Q&A: All About Eggs --Omelettes & More By Fat Guy a.k.a Steven A. Shaw
#31
Posted 12 February 2004 - 04:15 PM
#32
Posted 12 February 2004 - 04:24 PM
Fat Guy, on Feb 12 2004, 07:56 AM, said:
You are basically working with a circular sheet of eggs that is somewhat wet on top yet coherent on the bottom. At the end of the process, you want a "packet" of eggs that is about 1/4 as wide (the short dimension measured across the top) as the diameter of that sheet of eggs. The way you make that happen is you do a push-and-jerk motion. You tile the pan a bit away from you, then push the pan away from you and quickly jerk it back as you lower the handle to get the pan more level. The first jerk or two wil cause a small part of the far end of the sheet to fold up and back over the sheet. As you do this several times, the whole thing will roll-fold in this manner, and when you remove the omelette from the pan onto the serving plate you also get a chance to do some final rolling-shaping in that process.
Does this make any sense at all?
Steven:
Thank you for your dealing so competently with one of the most important topics that most eGulletiers will appreciate. Eggs are still one of our most reasonable sources of protein and so often overlooked due to just being so much a everyday part of our lives.
I'd like to take this opportunity to bring to everyones attention one of the most often overlooked or even unknown specialist in the Restaurant business. These Cooks who rarely obtain the status of "Chef" are in my opinion true culinary experts.
The "Egg Man" or "Egg Lady" are the true experts responsible for running one of the most difficult positions on any Restaurant serving Breakfast. Watching anyone of them at work is a very special thing as ability of putting together and cooking every order a la carte with speed, many pans, rhythm and timing is special.
There are many places that consider the "Egg Person" their most valued employee and I've been privileged to work and learn from many thru the years.
In their honor and to thank you I'd like to share a bit of Magic that I learned from a "French Egg Man", who worked the Egg Station at the "Claremont Diner" in New Jersey owned by Morris Baum where it wasn't unusual to serve 1000 breakfasts on a busy weekend morning.
Since this was a operation that prepared everything for quality there was no such thing as cooking eggs with anything but butter in a fry pan. Eggs were never opened except to order and even for omelets they were simply placed unwhisked but opened into bowls, complimented by the fillings alongside as orders were received, then fired on order.
The one thing that made every Omelet super fluffy and brought customers back again and again was quite simple and could be done everywhere.
After the Eggs had set in the Pan, and the filling was put inside all the Pans were quickly placed under the Broiler for several seconds, just long enough to set and let the eggs puff up under the heat. Then they were quickly folded up into the warm platters and served.
This was the method our "Egg Man" had learned from the George V and the Ritz Hotels in Paris and I've brought it to many places and still do it at home today. It's fail proof and truly brings out all the marriage of tastes about your dream omelet.
Irwin
#33
Posted 12 February 2004 - 04:44 PM
Quote
I tried to make a quick illustration of this process. HTH:
#34
Posted 12 February 2004 - 05:45 PM
wesza, on Feb 12 2004, 05:24 PM, said:
Hey! That's a cool idea. I'll have to give that a try. Thanks, Irwin!
Chad
#35
Posted 12 February 2004 - 05:57 PM
#36
Posted 12 February 2004 - 06:35 PM
On the egg man point: You have no idea how prophetic your post is. We will have a very special treat along those lines next week. Rest assured, some of us do appreciate egg men and all they do. Stay tuned.
On the use of the broiler in omelette making: This is an excellent trick, one that I use especially when serving guests, but it only works if you have the broiler that most home cooks don't. If you don't have at least around a 15k BTU/hr infrared pro-style broiler, you won't hit the eggs with the blast of energy they need to really puff up that way quickly while still remaining moist. I've tried it at other people's houses with regular gas and electric broilers and it just doesn't work.
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#37
Posted 12 February 2004 - 06:38 PM
ExtraMSG, on Feb 12 2004, 05:23 PM, said:
The inside shouldn't really be runny; it should just be a little wet. The way you want to go to get the right effect is to make sure the ratio of egg to pan is such that you're pouring a rather thin layer, and to make sure the pan is good and hot. If you have too much egg, or the pan isn't hot enough, you'll never cook through the eggs from the bottom before you overcook the bottom. If you have the ratio and the pan right, and you wait until you see those bubbles before you start the shaking-and-rolling process, your omelette will be just right by the time you plate it. And no, you shouldn't leave it to finish after it's rolled. That will just overcook the outside. It's a seamless process from pan to mouth once you start shaking.
