"M" Restaurant.

[Vadouvan]

Happened to be walking around Washington Square last nite and ran into a restaurant I had no idea was there.

Restaurant is called "M" with an odd gigantic yellow foam "M" sitting in the garden.

Menu looked interesting, very Django-Marigoldish so I decided to throw myself to the sword and try some food.

Unfortunately, the whole experience was abjectly disappointing, It was more like throwing myself to hungry wolves.

Here is how it goes......

They have a *lovely* huge outdoor garden, apparently the complex is a bed and breakfast called the Morris House, they have a liquor license and small bar with interior seating for about 40 people.

Take the rest of the review with a grain of salt as the place has been open for only two weeks however, they seem to need an entirely new manager and service staff, there was absolutely no oversight in the dining room. Communication and coordination were just so non-existent, if this was Cirque de Soleil, there would be trauma surgeons standing by......

I sat in the garden and was asked what I wanted a drink with no attempt to provide a wine list.

The tables were filthy, not in a dirty way but extremely dusty.

To further compound that, they brought out silverware and napkin and placed it on the dirty table.

A previous table that had departed next to me still had a chewed lemon wedge and a straw on it.

My water glass came with an obvious undetermined piece of "flotsam" in it.

I ordered 3 apps, soup, foie gras, oysters.

the menu I was presented with was dated june 9th so I asked the server if the menu was the same today, she said she wasnt sure but would check.

I ordered a chilled watermelon cucumber soup.

Food runner came with what turned out to be Parsnip soup.

No further communication from server.

Tried the soup anyway.

It was terrible, no salt period.

Consitency was a litle thinner than mashed potatoes.

I asked the food runner if the foie gras was the same as i ordered and requested a copy of the current menu. He said yes it was.

Foie was delivered to table, it was different.

It was huge but Greasy and completely unseasoned, it was also B or C grade Foie.

Served on top of an inedible toasted slice of baguette ......

Cancelled my oyster order, requested the check and left.

A complete waste of time.

[matthewj]

do not fret V. It will get Three Bells, and it will be a hit.

[Jeff L]

Happened to be walking around Washington Square last nite and ran into a restaurant I had no idea was there.

Restaurant is called "M" with an odd gigantic yellow foam "M" sitting in the garden.

Menu looked interesting, very Django-Marigoldish so I decided to throw myself to the sword and try some food.

Unfortunately, the whole experience was abjectly disappointing, It was more like throwing myself to hungry wolves.

Here is how it goes......

They have a *lovely* huge outdoor garden, apparently the complex is a bed and breakfast called the Morris House, they have a liquor license and small bar with interior seating for about 40 people.

Take the rest of the review with a grain of salt as the place has been open for only two weeks however, they seem to need an entirely new manager and service staff, there was absolutely no oversight in the dining room. Communication and coordination were just so non-existent, if this was Cirque de Soleil, there would be trauma surgeons standing by......

I sat in the garden and was asked what I wanted a drink with no attempt to provide a wine list.

The tables were filthy, not in a dirty way but extremely dusty.

To further compound that, they brought out silverware and napkin and placed it on the dirty table.

A previous table that had departed next to me still had a chewed lemon wedge and a straw on it.

My water glass came with an obvious undetermined piece of "flotsam" in it.

I ordered 3 apps, soup, foie gras, oysters.

the menu I was presented with was dated june 9th so I asked the server if the menu was the same today, she said she wasnt sure but would check.

I ordered a chilled watermelon cucumber soup.

Food runner came with what turned out to be Parsnip soup.

No further communication from server.

Tried the soup anyway.

It was terrible, no salt period.

Consitency was a litle thinner than mashed potatoes.

I asked the food runner if the foie gras was the same as i ordered and requested a copy of the current menu. He said yes it was.

Foie was delivered to table, it was different.

It was huge but Greasy and completely unseasoned, it was also B or C grade Foie.

Served on top of an inedible toasted slice of baguette ......

Cancelled my oyster order, requested the check and left.

A complete waste of time.

←

I'd have left after looking at the dirty water on top of the dirty table. Doesn't bode well for a memorable meal.

