[MMerrill]

I'll be in the Marche region for a week the end of Oct/beginning of Nov. We're planning to eat at La Canonica, l'Oasi degli Angeli and Osteria dell'Arancio. I'd love to have any other suggestions for places to eat, vineyards to visit and things to do in general.

[wgallois]

While not a particularly pretty place, Acqualagna seemed like quite good place to buy truffles when we were in the Marche in the summer. The scenic highlight of the Marche for me was driving to the top of Monte Nerone, and the artistic highlight was visiting Urbino.

[MMerrill]

Thanks for your suggestions. We are flying into Bologna and spending our first night in Savigno if the Bolognese hills where they also have a truffle festival. May not make it to Acqualagna.

[talpearl]

Villa la Meridiana vs. Hotel Al Castello Novello

All day on the Internet
Saw this beautiful Villa; Hotel Al Castello in Novello
Any one know anything?

[slkinsey]

I've spent quite a bit of time in Le Marche working... I don't think I can suggest any "destination" restaurants, but here are some places to check out:

Urbino is a place you shouldn't miss... if you're there, you might also drop in on my friend Alfredo's place "Big Ben" in nearby Urbania (see also here) for a bite to eat and perhaps to pick up some ceramics, for which they are famous. Also in the area is a great place for lunch, La Forchetta d'Oro in Fermignano. The Alto Metauro region is interesting and hardly known to tourists (more information here).

Don't miss Cartoceto, which has some of the best olive oil in all of Italy. November could be a very interesting time to be there.

In the same area, but on the coast, is Pesaro. I have only been there in the summer while the Rossini Opera Festival was going on, but it's a nice town with some interesting things to see and do. Good seafood ranging from rustic, inexpensive locals places with one price for "the works" (mixed antipasti; spaghetti, taglerini or risotto in rosso or bianco di scoglio; then fritto misto di pesce -- all with whatever they pulled out of the water that day) to fancy high-end places (there is one near the Piazza del Popolo in the basement of a building that I really like -- but I can't remember the name).

Down on the other end ot Le Marche, definitely do not miss Ascoli Piceno, a very interesting and beautiful place with plenty to see and do. Another place to see is Macerata.


Sorry I can't be more help with travel/tourism places in Le Marche. I've mostly been there in specific places working rather than visiting museums or hunting out restaurants.

[endless autumn]

I went to some Slow Food shindig on the products of Le Marche - a website about the producers (wines, oils, pasta, sapa etc.) is here. It lists the details of the various places if anythign catches your attention.

From the slow food tasting, I thought some the 1998 Camurena was pretty special, an aged (and oaked) Maceratino which tasted of hay; the people behind the vineyard seemed very kind, too. I think they'd love a visit.

[MMerrill]

Thanks "slkinsey" and "endless autumn" for your very helpful suggestions and many web sites to explore! Has anyone visited the Frasassi Caves? What are they like? We're starting our visit in Pesaro, then stopping in Jesi and heading on to Castelraimondo and Il Giardino degli Ulivi for the night. Then back to the coast near Ancona, catching small towns along the way. Will end with three nights in Grottamare from where we can visit Ascoli Piceno and smaller towns in the hills. When we head north to fly out of Bologna, we plan to stop in Urbino. We have 7 days, but there are still too many places to go, restaurants to eat in, wines to drink!

[badthings]

slkinsey, on Oct 16 2003, 06:05 AM, said:

Down on the other end ot Le Marche, definitely do not miss Ascoli Piceno, a very interesting and beautiful place with plenty to see and do. Another place to see is Macerata.

Anyone have food/hotel suggestions for Ascoli Piceno? we're doing the florence/siena/umbria thing in April, and I wanted to go somewhere a little more rustic. Thinking the drive from Norcia to Ascoli Piceno would be picturesque -- but maybe it is just harrowing?

[slkinsey]

Unfortunately, I've never overnighted in Ascoli Piceno. The commune web site seems to offer a few interesting sounding choices, though.

The drive from Norcia should be a good one... it's the SS4 Salaria just about all the way, and shouldn't take more than an hour at most.

[badthings]

Pending further suggestions, I'll just have to fall back on the Osterie d'Italia, if Slow Food ever delivers the damn thing.

