bit of a food coma from friday night, we skipped breakfast and moved ahead to lunch. We found ourselves hungry around noon a bit uptown, and Parasol was nearby.


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Boudin Balls are always a welcome way to start the day...

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as are Gravy Fries. OK the boudin balls weren't quite as rocking as the ones the night before at Cochon, but that's a high bar to set. These were still pretty good, if maybe featuring a bit too much breading compared to filling. The fries were fantastic, due primarily to the excellent gravy, but also to the carefully-made, promptly-delivered fried potatoes.

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They're famous for their Roast Beef Po Boy, and I can see why. It's sloppy, full of drippy, wet roast beef, but worth the inevitable drips on the shirt. I'm sure I'm going to start a regional war here, but I'd really love to have this sandwich on a Sarcone's roll from south Philly...

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The Catfish Po Boy was quite good too, the freshly-fried fish remaining crispy beneath the dressing.

The place itself is a bit rough around the edges, but we liked it a lot. One orders food at a window in an upper room, drinks (including a full bar) in the lower bar area. Seating is at long tables in the upper room, which works out fine, even leading to some nice folks handing off their surplus cheese fries and onion rings to us when they finished.

Parasol
2533 Constance St (at third, one block south of Magazine)
It does not seem like the kind of place that would have a web site, but it's a crazy world: www.parasols.com


After a Po Boy, when it's a bazillion degrees out, what's required? A Sno Bliz, of course.

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On the right is my combo: Cream of Peach and Lemonade. Apparently this was a shocking juxtaposition, because they were completely amazed that I wanted those two flavors together, and insisted that I sample it immediately and tell them how it was. In fact it was a pretty good combo, although the lemonade flavor bullied the more subtle peach a bit, so it was important to have some peach first, then some lemonade, then pause, then some more peach, repeat...

In the middle is a strawberry-lemonade combo, which was apparently not quite as avant-garde, or maybe they were still reeling from the first order, because they didn't comment on that one. The little one on the left is a coconut flavor on its own.

As for the Sno Bliz, I'd have to say that it is indeed worth all the fuss. On one hand it's just shaved ice, and they're pretty slow, and the store is ridiculously hot. On the other hand, there's something special about the texture of the ice, surely due to the clunky-looking machine grinding away at large blocks of ice, each chunk fed into the blades by a hand-held lever. Additionally, everybody is super nice, and they have a vast array of unusual flavors. I'd meant to get something with condensed milk, but became overwhelmed by choices, panicked and forgot. The one I got was quite enjoyable, I'd go back out there, even though it was a bit of a haul.

We headed back into the quarter with the idea of grabbing a muffaletta, just to have experienced the prototype. But alas, after trudging down to the Central Grocery, we find that they're sold out, and not making any more. Oh well, next time.

Along the way, we stumble across a really fun wedding party, emerging from St Louis Cathedral on Jackson square, and heading up the street, a jazz band in the lead. I can't say that I've ever seen this before: a a bride and groom strutting up the street with parasols, the assembled friends and family waving white handkerchiefs behind them. Very charming.
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We decided we could overcome the bitter disappointment of being denied a muffaletta with the help of booze. Luckily we were in the right place for this. We grabbed a quick beer at Coop's place, then headed over to Napolean House to indulge in a Pimm's Cup or two.
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Very refreshing, and the bar is pretty cool.

But what we're really looking for is a Mint Julep. And not just any Mint Julep, we want THE mint Julep, mixed by Chris McMillan. Video

Chris is no longer at the Library Lounge, he's now ensconced at the Pere Marquette Renaissance Hotel at 817 Common. The lobby bar there seems a little incongruously modern for Chris's vibe, but wherever he is mixing, I'm happy to follow to go get a drink he makes. The Julep he makes is indeed as amazing as its reputation. I couldn't help thinking that I was really having a mint and bourbon Sno Bliz, but that silver cup, the care and precision of Chris's technique, made for a transcendent cocktail, one that got better and better as it went along.

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(The bottom-lit bar made for tricky photography, but it was a lovely drink in person! )

We also sampled Chris's take on the Pimm's Cup, very different from the Napolean House version, employing a variety of fresh fruits, but I think we liked it even better.
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From there, we wandered a few yards over to the bar at Mila, looking to sample a few tastes of the work of chefs Slade Rushing and Allison Vines-Rushing. (The lighting was REALLY not conducive to photography, and I just refuse to use flash in dim public places, so apologies in advance, most if the photos aren't worth looking at. )

We had a great time talking food with the bartender, and had a chance to try a few of the appetizers from the restaurant.

