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THE BEST: Offal Scattergories-Style

#1 User is offline   jogoode

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Posted 31 January 2004 - 10:23 AM

Near the end of this Casa Mono thread, we seem to have concluded that, whether or not Marian Burros is a good reviewer, her reviews do not speak to those of us who like roast guts, cockscomb, or a nice tripe sandwich. So what to do? Make a list where edible offal is served best in NYC.

You get one point for a good one-offal dish. Two for a good two-offal dish. Like Scattergories. Whoever wins gets to go to Casa Mono with Ms. Burros and has to get her to try the tripe. :wink:

I'll start.

-Ox tongue and tripe -- Grand Sichuan = 2 points
-Tongue two-ways salad, roasted and cured -- last year's restaurant week at Cafe Boulud = 2 points?
JJ Goode

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#2 User is offline   slkinsey

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Posted 31 January 2004 - 11:06 AM

I think all the offal at Babbo and Lupa is outstanding. That guy has a way with the fifth quarter. I have enjoyed his brain ravioli, sauteed sweetbread with fennel pollen, fried lamb sweetbreads at Lupa... and the tripa alla parmigiana is an absolute must-have.

Is there anyplace in the city to buy one of those Sicilian sandwiches filled with spleen and lung cooked in lard?
Samuel Lloyd Kinsey

#3 User is offline   slkinsey

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Posted 31 January 2004 - 11:09 AM

slkinsey, on Jan 31 2004, 01:06 PM, said:

Is there anyplace in the city to buy one of those Sicilian sandwiches filled with spleen and lung cooked in lard?

Okay... reading one of JJ's links above, it looks like a trip to First Avenue's Foccacceria for a vesteddi is in order. Who's up for it?
Samuel Lloyd Kinsey

#4 User is offline   Eric_Malson

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Posted 31 January 2004 - 12:03 PM

OK, Sam, I can't believe you didn't mention this, because we traditionally share one when we go there....

The mixed grill at Pampa. In addition to grilled short ribs, skirt steak, a chorizo and a blood sausage, it includes sweetbreads, kidneys and small intestines.

All right, technically they're not all "in the same dish", but they're all on the same platter.....that counts, doesn't it?
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#5 User is offline   Bux

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Posted 31 January 2004 - 06:06 PM

jogoode, on Jan 31 2004, 12:23 PM, said:

I'll start.

-Ox tongue and tripe -- Grand Sichuan = 2 points
-Tongue two-ways salad, roasted and cured -- last year's restaurant week at Cafe Boulud = 2 points?

I saw tripe on a recent Cafe Boulud menu. This is from the current web site.

Quote

BRAISED TRIPE "À LA PARMIGIANA"
Tuscan Style Tripe
with Fresh Borlotti Beans
Black Pepper and Parmesan
$26



For what it's worth, many dim sum parlors offer small portions of tripe. Most Pho places offer omosa as a soup addition. I believe that's leaf or book tripe.
Robert Buxbaum
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#6 User is offline   jogoode

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Posted 31 January 2004 - 09:21 PM

Eric_Malson, on Jan 31 2004, 02:03 PM, said:

The mixed grill at Pampa. In addition to grilled short ribs, skirt steak, a chorizo and a blood sausage, it includes sweetbreads, kidneys and small intestines.

All right, technically they're not all "in the same dish", but they're all on the same platter.....that counts, doesn't it?

Definitely counts! How is the blood sausage? I have never eaten good blood sausage in NYC...
JJ Goode

Co-author of Serious Barbecue, which is in stores now!
www.jjgoode.com

"For those of you following along, JJ is one of these hummingbird-metabolism types. He weighs something like eleven pounds but he can eat more than me and Jason put together..." -Fat Guy

#7 User is offline   Eric_Malson

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Posted 31 January 2004 - 09:35 PM

jogoode, on Jan 31 2004, 11:21 PM, said:

How is the blood sausage? I have never eaten good blood sausage in NYC...

I think it's excellent--by a lot, my favorite of the ones I've tried in this country.

Sam, back me up here....
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#8 User is offline   Pan

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Posted 31 January 2004 - 11:02 PM

Eric_Malson, on Jan 31 2004, 11:35 PM, said:

jogoode, on Jan 31 2004, 11:21 PM, said:

How is the blood sausage? I have never eaten good blood sausage in NYC...

I think it's excellent--by a lot, my favorite of the ones I've tried in this country.

I'd say it's a little salty but excellent. I doubt I have as wide a selection to compare from as Eric does, though.

#9 User is offline   kurl

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Posted 01 February 2004 - 02:22 AM

If sweetbreads count, the ones at Gramercy Tavern deserve a place on this list.

How about the beef tendon at Grand Sichuan? I've had them in sweet bean sauce and it was excellent.

#10 User is offline   wesza

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Posted 01 February 2004 - 02:43 AM

There used to be several Restaurants in New York that served excellent Roast Whole Sheeps Heads and Pig Heads as well as "Suffritios" as well as "Lungen and Miltz" on the lower east side.

