Lolita

[Andrew Fenton]

So after Pizza Club on Sunday I walked by Lolita, the new upscale Mexican BYO across from Capogiro and El Vez. Decided I'd give it a try at first opportunity, so we headed on over there last night.

We started off with some guacamole con totopos mixtos: very nice fresh guacamole with a whole buncha fried dipping stuff. You got your sweet potatoes. You got your plantains. You got your taro. And yes, you got your corn chips.

About that time we also ordered a pitcher of margarita mix. Fresh squeezed, good quality, though a little sweeter than I like it (I'm all about the sour margaritas); you bring your own tequila, natch. We were in a festive mood, so the margaritas were oh, so very strong. Because why drink a margarita that doesn't put hair on your chest? I ask you.

Appetizer numero dos was ceviche: thin- sliced sea scallops and li'l chunks of lobster, swimming in a coconut-lime broth, with some cilantro and pineapple. I tend to be wary of ceviche, because all too often it's overly acidic, and overwhelms the fish (and everything else.) But this was just right; the coconut accented the sweetness of the shellfish, and the cilantro (culantro? I guess there's a difference, but I can't tell) provides an herbal fragrance to it.

Finished margarita pitcher #1. Ordered #2 about this point. Things started getting more... festive. Anyway, this was the blue guava margarita. What's the difference, you ask? Well, it's two dollars more. I couldn't tell if it actually tasted different. But it was festive, oh yes it was.

I had the lomo de cordero con mole rojo Oaxaqueno. That'd be the lamb, buddy, crusted with sesame and cumin, grilled medium-rare, and served with a mole sauce and frijoles borrachos on the side. The cumin/sesame combination works well with the mole; the toasted seeds sorta blend in with the nutty flavor from the sauce. And I'm all about beans. Any time, any place.

Beth had the chicken & mushroom enchiladas, with a green mole. Spicier than the lamb, but sorta less exciting. They were goooooood, but not greeeeeeeaaaat. I just like the enchiladas at Plaza Garibaldi just as well, and they're like half the price. I'd say, stick with their fancy-schmancy hipster BYOB offerings.

One of our dining companions had the carne asada, which looked great. Didn't try it, though.

And we didn't get dessert... as I said, Capogiro's right across the street. I bet that Lolita's gonna have a hard time doing a lot of dessert business, actually. I tried to make a case for ending things with a round of tequila shots, but was shot down. Probably that was for the best, all things considered.

[KatieLoeb]

Andrew:

Sounds like a "festive" time was had by all.

Can we presume both by your reappearance on eGullet and the tequila soaked festivities of last night that you did indeed turn in the thesis today on schedule?

Rock on Dr. Fentonstein!!!

[Andrew Fenton]

Can we presume both by your reappearance on eGullet and the tequila soaked festivities of last night that you did indeed turn in the thesis today on schedule?

Yup. Deposited the ddiss ("The extra 'D' is for 'Damn, that took a long time!'") this afternoon. And now I'm back, hooray!

[sara]

Congrats Andrew! Me too--I deposited on Tuesday. Two new Dr. Egulleteers!

[Sartain]

Coming out of lurkville to second the Dr.'s praise of Lolita. When I heard that it had opened in the neighborhood I had to go try it (in support of the BYOB gutsy enough to open catty-corner from Mr. Starr and serving the same general type of cuisine). So I did about two weeks ago.

I had the guacamole as well, and the tamales too. I liked their guacamole better than the one at La Lupe, but I would say Lolita serves as good a tamale as La Lupe. For the main course I had the juicy and tender pork chop that will definitely be worth a re-visit.

As to desserts, while I whole-heartedly agree that Capogiro will put a damper on the business, Lolita's offerings do add variety. I tried the coconut pie and my dinner companion had the mexican chocolate flan. The coconut pie - really more of a coconut tart - had a flaky crust, a coconut milky custard with bits of coconut which is a nice complement to the subtle heat of the meal. The mexican chocolate flan had a healthy dose of Kalua in it, but was a bit dense for my taste. Next time, I'll give the traditional tres leches a try.