We really loved the "Deconstructed Oysters Rockefeller."
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This was a pleasingly light, delicate revision, offering-up all the flavors of the classic, but in a way that let each element shine.

We also quite liked the Tian of Crab, which was cool and vibrant and summery. We also had the Pan-Roasted Sweetbreads with Creamy Truffle Grits. There was nothing at all wrong with this dish, everything was good quality and well made, yet all three of us found it a little bland. I think it might be a personal thing for me: several times I've had sweetbreads on polenta or risotto, or some other similarly creamy foundation, and it's just not my favorite combination. The sweetbreads are creamy enough in texture, I'd rather have a contrast. That said, we ate it, and liked it.

I was very excited about the Barbecue Lobster. I can't eat shrimp, and was even taken to Pascale's Manale a few years back, forced to observe, and smell, what seemed to be a delicious dish. So this version, updating that classic dish with lobster sounded perfect. And again, not bad at all, it featured very good lobster, but the sauce was a touch too elegant, not conveying that spicy garlic punch that distinguishes the dish.

Even with our mixed reactions, I'd have dinner at Mila any time, there were enough indications in that small sample that there's some serious cooking going on.

But we were feeling like moving, so we agreed to reconvene at Herbsaint.

Sadly I somehow walked right by it, and ended up FAR down St Charles before I realized I was going the wrong direction. (The really embarrassing part was that I had a GPS thingy with me, but it just wouldn't lock onto the satellites. Are you locals jamming the signals to mess with the tourists?) By the time I got back to where I needed to be, my dining partners had already ordered some food at the bar. They're such nice people that they saved some tastes for me, but the plates weren't too photogenic at that point, so descriptions will have to suffice.

Lamb ribs were intensely flavorful, and spiced just right. Duck prosciutto was silky and tender, with a vivid taste. A Pork Gumbo was full-bodied and rich. The Duck Leg Confit was meltingly tender, with just the right level of salt. And I could eat the dirty rice underneath it all day. I need to go back there just for an order of Dirty Rice. All of it was just fantastic, I was tempted to order another round of everything, or whatever else the kitchen felt like making. But we were thinking of moving on, so we held to dessert, which I managed to photograph before we snarfed it down.

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Green Tomato Pie, with Cream Cheese Ice Cream. This was like a buffed-up Hubig's pie, with sweet tomato inside an airy glazed pastry. I loved it.

The bar at Herbsaint also made my favorite Sazeracs of my visit, I suppose that's appropriate...

Next visit, the Herbsaint/Cochon folks are probably getting all my money...

But we were on the move. I probably would have been interested in eating more, but I was surprised to discover that there's not a ton of late-night eating options, even on a saturday night. Sure there are a few places that will give you food, but real dining destinations? Please let us know if there's someplace we should go after 11 or midnight, we'll be back...

Drinking and music can distract us from any worries about whether we were missing another dining opportunity, so we headed out to Frenchmen Street, and d.b.a.

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That's a really cool bar, with just about any libation you can imagine, available at a reasonable price. It's a little loud when the band is blowing, but hey, it's a happening bar. Things are a little quieter across the street at the Spotted Cat, although the band is no less hot. (I hope that sax player got that strap untangled from his face by the time he had to pack up...) But it was packed in pretty tightly, so we just listened from the street a bit. I used to be a little cynical about the walking around with drinks thing, but I really love it. I'm afraid I'm going to get arrested back home because I won't be able to resist walking out of bars with a cocktail. I'll risk it.

After a few rye whiskeys, I had to call it a night, and get ready for one last day in the city...

Edited by philadining, 16 July 2008 - 09:20 AM.


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#68 philadining

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 07:29 PM

If I wasn't sold on it before (and I was), this latest account of Cochon makes it absolutely certain that I have to hit Cochon with my son when we visit NOLA to check out Tulane next month! Don't expect us to eat as much as these reporters did, though!

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Oh come on Doc, you guys can do it!! Seriously, which of those dishes are you NOT going to order??!

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#69 philadining

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Posted 15 July 2008 - 08:13 PM

After sleeping off those cocktails from the night before, we were finally ready for one last taste of New Orleans, before having to head back home. It really was down to a coin-flip - whether to do something simple and funky, or to just throw the rest of our money at an iconic experience.

It's tails. We head to Brennan's.

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Turtle Soup. Fantastic. Really, it's balanced, complex, with great texture and flavor. Couldn't be better.

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Seafood Gumbo. My friend likes it a lot.

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Grillades and Grits. It looks a bit like a plate of something at a diner, but underneath that Creole sauce are three of the tenderest, most delicate veal cutlets I've ever had the pleasure of tasting. The grits are creamy, buttery, just the right compliment to the tangy sauce. It's a great dish, buffed-up a bit from its origins I'm sure, but still delivering that primal pleasure.

