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Int'l Hotel Motel Restaurant Show


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#31 ngatti

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Posted 06 November 2002 - 07:30 PM

Since we are tearing down to the ground and rebuilding from scratch (with Three Kitchens!), I'll have much to look at (everything). I've planted the Bonnet seed and am carefully watering it. We'll see if it grows

Several friends and aquaintances will be competing at the salon (not pastry). I no longer compete. I've taken Blue Ribbons in two categories and it took me a few years to get there. No mas all nighters the night before the Salon (and after service too!). Although I no longer compete, I love the enthusiam of the younger chef/cooks and students who do. Great sacrifice is made by those who participate. I feel I pay respect by walking through the Salon and looking at their work.

Nick

#32 Brad S

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Posted 06 November 2002 - 07:48 PM

I was supposed to be in Utah for a conference but it was postponed until January.

So i'm planning on attending Monday.

Nick and Suvir I would love to somehow hook up with you guys.


I look forward to the culinary competition, it's always a lot of fun.

Although I haven't met anyone competing from egullet, I wish you all luck and succees.
Turnip Greens are Better than Nothing. Ask the people who have tried both.

#33 ngatti

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Posted 06 November 2002 - 07:53 PM

I'll be at the Heinekin Booth at about 11:00. Blue Blazer, Regimental Striped tie (Hey, I work at a private club). We can go bother Klc.

Nick :biggrin:

#34 Brad S

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Posted 06 November 2002 - 08:04 PM

Not sure yet what i'll be wearing, but would love to throw back a cold one with you and others
Turnip Greens are Better than Nothing. Ask the people who have tried both.

#35 Suzanne F

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Posted 06 November 2002 - 08:17 PM

At least I know what you look like, CC. We'll embarrass ourselves together, going up to people and saying, Excuse me, are you from egullet? :biggrin:

#36 Suvir Saran

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Posted 06 November 2002 - 09:55 PM

At least I know what you look like, CC.  We'll embarrass ourselves together, going up to people and saying, Excuse me, are you from egullet?  :biggrin:

Maybe you could lead CC to me Suzanne. Would love to see you both.

#37 Michael Laiskonis

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Posted 06 November 2002 - 10:52 PM

Some of the dishes I've heard about for Monday's demo are pretty interesting--I'll let the pastry chefs involved reveal the final versions ahead of time if they so choose.  You know how chefs are--things can change right up until the last moment.  

Uh oh. Somehow Steve has read my mind. I think I'm going with my plan B...

Was initially going to play with spaghetti squash, but the response to my recent sweet potato sorbet has been favorable. Will pair it with a warm, spiced chocolate "emulsion", milk jam, maple, hazelnut biscuit, and a touch of Maldon sea salt. Maybe.

At least I know where I'll be eating every night next week!
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#38 Rosie

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Posted 07 November 2002 - 09:38 AM

As of now I expect to be there on Monday. I will be wearing clothes and my badge says Food Bytes. :smile:
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#39 Suvir Saran

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Posted 07 November 2002 - 01:54 PM

As of now I expect to be there on Monday. I will be wearing clothes and  my badge says Food Bytes.  :smile:

Is it clothing optional? :wink:

#40 Bux

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Posted 07 November 2002 - 02:25 PM

Mrs B. and I expect to attend as many of the demos as we can. I haven't had time to check the schedules. I believe they are on Saturday and Monday. I look a lot like my avatar. You know, kinda square, but with a beard. I haven't selected my clothing yet, but maybe corduroy slacks. I've been wearing them more often since that cabbie in Paris said he thought I must be professor or artist because of my "velour" pants. If there's one thing the French know, it's surface. :biggrin:
Robert Buxbaum
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#41 Suvir Saran

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Posted 07 November 2002 - 02:29 PM

If there's one thing the French know, it's surface.  :biggrin:

And pain au chocolat. :smile:

#42 Suzanne F

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Posted 09 November 2002 - 03:51 PM

MEETING PLACE WARNING

There is NO Heineken booth at this show. The only large brewery booth is Anheuser-Busch, #1511 on the upper level -- right by one of the entrances. Just thought people should know, so no one wastes too much time looking.

