The new Momofuku Noodle Bar will have taken 12 weeks from demolition to the serving of the first bowl of ramen. As soon as it opens they will begin work transforming the old Momofuku Noodle Bar down the block into Momofuku Ko.
“Dave is equipment crazy,” Mr. Phuah said of Mr. Chang as he pored over the appliance list for the new noodle bar, including a custom noodle cooker, standard noodle cooker, a grill, plancha, salamander, steam oven, range and, for the crispy veal sweetbreads, a deep fryer.
But most of that will be invisible to diners at the new noodle bar. The shoe-box-shaped room, which might be described as a dojo crossed with a lunch counter, is more than twice as big as the old restaurant. The walls are lined with strips of plywood, with a bar running the length of one wall and even a small waiting area, a luxury when space is money.
And the Picasso there? A six-foot-by-four-foot photograph of the Band that Elliot Landy took for the group’s 1968 album, “Music From Big Pink.”
“I’ll tell you the real geeky reason why it’s the Band,” Mr. Chang said later by phone. “It was truly a group mentality. It’s some of the things we strive for at Momofuku. The picture is going to freak people out, but it’s for us. It’s an affirmation that this is a group effort.”
Mr. Tsuruta and Mr. Phuah share a similar collaborative spirit, but the photograph’s symbolism didn’t seem to resonate. “I told them about it, and Hiro didn’t get it,” Mr. Chang said. “Swee said, ‘Dave, you’re a weirdo.’ So I just told them they should just expect a massive picture.”
Momofuku Noodle Bar (Nov. 2007 - Dec. 2008)
#1
Posted 17 October 2007 - 07:17 AM
#2
Posted 11 November 2007 - 06:15 AM
A: Food was as good as ever - brussels w/bacon, roasted rice cakes, pork buns, fried sweetbreads, pickles, and the NEW soft serve ice cream were all A-1.
B: Place was slammed - I mean slammed, from when we got there (20 minute wait) at 1:45, until we left at around 3:30.
C: Damn, they have a lot of cooks working there. And a huge line compared to the old Noodle Bar.
Mitch Weinstein aka "weinoo"
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mweinstein@eGstaff.org
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Was it you baby...or just a Brilliant Disguise?
#3
Posted 11 November 2007 - 09:22 AM
#4
Posted 11 November 2007 - 11:21 AM
Mitch Weinstein aka "weinoo"
Host, eGullet Forums
mweinstein@eGstaff.org
Tasty Travails - My Blog
My eGullet FoodBog - A Tale of Two Boroughs
Was it you baby...or just a Brilliant Disguise?
#5
Posted 11 November 2007 - 12:19 PM
#6
Posted 11 November 2007 - 03:39 PM
#10
Posted 26 November 2007 - 11:21 AM
For being slammed so quickly and it was obvious that it wasn't going to slow down service was very friendly and helpful.
We both had the kimchee stew and the dish hasn't missed a step from the last location. I almost wish they would take it off the menu so I can finally order something else but as long as it's there I will always order it.
Ice cream was delicious.
Pumpkin flavor.
#11
Posted 15 December 2007 - 03:23 PM
I was seated at the bar near the front, and I did notice a (single) seat open up at the bar in the back where you can see the kitchen. I asked one of the waiters if I could switch, and he said he would check, but in the interim, my first dish came and I started eating, and no one ever came to tell me whether I could move, and eventually there was someone else seated there. (Once my food came, I was pretty focused on that!)
I told the waiter that I had never eaten there and was open to suggestion, but that I was thinking of the sweetbreads. He said they were very good, but deep-fried and rich for one person, but I went ahead with the order anyway. I said I was also thinking about the spicy tripe, but I was hesitating a bit, so he suggested he would put in the sweetbreads order, and then I could decide if I wanted more.
The sweetbreads were indeed very good and very rich, but somehow I struggled through to finish them. They came with a sweet chili sauce, which was nice as well.
After I finished, I decided I did have room to try the tripe. It was pretty spicy (a bit spicier than I expected after reading that some of the dishes at Ssam Bar were labeled spicy, but were not). I liked the spice level (i.e, it was not too high), although it was spicy enough to make my nose run. The waiter offered some rice with it, which helped cut the spiciness a bit. The dish was very flavorful.
Unfortunately, that was all I could handle, so I was not able to taste either the ice cream or any of the other dishes I was considering. E-gulleters, thanks for your advice as always!
Edited to add: Also, the server asked whether I didn't want to order one of the ramen dishes, but I pooh-poohed that notion thanks to all your advice. I'm glad, because I wouldn't want to have filled up on noodles.
Edited by HOLLY_L, 15 December 2007 - 03:31 PM.
#12
Posted 22 December 2007 - 04:10 PM
Mitch Weinstein aka "weinoo"
Host, eGullet Forums
mweinstein@eGstaff.org
Tasty Travails - My Blog
My eGullet FoodBog - A Tale of Two Boroughs
Was it you baby...or just a Brilliant Disguise?