[Vadouvan]

Dont get me wrong, my post wasnt to gloat and trash the place, I want more than anything else for the hard work that chef's do to be communicated to diners, I want people to eat lovely well prepared food but I am really confounded by why these places open without being thought out and no oversight.

Do they do dry runs ?

Who the hell attended and tld them everything was Ok ?

The prices were in the BYO range and the menu seems interesting except for a few Gayle-ish wierd pairings.....

Island Creek Oysters wrapped in Nueske bacon.......the only thing that should come in contact with nueske bacon is your mouth.....

"wild copper river salmon with cucumber-feta salad, extra virgin lemon oil"

What is the point of buying copper river salmon if you are going to eat it with feta cheese ???

It's like washing your car with an Hermes Scarf......and there is no such thing as "extra virgin Lemon oil"......

My personal pet peeve on menu's this days is when restaurants feel to announce that they...

"use only the freshest local products"

But that's because the public eats it up.....

Fresh and Local have nothing to do with each other........!!!!

How about just .........seasoning the food....a novel Idea......

[philadining]

From Table Talk

M is fronted by the husband-wife team of Edmund Rek, who trained at Johnson & Wales and formerly worked at the Park Hyatt at the Bellevue, and Dawn Woodward, a caterer, instructor, artist and baker. It's a contemporary menu that stresses fair-trade and local farmed products.

They say the wine list is "coming together."

If I had walked by it, I'd probably have done what you did, V, so, thanks for taking the bullet.

[Vadouvan]

thanks for taking the bullet.

It was more like an RPG....

[Meanderer]

Fresh LOCAL ingredients? Watermelon? Parsnips? In Pennsylvania in June?

[Jeff L]

Dont get me wrong, my post wasnt to gloat and trash the place, I want more than anything else for the hard work that chef's do to be communicated to diners, I want people to eat lovely well prepared food but I am really confounded by why these places open without being thought out and no oversight.

Do they do dry runs ?

Who the hell attended and tld them everything was Ok ?

The prices were in the BYO range and the menu seems interesting except for a few Gayle-ish wierd pairings.....

How about just .........seasoning the food....a novel Idea......

←

From reading some of your previous posts and knowing a little bit of your background, I didn't get the impression you were out to trash this or any place V. I think you have honest intentions, but really there is no excuse for sending out dirty water or not cleaning off tabletops no matter how new a restaurant. If they got that wrong, how can they hope to get the food and service right?

Is Gayle-ish a positive nod or less than positive? I got the impression it was not positive. I do, however, agree they have some weird pairings indeed but we all really loved the food when we were there.

[Vadouvan]

Is Gayle-ish a positive nod or less than positive? I got the impression it was not positive. I do, however, agree they have some weird pairings indeed but we all really loved the food when we were there.

Actually It's neither as I havent actually been to Gayle yet.

My term "Gayle-ish" wierd just refer's to the fact that they pair fresh un-oxidised Tuna with lamb.

Again, I havent had the dish but I think most people would agree it's wierd and I suspect it doesnt work....?

Did you try it ?

"Tastes of Tuna and lamb" ?

[Jeff L]

Is Gayle-ish a positive nod or less than positive? I got the impression it was not positive. I do, however, agree they have some weird pairings indeed but we all really loved the food when we were there.

Actually It's neither as I havent actually been to Gayle yet.

My term "Gayle-ish" wierd just refer's to the fact that they pair fresh un-oxidised Tuna with lamb.

Again, I havent had the dish but I think most people would agree it's wierd and I suspect it doesnt work....?

Did you try it ?

"Tastes of Tuna and lamb" ?

←

No I did not nor did any of our party of 4. I don't remember seeing this on the menu the night we were there but can assure you it wouldn't be my selection. Either lamb or tuna by itself would be wonderful but together, I think not.

btw, what is un-oxidised?

Edited June 21, 2006 by Jeff L (log)

[Vadouvan]

Goes through a color change....turns Grey.

To expand, I generally avoid eating Tuna period........except at Yasuda.