Executive Director, eGullet Society, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)
10 ways you can help the Society
#38
Posted 12 February 2004 - 06:42 PM
ExtraMSG, on Feb 12 2004, 06:44 PM, said:

Cool. Many thanks. Now all we need are the eggs and some vectors indicated!
Executive Director, eGullet Society, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)
10 ways you can help the Society
#39
Posted 12 February 2004 - 08:48 PM
Fat Guy, on Feb 12 2004, 09:56 AM, said:
You are basically working with a circular sheet of eggs that is somewhat wet on top yet coherent on the bottom. At the end of the process, you want a "packet" of eggs that is about 1/4 as wide (the short dimension measured across the top) as the diameter of that sheet of eggs. The way you make that happen is you do a push-and-jerk motion. You tile the pan a bit away from you, then push the pan away from you and quickly jerk it back as you lower the handle to get the pan more level. The first jerk or two wil cause a small part of the far end of the sheet to fold up and back over the sheet. As you do this several times, the whole thing will roll-fold in this manner, and when you remove the omelette from the pan onto the serving plate you also get a chance to do some final rolling-shaping in that process.
Does this make any sense at all?
Now is the time for video on eG!
#40
Posted 13 February 2004 - 12:17 AM
this is the tutorial where meringue is mentioned at the end, right?
question:
if you make meringues, and they always come out chewy-crunchy, instead of crunchy enough to make, for example a pavlova, what might be the culprit? and they also frequently have droplets of caramelized sugar on them.
i'm guessing underbeating of whites, or not enough time in oven, but await your advice.
--Isak Dinesen
My personal blog: about 15% food posts by weight.
#41
Posted 13 February 2004 - 12:24 AM
Fat Guy, on Feb 12 2004, 05:42 PM, said:
Your wish is my command:
#42
Posted 13 February 2004 - 12:40 AM
snowangel, on Feb 12 2004, 07:48 PM, said:
How about really lame-ass animation instead:
#43
Posted 13 February 2004 - 12:50 AM
Gus: You've exceeded the limits of my knowledge. Let's hope Carolyn Tillie or one of the pastry chefs on the site can chime in with an answer for you.
Executive Director, eGullet Society, sshaw@egstaff.org
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#44
Posted 13 February 2004 - 06:08 AM
gus_tatory, on Feb 13 2004, 02:17 AM, said:
this is the tutorial where meringue is mentioned at the end, right?
question:
if you make meringues, and they always come out chewy-crunchy, instead of crunchy enough to make, for example a pavlova, what might be the culprit? and they also frequently have droplets of caramelized sugar on them.
i'm guessing underbeating of whites, or not enough time in oven, but await your advice.
I would cook them longer at a lower temperature.
#45
Posted 14 February 2004 - 10:49 AM
Filling was diced & sauteed onion, green pepper, sliced mushroom, bacon, and a sprinking of cheese. I put less than half the filling I would normally have used and put it on as soon as the skin began forming, but before shaking the pan. The shaking technique I have down, as you can see the form of the finished omelette.

However, I had two negatives: First, the outside browned slightly, and second, the inside wasn't cooked enough fpr my taste, although Jason enjoyed it a little runny.

How can we get a more fully cooked omelette without browning the outside or cooking it longer after it is formed and read to flip out of the pan?
Katherine, on Feb 13 2004, 08:08 AM, said:
I suppose I should just accept Katherine's advice. (Although it applied to meringue!)
#46
Posted 14 February 2004 - 10:56 AM
Executive Director, eGullet Society, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)
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#47
Posted 14 February 2004 - 12:46 PM
I'm out of eggs, but I'm going to do some side by side comparisons of scrambling the omelette before it sets and doing the shaking method to see which I prefer. I think a lot of people would not be happy with the runny aspect, though I don't mind it.
EDIT: scrambling method video: http://www.epicuriou...eggs_omelet.ram?