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Eggs Nouvelle Orleans. Poached Eggs, lump crabmeat, Brandy-cream sauce. This is rather blah. There's a ton of good crab, but the sauce is sparse and not that great. Kind of a disappointment.

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Bread Pudding. It's impossibly light. I'm going to guess it's made from croissants, but whatever it is, it has a wonderful airy texture, while still being sweet and creamy and decadent. I loved it.

And what, you think we're going to do breakfast at Brennan's without Bananas Foster? Are you nuts?

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It's a classic, it's a cliché, it's one of the greatest things to eat on the planet.

All in all, mostly a very good meal. Service was very good, but not quite as polished as I was expecting. And we were stuck in a side room, making for not quite as nice of an atmosphere as we'd have gotten in a room overlooking the courtyard. Still, a very elegant, pleasant way to spend a sunday afternoon.

Was it worth the over $100 per person? I really don't think so, yet I'm perversely glad to have done it. Once. But I think I am going to dream of those grillades and grits...

Heading back to the hotel, we can't resist one last drink, this time at the Carousel Bar in the Hotel Monteleone.

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The carousel is full, but we get to watch, which is almost as much fun...

Then, off to the airport, and back to reality.

We really had a wonderful time, thanks to everyone who posted in response to Daniel's original query, it was very helpful to us too.

I can't wait to get back, and hit the other 3,285 places I'm dying to try. Or to just camp out at Cochon.

Edited by philadining, 16 July 2008 - 09:08 AM.


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#70 PopsicleToze

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Posted 16 July 2008 - 07:34 AM

You definitely know how to live. And Brennan's was worth it -- once. You're right on the money.

I'll be there tomorrow nighat at Cochon's. Can't wait. But I'm having the fried rabbit's liver :rolleyes:

Oh, and, of course, some head cheese :raz:

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#71 Daniel

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Posted 22 August 2008 - 08:10 AM

Wow phila I am just seeing this thread now.. What wonderful photos.. Looks like you had a great time.. I need to get back there quickly..

#72 Daniel

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Posted 22 August 2008 - 08:11 AM

So, we sit at the back counter at Cochon, and get chatting with the guys in the kitchen. Eventually,  we end up discussing people that come in and eat prodigious amounts of food.  The ultimate story is: "we had this couple from NY  -  they were here three times! I think they ate everything!"

I'm thinking, this sounds familiar...

Daniel, you and Miss A are legends.

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Haha..

#73 mattohara

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Posted 29 September 2008 - 05:24 PM

I only have 48 hours! I'm headed down for a work trip and decided to stay an extra day and a half.

Here's my plan of attack:
etouffe, jambalaya, gumbo, at least two types of po'boy, andouille, blood sausage, muffaletta
Cochon (the restaurant)
Sazeracs, Pimm's Cups (the gf loves them), Mint Juleps

and what i have available and best guesses:
Monday the 6th:
Dinner: Herbsaint
Cocktails: Bourbon House (and oysters)

Tuesday:
Breakfast: Brennan's
Lunch: Central Market (Muffaletta)
2nd Lunch: Pere Marquette Renaissance Hotel (Mint Julep)
Dinner: Cochon
Cocktails: Carousel Bar

Wednesday:
Breakfast: Antoine's
Lunch: Parasol (Gumbo and Po'Boys)
2nd Lunch: Napoleon House (Pimm's Cups)


I've created a Google Map and made it public. Anyone can add on to it I think.
mattohara New Orleans map on Google

I'm sure these all could move around depending on what's closer to what. I'm still looking for a good place to get blood sausage and good old fashioned street food. Are there carts or what? Thanks to all who have posted, Daniel and philadining especially, and thanks in advance for all help offered. Anything I'm missing? Still looking for that etouffe...

Edited by mattohara, 29 September 2008 - 05:27 PM.

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#74 docsconz

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Posted 29 September 2008 - 05:50 PM

I used this topic as inspiration for my own quick trip to NOLA with my son this past August. I see that you are planning a mint julep during a second lunch at the Pere Marquette. I would make sure that Chris McMillan will be there at the time you are thinking. That is not to say that no body else there would be able to make a good one. They probably could. It is just that Chris, in addition to being a damn good mixologist, also happens to be one of the finest barkeeps around. It would be worth sitting at his bar even without the cocktails just to absorb his knowledge, wit and banter.

Another distinctive new Orleans element that you shouldn't miss is Hansen's Sno-Bliz if they are still open for the season.