Pick a random market like say Reading Terminal.

The best fish there is 3 to 5 days out of the water when it arrives and consider it stays there for about 6 to 9 days. It's quite possible that most people are consuming fish that is more than a week old.

The good thing about TUNA is that it is ruby red and as it gets older, it gets grey.

All the Tuna that comes into RTM comes in Ruby and expensive.

They label it "sushi grade"...but it isnt really....its good but just not sushi grade.

As it gets older, they slice it and call it "chunk Tuna" and lower the price by a third.

What then seems to you like a good buy is actually a ticket on the bus to the gastroenterologist's office.

So Look at the Color.........

BUT........Stop the presses.........

One of the worst things about our capitalist society is there are waves of A**Holes just waiting to take advantage of the dining public with unethical activity to extend thier profit margins.

As it turns out, a lot of unscrupulous seafood distributors are now subjecting Tuna loins to a treatment of Carbon Monoxide gas which acts as a very effective color change retardant so that fish that looks 3 days old is actually 10 days old and command's a premium price.

Shady...Shady.........

tsk tsk.....

http://www.nytimes.com/2004/10/06/dining/0...&partner=rssnyt

Let me go on a limb and read you mind......

Obvious question....."does this happen to other fish"?

Answer......NO, they just marinate it for you...........ooouuahhahhah (james bond villain in a wheelchair with a cat -Laugh)

I assure you buying pre-marinated fish is a bad bad idea.

Toodle- oooo

Edited June 21, 2006 by Vadouvan (log)

[Jeff L]

One of the worst things about our capitalist society is there are waves of A**Holes just waiting to take advantage of the dining public with unethical activity to extend thier profit margins.

As it turns out, a lot of unscrupulous seafood distributors are now subjecting Tuna loins to a treatment of Carbon Monoxide gas which acts as a very effective color change retardant so that fish that looks 3 days old is actually 10 days old and command's a premium price.

Shady...Shady.........

tsk tsk.....

←

Interesting article. I've always wondered about this, how even the better supermarkets get this fresh looking color to their tuna. Now I know. I just thought they flash freeze the fish and the color is retained. Apparently not the case.

If you do get to Gayle, I'd be interested in your opinion of the place.

[Yannii]

Gayle's tuna lamb combo is/was very good when i went a few months ago. it has tuna (perfectly sliced, fresh and flavorful, probably blue fin) dressed in tsadtiki-esque sauce (like lamb would be) the lamb, on the other hand, seems to be slow braised, sweet and tender. the dish has two elements which serve to highlight things about each other with a bridge of an avocado based sauce. truly interesting and also delicious, in my humble opinion. give it a try... PS the dirty table thing was probably related to eating in a garden restaurant during one of the worst pollen seasons in memory (anybody else have unusual allergies this year?)

[Jeff L]

Gayle's tuna lamb combo is/was very good when i went a few months ago. it has tuna (perfectly sliced, fresh and flavorful, probably blue fin) dressed in tsadtiki-esque sauce (like lamb would be) the lamb, on the other hand, seems to be slow braised, sweet and tender. the dish has two elements which serve to highlight things about each other with a bridge of an avocado based sauce. truly interesting and also delicious, in my humble opinion. give it a try... PS the dirty table thing was probably related to eating in a garden restaurant during one of the worst pollen seasons in memory (anybody else have unusual allergies this year?)

←

I too thoroughly enjoyed Gayle's food as I reported in the Gayle thread.

I'm wondering though what a chewed lemon wedge has to do with allergies.

[Buckethead]

To expand, I generally avoid eating Tuna period........except at Yasuda.

Where/what is Yasuda?

One of the worst things about our capitalist society is there are waves of A**Holes just waiting to take advantage of the dining public with unethical activity to extend thier profit margins.

As it turns out, a lot of unscrupulous seafood distributors are now subjecting Tuna loins to a treatment of Carbon Monoxide gas which acts as a very effective color change retardant so that fish that looks 3 days old is actually 10 days old and command's a premium price.