#43 ngatti

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Posted 09 November 2002 - 04:12 PM

Thanks Suzanne, Nice Catch. Wha happened? There's *always* a Heinekin booth. :wink:

Well, I'll be hangin' about the demonstration kitchen. I assume that will still be in the rear.

Nick

#44 Bux

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Posted 09 November 2002 - 04:20 PM

A few of us managed to meet without the aid of a Heineken booth. Most of the people I met gathered after the first demo of the day and Suzanne was among the group. Don't worry about her spending all her time looking for the Heineken booth. I missed Nick and I assume the Caped Chef, but since I didn't know what he was wearing, I can't be sure he just wasn't avoiding me.

I really enjoyed the demos for the tastings as well as for the tips, personalities and entertainment. I probably won't make it back tomorrow, but expect to be there on Monday when Michael (mlpc), Colleen (chefette) and Patrice (Patrice) will be feeding, instructing and entertaining those who get seats at the demo.
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#45 cabrales

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Posted 09 November 2002 - 06:25 PM

I almost forgot about the Blue Hill exception to my self-imposed non-posting. The BH dish demonstrated by both Dan and Mike was a pain perdu dessert.

The brioche bread from Tom Cat Bakery was cut, using molds, into circular pieces that had a hole further cut in the middle (like a donut, but without "puff" effect). After dipping of the pain perdu into a mixture consisting of milk, vanilla beans, cinnamon, all spice (referring to a spice mixture utilized by BH that includes cardamom), sugar and egg, the pieces of pain perdu were set forth on a baking tray. An apple compote (currently consisting of four different apple varieties purchased from the Union Square Greenmarket) had separately been made, with seasoning based on vanilla beans, orange and lemon zest, raisins and butter. The apples were diced, and marinated in this mixture. Dan noted that the marked sweetness of apple pie was not the target; a measure of acidity added flavor complexity to the apples. Having several different types of apples also allows sweetness to be adjusted. Dan then observed that BH considers two factors significant in developing desserts: (1) seasonality of produce, and (2) ease of assembly when the space in the BH kitchen for dessert is very limited. The pain perdu dessert is easy to assemble because the apple compote and the below-described almond creme can be made a week in advance.

On top of the pain perdu, there was spread almond creme before baking. The almond creme was composed of sugar, butter, almond flour, eggs, flour and rum. When the baking is completed, the final touch is to add pain perdu ice cream (which Dan noted was intended to have a gingerbread connotation).

The pain perdu itself, leaving aside the ice cream, was good-minus (this is not a negative comment, given the non-ordinary-kitchen conditions under which the chefs were operating). There was a bit too much spicing for my subjective tastes, but I have never sampled a pain perdu that I have considered beyond good. The almond creme was not separately discernible, but aided the formation of a crustiness on top of the pain perdu. I considered the ice cream a bit too soft when served, even though the Pacojet had been utilized at the demonstration facility after having been transported there by BH. Also, for me, the pairing of a pain perdu ice cream with a pain perdu dessert was unnecessary -- perhaps a malt ice cream might have subjectively suited me better. An interesting discussion between Steve Klc and the BH chefs on their respective methods for utilizing Pacojet, including the need to adapt "ordinary" dessert recipes for the Pacojet. At BH, there are different Pacojet containerse of frozen ice cream, which get individually whipped up when dessert orders are fulfilled. Dan keeps the Pacojet close to the area where plating occurs at BH. He uses the Pacojet to make soup from the sweetest peas, and also to make certain spinash purees.

The other party demonstrating during the morning session was Tribeca Grill's pastry chef. Malawry and edemuth assisted with prep work and the handing out of samples to audience members. At one point, Mike was kind enough to assist as well. It was nice meeting Steve Klc, chefette, edemuth and Suzanne F for the first time. :laugh: I enjoyed spending much of the day with Bux and his wife. :laugh: :laugh:

#46 ngatti

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Posted 09 November 2002 - 07:37 PM

A few of us managed to meet without the aid of a Heineken booth. Most of the people I met gathered after the first demo of the day and Suzanne was among the group. Don't worry about her spending all her time looking for the Heineken booth. I missed Nick and I assume the Caped Chef, but since I didn't know what he was wearing, I can't be sure he just wasn't avoiding me.

