We had an amazing surprise birthday party dinner for Dave H at Bite Club last night. Here's our menu-
Amuse: Butternut squash and apple soup/ Peanut butter cookie and foie gras sandwich
What an amazing start to the meal! They've demonstrated at both Avenues and Tailor that foie and peanut butter are an awesome pairing, and D & A have managed to find a delicious bite sized way to do this pairing. This soup was really wintry but also very light. I wanted to steal the shot glass of everyone around me.
1) Endive Salad: pomegranate vinaigrette, lemon creme microchives
Schloss Gobelsburg Renner Gruner Veltliner 2005
This salad is leaf endive with pomegranate seeds and a lemon creme. The endive is lightly dressed with a vinaigrette that has just enough sweetness and acid to really make the salad come together. The seeds added a really lovely crunch. The Gruner was a perfect pairing. It was a nice light way start a meal.
2) Beet Ravioli: red & gold beets, brown butter, parmegiano, microgreens
Cantina del Castello Soave Classico 2006
This is the only course that I chose to repeat on the menu because Dave H and I were at another Bite Club dinner where we fell in love with it (we had recently been to L'Arpege and it reminded us of some of the courses there). The last version that we had at Bite Club was a traditional cazunziei; this version incorporated microgreens. The greens gave the dish a nice fresh lightness and really worked. The beets themselves were awesome and it really showed in the dish. I loved it just as much as the first time.
3) Black Cod: currant mushroom salad, jerusalem artichoke puree
Chatenay Montlouis La Vallee 2005
The sunchoke puree was a last minute change because salsify wasn't available- and Dave H happens to have a sunchoke obsession. Ms. A promised me that these were some of the nicest sunchokes she'd ever seen and judging by the taste she was completely right. This puree was so sweet and lovely. The fish had a perfectly crisped skin that contrasted wonderfully with the soft flesh of the fish and the silky sunchoke puree. D & A invented this one for this dinner, but it should definitely be a keeper. The mushroom salad was earthy and added a necessary third element to the dish. Really really nice.
4) Bacon & Eggs: 5 spice carmelized pork belly, poached duck egg, anson mills grits
Janasse Chateauneuf du Pape Vielle Vignes 2004
Ok, I mean, just re-reading the elements of this dish makes me drool. Ms. A searched the world for the last duck eggs of the season and they were so worthwhile. Something about the yolk of the duck egg with the fat of the pork belly and the grittiness (is gritty a fair description for grits?) of the mascarpone grits was just phenomenal. D & A really know how to cook pork. This dish had an underlying sweetness but enough salt to feel really decadent and balanced. I only wish that I had woken up to a second portion of this in the morning. Oh, and the chaeauneuf du pape- omg. Wow.
5) Tasting of Cheese: Ossau Vielle Cave, Affinage; Aged Goat Gouda; Chaput, Grand Foin, La Serena, Rogue River Blue
Oddero Barolo Mondoca Di Bussia Soprana 2003
The Affinage was grassy and sweet, a nice starter cheese. It was followed by an aged goat that was carmelized and delicious, with lots of those wonderful crystals. The Chaput had a spruce rind, giving it an earthy foresty taste but with a really creamy interior (I'm not sure this one paired perfectly with the Barolo but I really liked it). The La Serena was a bold move for a cheese plate, but this is really an awesome and stinky cheese. We've enjoyed this one before and we enjoyed it again. Finally, the Rogue River Blue, which is really great. This cheese is wrapped in local grape leaves that have macerated for an entire year in pear eau-de-vie. Some of the blue is natural, while some is added in. It's a really complex and delicious blue and very nice with the Barolo. This Barolo is drinking really nicely now, and I'd love to taste it in another 3 or 4 years when it will really hit it's peak.
6) Foie Gras: cider spice poached pear, star anise caramel, gingerbread, cacao nibs
Chat Filhot 2001
Since Dave H is a foie freak and both of us love savory desserts, Ms. A and I talked about doing a foie dessert. Dave H and I have had D & A's poached pear dessert and found it fantastic, but this really took it to the next level. The slice of foie was incredibly silky and soft, heated in a way that created some carmelization, which played off the star anise caramel so nicely. The gingerbread cookie added a tiny bit of gingery spice. Wow. This Sauternes was given a 90 by Robert Parker and I really was in love. It had this incredible crisp lightness that was just so welcome after the decadent courses that came before. This course was traditional and new at the same time.
7) Frozen Cayenne Chocolate Tart: candied pepper
Marenco Brachetto D'Acqui
Wow. Ms. A and I worked on the conception of this one together. I wanted a little taste of dark chocolate that would wrap up the meal but I thought a little spice would keep it from being too simple and boring. Ms. A and D did such an incredible job putting it together. The chocolate tarte was rich and luscious but the cayenne gave it just enough kick. The sweet brachetto was a perfect pairing and just the right ending to the meal. Oh, and the pepper. This was no joke of a pepper. The pepper had been dipped in a sugar coating, but it packed serious punch. Some of our guests made a show of eating two, but most people could only handle a bite or two. Dave H and I both loved ours.
I cannot say enough about what amazing hosts D & A were. Ms. A and I spent months conceiving the dishes, making adjustments to the ingredients for seasonality and availability and creating a flow for the meal that would make sense. We had 20 guests at the dinner and everyone was floored by how good the food was. Many of our guests were not foodies, but everyone had a great time and really enjoyed all of the dishes. We had one pescatarian and one person allergic to fish, and both were treated to substitutions that inspired jealousy in the people on either side of them. The fish substitution was an elk tartare with french fries that a few people at our table (myself included) wanted to steal. Luckily she shared. I also managed to get a taste of the shrimp curry in pumpkin that was given to the pescatarian in lieu of pork belly. While I'm not about to trade in my share of that pork belly for shrimp and pumpkin, it was delicious. Our non-meat-eating friend devoured every bite. Everything was accessible to all of the guests, but really exciting for those of us who are foodies. The progression of the meal was wonderful and most of us managed to have room for everything. Each dish showed a real attention to detail and a ton of creativity. D & A took all of my ideas really seriously and translated them into a truly amazing meal. They're incredible hosts and extremely talented chefs.
The wine pairings were done by Ian Dorin of Wine Library and he did a fantastic job. Their prices were great and Ian worked very closely with me to come up with wines that would be interesting but safe enough to pair well with dishes that neither he or I had ever tasted. I was very impressed with the prices and service from Wine Library. They're just over the bridge in New Jersey and I would highly recommend a visit, but if you can't make it there they have a huge mail order business. While they don't shy away from selling what the average customer wants (Beringer, Yellowtail), they also have tons of wine from small producers and really interesting wines from all over the world. The owner of the store, Gary Vaynerchuk, has a wine tasting show (wine library tv) and is extremely active in attending wine events, tasting wines, pairing wines and traveling to find new wines. This is a store with passionate people and it really shows.
http://winelibrary.com/
I highly recommend using Bite Club for a private event or making a reservation for dinner. They will have a new space soon and will have even more capacity to make their delicious food.
http://www.nybiteclub.com/