Fancy things like "Sweetbreads" and "Brains" were served at the "Four Seasons"and many other popular Restaurants.

"Duck Tongues", in Chinatown were available on request as well as several types of tripe, with "Pig Testicles" featured at Hakka Restaurants. Clotted Blood is available in 5 different varieties, done for various ethinic tastes.

Pork Livers, Tongues and Kidneys, Cheeks and Snouts are popular treats available at most butchers and many restaurants.

Various dried Fish Intestines, Stomachs and Bladders are utilized in many specialties as are almost every type of Tendon.

Turkey and Chicken Asses are sold for snacks or fried treats for special occassions as are all types of intestines. [chittlins]

There are very few leftovers, and often items considered offals are sold at premium prices.

Irwin
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#11 User is offline   jogoode

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Posted 01 February 2004 - 07:03 AM

kurl, on Feb 1 2004, 04:22 AM, said:

If sweetbreads count, the ones at Gramercy Tavern deserve a place on this list. 

How about the beef tendon at Grand Sichuan?  I've had them in sweet bean sauce and it was excellent.

They certainly count. I loved the crispy sweetbreads I was served at GT, but I'd like to see them grilled more often. Chestnut, Smith Street in Brooklyn, does a great grilled sweetbread dish.

I was intrigued by the tendon in sweet bean sauce, but I tried it in chili sauce the other day and it was truly awesome.
JJ Goode

Co-author of Serious Barbecue, which is in stores now!
www.jjgoode.com

"For those of you following along, JJ is one of these hummingbird-metabolism types. He weighs something like eleven pounds but he can eat more than me and Jason put together..." -Fat Guy

#12 User is offline   jogoode

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Posted 01 February 2004 - 07:05 AM

wesza, on Feb 1 2004, 04:43 AM, said:

Turkey and Chicken Asses are sold for snacks or fried treats for special occassions as are all types of intestines. [chittlins]

I'd love to find a good chittlins dish. Anybody have a place?
JJ Goode

Co-author of Serious Barbecue, which is in stores now!
www.jjgoode.com

"For those of you following along, JJ is one of these hummingbird-metabolism types. He weighs something like eleven pounds but he can eat more than me and Jason put together..." -Fat Guy

#13 User is offline   Suzanne F

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Posted 01 February 2004 - 11:27 AM

Anyone have a recommendation for a place to get kokoretsi (various innards wrapped up with intestines and grilled)? The only time I get it is at the Ninth Avenue Festival, and the restaurant it came from closed some time ago. I think it's related to Ithaka, that opened on East 86th Street.

#14 User is offline   Eric_Malson

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Posted 01 February 2004 - 12:03 PM

Suzanne F, on Feb 1 2004, 01:27 PM, said:

Anyone have a recommendation for a place to get kokoretsi (various innards wrapped up with intestines and grilled)?

Try Uncle George's in Astoria, Queens (it's on Broadway, three of four blocks east of the train--what's the line that goes to Ditmars Blvd. called these days? W?). I keep hearing Uncle George's has gone down in quality the last few years, and perhaps it has--I only started going there a couple of years ago--but most everything I've tried has been pretty wonderful. I have noticed it is a bit variable, though.

I'm 95% sure I've had the kokoretsi--we were ordering a bunch of rotisseried meats (this is the kind of place that has a dozen rotisseries going behind the counter as you walk in) and asked for this one that looked great but we weren't sure exactly what it was (I'm not sure what the waiter told us, but it definitely wasn't the whole truth!). It sure was rich....

If you go, be sure to get the barbecued pork....it's sensational.
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#15 User is offline   Bux

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Posted 01 February 2004 - 12:09 PM

jogoode, on Jan 31 2004, 11:21 PM, said:

How is the blood sausage? I have never eaten good blood sausage in NYC...

Hmm. Maybe I'm not a connoisseur, or maybe I'm just desparate, but I've enjoyed most of the blood sausage I've had in NY, not that it's all that commonly found. I haven't had an Argentine mixed grill in a long time. Bathazar has a nice breakfast dish, or at least a weekend brunch dish of blood sausages, poached eggs and potatoes.
Robert Buxbaum
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#16 User is offline   Pan

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Posted 01 February 2004 - 11:58 PM

Eric_Malson, on Feb 1 2004, 02:03 PM, said:

Try Uncle George's in Astoria, Queens (it's on Broadway, three of four blocks east of the train--what's the line that goes to Ditmars Blvd. called these days? W?).

The W and N both go there. The R does not, but goes to 71st & Continental in Forest Hills, instead.

#17 User is offline   ned

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Posted 02 February 2004 - 08:19 AM

Sweetbreads at Macelleria on gansevoort.

Sauteed veal kidneys (served with risotto milanese) at Cipriani's uptown.
You shouldn't eat grouse and woodcock, venison, a quail and dove pate, abalone and oysters, caviar, calf sweetbreads, kidneys, liver, and ducks all during the same week with several cases of wine. That's a health tip.