Eat well, folks.

Steph

[KatieLoeb]

Go Sara!!!

Woo-hoo! TWO new Dr. eGulletarians in Philly.

We're getting just a bit too smart for ourselves, aren't we? Soon the PA forum will be the intellectual epicenter of eGullet!

[sara]

Well, I'll unfortunately have to be moving to the Wisconsin (Heartland) forum in a few months... talk about Philly brain-drain!

[Andrew Fenton]

Congratulations, Sara! WI will treat you well...

[Andrew Fenton]

Coming out of lurkville to second the Dr.'s praise of Lolita.  When I heard that it had opened in the neighborhood I had to go try it (in support of the BYOB gutsy enough to open catty-corner from Mr. Starr and serving the same general type of cuisine).  So I did about two weeks ago.

Word to that. Pretty ballsy move. On the other hand, it's a different level of experience from El Vez (I'm basing this on reports rather than first hand knowledge) and will appeal to a slightly different niche. And hell, plenty of businesses do fine with other similar places right near them. Think of Pat's and Geno's, after all...

Likewise, it's sort of an apples/oranges comparison with La Lupe, Veracruzana, etc. They'll will always be my go-to spots for some hot quick taco action. But I'll probably take my parents to Lolita.

[edit: subject-verb agreeement. It's a good thing.]

Edited April 23, 2004 by Andrew Fenton (log)

[rlibkind]

Well, I'll unfortunately have to be moving to the Wisconsin (Heartland) forum in a few months... talk about Philly brain-drain!

Hey, but you can get Kringle and Brats and Butter Burgers and Real Custard in Wisconsin! Try to find those in Philadelphia!

[sara]

Went with friends to check out Lolita last night and HECK YEAH this place is good!

We thoroughly enjoyed two pitchers of margaritas (got some great Two Fingers tequila at the state store for $14.99--sure beats Cuervo), the guacamole (which was fine, but a little bland), that awesome ceviche Andrew described earlier, the pork carnitas (crispy pork, homemade tortillas, guac), and tamales con mole rojo. Everything but the guac was totally ON.

The service was a bit inept-- one dish was forgotten, timing was all off, the server said I could take a paper menu home and then changed her mind after I'd folded it and put it in my purse...But the room was lively, the chef was visible in her open kitchen, and our wait (on a Saturday night arriving at 8 pm) was only about 20 min.

One friend got tres leches for dessert, but I opted for orange and cardamom gelato across the street.

I'll definitely be going back to Lolita SOON for entrees...And btw, their bright red Lolita take-home bags are worth the price of dinner alone!!

[rockhopper]

I had the lomo de cordero con mole rojo Oaxaqueno.  That'd be the lamb, buddy, crusted with sesame and cumin, grilled medium-rare, and served with a mole sauce and frijoles borrachos on the side. 

With 2 pitchers under your belts it looks like not only the frijoles were borracho.

[aliwaks]

Choose Lotita for my Birthday dinner, and what a great choice. First I walked in in my high high heels and a tiara and our waiter nearly hugged me. LOVE THAT. Lewis was charming and wonderful and totally made it great, but most importantly on to the food.

The hostess sat us even though usually they wait for the whole party (3 out of 7 had arrived), but I suppose a 6' tall girl in a tiara waiving a bottle of herradura silver is not to be argued with.

We started with Guacamole & watermelon wild mint margaritas. The guac was good, I would have liked a bit more salt and a bit more acid, but lovely green and creamy with a great assortment of crunchies to go with. Also think they should have brought out the two fabuloous salsas with it (these appeared after the third order of guac was demolished). Cilantro tomatillo and raosted tomato chipolte I believe.