I really enjoyed the demos for the tastings as well as for the tips, personalities and entertainment. I probably won't make it back tomorrow, but expect to be there on Monday when Michael (mlpc), Colleen (chefette) and Patrice (Patrice) will be feeding, instructing and entertaining those who get seats at the demo.

Monday for me also Bux. I'll try to get to the demonstration kitchen. Hope to see you all there. :smile:

Nick

#47 Bux

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Posted 09 November 2002 - 08:52 PM

We weren't very good about making orderly rounds of the exhibits but there was some good bacon (is there bad bacon?) and pretty good commerical French charcuterie to sample. Also of note to me, as I've been using Danesi Gold espresso beans for some time, a new offering from Danesi that is also an all Arabica espresso roast. This one is has 'doppio' in the name and comes in a black package. I have to try and talk DiPalo's into carrying it. I thought it was the far better of the two brands I tasted, although I didn't get to compare it side by side with the Danesi Gold.

Campbell's was proudly displaying large cans of time saving "bases" for those who had customers to feed with a vengeance. Large cans of fat, starch and embalming fluid which you could make into your own unique dishes with, I suppose appropriately, pieces of dead animals.
Robert Buxbaum
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#48 ngatti

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Posted 09 November 2002 - 09:16 PM

I bet the bacon was nueskies, sampled at Debragga & Spitler

Nick

#49 Bux

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Posted 09 November 2002 - 09:38 PM

I believe that was the bacon. I didn't really look to see if it was there booth or their distributor. Nearby was Marcel & Henri's charcuterie francaise. I have a suspicion that this place has been featured on Bouland's A la Carte web site. I should check. The had an andouillette sausage product that was made of tripe, but unlike the true French version, this one appeared to have the ingredients all ground up.
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#50 Suvir Saran

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Posted 10 November 2002 - 05:55 AM

Meredith Kurtzman the pastry chef at Esca demo'd Ricotta Fritters with Poached Quince. The fruit (quince) has never tasted so good. And I cook a lot with it. I could have eaten all 100 plus portions of the fruit by myself. :shock:




edit: Meredith, if you read this thread... I am craving the quince. It was amazing. Thanks for your great long effort in poaching it so perfectly. :smile:

#51 Suzanne F

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Posted 10 November 2002 - 09:45 AM

Yes, the bacon was, of course, Nueskies. The best on earth (or at least, to me it is :wub: ) But no, it was in their own booth, not at DeBragga and Spitler. Their (DeB & S) booth was on the upper level, and they didn't seem to be giving out ANY food :angry: Being up there made them so much more "serious" :wink: as a source of supplies, and of people; I assume that they are still carrying on with the informal "employment agency" that Marc Sarrazin used to do.

Can you guess what might be in a can of Campbell's "Bechamel Base?" I'm afraid to even consider it. Maybe some of that new "Signature Secrets" culinary thickener? :blink: :wacko:

And once again, Suvir is too modest: his "Apple Halwa Samosas" were just as fabulous as Meredith's Fritters and Quince. Both gave excellent presentations.

#52 Bux

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Posted 10 November 2002 - 04:07 PM

I have to say there wasn't a clunker in the lot of desserts. That's saying a lot as I had some really great desserts the day before at Craft Bar. Craft's apple fitters with caramel ice cream are sensational, but I might have liked the almond cake, which tasted of butter as much as almonds, with the poached pear and vanilla ice cream even better. The Monday crew have a lot to live up to, but I've already been impressed by the little I've tasted of Patrice and Colleen's work and have lttle fear that they and Michael will disappoint us.

For sheer entertainment value however, Suvir can't be beat. I'm not even sure he can cook. He had a real Indian there who obviously knew what she was doing and I wasn't sure Suvir wasn't faking his part, but he had great stories to tell and kept us in stitches as we eagerly awaited our samples. I for one will not get within ten feet of an unripe tamarind. I'm sure his story of eating them as a child was the inspiration of the original Jeckel and Hyde story.