Shady...Shady.........

tsk tsk.....

http://www.nytimes.com/2004/10/06/dining/0...&partner=rssnyt

Let me go on a limb and read you mind......

Obvious question....."does this happen to other fish"?

Answer......NO, they just marinate it for you...........ooouuahhahhah (james bond villain in a wheelchair with a cat -Laugh)

←

Well, salmon farmers do add a dye to their fish feed to give them a color more like wild salmon, preventing the casual shopper from making a distinction between the two. But of all the crap they feed to a farm-raised salmon, the dye is probably the least of your worries.

[Vadouvan]

PS the dirty table thing was probably related to eating in a garden restaurant during one of the worst pollen

That's a not so good excuse....

It was actually due to the servers not doing thier sidework before the restaurant opens and no management to oversee that it was being done.

Ultimately, it's an issue of people taking the time to do things properly.

The table wasnt coverred with pollen, leaves or plant matter.

It was covered with dirt.

The kind of dirt that is created when dust is attracted to a surface with a slightly oily film.

If you are serving outside, you ought to be aware of these things.

The first thing that happens when you sit in any outdoor table in philly or New York is that a busboy cleans or at least makes sure it is clean.

It's Inept for a server to set silverware and napkins on a table that is obviously filthy.

Edited June 21, 2006 by Vadouvan (log)

[Jeff L]

Where/what is Yasuda?

←

Arguably New York's best sushi restaurant.

[Vadouvan]

Where/what is Yasuda?

Sushi Yasuda.

43rd between 2nd and 3rd.

Manhattan

Best Sushi in Manhattan (In my opinion that I have eaten so far)

Sit at the Bar.

Otherwise

Karumazushi....

Read the NY Board....

[rlibkind]

Pick a random market like say Reading Terminal. The best fish there is 3 to 5 days out of the water when it arrives and consider it stays there for about 6 to 9 days. It's quite possible that most people are consuming fish that is more than a week old.

All the more reason to inspect a whole fish, then have it cleaned and cut to order.

The good thing about TUNA is that it is ruby red and as it gets older, it gets grey.

Not quite. The same NY Times article you linked to observed:

Just because a slice of tuna is brown, it does not mean it is not fresh. And other factors determine the color, including the fat content, species and cut. The finest fresh bluefin, which sells for up to $40 a pound at Tokyo's wholesale fish markets, is not a deep red but a pale pink because of the fine web of white fat that permeates the red flesh. Top-quality toro is often a brownish red.

While "looks" can be useful in gauging food quality, they aren't foolproof. The issue of "looks good" vs. "tastes good" is an interesting one, because "looks" aren't dependable, and can be outright deceiving, as the use of carbon monoxide for tuna could allow. A prime example is the apple. The consumer's desire for big, bright, shiny red apples has brought us (ta-da!) the Washington State Delicious. (If there were such a thing as truth in advertising, it would be the Washington State Tasteless.) But that's what most American consumers demand. If a supermarket tried to sell russets or scabby Cox Orange Pippins, at the end of the week they'd toss them into the dumpster or make applesauce.

Same holds true for fish. We want them pristine white and filletted, compact in form and dense (hence the popularity of Patagonian tooth fish, a.k.a. Chilean Sea Bass). We also want what we want when we want it, even if it is out of season. This is what brought us not only Washington State Nitrogen Controlled Atmosphere Storage Apples (and pears, and cherries, etc.), but out-of-season tuna, farmed salmon, etc.

That desire for beautiful looking food is why we not only buy our fish filleted, but why you no longer see hanging sides of beef at a butcher or supermarket. Instead, we get our cow and chicken meat on white trays wrapped in plastic. A cow, after all, is one of the Creator's ugliest creations, inferior in looks to even the ground hog (though better tasting -- I ate same chicken-fried ground hog lst night and while it was fine, I prefer a hunk of beef or stewed chicken, but that's another story).

I'll say again what I've said before: to the greatest extent possible, stick to the seasons and avoid excessive demands on our rather advanced transport and warehousing systems. Your tastebuds will thank you. (Now, where are my Chilean grapes!)