For appetizers we ordered:

The lobster/scallop ceviche

carnitas

tamales

goat cheese beet salad

a duck app as well.

Everything was delish, I loved the carnitas though absolutely indistinguishable btw those and the duck, they came with a tangle of roasted onions, more of the guac lovely corn torillas wrapped in a warm cotton napkin and something else (many margaritas and champagne was consumed so details are a bit blurry)

The Ceviche was also so good, could have used a bit more spice but huge lovely chunks of lobster and scallop (can't remember the exact price but it was way reasonable)

The Tamales yum and the salad aslo very very nice roasted beets, crunchy pepitas well dressed.

Entrees:

There are two dishes I cannot recall at all, but 2 of us had the pork chop whihc was GREAT!!!!, there was one steak which looked gorgeous and very very tender. I had the lamb in a green mole redolent of cinnamon. It was not the best looking dish the green mole looked kind of well green and lumpy it was so very good but a sprinkling of salt would have boosted it to great (there was no salt on the table) The other dish I can remember was a seafood Paella I think that Katie had, also so good warm and winey and HUGE.

We skipped dessert, though I thought they would send us out a token B-day dessert they didn't which was slightly dissapointing but overall the whole experienc was great, Friendly lively fun service all in all would go back in a minute.

Also not to pricey for 7 people $275 including tip, about 4 pitchers of margarita mix were consumed and the whole bottle of herradura I am proud to say

[KatieLoeb]

Am in agreement with Ali about how great Lolita was. Nice place for a celebratory dinner, and just a nice place in general. Enjoyed everything I tried, and my only complaint would be similar - the food lacks salt. But that's easily remedied, you just have to ask for a salt shaker since they aren't readily on the table. And that's far better than the usual heavy handed alternative in my opinion. Perhaps having some hot sauce of some sort on the table would be a good thing too (I love the Chouloula sauce they have at Qdoba) but might be a tad too downscale or tacky for them, and I'd understand that. Maybe some form of housemade alternative that wasn't as thick as the delicious salsas that Ali mentioned? Just an idea...

The margarita mixes were delicious and a brilliant idea for a Mexican-themed BYOT. I particularly found the Watermelon-Wild Mint quite refreshing. I found the food while not "authentic" Mexican in the way that Tequila's is upscale or La Lupe/Veracruzana are downscale, certainly had the appropriate respect for the very fresh ingredients and techniques. Not so out there that (con)Fusion cuisine would be a word I'd apply either. They got it just right.

I will most certainly be back at Lolita some time in the near future. It's definitely on my new favorite BYOB places short list.

[mrbigjas]

Enjoyed everything I tried, and my only complaint would be similar - the food lacks salt.  But that's easily remedied, you just have to ask for a salt shaker since they aren't readily on the table.

Yeah, or bring your own little packet of salt that... OK no.

Perhaps having some hot sauce of some sort on the table would be a good thing too (I love the Chouloula sauce they have at Qdoba) but might be a tad too downscale or tacky for them, and I'd understand that.

El Yucateco should be on every table in town, as far as I'm concerned.

[Yannii]

i went about a week ago, and had a nice meal overall. the standout for me was the steak which came with scrumptous fried yucca and a creamy manchego and corn sauce. heavenly. also delicious was the watermelon and mint margarita mix. we had the carnitas (pork) appetizer, pretty good, not as good as vericruzana's though. we tried the beet, plantain and goat cheese salad. all the ingredients were tasty, but i didn't feel the flavors and textures really complemented each other that well. our service was rushed, akward and uninterested, but we didn't care, i'll definetly be back, that yucca is calling me!

[sara]

Went to Lolita for a quiet Sunday dinner last night. The place was nearly empty when we arrived at 5:30, which was a relief because it was so loud last time. Had the wonderful margaritas, and the lamb loin-- which was great with the green mole, sweet plaintains...my friend had the seafood stew--very nice. I really like this place--it's the right price, the right vibe, good food, and I love stopping my Capogiro afterwards (last night it was for honeysuckle gelato that I swear has strands of honeysuckle in it!).

ps. Lolita is now accepting reservations Sunday-Thursday.