I'll post some kind of a report -- it appears I may "have to" go to some business dinners... at Cibreo and Pinchiorri. (the non-work part will be considerably lower rent).

[DaleJ]

Should you be passing Ancona midday I recommend that you pull off at Portonovo about halfway between Ancona and Sirolo (Monte Conero). I lunched there a couple of times this autumn. Actually, I don't think there's even a town there, just parking for hundreds of cars and a half dozen beachfronty restaurants. I was there the last Sunday in September along with most of the population of Le Marche. A fabulous melee. That crowd will not, however, exist in October so a three hour wait for a table will not be a problem. (Fortunately there was wine.)

BTW, Sirolo has a charming square overlooking the sea.

[MMerrill]

We travelled in Le Marche in November 2003. Spent half a day in Ascoli Piceno. Visited the Gastronomia Migliori in Piazza Aringo to try their famous stuffed olives - which were good. They also have other carry-out type food and sell wine, olive oil etc. We spent several nights in Grottammare, down on the coast in a very pleasant hotel, the Villa Helvetia - reasonably priced and centrally located. Had one dinner at the Osteria del'Arancio (only open at night) which was excellent. Same owner has a good pizza restaurant just up the hill from the Osteria, if you want a lighter meal and wonderful view over the town and sea.

[curlywurlyfi]

I spent New Year in Le Marche and had some fantastic (though relatively rustic) meals. Will check with my friends who live there. The one thing I do remember is that we did a really astonishingly comprehensive taste comparison of chocolate icecreams in the area we were (near Macerata/Comunanza) and Casa del Gelato in Macerata was head and shoulders above the rest.

I second Ascoli Piceno as a great place to wander round. Have a coffee in the cafe in the square and admire the roaring lions outside the cathedral.

[DaleJ]

Had a fine lunch at Pizzaria Teatro, just off the main piazza in Ascoli. Don't be off put by the name. Its a white tablecloth place with attentive service, nice local wine and satisfying food. Full of locals.

[curlywurlyfi]

totally recommend Le Logge, in Smerillo, tiny and charming village up in the mountains, tel 0734 79129, waitperson: Romina (there is only her and I believe she is a daughter of the house).

We went here twice it was so good. very rustic, very cheap, but delicious food - fried quails eggs on pancetta; bean soup/stew drowned in truffles; wild boar pasta; homemade salamis; grilled lamb from HEAVEN; mistra (local anisette) and vin cotto.

But the best part about it is the view. Go at night (hope you get a clear night) and walk out through the arch to the right of the restaurant and you are on a tiny promontory sticking out over the valleys of a huge circle of mountains and all you can see are the tiny twinkling lights of other little villages, and stars up above. The most beautiful view I have ever seen. Real lump-in-the-throat stuff.

[cinghiale]

I’ll be in southern Marche for one week, in early December. Itinerary is:

● Ancona: I arrive on November 30 and have a reservation at Uliassi

● Fabiano

● Camerino

● Amandola (for the weekend, two nights): considering trekking to a meal at Emilio in Casabianca

● Macerata (Sunday night)

● Ancona (Monday night)

I’ve researched Michelin, Marche Voyager, and the Le Marche in November thread. Restaurants that sounded intriguing include Pipo e Gabriella in Sant' Angelo in Potano, Oscar e Amorina in Piane di Montegiorgio, Ristorante al Girarrosto in Loro Piceno, and Tornasacco in Ascoli Piceno.

Also, I’ll be back in Ancona on a Monday night, making for limited dining options. Even though they’re probably not open, I’m not interested in going back to the Senigallia area for Madonnina d. P. or Symposium. Other than Uliassi or maybe Emilio, I’m more interested in the highlights of the cucina marchigiana.

So, anyone got any southern Marche favs to recommend?

[MMerrill]

We had a lovely dinner at Osteria dell'Arnacio in Grottammare. Really wanted to go to Oasi degli Angeli in Cupra Marittima, but they were closed when we were in the area. They produce some incredible wines, and the food is supposed to be good too. Go and see the lovely church of S. Maria della Rocca in Offida.