Suvir was good enough to remember to tell everyone that they could learn all about Indian cuisine and have just about every culinary question they could imagine, answered at eGullet.com. I noticed he listed it in the official program as well.
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#53 Bux

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Posted 10 November 2002 - 04:11 PM

Meredith, by the way, announced she is leaving Esca and will be in charge of the gelato at Mario's new pizza place. Her great concern is that there's no fresh fruit available at the time the restaurant is opening.

While you can't have too much pork, it's not as complete a diet as gelato and pizza.
Robert Buxbaum
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#54 Suzanne F

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Posted 10 November 2002 - 04:18 PM

So are we still on for tomorrow (Monday) at 11am, by the demo area? At that time, there will be a "Chefs Championship" featuring Florida seafood going on (mlpc, Chefette, Patrice, and one more chef aren't on until 12:30). Maybe by the ChefWorks table just as you come up on the demos? I'll probably be in "smart casual" -- blue jeans, a nice shirt, and a black leather jacket -- and a HUGE black tote bag marked "Shaw Contract" (no relation) from last year's show. :wink: See ya!

#55 ngatti

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Posted 10 November 2002 - 04:41 PM

Ah'll be sure to hunt y'all down.

Just to throw a monkey wrench into things, I'll be wearing Country Club Casual.

Nick

#56 Brad S

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Posted 10 November 2002 - 05:20 PM

I'll be there wearing a shirt and pants. Hope to arrive by 10:45/11:00
Turnip Greens are Better than Nothing. Ask the people who have tried both.

#57 Nick

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Posted 10 November 2002 - 07:02 PM

So are we still on for tomorrow (Monday) at 11am, by the demo area?  At that time, there will be a "Chefs Championship" featuring Florida seafood going on....

Hope you guys get a chance to sample some of that. When I'd visit my father down near Key West we'd often drive a few keys up to a small seafood retailer/restaurant and eat some of the best seafood I've ever had. That southern cooking and southern fish were so different (and good) from what we do up here.

#58 Suvir Saran

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Posted 10 November 2002 - 10:34 PM

Most amazing Poached Quince Recipe - Meredith Kurtzman

#59 Suvir Saran

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Posted 11 November 2002 - 08:50 PM

Chefette made the best Dessert Onion Rings I have ever had. :shock:
Her dessert, Cornucopia, was very good. I went to the demo as skeptical as one can be. I went their to only find some food for the intellectual part of my person, and I have come back sated by the taste of her preparation.
It helped that she was witty, charming and such a pro at having the audience's complete attention. The dessert had layers of complexity. And it had a great balance between the taste and textures provided by its many individual components.
For a presentation that would have sufficed in its success as nothing more than just a challenge to ones thought and intellect, this dessert did that and also more.
I was glad my curiosity got the best of me and I went to the Demo. :smile:

#60 chefette

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Posted 12 November 2002 - 08:09 AM

I am happy to hear that Suvir at least found my dessert edible - even enjoyable. I have to admit I did get a bit carried away with the concept of the demo and was afraid I had taken it too far (especially with the onion rings which I very nearly did not serve).

My dessert that Suvir is referring to was called Corucopia. The demo title was Modern Techniques and use of vegetables in desserts (or something to that effect). My original thought was to do a butternut squash and green apple preparation, but when Patrice decided to use those ingredients I thought it would be best to use something else to offer the audience more variety. I also thought that squash is fairly accessible and many people have already pursued it in dessert preparations. I thought it might be fun to move to something less explored and outside the conventional boundaries. So I chose Corn, Beets, and Onions.

The reason I selected corn and beets was that they are both excellent sources of sugar. In fact I had to play with my recipees to counteract the inherent sweetness of the vegetables. Unlike many fruits (that have bright spiky flavor), corn and beets offer no acidity to spike their flavors - After working with them, I thought they produced very broad, flat strong flavors.

My final dessert was (starting from the bottom):
Bourbon gelee (infused with cilantro) with golden corn kernels in suspension
Sweet Corn Custard
Beet Jus (with port, pomegranate and cranberry)
Cilantro
Corn Foam (with Guinness Beer)
Corn popped in caramel (which I wanted to demo)
Corn flake caramel crisps (which I also wanted to demo)
A sweet onion ring (for fun)

I believe that Steve is planning to collect and post all the recipees from our demos on the site, so those should be available shortly.