[Vadouvan]

Not quite. The same NY Times article you linked to observed:

QUOTE(New York Times @ Oct. 6, 2004)

Just because a slice of tuna is brown, it does not mean it is not fresh. And other factors determine the color, including the fat content, species and cut. The finest fresh bluefin, which sells for up to $40 a pound at Tokyo's wholesale fish markets, is not a deep red but a pale pink because of the fine web of white fat that permeates the red flesh. Top-quality toro is often a brownish red.

Yes I understood that Tuna can be Ruby to Pink, hamachi is a very light pink.

The stuff I am referring to at RTM is oxidised grey-ish brown, very different from any shade on the pink scale................ and cannot be remotely equated with freshness.

[bigboss]

One of my current co-workers is friends with the chef of this place. He seems to think that it will not be a topic of conversation for long. Regardless, such an unpleasant dining experience is intolerable. It shows an utter lack of respect on the part of the manager for the customer and for him or her self as a professional to overlook such simple details.

You know what this city needs is a more reputable fish retail outlet. I don't find RTM to have that fresh of fish, and WholeFoods charges an obscene price for essentially the same quality. Chinatown, despite the smell of death surrounding fish stalls, can be good from time to time. And at least you can buy whole fish and either butcher them yourself or have them do it. At least the flesh is not exposed to the air or to whatever chemical treatment the fishmonger deems necessary to make the product sell. The problem is that people don't know how to cook fish and don't really like the taste as much as they think. Why else are such tasteless fish as barramundi, orange roughy, tilapia and chilean sea bass crowd pleasers. I can't even describe here in words the sight of the fish market I saw in Rouen. Turbots, John Dory, Dover sole, periwinkles, razor clams, lobsters, dorades, you name it... all whole and at a reasonable price. What a wealth for the local French home cook to have at his or her disposal.

[KatieLoeb]

He seems to think that it will not be a topic of conversation for long.

Meaning?

Does he think they'll fix the problems, or is he implying the doors will close sooner rather than later?

Regardless, such an unpleasant dining experience is intolerable.  It shows an utter lack of respect on the part of the manager for the customer and for him or her self as a professional to overlook such simple details.

I'm surprised the server didn't have enough sense to detail their own station better than that. But they're obviously getting no guidance, so your point is taken.

[rlibkind]

Yes I understood that Tuna can be Ruby to Pink, hamachi is a very light pink.

The stuff I am referring to at RTM is oxidised grey-ish brown, very different from any shade on the pink scale................ and cannot be remotely equated with freshness.

No argument from me. I've never bought the tuna at the RTM because if I'm going to have tuna, I want it absolutely fresh. Tuna is not one of the fish the RTM does well. But there are others they handle well. Further explication below.

You know what this city needs is a more reputable fish retail outlet. I don't find RTM to have that fresh of fish, and WholeFoods charges an obscene price for essentially the same quality. Chinatown, despite the smell of death surrounding fish stalls, can be good from time to time. And at least you can buy whole fish and either butcher them yourself or have them do it. At least the flesh is not exposed to the air or to whatever chemical treatment the fishmonger deems necessary to make the product sell. The problem is that people don't know how to cook fish and don't really like the taste as much as they think. Why else are such tasteless fish as barramundi, orange roughy, tilapia and chilean sea bass crowd pleasers. I can't even describe here in words the sight of the fish market I saw in Rouen. Turbots, John Dory, Dover sole, periwinkles, razor clams, lobsters, dorades, you name it... all whole and at a reasonable price. What a wealth for the local French home cook to have at his or her disposal.

Lots to ponder here. You're right, the city could use better fish markets, and a lot of the fish I see at the three RTM stalls doesn't meet my standards. But if you are selective, you can find some fine fish there. They offer plenty of whole fish, so you can better judge the quality. About a month ago I had some Alaskan halibut from John Yi's that was surprisingly fresh. (Of course, it could well have been frozen, though I don't think so; nonetheless, properly frozen and handled frozen fish can frequently be better than fresh.) Nice, very firm halibut steaks, full of meaty halibut flavor. It was handled with care. I also made a trip a couple of weeks ago to Ippolito's, the retail division of Samuels & Sons; I was generally disappointed with the store (no mackeral?) but the whole fluke I purchased was very fresh and sweet; almost as good if I can caught it myself.

