I re-read Lauren Chapin's review of
Phillips Chophouse. I have to admit, I never sat down to fully read this until now. The only thing I had noticed a few weeks ago (has it been a month?) when I glanced at the article was the first line:
"After two wonderful meals..."
But, now, I've read every sentence leading up to the last... here's some of what happens in-between:
"The dish was an embarrassment of riches... The rich and mineral-y pork fell off the bone in two-bite chunks."
Tell me, anyone, what is "mineral-y pork?" I'm not trying to be snarly, I simply am confused by this statement.
"Shortcomings were easily summerized: Hardiman hasn't mastered rice and risottos. All three times I tried a rice dish... the rice was undercooked..."
Okay, fair observation...
"There were a few other quibbles: The Hollandaise sauce on the steak Oscar had no lemon taste..."
Sure, this too makes sense...
"While the tableside presentation [of a pineapple flambe] was well-executed... the final product was unwieldly. Served in an elegant but asymmetrical bowl and a spoon, the hot slices of pineapple immediately melted the honey ice cream. I had to snatch a fork and knife from the empty talbe next to me to carve into pineapple."
I'd have to agree with her here - I hate it when ice cream melts before you eat it - AND when there's not adequate service ware ready!!
BUT - here's the kicker - the last sentence of the review:
"But all these misstemps seem ones of finesse and experience and not raw talent and vision."
Undercooked rice (on three tries), non-lemon Hollandaise, and serving a freshly flambeed chunk of pineapple in a bowl with ice cream with nothing but a spoon to eat it with is not my idea of finesse or experience... that doesn't even seem like raw talent.
Edited to add: FWIW, she gave it 3 stars.
This post has been edited by ulterior epicure: 26 October 2006 - 03:07 PM