Edited June 14, 2004 by sara (log)

[sara]

Went back to Lolita recently. Here are a few piks of the wonderful food we enjoyed-- these are the lamb and duck entrees.

[Greg Salisbury]

Actually managed to go out to a dinner last night that did not involve high chairs, noodles and screaming. That in itself would have been sufficient enough to be deemed a great time . But I'm really here to post about the food. Marcie and her assistant turned out an amazing meal for the four of us: sopes (three different kinds) were much smaller than I have ever had, but so much better; the masa shells were so obviously made fresh that I will never be able to order these again, now that I know what they're supposed to taste like. carnitas with warm tortillas: some of the ebst-prepared pork I have ever had, orangey-chocolatey, with enough guac and salsa to make a nice soft taquito. Guac: good and fresh, but I like it with a lot more lime and chile. Smoked salmon: good, but what's a nice Jewish boy supposed to say about tequila-lime nova?

Lamb two ways: really, really, really good. Braised leg, super tender and darkly spicy. Grilled loin: right to temp and flavorful. The star was the huitlacoche stuffing. I love that someone uses huitlacoche and you can actually taste it! Tenderloin of beef: I refuse to ever put filet on my menu because I believe it is one of the biggest hoaxes ever perpetrated on the dining public, so no comment. Duck: excellent, I think it might have been brined it was so moist. Tamarind sauce executed very, very well. Snapper Veracruzana: best version I have had in this country.

Margarita mix: only tried the traditional, and it was excellent.

I think that to call Lolita a Mexican restaurant is to do it a disservice. Unfortunately, the perception of East Coasters, when they think "Mexican Restaurant," is lowest common denominator fare: tacos, burritos, flautas, etc. There is a nascent movement to change that perception thanks to burgeoning scenes like the one around the Italian Market, but the fact remains. Lolita is to Mexican restaurants as the Eagles are to the Sixers. Just a great damn restaurant that happens to serve Mexican cuisine.

[rlibkind]

Smoked salmon: good, but what's a nice Jewish boy supposed to say about tequila-lime nova?

For about a dozen years I've occassionally varied my gravlax recipe by sprinkling some Tequila over the fish instead of Aquavit. It works wonders!

[KatieLoeb]

Smoked salmon: good, but what's a nice Jewish boy supposed to say about tequila-lime nova?

If the alternative is Manishewitz/Lime Nova, I'd say pass the platter.

Congrats on getting out of the house!

For about a dozen years I've occassionally varied my gravlax recipe by sprinkling some Tequila over the fish instead of Aquavit. It works wonders!

I've used a wee bit of Cognac instead of vodka on my gravlax and it's delicious. I can't imagine that tequila wouldn't add an interesting twist to the flavor.

[rlibkind]

She Who Must Be Obeyed and I finally got to Lolita's last night, and it was superb. Her guac was clean and fresh (which is all you can ask a guac to be, unless you top it with pomegranite seeds, as does Barrio Cafe in Phoenix), and the assorted freshly fried veg and corn chips great. SWMBO dug into the spicer red salsa; I liked it, too, and but I also enjoyed the more herbal tomatillo version.

I ordred the tamale for a starter and was not disappointed. In fact, it's as good as any tamal I've had anywhere else, including the SW and both upscale and downscale Chicago Mexicans); put enough fungal material in corn meal and lard and I'll follow you anywhere.

For mains SWMBO raved about special filet tips. I thoroughly enjoyed the lamb loin with its thin cheese glazing and, even more, the spicy braised lamb on the plate. For $21 you won't have as good a lamb feast anywhere else, except perhap some Greek style shanks.