Your dead-on in saying the reason people get tasteless fish is because they want it that way. Sigh. Yet, at least some people must want fish that has taste. Or maybe it's price. Mackeral, one of the world's tastiest fishes, can be obtained at less than $3/pound from the RTM fishmongers. Only slightly more expensive is porgy. And guess what? Porgy is a sea bream. You know what they call sea bream in France? Dorade! (Admittedly, it's a particular variety, in this case -- dorade in France, gilthead sea bream in the UK -- and its flavor profile is a little different from other bream. But not that different.)

Which brings me to your list of wonderful fish at the Rouen market, bigboss. Look over that list of finfish, and I think you'll find that all of them are landed along the northwest coast of France, maybe 50 or 60 miles from Rouen. (I think the shellfish are also local.) So, the fish you cite as so pristine and fresh are LOCAL fish. They are not imported from half a continent away or a distant corner of the world.

And that's the secret of good fish: fresh and local. So don't expect to get a fresh John Dory here; that's asking too much. (By the same token, I think it would be unreasonable to expect fresh-caught bluefish in Rouen.) But you can get some perfectly wonderful local porgies and butterfish and sea bass. You still have to check the individual fish and be a wise consumer, but these less expensive varieties are not only economical, they are fresher than more exotic fish and choice eating. Status they may lack; flavor they do not.

[matthewj]

Ok. V "Epaule d' agneau au thon."- Translated "shoulder of lamb stuffed with tuna." This dish comes from the Provence region. It usually has hard boiled eggs, olives and wrapped like a crepinne. This dish is logical result of Strong tuna that you will find along Provence near marseille. Such as skip jack or bonito. Which is often very strong and sometimes grey. ( grey is not always bad, this case it was but some fish have grey color. King mackeral, carp, some pike0 from the amount of swimming and warm waters. It is combined with a strong tasting lamb. almost like a cuallette nicoise. I wanted to do it one time for brunch but chef said that the customer would not understand it .

So I am not sure if that is what Gayle is going for but, there it is.

You know, I know I hate the wording of fresh and local. Fresh, gees I hopes so...and local. well I haven't seen some local salmon recently.

I saw a blurb in inky that professed a restuarant was using fresh herbs. Sure as hell hope so. I thought that should already be understood that a restuarant uses fresh herbs. Like that is something novel.

This proves what I talked about before. A lot of restuarnts believe that they can get away with serving sub par food, dirty service, in the name of fresh and local.

The public needs to be educated on a higher standard of eating. Like BB said about the fish is true. That being said it is up to us to set higher standards for ourselves and our clients. And stop using Sxxxxxxxx, and the second tier fish mongers and give the clientele the premium product. Not some second grade bull crap, and sell it like it is gold. (BB remember the passed around halibut. And that ended up in one the "finer" establishments in town.) but then also educate the client that good food costs money. (25 dollars a # for European Turbot.)

It depresses me to hear stories like these. Because someone invested in that crap.

[rlibkind]

. . . but then also educate the client that good food costs money.  (25 dollars a # for European Turbot.)

←

What I'm reading between the lines of your missive (and please, please I hope I'm wrong) is that good food MUST cost money. Well, of course, but not necessarily lots of money. I expect to pay, and pay well, for well-prepared food that costs money to prepare. And there's also no getting around the fact that high quality ingredients generally cost more than low quality ingredients.

But there are also high quality ingredients that do not cost a lot of money. Cost alone is not a determinant of quality. And for the home cook, that matters. I'll invest time and money in cooking dinner when I perceive it's worth it. But more often than not, local, fresh and cheap is my choice vs. imported, old and dear. And I base my raw ingredient purchase decisions not on philosophy or polemics, but on what's going to taste best for my buck. Sometimes that means spending lotsa bucks for six-week dry aged prime beef, sometimes it means opening of tin of sardines. Either can be ethereal.