This post has been edited by ExtraMSG: 14 February 2004 - 12:49 PM
#48
Posted 14 February 2004 - 12:57 PM
I added finely minced onion and yellow bellpepper, cilantro, and finely shaved (almost like dust) reggiano. Delicious. The younger Mayhaws enjoyed them as well, but sans cilantro (they will eat all manner of raw fish but won't touch cilantro-go figure
Excellent course. I learned much and watching it unfold over the course of the week.
There's a train everyday, leaving either way...
#49
Posted 15 February 2004 - 10:19 AM
Executive Director, eGullet Society, sshaw@egstaff.org
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Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)
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#50
Posted 15 February 2004 - 01:54 PM
I think one problem I may be having is that the pan I'm using may be losing heat quickly after the eggs are tossed in. You wouldn't think so, since it's not something with a lot of mass like a steak, but maybe it is the case. I'm using medium high heat, about 7 on my electric stovetop (came with the house, man I wish I could get gas). Maybe that's not hot enough.
#51
Posted 15 February 2004 - 08:42 PM
To report in, my 1st omlette, with just some fresh thyme and parsley, came out slightly overdone and quite toasty on the outside, so I tried it again. The second time (just a plain omlette) it came out near perfect, but just slighty browned on the outside. The inside though was so fluffy and delicious! Next time I think I'll have it.
I wish I had a digital camera (well, maybe for my birthday...only a month and a half away...) Thanks FG
This post has been edited by NickMach007: 15 February 2004 - 08:44 PM
#52
Posted 15 February 2004 - 08:54 PM
Executive Director, eGullet Society, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)
10 ways you can help the Society
#54
Posted 16 February 2004 - 01:10 PM
slkinsey, on Feb 16 2004, 09:41 AM, said:
Well, as much a purist as I am, I still love my Calphalon Pro. nonstick. I don't cook my eggs in anything else. I might not be ready for a French steel.
On the other hand, I'm glad to know I'm not the only one with slighty browned omlettes. I am going to keep trying until I master the "unbrowned" omlette, then I can go back to the toastier one...
#55
Posted 18 February 2004 - 09:14 PM
I believe the basic "hard" meringue, as described, is not "Swiss" but "French." To make a Swiss meringue, one heats the egg whites and sugar gently in a bain-marie before whipping them. Accordin' to my textbooks, anyway.
In practice they're more or less interchangeable, but the Swiss meringue is somewhat more stable.
#56
Posted 18 February 2004 - 11:49 PM
http://www.aeb.org/r...d_meringues.htm
Executive Director, eGullet Society, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)
10 ways you can help the Society
#57
Posted 28 February 2004 - 11:02 AM
To overcome this, my "brutish" effort is to saute all my ingredients (except the cheese) in the pan first and then add the whipped eggs to the, now warmed, ingredients. This seems to allow the egg to absorb more heat more quickly. I next sprinkle on the cheese and 'flip' over in half, allowing a brief amount of time for both sides to cook through. Having the additives precooked and warm allows for faster cooking of the egg, lessoning the need to cook longer and eliminating the 'browning affect'.
#58
Posted 18 May 2004 - 07:57 PM
From what I understand (from the online lesson and the animated images), I'm supposed to flip the omelette such that the 1/3 part that's furthest away from the pan's handle ends up on the other two-thirds. I can do complete flips when it comes to over-easy eggs, but this seems to be beyond me.
Suggestions would be much appreciated.
Tom
This post has been edited by helius: 18 May 2004 - 07:58 PM
#59
Posted 18 May 2004 - 08:14 PM
Language just isn't great for some things.
Executive Director, eGullet Society, sshaw@egstaff.org
Proud signatory to the eG Ethics code
Director, New Media Studies, International Culinary Center (take my food-blogging course)
10 ways you can help the Society
#60
Posted 18 May 2004 - 08:28 PM
Fat Guy, on May 18 2004, 11:14 PM, said:
Language just isn't great for some things.
Thanks for the reply, FG. I do agree that it's some times really hard to explain these things in words. Reminds me of my adventures in learning how to make puff pastry.
I'll have to get a few more dozen eggs tomorrow.





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