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Cooking & Curing from "Charcuterie": 2005-08 sausages, terrines, cured meats

#2161 User is offline   snowangel

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Posted 16 November 2006 - 10:57 PM

piperdown, on Nov 16 2006, 11:37 PM, said:

That makes sense, thanks jason.

Has any one made the garlic sausage before? After teh stuffing the book says to cook to 150, but in other recipes the book says to freeze or refrigerate until ready to cook. Does that mena these whould be cooked right away, and then kept? I don't think it's right to grill or roast all these sausage and then store them. Or would poaching be proper.

I did grill some up today though and served them with the staff meal, and they were mighty tasty. Also I jsut got the call that my fat back is in, so I think the next project will be the chicken and basil sausage. Damn ths suff is too fun to make, even when I'm making it a disaster, I still just want to make more.
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When I made these, I smoked some of them (to please my husband) and froze the rest of them, uncooked, and we grilled them.
Susan Fahning aka "snowangel"

#2162 User is offline   Abra

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Posted 18 November 2006 - 06:10 PM

Michael, I have a question. Today I started some maple-cured bacon with half a pork belly, and having already stolen the rind from the other half to make daube, I needed to use half a skinless belly. I made Jim Drohman's pork belly confit, and as I was pouring a bottle of wine over the meat I got to thinking about the cooked wine thing again.

I'm pretty convinced that it's a good thing to cook wine before using it in marinade, but this recipe didn't call for that. Is it that the salt will get the wine into the meat, even though the acids might "cook" the surface? Or is it that the belly is at least half fat, which is not likely to be "cooked" by the wine? Or something else? The mouse of doubt is gnawing at me over this one!

If anyone besides Michael wants to weigh in on this one, of course, have at it!

#2163 User is offline   Bombdog

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Posted 20 November 2006 - 12:47 PM

Well, after what seems like a long time, I FINALLY think I got the coppa right.

Posted Image

Hot in the foreground, and sweet in the back. Both recipes from the book.


Posted Image

After removing the collagen casings, sweet on the left, hot on the right.
Dave Valentin
Retired Explosive Detection K9 Handler
"So, what if we've got it all backwards?" asks my son.
"Got what backwards?" I ask.
"What if chicken tastes like rattlesnake?" My son, the Einstein of the family.


#2164 User is offline   dls

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Posted 20 November 2006 - 12:57 PM

Bombdog, on Nov 20 2006, 12:47 PM, said:

Well, after what seems like a long time, I FINALLY think I got the coppa right.

Posted Image

Hot in the foreground, and sweet in the back.  Both recipes from the book.


Posted Image

After removing the collagen casings, sweet on the left, hot on the right.
View Post


Looks beautiful. How's the taste?

#2165 User is offline   Bombdog

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Posted 20 November 2006 - 01:14 PM

dls, on Nov 20 2006, 02:57 PM, said:

Looks beautiful. How's the taste?
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Great flavor, reminiscent of the lomo I did a few months ago. I'm quite satisfied with it.
Dave Valentin
Retired Explosive Detection K9 Handler
"So, what if we've got it all backwards?" asks my son.
"Got what backwards?" I ask.
"What if chicken tastes like rattlesnake?" My son, the Einstein of the family.


#2166 User is offline   dls

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Posted 20 November 2006 - 01:21 PM

Bombdog, on Nov 20 2006, 01:14 PM, said:

dls, on Nov 20 2006, 02:57 PM, said:

Looks beautiful. How's the taste?
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Great flavor, reminiscent of the lomo I did a few months ago. I'm quite satisfied with it.
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Glad to hear it. I've not yet done the coppa. You've inspired me to give it a go. Did you follow the recipe from the book verbatim, or did you make any alterations?

#2167 User is offline   Bombdog

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Posted 20 November 2006 - 01:49 PM

dls, on Nov 20 2006, 03:21 PM, said:

Glad to hear it. I've not yet done the coppa. You've inspired me to give it a go. Did you follow the recipe from the book verbatim, or did you make any alterations?
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I used the method of removing the whole coppa from the shoulder that Jason posted WAY upthread, and then followed the recipes pretty much as written.
Dave Valentin
Retired Explosive Detection K9 Handler
"So, what if we've got it all backwards?" asks my son.
"Got what backwards?" I ask.
"What if chicken tastes like rattlesnake?" My son, the Einstein of the family.


#2168 User is offline   Abra

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Posted 20 November 2006 - 02:01 PM

Beautiful! And the fat is still so snowy white - great contrast.

