Brittany

[Carlovski]

I am spending a week in a cottage in Brittany with some friends in June (Morbihan area, near Josselin if anyone knows the area)

Any food highlights, restaurant recs, local produce to buy, good markets all appreciated. All I know is they have crepes and drink cider.

It will actually be my first trip to France as well, so general French type fare and activities are fine.

[touaregsand]

Fruits of the sea. Blue lobster and AOC oysters especially.

I'm sure someone will come along to make specific restaurant reccomendations.

[Bux]

If all I ate were excellent galettes (which how one refers to savory crepes made with buckwheat flour in Brittany) and all I had to drink was good cider, I'd consider myself a lucky man. In addition to fresh seafood, Brittany has some of the finest salt coming from Guerande and some of the finest butter. They're combined in the excellent salt butter caramels. Gwenn Ha Du being my favorite brand. What you really want to find is a good kouign amann. Douarnenez to the west of Brittany, is the town most famous for this very buttery pastry, but I recall having an excellent version in a pastry shop in Vannes.

Everyone knows Brittany is famous for simple fresh seafood, although I still believe June is not the best time for oysters. More sophisiticate cooking has come to Brittany and a number of Paris' best chefs are Breton. For my money, there's no better place to eat in Brittany that at Roellinger in Cancale. I've eaten in a number of one and two star restaurants and none of them has fed me as well as Roellinger. It's been a while since I've been there, but that's where I'd head if I wanted a blowout haute cuisine dinner, or lunch.

[Busboy]

I believe the lamb that grazes in the salt-marshes near the coast, known as lamb pre-sale (pronounced pray-suhLAY, and spelled with accent aigues and such in French) is a specialty, though I have not had a chance to taste it.

[SuzySushi]

Josselin is a very pretty (if touristy) town with half-timbered houses and shops. I remember we had some very good seafood crepes there at a creperie just off the main square (it was a long time ago & I don't remember the restaurant's name).

Besides crepes and straight seafood, other foods Brittany is famous for are Cotriade, a fish chowder, and shortbread-like butter cookies (sables, with an accent, sah-BLEZ), the best-known of which are tins of Le Galettes de Pont Aven, made in the town of Pont Aven.

The southern part of Brittany is also famous for its seacoast and for its megaliths to rival Stonehenge; one famous site is Carnac.

[pim]

I believe the lamb that grazes in the salt-marshes near the coast, known as lamb pre-sale (pronounced pray-suhLAY, and spelled with accent aigues and such in French) is a specialty, though I have not had a chance to taste it.

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The Pré-salé lamb is fantastic. Our old friend Degusto recently posted on it at his and Vedat's new blog, Gastroville.

I'm going to Rollinger in next week. I've heard many good things, but haven't been there myself, so I am understandably very excited.

Edited April 13, 2005 by pim (log)

[chefzadi]

It's been too long since I've been to Bretagne to reccomend specific places. But the cooking here is very simple, rustic. The region isn't known for alot culinary depth, but the things they do that have already been mentioned upthread are done exceptionally well.

It's one of my favorite regions of France. First time I saw a beach.

Photos of Bretagne.

[Bux]

Zadi, you'd be surprised at the sophistication one can now find in Breton restaurants. My first visit there was in the sixties when thatched roofs were common and quaint headresses were worn by old ladies dressed in black. Nowadays, one rarely sees a thatched roof except in ecomuseums or on top of some super expensive summer home. Brittany is less quaint and less rustic than it used to be. Alas the world is becoming more homogenized, but Brittany still has its charms. It also has it's first class haute cuisine restaurants, but I've found Roellinger to be the one the one under rated chef.

Pim, I'll love to hear of your meal at Roellinger because it's been a while since we've been able to get back. On our most recent trips to Brittany, we've been occupied with family affairs on the south coast. I have to say that every time we've tried another place in Brittany, I've been at least a bit disappointed it wasn't Roellinger's. I hope you can confirm that it's still the destination in Brittany.

[zeitoun]

I would recommend a visit to the beautiful city of Concarneau (it's not too far from Lorient). I was there last I think 15 years ago but still have wonderful memories of my visit. Concarneau is one of the main fishing ports in France, and obviously is big on everything that has to do with fish, it is the place where I saw for the first time a live "La Criee" sale which is where fish right off the boat is sold at auction to wholesalers, it is an amazing sight!! It is also where I found out how big tunas can get when they were off loading them from boats with giant cranes! I'm not sure what kind of fishing activity you'll find around June but the fish market itself is definitely worth a visit.

Edited April 13, 2005 by zeitoun (log)

[chefzadi]

Concarneau was where I was! I saw a postcard somewhere showing the place I stayed at.

Brittany is less quaint and less rustic than it used to be. Alas the world is becoming more homogenized, but Brittany still has its charms. It also has it's first class haute cuisine restaurants, but I've found Roellinger to be the one the one under rated chef.

I was there 19 years ago. I would think things have changed. If it becomes too sophisticated though I'll have to change my plans for retirement there.

I'm very curious about Roellinger's use of spices. I'm looking forward to PIM's report.

[SuzySushi]

Oh, and if you're into sweet liqueurs, try Chouchen, the Breton version of mead. I can't recommend a brand because the best one we had was homemade. Most creperies sell it by the glass, along with cidre.

[Carlovski]

Cheers Guys - Crepes and Cider don't sound too bad!

Forgot about June (Actually going to be late June/early July now) not being good for oysters :(

I'll try and grab some of the biscuits and pastries, and a tub of sea salt (Although I'm more of a Maldon guy myself).

Roellinger might be a bit out of our price bracket, and some of my companions might not be too keen (Plus it's the other side of Brittany).

Have to try Cotriade somewhere though - sounds up my street, fishy and rustic.