#13
Posted 31 December 2007 - 08:30 PM
#14
Posted 21 February 2008 - 10:47 AM
the smoked whitefish was blah.
I love baby bok choy and I love bacon. there's a dish combining both, plus ricecakes...what could be the problem? unbelievably, it was boring. the broth needed kick...maybe even just a healthy dose of sriracha.
duck confit with grits was very good. hearty and simple. not a fan of grits but these were well-seasoned.
off-menu special of foie over bitter greens with lychee was an excellent dish. simple in conception, well executed. good ingredients.
#15
Posted 22 February 2008 - 09:36 AM
that smoked duck breast dish is amazing. really the epitome of a Momofuku dish. it just works.
the smoked whitefish was blah.
I love baby bok choy and I love bacon. there's a dish combining both, plus ricecakes...what could be the problem? unbelievably, it was boring. the broth needed kick...maybe even just a healthy dose of sriracha.
duck confit with grits was very good. hearty and simple. not a fan of grits but these were well-seasoned.
off-menu special of foie over bitter greens with lychee was an excellent dish. simple in conception, well executed. good ingredients.
Why didn't you add some sriracha to the bok choy? There are small squeeze tubes full of it all over the restaurant. It could just be some variance in the kitchen but when I had it the other day the broth was perfect: not too salty, not too sweet, just very flavorful.
Also, are you sure the duck confit was with grits? I've had it twice and unless they've changed the dish in the past day, it's a very loosely scrambled egg. Almost like a savory zabaglione. It does kind of look like grits. A little bit more yellow though.
Edited by spaetzle_maker, 22 February 2008 - 09:38 AM.
#16
Posted 22 February 2008 - 10:17 AM
no sriracha bottle at my table.
#19
Posted 22 February 2008 - 11:54 AM
Edit to add: I didn't really look closely at the menu - I saw duck confit and ordered. The first time I had this dish a few weeks ago, it was definitely egg. The dish that I had the other night was so similar, the only difference was that the "egg" part was less foamy than the first time and, um, a little bit more gritty. I thought that maybe it waited at the pass a few seconds too long and the "egg" had deflated, but you may have explained the reason why the texture was different.
Anyway, the first time I had the dish, it had a fois vinaigrette. That may have been what the seasoning was that made you like the gritty egg.
Edited by spaetzle_maker, 22 February 2008 - 12:01 PM.
#20
Posted 23 February 2008 - 07:59 AM
What? Are you kidding?! Maybe I was there on Tuesday?
Edit to add: I didn't really look closely at the menu - I saw duck confit and ordered. The first time I had this dish a few weeks ago, it was definitely egg. The dish that I had the other night was so similar, the only difference was that the "egg" part was less foamy than the first time and, um, a little bit more gritty. I thought that maybe it waited at the pass a few seconds too long and the "egg" had deflated, but you may have explained the reason why the texture was different.
Anyway, the first time I had the dish, it had a fois vinaigrette. That may have been what the seasoning was that made you like the gritty egg.
I was there last night, and this time, the duck confit was definitely paired with egg on the menu. The grits were paired with the roast quail. Perhaps they're just juggling these around.
#21
Posted 23 February 2008 - 02:34 PM
What? Are you kidding?! Maybe I was there on Tuesday?
Edit to add: I didn't really look closely at the menu - I saw duck confit and ordered. The first time I had this dish a few weeks ago, it was definitely egg. The dish that I had the other night was so similar, the only difference was that the "egg" part was less foamy than the first time and, um, a little bit more gritty. I thought that maybe it waited at the pass a few seconds too long and the "egg" had deflated, but you may have explained the reason why the texture was different.
Anyway, the first time I had the dish, it had a fois vinaigrette. That may have been what the seasoning was that made you like the gritty egg.
I was there last night, and this time, the duck confit was definitely paired with egg on the menu. The grits were paired with the roast quail. Perhaps they're just juggling these around.
Maybe. When I was there, the woman sitting next to me had the quail and the fact that it was served with grits was plain as day.
The texture of what I had the other day was a little bit different from what I had the first time, but only to a minor degree and not enough for me to double check the menu- I thought it either deflated slightly or that the curds were just a little bit more pronounced. In terms of taste, the duck confit was very dominant when compared with other components of the dish. I love duck.
#22
Posted 26 February 2008 - 10:37 AM
#24
Posted 12 April 2008 - 06:22 AM
But last night after a few drinks at Terroir (and because I eat dessert before dinner, unexpectedly good chocolate pudding) I didn't feel like venturing so far in the rain and made my first visit to Noodle Bar. Prime-time, 830, I was told it was only a twenty-five minute wait which seemed too good to be true so I stood outside with my date, going back in to check when a host stopped coming outside to call names. I was moving up the list so I moved inside, learned I was next, then every time I turned my back another party was seated. The hostess consistently overlooked my name on her list and it got to the point where I stood right beside her and the other hostess started seating parties of two. I pointed this out to the first hostess who asked again what my name was who now told me she already seated me a few parties back, or at least she thought she did. It was just bizarre more than frustrating I think.