#2169 User is offline   Bombdog

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Posted 20 November 2006 - 02:04 PM

Abra, on Nov 20 2006, 04:01 PM, said:

Beautiful!  And the fat is still so snowy white - great contrast.
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Thank you Abra!
Dave Valentin
Retired Explosive Detection K9 Handler
"So, what if we've got it all backwards?" asks my son.
"Got what backwards?" I ask.
"What if chicken tastes like rattlesnake?" My son, the Einstein of the family.


#2170 User is offline   lennyk

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Posted 21 November 2006 - 06:32 PM

first attempt at bacon
dried it with a fan
Posted Image
in the weber smokey mountain cooker
Posted Image
sliced
Posted Image
MMMmmmmmmmm
Posted Image

#2171 User is offline   Bombdog

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Posted 21 November 2006 - 06:37 PM

lennyk, on Nov 21 2006, 08:32 PM, said:

first attempt at bacon
dried it with a fan
View Post


Lenny, that is some great looking LEAN bacon....
Dave Valentin
Retired Explosive Detection K9 Handler
"So, what if we've got it all backwards?" asks my son.
"Got what backwards?" I ask.
"What if chicken tastes like rattlesnake?" My son, the Einstein of the family.


#2172 User is offline   lennyk

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Posted 21 November 2006 - 06:43 PM

yeah, finding quality thick belly is hit and miss here

Bombdog, on Nov 21 2006, 06:37 PM, said:

Lenny, that is some great looking LEAN bacon....


#2173 User is offline   Rubashov

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Posted 21 November 2006 - 10:47 PM

Hi everyone,
I just successfully completed my first emulsified sausage, and boy, do I feel cool! It's a recipe not in the book - a Swedish sausage named "jalkorv" - but I followed the book's procedure and even modified the recipe a little bit to conform to book's guidelines. In short, it turned out great. We're spending Thanksgiving with a family of Swedish descent, and this was a special request when they heard I make sausage. It's fun to be in demand!

My only question is regarding consistency. I used the mixer method (as opposed to the food processor method), and yet the sausages still seem more fluffy and airy than I'd like. Has anyone else run into this issue? If so, how does one get around it?

On a different note, I'm curious how others will be incorporating charcuterie into their Thanksgiving meals. Last year I did an appetizer for a holiday party that I called "Thanksgiving in one bite." It was a round of Italian toast (to simulate the stuffing), topped by a turkey-cranberry sausage, with some mashed potatoes piped on top. Delicious!

Take care, and happy Thanksgiving, everyone.

-Rob

#2174 User is offline   Joisey

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Posted 22 November 2006 - 01:00 PM

--On a different note, I'm curious how others will be incorporating charcuterie into their Thanksgiving meals.--

Boning & Tying Cornish Game Hens, stuffing with a Pheasant-Apricot sausage.

#2175 User is offline   ronnie_suburban

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Posted 22 November 2006 - 01:15 PM

Rubashov, on Nov 21 2006, 11:47 PM, said:

On a different note, I'm curious how others will be incorporating charcuterie into their Thanksgiving meals.
View Post

For the first time, the sausage in my Thanksgiving stuffing will be homemade. I have to say that for an improv job, the sausage turned out pretty well. Here's the recipe, in case anyone's interested:

5# fatty pork butt
3 T Kosher salt
4 T high-quality dried sage
2 T Maple sugar
1 T freshly-minced garlic
1.5 T red pepper flakes
4 t freshly-ground black pepper
1 C ice water

Happy Thanksgiving!! :smile:

=R=
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LTHForum.com's Weekly Chicago Food-Media Digest

ronnie_suburban 'at' yahoo.com

#2176 User is offline   qrn

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Posted 25 November 2006 - 11:19 AM

Hi All,,
I just finished up a batch of dried Spanish chorizo, tuscan, and sopressa venta da friuili, in hog casings. Served them as appitizers for thanksgiving dinner...They were really good...
They have lost about 35% of moisture.
Now the question...If I wrap them in paper and refrigerate, will they dry much more in the frige??? I am leery that they will turn into really,dry hard sticks..

Since commericial sausages are vac packed in bags, would that be a viable way to extend their life??? Any direction would be appreciated....

Bud

#2177 User is offline   jmolinari

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Posted 25 November 2006 - 11:47 AM

if you put them in a zip lock bag they'll keep their moisture quite well.

#2178 User is offline   Bombdog

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Posted 25 November 2006 - 01:08 PM

I've kept them in zip locks in the crisper with no ill effects. Since purchasing a foodsaver I vacuum seal them, also with no ill effects. In all honesty, nothing lasts so long that it would go bad, especially this time of year.
Dave Valentin
Retired Explosive Detection K9 Handler
"So, what if we've got it all backwards?" asks my son.
"Got what backwards?" I ask.
"What if chicken tastes like rattlesnake?" My son, the Einstein of the family.