[Laidback]

My palate/pallet mate and I spent 3 Sept. days in Bretagne, using the Hotel l'Ecrin in Plancoët as our base. A veteran habitué of several internet sites featuring restaurant reviews, Mme Underhill, suggested strongly that we not only stay at l'Ecrin, but dine at the excellent reataurant there, Jean-Pierre Crouzil. She has my eternal gratitude, as this is probably our #2 all-time favorite restaurant in this area of France, exceeded only by the nearby, Olivier Roellinger, but not by much when price is factored in. We had 3 meals there and never hit a flat note. The cote de veau was as good as I remember, including that of my afore mentioned mate. John Talbott has a "can I cook it better at home" test and it passed gloriously.

Langoustine salad in an artichoke heart also won my heart.

Pears were in season and one offering was an extravaganza of pear soufflé, sorbet and poached pear.

Mignardises tend to be overkill but the pristine simplicity of these was hard to resist and resistance is not my strong suit.

[Laidback]

Although the interest in my post was essentially nil, in fact it vies for the all-time record low "views" in France forum history, I thought perhaps the 1 or 2 people that saw it may be interested in the prices. Our room was Aigue Marine which was very large, going from front to back of the building and had a large, modern bathroom and cost €120/night. Breakfast was €15 and was quite an extravaganza. The veal dish pictured was part of a €60 menu that included an amuse bouche, entrée, main dish, dessert and the beautiful mignardises.

[CarolineLD]

Not nil, honestly! My parents live in that area of Brittany, so I've been thinking of eating there and really appreciated the info, as well as the great photos. Definitely on my 'must try' list now.

Caroline

[bleudauvergne]

Sorry that I was not one of the people who checked in on this thread, Laidback, since your photos were wonderful. That looks like a great meal for €60. I love the pears served in different ways. To me this brings out the many facets of one ingredient. I take it the mignardises were served with coffee? Interesting panel of sugar dusted at the top of the black plate. I think I might try that sometime. What kind of wine did you drink? Thank you for sharing this meal with us, it's lovely.

[Laidback]

Hi Bleu,

The mignardises were indeed served with the café, and we too thought the powdered sugar dusted plate was an interesting idea. As you know, Bretagne is not a wine producing area, so we chose a red Menetou-Salon, since we had just spent 2 weeks in the Sancerre area, and had come to appreciate the red Menetous for their rapport qualité/prix. Any photos I post are a direct result of your patient coaching last Spring.

Caroline, try it, you'll like it!

[Abra]

We're planning a 10 day driving tour of Bretagne in April, so I'd really appreciate any updates/additions to the excellent information already in this thread.

[kitwilliams]

We're planning a 10 day driving tour of Bretagne in April, so I'd really appreciate any updates/additions to the excellent information already in this thread.

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Abra:

Coincidentally, my boyfriend and his two brothers are returning tomorrow from ten days in Brittany. I can't wait to hear the details, as I've always wanted to spend time there, and I'll post some of their tips soon.

Lucky you!

[julot-les-pinceaux]

I went to Roellinger's last november. Here are report and pictures. It is probably my favourite restaurant today, though a very special one.

[Margaret Pilgrim]

We're planning a 10 day driving tour of Bretagne in April, so I'd really appreciate any updates/additions to the excellent information already in this thread.

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Abra, we were delighted with the warm reception, lovely room and extraordinary evening meal at Chateau du Mont Dol a few km south of the bay between Cancale and Mont St. Michel. Our table for four was set before a cozy fire and the meal that ensued was perfect. I learned in the morning that our host had been head chef at the French Embassy in London before returning to Bretagne. A word of warning: if you plan to dine in, you must reserve in advance. (Rooms for 2 are 65 and 70€; the multi-course evening meal is 30€, aperitif and wine included.)

On the same visit, we enjoyed a lovely night at Roellinger's Les Rimains guest house and fabulous lunch at the restaurant.

You will love Britagne.

[insomniac]

Abra, must agree wholeheartedly with Margaret Pilgrim's two recommendations. I would like to add the small hotel Ti al Lannec....beautiful situation on the sea (well, a walk down a slope) delightful rooms and excellent food...our son was not feeling the best and the kitchen served him a simple consomme and fish not on the menu, couldn't have been more accommodating and friendly and they have a HUGE French-type jolie laid dog called Petit Loup, never seen a bigger (very gentle) dog in my life and we are all very tall!

love Bretagne

[Abra]

The Chateau du Mont Dol, looks really nice. I had a look at the Roellinger site and jeepers, it's expensive! My poor benighted husband doesn't like shellfish, so I think it would probably be wasted on him, although I'd do it for a splurge myself.

Would Chateau du Mont Dol seem like a good place to spend about 3 days while exploring all around that part of Bretagne?

If anyone has other small, homey, typical places to recommend, I think that's more likel;y to be our style for this trip.

Edited February 12, 2008 by Abra (log)

[Margaret Pilgrim]

Would Chateau du Mont Dol seem like a good place to spend about 3 days while exploring all around that part of Bretagne?

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We spent 2 nights there and more would have been lovely. From there we visited Mont St. Michel, Cancale harbor, St. Malo and St. Suliac, but didn't have time to visit equally close Dinan. I'd go back for 3 days in a heartbeat. I'd also reserve for at least 2 dinners and do the tourist thing at lunch. Edited February 12, 2008 by Margaret Pilgrim (log)

[Dave Hatfield]

simple, but you could do a lot worse.

Don't miss Quimper, its a lovely town.

& of course there's always the good old Logis de France site with tons of choices.

We had a great time last July staying at a gite right on the coast with kids & grandkids.

Tell your husband not to miss the draft cider! That'll mellow any sticker shock.