Sorry to ruin my reputation, I really was trying to get this up last night, but the imageGullet pages were not reloading...
A just-barely-too-big-for-one-table crowd of eGuleteers descended on the Szechuan Tasty House last night. They were happy to let us try to construct a bizarre new geometric form that combined a big round table and a rectangular annex. Can't say it really worked too well, we probably should have abandoned the round table and just chained a series of the conventional tables. The round ones really only handle 8 people comfortably, 10 in a pinch.
Coincidentally, there was another large group right behind us, and they somehow seemed to have packed about 20 people around the same table we were having trouble getting 10 around... And another table of 6 (and about 347 kids if I recall correctly) occupied the front. Despite this relatively dense crowd for this small restaurant, the kitchen handled it pretty well. The air conditioner was having a little trouble keeping up, but then maybe some of the sweating at our table was from the hot pepper! But it is worth keeping in mind that on a very hot day, with a lot of people in the restaurant their one little window-style air conditioner is a touch under-powered (I had never encountered a problem previously).
I fell victim to the feeding frenzy at the beginning our meal and failed to get photos of the appetizers, but we started with a few bowls of the
dumplings in a spicy sauce, which I had snapped at an earlier dinner.
And we had a couple of servings of the
Chicken in a Spicy Sauce which consisted of cold chicken breast in a bright red, peppery glaze. Sorry for missing the photo op, this is actually an attractive and tasty dish, one of my favorites, we were too busy eating it. This seemed to be a popular dish.
Because mrbigjas was there, I knew there'd be trouble if we didn't get the
Fu Qi Fei Pan which consisted of cold slices of tripe and kidney with a bit of spice. Here's a shot from my last trip:
We then moved onto the
Golden Coins another one of my favorite things: discs of eggplant stuffed with ground pork,, battered and deep-fried, served with a dipping sauce.

We flamed through these with such speed that they promised to make some more. We didn’t see them for some time, so I don’t know if they forgot, or if the kitchen just hadn’t had a chance to make them yet, but after some whining, we managed to get another plate later on.
The
Twice-Cooked Pork was good as always, if you go for that combo of really fatty pork belly and hot peppers. I do….
Appearing much the same was the
Three Pepper Chicken but that third pepper makes a difference! The fresh chiles, and dried chiles were joined by szechuan peppercorns, which give that weird, numbing, medicinal thing that’s unique to this style of food. It’s weird, but I like it…
As has happened several times now, the waitress recommended something that I wouldn’t have bothered with, the
Pork with Garlic Sauce. Sounded pretty pedestrian, but ended up as one of my faves.
We had an order of
Shrimp with Spicy and Tangy Sauce which I didn't eat, and apparently subconsciously avoided altogether, because I didn't get a picture of it either. I've had this made with chicken and liked it a lot.
I really like the
Braised Beef filet in Szechuan Style, which is a bit soupy, but features very tender slices of beef in a flavorful peppery sauce.
I have no idea what kind of fish the
Whole Fish in Spicy Sauce was, but I found it quite tasty. I want to thank mr and mrs bigjas for throwing themselves on the grenade, so to speak, taking the brunt of the peppery assault sprinkled on top. A little further down, the sauce was just good and spicy, not weaponized. (And Pedro, artful deboning, man!)
The
Dragon and Phoenix was from the still-handwritten new specials list, which should be added to the regular menu soon. Sadly, most of these new specials seem a little conventional, and even this, while tasty, was basically just a heap of decent General Tso’s Chicken, and some spicy shrimp. Most of the rest of the new specials seem to be small variations on that theme.
(BTW I’m kicking myself, in the chaos of ordering all this food, I forgot to add the Shredded Duck with Ginger, I meant to….)
They're a little light on the veggies here, other than chile peppers. But mrbigjas made an excellent suggestion of getting a plate of green beans which were simple, but good, and made me feel a tiny bit less depraved, while lusting after that last piece of pork belly.
We had requests for Pork Lo Mein and Egg Foo Young, which I didn’t take pictures of, because:
A) you already know what pork Lo Mein looks like.
B) Egg Foo Young is just one of the ugliest-looking things you can possibly eat. (Incidentally, I don’t think they normally make this dish, I don’t see it on their menu anywhere, but I give them a lot of credit for catering to this request of one of our party. I hate egg foo young, so I didn’t have any…)
They brought us a daunting pile of sliced watermelon, which was the perfect salve for tingling tastebuds. Not that it dissuaded us from hitting Capogiro too…
Pedro and I actually laughed out loud when the check came, it added up to about $14 per person before tip. The more I think of it, I wonder if some sort of math error was involved, or if they were nice enough to toss-in a few dishes for free? That was 6 appetizers (3 orders of dumplings two of chicken one of tripe) and 12 entrees by my count. For $145 ?!? Well, we tipped nicely, maybe that will help when they discovered they forgot to charge us for half our food!
I’ve been a big booster of this place, so you know that I liked it, I hope others will chime-in with positive or negative critiques. I heard some folks say they thought many things tasted the same, or decried the lack of sauce on the pepper-based dishes. This didn’t bother me, but hey, different strokes….
I still wish there were a few more unconventional things to order, but then again, maybe there are, hiding under dull names: the Pork with Garlic Sauce is one of my new faves. I’ll go back any time for the dumplings in spicy sauce, the cold chicken with spicy sauce, the three pepper chicken, the double cooked pork, the golden coins, the duck with ginger (sorry again!)
Despite the good crowd last night, they told me that things are still a little slow, “not too bad for just opening” is their rationalization, but I think the location is tricky, and their sign is ambiguous. So next time you’re down that way, stop by 902 Arch, there’s plenty of tasty dishes you won’t find elsewhere in Chinatown.
This post has been edited by philadining: 12 August 2005 - 08:40 AM