Posted 22 January 2003 - 10:32 AM
I had a good-plus meal at Le Bernardin recently. One dish (the uni and caviar composition) was very good; certain others were less good. If the uni and caviar composition were removed from the equation, I would only have rated the meal good. Note I continue to favor taking in fish dishes at Blue Hill over LeB.
The meal began with a glass of Laurent Perrer Rose ($18). (Taittinger Comtes de Champagne was also available by the glass.) Nibbles taken at the bar, waiting for my table (9:30 reservation), were (a) "twisted" cheese straws and (b) salmon rillettes (more like diced salmon) with little bread slices.
Chef's Tasting Menu ($130/person; $225 with wine pairings)
The meal began with an amuse of Maine shrimp, with a garlic and tomato foam. The shrimp was presented with its head intacdt, and was passable. I have long believed that amuses is an area in which LeB could make improvement.
(1) TUNA-HAMACHI
Patchwork of Tuna and Hamachi Sashimi Lightly Brushed with Yuzu Vinaigrette, with Riesling Domaine Paul Blanck 2001
Little rectangles of slices of salmon and yellowtail were presented side-by-side to form the patchwork. There was only one row of these rectangles. The yuzu saucing was in a thickish layer on top of the raw salmon and yellowtail, and included little onion dices (for crunchiness), a bit of lemon jus and chives. The acidity of the yuzu was suppressed by connotations of ginger (?). Overall, this dish was not impressive because the taste of salmon with the yuzu saucing was not harmonious with that of yellowtail with the same saucing. The sum was less than parts of this dish. The Riesling was average.
(2) CAVIAR-SEA URCHIN
Warm Sea Urchin and Iranian Osetra Caviar Nestled in Sea Urchin Linguine, with Chassagne-Montrachet Ramonet 2000
A very good dish. The linguini-like pasta was nicely curled in a little heap, and cooked to be softened to more than al dente (appropriate for this dish, so the pasta does not dominate). Nice sentiments of the seat from the osetra and the sea urchin. Also, nice display of the saltiness of the osetra against the buttery sensations of the pasta. The pasta was a bit coated with a butter with sea urchin sensations (different from the whole pieces on top of the pasta). Appealing pairing with Chassagne-Montrachet -- I like Ramonet, but here the 2000 vintage could perhaps wait a bit.
(This dish has a $50 supplement when taken as part of the regular prix fixe menu, whose base price is $84)
(3) SALMON
Barely cooked Salmon on a Bed of Red Wine Braised Leeks; Black Truffle "Butter Vinaigrette", with Kistler "Les Noisetiers" (Chardonnay) 2999
The salmon had been slowly poached in bouillon, and lacked the luciousness of poaching in goose fat or olive oil. The bouillon for the cooking of the salmon apparently included dashi, seaweed infusion, smoked tuna, shitake and maitake mushrooms and scallion (?). The saucing did not add the necessary sensations of slinkiness. The dish was still appropriate, and the sweetness of the leeks helped slightly.
(4) HALIBUT
Steamed Halibut in an Orange-Ginger Scented Dashi Broth; Maitake and Oyster Mushroom Medley, with Condrieu "Cuvee de Breze" Domaine Cheze 2000
A poor dish. The dashi was extremely salty, and the halibut itslef was only average. The wine pairing could also be readjusted.
(5) LOBSTER
Roasted Maine Lobster with Asparagus and Baby Leeks; Black Pepper- Brandy Butter Sauce, with Volnay 1er Cru "Les Taillepieds" Domaine Hubert de Montille 1997
A nice dish, although the serving size was very small (2 small "body" pieces and one small claw). An intense sauce, but nothing particularly special. A nice example of the pairing of a red wine with seafood.
(6) YUZU
Yuzu Lemon Tart and Ginger Parfait topped with a Thin Caramel Tuile, with Chateau Rieussec 1996
(7) Comp'd second dessert of chocolate -- Not meaningfully sampled.
Wine pours were on the meager side. Portion size for dishes was also small. With the champagne, bottled water and coffee, $278 after tax and before tips.
Service was very good. Not unexpectedly, a number of dining room team members spoke French.