[kellytree]

In Fabriano you could go to the Marchese del Grillo - its a lovely lovely place- awesome wine cellar. The food, in my opinion is ok - nothing to knock your socks off - for the beauty of the place the food should a lot better ( they also rent out rooms which are beautiful)

Osteria Fricandò is a restaurant in the center of Fabriano. One of the owners mom does most of the cooking - The menu changes daily. Ive never had a bad meal there - its not fine dining but it is real italian food at its best. .. THey have a good selection of wines.

There is a little tiny restaurant called Il Merlo Nero - located in Mergo (between Fabriano and Jesi) - its always empty and I dont know why- the food is wonderful.

If you want pizza while in Fabriano than head over to Lara - her pasta aint bad either.

Now, if you want a real hole in the wall place where the owner / waiter asks you shat you want but gives you want he gots you should go to Trattoria Martellò - The food is great (if you are picky - dont go because you cant choose!) - Its a family run place (like all the other ones mentioned above) . Nothing fancy - real homemade italian cookin'! Located in Angeli di Rosora. People that want to make a statement or want to be with the "in" crowd dont go here. Escept for some of us!!


If you want I can tell you a few places not to go in Fabriano - but I wont do it public - unless y'all want me too kellytree@hotmail.com

[Ore]

OK, A friend I work with, Vincenzo, spent time in that area. He suggests:

#Messer Chichibio - San Benedetto del Tronto

#Osteria Lupo di Mare - Grottamare - Good Eats, Cheap Price

#Il Cavallino - San Benedetto del Tronto / Lungomare - Good Eats, Cheap Price

#Osteria Molo Sud - San Benedetto del Tronto - Good Eats, Cheap Price

#Pub Verbena - San Benedetto del Tronto (a very friendly pub)


Hope this helps!

Ore

This post has been edited by Ore: 10 November 2004 - 04:34 PM

[albiston]

kellytree, on Nov 10 2004, 06:30 PM, said:

If you want I can tell you a few places not to go in Fabriano - but I wont do it public - unless y'all want me too   kellytree@hotmail.com

Kellytree,

as long as this is not done in mean-spirited way, you're definitely free to post any negative experiences you have had.

[cinghiale]

Thanks kellytree. Marchese del Grillo was certainly on my list. Marche Voyager mentions La Pergola as their fav in Fabriano. Any thoughts?

Trattoria da Martello sounds very intriguing and I believe I'll give it a try. BTW: Angeli di Rosora is only 7 km from Le Busche (*) in Montecarotto. Do you, or does anyone else, have any information on this restaurant?

Thank you MMerrill and Ore for the southern coastal recs. Perhaps I'm laboring under a misconception, but I figure the seaside during the offseason isn't very interesting, and for that reason I'm heading inland. Not to say that I haven't read very interesting things about San Benedetto del Tronto and Grottamare: for instance, Mario Battali (typically hyperbolically) considers those two towns to house among the best of Le Marche's restaurants. Am I wrong to omit them just because it's December?

[kellytree]

La Pergola -- now that I know which restaurant it is ( its the one in the Hotel Janus) --- I ate there once a few years ago - I remember an amazing goose breast prosciutto and I remember that they had a really BAD selection of wine and weren't very pleased when my step dad went to the car and brought in his own (which he bought at a wine shop owned by the chef of the restaurant!!).
I think it has changed hands now.

Le Busche I have never been too --- Its actually further away than you think - not in kms but because the road to get there is very curvyand twisty.

[Angelo Recchi]

Hi Cinghiale,

I would strongly recommend:

* near Fabriano, at Serra San Quirico, go to La Pianella, da Raul, and ask for Veal Guanciola (wonderful). Excellent and genuine food, Raul is a real expert, bill around 40 Euros each. I also went to Marchese del Grillo, but I think is overvaluate. Good canteen, anyway, but La Pianella is highly better.

* Near Camerino, you can go at Gli Ulivi , Matelica. The owner is weird, but the food is good, and he has genuine and local food.

* In Ancona, for your monday night, I would suggest you Ristorante Il Passetto (whether open, I can't remember). Excellent food, great service and perfect professionality.

And, of course, when you pass by, just make a call: I'll be very happy to meet you!

Ciao

Angelo
--------------------
www.angelorecchi.com

[albiston]

Angelo,

Benvenuto su eGullet!

Thanks for your informed tips and we hope you'll join our discussions again, now that you've made the first step .

A presto.