We opted for the seasonal special margarita mix to accompany our Tequila and Cointreau; it was blood orange and was not overly sweet.

We will return!

Dessert was across the street at Capogira: pumpkin/bitter chocolate for her, cinnamon/bitter chocolate for me. As SWMBO remarked about the bitter chocolate: Let it melt and you can use it as . . . ice cream topping!

[davidbdesilva]

Well, we finally made it to this lovely restaurant and I must say we were VERY impressed. The space is very nice and has a great vibe. It is small but we never thought it got too loud or crowded, though we were sitting close to the table of 6 next to us. Now we are not big fans of Mexican food but loved the food at Lolita. For apps we had the two specials, the guacamole, salsa and tomatillo with chips and fried plantains and the squash soup, both very large and very good.

The entrees stole the show though. We had the lamb (loin and shoulder) and the beef tenderloin (both $23 and quite a bargain, the most expensive entrees on the menu). The lamb was tender and cooked to perfection, as was the incredibly tender beef, which was a bit zippy as well. We skipped desserts and hit Capogiro instead. I must admit that I was not that impressed with the pitcher of passion fruit/mint magarita's that we had and for $12 would probably skip that when we go again. I also bought a bottle of excellent Jumillo that I found in the state store that day, which went perfectly with the lamb and beef. For $78 (without tip) we thought it was reasonably priced, especially for the quality of the food. We both agreed that we would return and soon!

[sara]

Still singing this place's praises. Went Friday night with 6 new yorkers and chicago natives who were convinced philly mex would be a salsa cheesesteak. Wow did Lolita prove them wrong! Those pork carnitas really sing, the the veal cheeks were slow-cooked and spicy. And that bread pudding, wow. This is a great place to take out-of-towners and convince them there's much new in Philly worth checking out.

[katbert]

off the restaurant week menu last night, we tried:

seared skirt steak tostada, refried beans, guacamole, smoky

morita chile salsa, crema

-- looked like a big chip in that hard taco C shape, filled with beef and topped with a high pile of frisée.

yucatan style shrimp, scallop and crab ceviche, roasted pico de gallo,

aged tequila, avocado, cilantro, lime

-- a lot of hard to identify seafood in a soup of the curing marinade, with a few chips alongside and a giant fried plantain chip on top. Not so attractive, but tasty and bright flavors, and the crunchiness contrasted well with the seafood. One of my friends asked to try something that wasn't an invertebrate. I let her pick out whatever she wanted. *shrug*

grilled butterfish, roasted west indian pumpkin and heirloom squash,

green pumpkin seed sauce, crispy parsnip

-- again the green sauce on top of the fish was not so attractive, but the flavors were great. The fish was just done and the toasted pumpkinseeds added a crunchy contrast to the smoothness of the fish and the veggies. There was another unidentified sauce at the bottom of the plate that involved a lot of butter. Great.

a seared beef steak w/ crispy onions? on chorizo mashed potatoes

--nicely rare and meltingly tender beef, the mashed was a hit also

chocolate “three milks cake”, coffee-kahlua cream, bittersweet chocolate

pot de crème, toasted almonds

--my friend thinks that there was some chile in the pot, which is totally possible. I'm not a tres leches cake kind of person, although I've only tried it here and at veracruzana, so I wasn't too excited.

pecan cheesecake, green meadow farm goats’ milk caramel,

dark chocolate-ancho chile crust

--I loved this (creamy cheesecake, dollop of unsweetened whipped cream on top, pool of caramel on the plate) while one of my friends found it disappointing- didn't like the ancho burn in the crust, expected more pecanness (there were only a few pecans sprinkled around).

There was another dessert choice of crème brûlée replacing the bread pudding on the menu, but we didn't try it.

The restaurant was packed the entire time we were there, and they rolled through it pretty well, although the table behind us had an issue with part of their party not showing up or being terrifically late. Service: cheerful and attentive despite the crowd. Noise: loud.