Your itinerary looks pretty good to me.
John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

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#75 mattohara

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Posted 29 September 2008 - 06:03 PM

Thanks doc, the point of the mint julep was to get McMillan's. I'll remember to check up on that! and yes Hansen's is on the map. I grew up in York, PA though and my first job was at the Snow Palace. It's another shaved ice place with toppings and hundreds of flavors. I used to run a machine like that. But if it's hot and we have the time we'll definitely head in that direction!

I forgot to mention that we're staying at one of the two Omni hotels in town. My gf works at the Omni here in Philadelphia so we got a killer hookup there. Also it's pretty centrally located!
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#76 chickenfriedgourmet

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Posted 29 September 2008 - 07:12 PM

Please please please got to Cochon, MILA if you have time and try Crabby Jacks Duck PoBoy :)

#77 MikeHartnett

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Posted 29 September 2008 - 08:54 PM

yes Hansen's is on the map.  I grew up in York, PA though and my first job was at the Snow Palace.  It's another shaved ice place with toppings and hundreds of flavors.  I used to run a machine like that.  But if it's hot and we have the time we'll definitely head in that direction!

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I initially was going to tell you that Hansen's is only open May through August, but upon double checking, it appears that they've extended their season and are still open. Good luck for you!



...and for me... :biggrin:

#78 philadining

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Posted 29 September 2008 - 09:46 PM

Matt, that looks like a pretty awesome itinerary. The only things I'd suggest would be:

1) like doc said, make sure Chris McMillan is at the bar at the Pere Marquette when you go. It's really worth reorganizing things to be sure to have him make you a drink. The Mint Julep is a thing of rare beauty, and highly recommended, but for your second one, have him make whatever he wants... It's indeed possible that someone else at the bar could make a credible Mint Julep, but I doubt Chris leaves that ice hammer around, and I suspect there's magic in that hammer...

2) If Miss K is into the Pimms Cup, don't miss the Napolean House, but also ask Chris to make one. Totally different drink, but at least as good, maybe better.

3 ) If you're on a Sazerac hunt, you might want to go to Tujack's, just for the sake of honoring the tradition. The one I got there actually wasn't very good, but I liked standing at the bar and holding it.

4) Get at Vieux Carré at the Carousel Bar.

5) Even though I actually did enjoy the experience, I'm still kind of mixed about breakfast at Brennan's. It's a TON of money, and while I liked everything I had, I still wonder whether it was worth it, both in terms of actual expenditure, and in terms of what else I could have had for that meal.

6) We totally dug Parasol, but there are other great Po Boy shops around, so you might want to let geography dictate whether you end up there, or Parkway, Liuzza's, Domilise's, Mother's, Casamento's, etc. Probably worth researching what the house specialty is, or just ask once you get there.

5) At Herbsaint, get something served on dirty rice, or order it as a side. They also make a really nice Sazerac.

6) At Cochon, order everything, or, as close to it as you can manage. I really liked sitting at the kitchen counter and chatting with the chefs.

7) If I were visiting tomorrow, I'd probably go to both Herbsaint and Cochon, but they are owned by the same folks, so you might want to diversify a little!

8) I don't know what it is about Hansen's, I mean, it's just shaved ice... but I too recommend going there... don't forget to get condensed milk as an extra topping.

9) Go to Cafe du Monde. Yeah, it's touristy, yeah it's just donuts and café au lait, but it's pretty great. And open 24 hours, so you don't really have a good excuse.

Have a blast, we expect a full report!

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#79 PopsicleToze

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Posted 30 September 2008 - 06:48 AM

I only have 48 hours!  I'm headed down for a work trip and decided to stay an extra day and a half.

Here's my plan of attack:
etouffe, jambalaya, gumbo, at least two types of po'boy, andouille, blood sausage, muffaletta

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You'll have a lot of fun, and the weather is perfect.

Re the blood sausage, I think you mean boudin, which is blood sausage in other parts, but it's a rice dressing made with picnic shoulder, pork liver, onions, etc. It's extremely good, but it's not blood sausage. I don't recall ever seeing real blood sausage in New Orleans, but I never looked for it either.

Have a great time!