Still I hoped it would be worth the wait. And once seated it was. The manager offered and comped us rounds of sake, a plate of pickled vegetables and our cannoli-pistachio cones. I assume it's that same behavior frequent diners receive for their loyalty, but as a first-timer and after the frustration I have to admit, it certainly breeds loyalty too.
#25
Posted 19 April 2008 - 03:22 PM
I have to say, I've been really impressed. Noodle Bar holds up really well to Ssam Bar, which I wasn't expecting. The flatiron steak with miso butter, at $20, seemed like an indulgence at first, but turned out to be a bargain. One of the best steaks I've had in a long time.
#26
Posted 23 April 2008 - 12:55 AM
My take is that Ssam Bar peaked some time this past summer or fall. I have enjoyed my last several meals at Ssam Bar a bit less than the best meals I've had there, in part because the service has slipped, in part because the kitchen has been less consistently excellent at execution, and in part because I keep seeing new preparations that aren't as good as the old preparations (something one has to expect in the name of innovation, but it seems to be happening more lately).
Meanwhile, Noodle Bar has steadily improved and, in its new location, has taken a substantial step forward. The big, beautiful kitchen has raised the standard of execution and the cooks' abilities to be ambitious. And service at Noodle Bar today is very engaging and informed -- reminiscent of the way Ssam Bar service was when I fell in love with the place (whereas lately I've found it to border on inattentive).
The overall style of food at Noodle Bar is more rustic than at Ssam Bar -- I guess I'd say the center of gravity is more rustic -- however if you examine the full range then much of the cooking at Noodle Bar reveals itself as being fully as sophisticated as the best cooking at Ssam Bar.
Tonight, for example, we tried the cured Arctic char with dill tofu and rye "flatbread." This is a whimsical, haute take on lox with cream cheese, or maybe smoked salmon with Russian-style black bread. The thin slices of Arctic char are lox-like in appearance, except they have the beautiful orange-ish color of char rather than the deep pink of smoked salmon. The whipped tofu with dill is a vivid avocado green. And the rye "flatbreads" are more like bread puffs. I thought it was a visually arresting presentation, and more importantly it was delicious.
It had been awhile since I had the grits at Noodle Bar. The current preparation comes with two huge Mayan prawns, an egg and country ham. It's a triumph. The friends we had with us are food people from the South (one of them a chef), and they were shocked -- they wouldn't come right out and say the grits preparation they were eating in New York City was better than any they'd encountered in the South, but it was clearly what they were thinking.
The sweetbreads with sweet chili sauce are abundant and irresistible. The kimchi stew is just an amazing dish, one I could repeat frequently (some people do -- apparently there's a customer who has it several times a week). The steamed buns with shiitakes are so good it's almost tempting to order them instead of the pork buns. But ordering both works too. The pickles are great (though as I pointed out on another topic the pickle plate at Kampuchea is, I think, even better).
The current ice cream is Cracker Jack, but they'd run out. Somebody else please taste it and report back.
Given the way the trend has been playing out, I can't help but think that Noodle Bar is still improving -- that its cooks have even more up their sleeves. I'm going to be keeping a closer eye on Noodle Bar because I think I'll be choosing it over Ssam Bar more than I have in the past.
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)
#27
Posted 23 April 2008 - 06:43 AM
I'm fairly new to all the momofukus but in my limited experience (a little over a half dozen times at both places) Noodle has been the better experience for all of the reasons you cited above.
Also, regarding the prawns and grits, I was very very happy with this dish. I think wrapping the prawns with ham instead of bacon is brilliant. I'm actually heading down to South Carolina today to visit my folks and i'm anxious to try the southern version and see how noddle's measures up. Those freaking prawns were gigantic!
Edited by Scotttos, 23 April 2008 - 06:43 AM.
#28
Posted 23 April 2008 - 08:31 AM
I think for a while I was getting a little bit tired of Noodle Bar but after they settled into their new space they really made a lot of strides in introducing new items on the menu and I'm loving having new, insanely delicious things to eat in an environment that continues to be so friendly and feel so homey.
Edited by spaetzle_maker, 23 April 2008 - 02:08 PM.
#29
Posted 23 April 2008 - 08:43 AM
I think it's virtually impossible to debate that Noodle Bar has improved. I'll be totally shocked if anybody mounts the opposite claim. I won't be at all surprised if lots of folks challenge the claim that Ssam Bar has slipped, but I feel pretty strongly that it has and I have enough data points to be quite confident of the claim. I'm certainly not saying the slippage has been dramatic. I doubt anybody who has dined at the restaurant less than 10 or 20 times would much notice (whereas those who dine there 10 or 20 times a month are seeing category of performance that probably hasn't slipped). But from my perspective as an infrequent regular it has been enough to warrant saying something about it.
Co-founder, Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)
#30
Posted 23 April 2008 - 08:45 AM




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