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#18 User is offline   mikeycook

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Posted 02 February 2004 - 09:07 AM

Bux, on Feb 1 2004, 02:09 PM, said:

jogoode, on Jan 31 2004, 11:21 PM, said:

How is the blood sausage? I have never eaten good blood sausage in NYC...

Hmm. Maybe I'm not a connoisseur, or maybe I'm just desparate, but I've enjoyed most of the blood sausage I've had in NY, not that it's all that commonly found. I haven't had an Argentine mixed grill in a long time. Bathazar has a nice breakfast dish, or at least a weekend brunch dish of blood sausages, poached eggs and potatoes.

I think the blood sausage at Les Halles is excellent (they make their own).
"If the divine creator has taken pains to give us delicious and exquisite things to eat, the least we can do is prepare them well and serve them with ceremony."
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#19 User is offline   Amuse Bouche

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Posted 02 February 2004 - 02:17 PM

I know Babbo has already been mentioned, but I have to give a special shout out to the lamb tongue vinaigrette. And does anyone know why the formerly beef cheek ravioli is now pig cheek ravioli?

#20 User is offline   herbacidal

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Posted 14 March 2004 - 04:21 PM

ned, on Feb 2 2004, 11:19 AM, said:

Sweetbreads at Macelleria on gansevoort.

Sauteed veal kidneys (served with risotto milanese) at Cipriani's uptown.

I assume by uptown you're referring to 5th ave?
Herb aka "herbacidal"

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#21 User is offline   tanabutler

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Posted 14 March 2004 - 04:28 PM

Well, I haven't tried it yet, but I heard it's just offal.

#22 User is offline   jogoode

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Posted 14 March 2004 - 04:40 PM

I'll add to our list the excellent grilled sweetbreads I had at Argentine Pavillion a couple of days ago.
JJ Goode

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www.jjgoode.com

"For those of you following along, JJ is one of these hummingbird-metabolism types. He weighs something like eleven pounds but he can eat more than me and Jason put together..." -Fat Guy

#23 User is offline   Suzanne F

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Posted 14 March 2004 - 05:02 PM

Macellaria, YES! I realize it's possibly the only generally acceptable offal, but they've done a chicken-livers-over-soft-polenta that is wonderful.

And maybe Crispo, if Frank still does his brain-filled spinach pasta agnolotti. He did it at Zeppole (called it veal, though) and staff would . . . well, never mind, but it was great.

#24 User is offline   lambretta76

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Posted 16 March 2004 - 10:27 AM

I've not had this, but how many points do I get for directing people to Eastern Nights Cafe on Steinway Street in Astoria, a fantastic Egyptian hookah cafe with the translated entreé - Tongue and Testicles. Check and mate!

#25 User is offline   larrylee

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Posted 22 February 2007 - 04:27 PM

Celeste, on the UWS, serves Fegatini di Pollo - Sauteed Chicken Livers Deglazed with Balsamic Vinegar on Toasted Bread. It's hearty and delicious. The crostini looks burnt on first glance, but then you see it's soaking up the reduced vinegar.

Kang Suh, on 32nd St, occasionally serves gop chang (small intestine). It's traditionally served in a casserole of sorts, but you can ask for it to be grilled instead. It's one of those things usually hand-written on a sign and taped up to the wall.

New Yeah Shanghai: ox tongue and tripe - excellent texture on the tripe. Beef tongue is delicious, too.

Boudin noir at Les Halles: Seconded. I could eat this all day.

(editing for the umpteenth time)

This post has been edited by larrylee: 22 February 2007 - 04:31 PM


#26 User is offline   Sneakeater

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Posted 22 February 2007 - 04:30 PM

I had to fight to get Kang Suh to serve that to me. They didn't believe I would like it. I'll have to try it grilled now. Thanks.

#27 User is offline   Pan

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Posted 22 February 2007 - 08:48 PM

Is beef tendon a kind of offal? If so, the beef tendon dishes at Spicy & Tasty, Grand Sichuan, and (New) Yeah Shanghai are excellent. Spicy & Tasty is probably the best of the three.

I also used to enjoy the pigfoot noodle soup at Chao Zhou in Flushing. I haven't been there for a while, but for a cheap, working person's offal dish, that's a good one.

This post has been edited by Pan: 23 February 2007 - 10:48 AM


#28 User is offline   Gastro888

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Posted 23 February 2007 - 07:05 AM

I like to order "Jah Dai Cheung" in most Cantonese restaurants. That's fried pork intenstine, aka chitterlin's. It's served with a sweet and sour sauce on the side and it's so bad for you but it's my favorite starter.

#29 User is offline   larrylee

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Posted 23 February 2007 - 09:34 AM

Sneakeater, on Feb 22 2007, 07:30 PM, said:

I had to fight to get Kang Suh to serve that to me.  They didn't believe I would like it.  I'll have to try it grilled now.  Thanks.
View Post


Awesome, I'm glad you got them to serve it! As I recall, the portion they served for the grill was probably enough for four. We were a party of two so we just ate it with banchan and rice and drank soju.

#30 User is offline   Sneakeater

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Posted 23 February 2007 - 09:35 AM

I pretty much just eat whatever amount is put in front of me.

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