[Marco_Polo]

albiston, on Nov 24 2004, 11:52 AM, said:

Benvenuto su eGullet!

Ciao Angelo,

Very nice to meet you here and I'd just like to second Alberto's warm words of welcome. And I'd also add that Angelo, from his home in the Conero, knows the Southern Marche area about as well as anyone.

a presto,

Marc

[cinghiale]

Angelo:

Thank you for your well-considered recommendations. Looks like I'll be meeting up with kellytree in Fabriano. She has some firm ideas, so perhaps I can get to La Pianella for lunch. Does the veal guanciola have guanciale in it? I'm not familiar with the dish.

As for the Matelica reco, do you mean Il Giardino degli Ulivi? I had this on my list from Michelin, and it looks a good choice.

I'll look into Il Passetto when I arrive Ancona next week. If it's closed on Mondays, I'll drop you a line at your website for other ideas, if I may.

Thanks again. And welcome to eGullet!

Angelo Recchi, on Nov 24 2004, 05:33 AM, said:

Hi Cinghiale,

I would strongly recommend:

* near Fabriano, at Serra San Quirico, go to La Pianella, da Raul, and ask for Veal Guanciola (wonderful). Excellent and genuine food, Raul is a real expert, bill around 40 Euros each. I also went to Marchese del Grillo, but I think is overvaluate. Good canteen, anyway, but La Pianella is highly better.

* Near Camerino, you can go at Gli Ulivi , Matelica. The owner is weird, but the food is good, and he has genuine and local food.

* In Ancona, for your monday night, I would suggest you Ristorante Il Passetto (whether open, I can't remember). Excellent food, great service and perfect professionality.

And, of course, when you pass by, just make a call: I'll be very happy to meet you!

Ciao

Angelo
--------------------
www.angelorecchi.com

[MMerrill]

Quote

As for the Matelica reco, do you mean Il Giardino degli Ulivi? I had this on my list from Michelin, and it looks a good choice

We spent one night there last November and while the setting is isolated and lovely we were very disappointed in the food. Not bad, just nothing to go out of your way for. It was recommended in Gambero Rosso 2003, but not in 2004 (we discovered too late).

[Angelo Recchi]

MMerrill, on Nov 24 2004, 08:11 PM, said:

Quote

As for the Matelica reco, do you mean Il Giardino degli Ulivi? I had this on my list from Michelin, and it looks a good choice

We spent one night there last November and while the setting is isolated and lovely we were very disappointed in the food. Not bad, just nothing to go out of your way for. It was recommended in Gambero Rosso 2003, but not in 2004 (we discovered too late).

I can agree with Mmerrill, although I think that the choice in that area is rather limited. I can ask somebody and tell you more.
Note: Mmerrill, I think you were lucky not to be an Italian native speaker (I suppose), otherwise you could have got angry after a 2-minutes-conversation with the owner, which I did when I went there. *But* the food was not bad.
Well, if I find something better, I'll let you know.

About guanciola: it's the cheek of the veal, no guanciale inside (by guanciale I mean the cheek of the pork).

About Il Passetto... I've just discovered that it's closed on Mondays :-(
We can try Gino, the best one for Stoccafisso all'Anconetana. If not closed as well, I'll check it out.

Last thing: don't know whether you found an hotel nor which is your budget. I would recommend you to Hotel Duchi della Rovere, in Senigallia (www.hotelduchidellarovere.it). Just 50 metres walking from Uliassi. It has the best service of Senigallia. It's a 4 star hotel, so it might be a bit expensive; you can ask them for discounts or special prices, in this period they might have empty rooms.

Thank you all for such a nice welcome on Egullet!
Ciao
Angelo

[Angelo Recchi]

I just asked to a Matelica-Camerino area expert. He told me you should go at Raul-Pianella, in Serra S.Quirico (the one I told you), because there is no special restaurant to mention. It's 30 minutes by car. Maybe you can go there when in Camerino, and go to Fabriano when in Fabriano.

Unless you find a place which we don't know (and they might be), and which you will show me when we'll meet!

Ciao,
Angelo

[cinghiale]

Thank you to all for the recommendations! I leave in three days for what is now assured to be a fine tour.

I'll be meeting kellytree in Fabriano and Angelo in Ancona. Ah, the blessings of eGullet!

I'll be sure to report once I return.