#2179 User is offline   qrn

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Posted 25 November 2006 - 07:12 PM

Ok , that is what I was wondering...I was having visions of all sorts of things growing in them if I packed them in vac pac or ziplocks...Thanks for the great advice...
I found some jowls last week, and the place has all kinds of hog parts....When I was picking up the jowls I asked about back fat. "sure, look in that case" and I got about 6 pounds for a couple bucks...Gonna get a picnic and do a prosciutto.

While at a middle east market the other day, there was a whole lamb cut up in chunks on the counter, so I am gonna try Jasons lamb prosciutto..along with some merquez...
So much to do and so little time!
Bud

#2180 User is offline   FoodMan

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Posted 27 November 2006 - 10:16 AM

I am planning on making Cassoulet de Toulouse sometime soon from Paula Wolfert's book and of course I wanted some good homemade sausage in it. So, last night I used the Garlic Sausage recipe and altered it by adding some fresh thyme, grated nutmeg and white wine instead of red. Using white wine was based on Paula Wolfert's recipe for Toulouse sausages.

I ended up with about 5.5 lbs of lovely fresh sausage
Posted Image


I had about four patties worth that I did not stuff and I fried them up for breakfast this morning with eggs. Deliciouse! This is going to be one memorable Cassoulet. I will report back when I do make it. Now the stuffed sausages are in the freezer tightly packed.
E. Nassar
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contact: nassarelie(AT)Yahoo(DOT)com

#2181 User is offline   Abra

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Posted 27 November 2006 - 02:19 PM

Elie, howzabout you bring that sausage over here to go with the duck confit and pork belly confit I have curing for cassoulet, and we will so be in business!

#2182 User is offline   FoodMan

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Posted 27 November 2006 - 02:31 PM

Abra, on Nov 27 2006, 04:19 PM, said:

Elie, howzabout you bring that sausage over here to go with the duck confit and pork belly confit I have curing for cassoulet, and we will so be in business!
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Speaking of...I am down to only one leg of duck confit. I need to cure some more ASAP for the cassoulet. We still have one problem combining our efforts though, that little problem of you being a few thousand miles away :smile: .
E. Nassar
Houston, TX

Blogging about food and movies.
contact: nassarelie(AT)Yahoo(DOT)com

#2183 User is offline   dansch

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Posted 02 December 2006 - 09:04 AM

So, I just pulled down and tried my paprika-cured lomo. Everything seems Ok, except the flavor is a bit on the sour side. After my experience with mold on my peperone (yes, yes I know I'm a mold wuss) I had been using a vinegar/water solution once every week or two on the lomo (which was in a collagen casing) to control any fuzzies. I fear that the vinegar may have really soaked in and caused this off sour flavor - fine and dandy in a salame, but not the flavor profile I wanted out of a lomo.

In the future, I think I'll switch over to just a salt brine rub-down if I start to fear undesirable molds.

Any thoughts on the use of vinegar? I know a number of people on this thread have used it - noticed any pronounced sour flavor introduced by it?

-Dan

#2184 User is offline   piperdown

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Posted 02 December 2006 - 11:03 AM

Does anyone know how long fatback keeps in the refrigerator? I just found some that's a few weeks old that I forgot to freeze. It smells OK, but I'm a little concerned to use it.

#2185 User is offline   Joisey

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Posted 02 December 2006 - 02:14 PM

--Does anyone know how long fatback keeps in the refrigerator? I just found some that's a few weeks old that I forgot to freeze. It smells OK, but I'm a little concerned to use it. --

I've had fatback that went bad after only 4 days in the fridge; Of course I'm not sure how old it was before I bought it. I break that stuff down and freeze it as soon as I get it now.

#2186 User is offline   Michael Ruhlman

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Posted 06 December 2006 - 06:03 AM

piperdown, on Dec 2 2006, 06:03 PM, said:

Does anyone know how long fatback keeps in the refrigerator? I just found some that's a few weeks old that I forgot to freeze. It smells OK, but I'm a little concerned to use it.
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it's likely a flavor issue rather than any safety issue. use your senses to evaluate. including common sense...

#2187 User is offline   BRM

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Posted 08 December 2006 - 12:50 PM

So, I have been lurking eGullet for quite some time now. Just a few weeks ago I bought the book and did the duck procuitto in time for thanksgiving. This morning I had my first taste of my own homemade bacon and, like Susan said above (like 50 or so pages ago), it was an epiphany. I was so much more meaty and flavorful than storebought. I smoked it to an internal temp of about 140 which took 2.5 hours and then changed my smoker over to cold smoke and did that for another 3 hours (until I ran out of chips). I have a bit of work to get the saltiness just right, mine was just a bit too salty, but still fabulous. I think I am going to give bacon to my family as christmas presents.