#80 mattohara

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Posted 30 September 2008 - 07:30 AM

Yes, thanks PopsicleToze! I'd like to find a place to get straight unadulterated boudin. Thanks phila, some of your recs match perfectly with katie's. :D
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#81 HungryC

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Posted 30 September 2008 - 08:36 AM

I don't know of a source for boudin rouge (aka boudin noir) in New Orleans, but Bourgeois' Meat Market in Thibodaux makes it on a regular basis.
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#82 RAHiggins1

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Posted 30 September 2008 - 02:00 PM

I don't think I saw anyone mention "Lucky Dog", how can you go to the quarter and not hit up the local dog vendor?
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#83 Mayhaw Man

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Posted 30 September 2008 - 09:28 PM

Chris does not work lunch as the hotel bar is only open in the evenings, if I am not mistaken. Just call the front desk at the Pere Marquette. They should be able to run down the info for you.
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#84 docsconz

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Posted 30 September 2008 - 09:37 PM

Chris does not work lunch as the hotel bar is only open in the evenings, if I am not mistaken. Just call the front desk at the Pere Marquette. They should be able to run down the info for you.

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I believe that he is generally there by 5 or 6PM.
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#85 JAZ

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Posted 30 September 2008 - 09:46 PM

Tuesday:
Breakfast: Brennan's
Lunch: Central Market (Muffaletta)
2nd Lunch: Pere Marquette Renaissance Hotel (Mint Julep)
Dinner: Cochon
Cocktails: Carousel Bar

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While I liked Cochon, I think it's not as good as Herbsaint (which you also have planned, right?). Since you want to go to the Pere Marquette for a julep, why not go before dinner and eat at Mila? It'll save a lot of travel, as well. And if Chris is at the bar, you'll have better drinks there than at Carousel, which is fun, but doesn't have great cocktails.

#86 docsconz

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Posted 30 September 2008 - 09:56 PM


Tuesday:
Breakfast: Brennan's
Lunch: Central Market (Muffaletta)
2nd Lunch: Pere Marquette Renaissance Hotel (Mint Julep)
Dinner: Cochon
Cocktails: Carousel Bar

View Post


While I liked Cochon, I think it's not as good as Herbsaint (which you also have planned, right?). Since you want to go to the Pere Marquette for a julep, why not go before dinner and eat at Mila? It'll save a lot of travel, as well. And if Chris is at the bar, you'll have better drinks there than at Carousel, which is fun, but doesn't have great cocktails.

View Post


I liked Cochon a lot, but Mila is a rare bird, a truly modern restaurant with a strong sense of terroir. I think Janet's recommendation is a good one. If you prefer the more rustic, you can always do Cochon over Herbsaint. BTW, Cochon has some pretty good cocktails too. The bottom line, is that there is so much good food in New Orleans that it is hard to go wrong within the parameters that you have set.
John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

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#87 KatieLoeb

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Posted 30 September 2008 - 10:43 PM

Thanks phila, some of your recs match perfectly with katie's. :D


Clearly, we've compared notes. But next time we're going to manage to be there at the same time. It'll be epic when that finally happens. :wink:

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#88 MikeHartnett

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Posted 01 October 2008 - 06:56 AM

I liked Cochon a lot, but Mila is a rare bird, a truly modern restaurant with a strong sense of terroir. I think Janet's recommendation is a good one. If you prefer the more rustic, you can always do Cochon over Herbsaint. BTW, Cochon has some pretty good cocktails too. The bottom line, is that there is so much good food in New Orleans that it is hard to go wrong within the parameters that you have set.

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I completely agree. MiLa is fantastic. While Cochon and Herbsaint are very good, MiLa takes the cake for me.

#89 mattohara

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Posted 04 October 2008 - 05:42 PM

Itinerary updated by recommendations, location and business hours/McMillan hours:

monday
spa day for karen/work stuff for me
lunch for karen? (i'll be at the work thing, hope they feed me)
pimms cup at napoleon house, vacation begins!
mila for apps (no chris on mondays)
vieux carre at carousel bar
jacques-imo for dinner (nobody has mentioned this place, why?)

tuesday
cafe du monde for brekkie
market for muffaletta (for to snack on by the pool)
massage!
mother's po'boy for lunch
pool time!
mint julep at pere marquette (chris!)
cochon for dinner
sazerac at herbsaint

wednesday
breakfast at brennan's (bananas foster)
august for lunch
hansen's!
airport by 3:30PM

so i just have the couple of questions bolded above. and if anybody could point me to a good site that shows local events, points of interest and whatnot that would be cool too. any glaring mistakes here? i thought since we're focusing more on the food here than the tourist experience i could skip the commander's palace, antoine's, galatoire's stuff, but i had to go for the bananas foster breakfast!

::edit::
thanks everybody for experience, recommendations and warnings! if anybody wants to meet out for a drink just holler!

Edited by mattohara, 04 October 2008 - 05:45 PM.

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#90 Holly Moore

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Posted 04 October 2008 - 05:57 PM

One observation / suggestion. Move Cafe du Monde up one time slot. Yes it is fine for breakfast, but my fondest memories are ending the night at Cafe du Monde.
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