I'm setting my sights on sausages next. The andouille looks really good.

One question though...I don't have a meat grinder. I could have my butcher to do it but I'd like to do it myself and I think I would get continuing use out of a grinder. It seems to me that most of the efforts here used the KA grinder attachment. It is generally the consensus that is the way to go or is it worth investing in a manual grinder? I know there are other meat grinder topics recently but they seem to be more about 'which type of manual' or 'which type of electric'. My question is more 'which type of grinder'? Show of hands anyone?


...and that is my first eGullet post.
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#2188 User is offline   jmolinari

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Posted 08 December 2006 - 01:10 PM

BRM, on Dec 8 2006, 02:50 PM, said:

So, I have been lurking eGullet for quite some time now.  Just a few weeks ago I bought the book and did the duck procuitto in time for thanksgiving.  This morning I had my first taste of my own homemade bacon and, like Susan said above (like 50 or so pages ago), it was an epiphany.  I was so much more meaty and flavorful than storebought.  I smoked it to an internal temp of about 140 which took 2.5 hours and then changed my smoker over to cold smoke and did that for another 3 hours (until I ran out of chips).  I have a bit of work to get the saltiness just right, mine was just a bit too salty, but still fabulous.  I think I am going to give bacon to my family as christmas presents.

I'm setting my sights on sausages next.  The andouille looks really good.

One question though...I don't have a meat grinder.  I could have my butcher to do it but I'd like to do it myself and I think I would get continuing use out of a grinder.  It seems to me that most of the efforts here used the KA grinder attachment.  It is generally the consensus that is the way to go or is it worth investing in a manual grinder?  I know there are other meat grinder topics recently but they seem to be more about 'which type of manual' or 'which type of electric'.  My question is more 'which type of grinder'?  Show of hands anyone?


...and that is my first eGullet post.
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The kitchen aid grinder is quite good. The disadvantage is that there are only 2 plate sizes, "too small" and small. There is no larger plate, which i personally would like.

having said that, don't waste your time on the KA stuffer. That thing SUCKS

#2189 User is offline   dansch

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Posted 08 December 2006 - 01:24 PM

BRM, on Dec 8 2006, 03:50 PM, said:

I have a bit of work to get the saltiness just right, mine was just a bit too salty, but still fabulous. 

I still can't seem to get my salt level right. My most recent batch was in need of more salt - I find myself salting the slices before I fry them. Crazy.

That said, I've made the pancetta recipe a number of times and the salt level is always perfect (since it's measured precisely for each belly I guess). I've been thinking of making the pancetta cure - minus bay leaves and juniper - and then smoking it instead of rolling and hanging. I'm not really sure why there's dextrose in the bacon cure recipe anyway. Thoughts from others?

Quote

I'm setting my sights on sausages next.  The andouille looks really good.

The andouille is one of the tastiest things I've made as a result of this experimentation with charcuterie. There's a recipe upthread that I used and thought was fantastic.

Quote

One question though...I don't have a meat grinder.  I could have my butcher to do it but I'd like to do it myself and I think I would get continuing use out of a grinder.  It seems to me that most of the efforts here used the KA grinder attachment.  It is generally the consensus that is the way to go or is it worth investing in a manual grinder?  I know there are other meat grinder topics recently but they seem to be more about 'which type of manual' or 'which type of electric'.  My question is more 'which type of grinder'?  Show of hands anyone?


I've been using the attachment for my Kitchenaid and it's Ok, but certainly not ideal. One thing I would consider a big plus in the manual category is that you could get one that would fit standard (say, #12) size dies - allowing a much wider range of grind sizes than the 2 that come with the KA.

I've been thinking about moving up to a real (standalone) electric one for that reason + the nicer ones don't seem to get caught up and smear as a result of tiny bits of sinew/silverskin like the KA does. I'm assuming that it's a result of the blade style of the KA (very wide edge angle) - though perhaps horsepower and fit/precision (how close the blade gets to the die) of the standalone ones are significant factors as well.

I know someone with a small Hobart food chopper (the toroid-shaped thing) that has a KA-style grinder attachment, but it's much more hard-core and he can grind just about anything without worry about trimming every last bit of connective tissue out.

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...and that is my first eGullet post.
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This thread is what got me participating in eGullet as well - previously I was just a lurker. Call it the power of pork...

Cheers,
-Dan

#2190 User is offline   Malaclypse

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Posted 08 December 2006 - 01:46 PM

just started a batch of duck prosciutto last night. I'm excited to see how it turns out. I also should be able to get some wild buck breasts soon and hat should make for some amazing flavor.

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