bpearis, on Jan 20 2004, 04:51 PM, said:
jogoode, on Jan 20 2004, 04:33 PM, said:
what about that staten island place: joe & pat's? (sorry if i've massacred the real name.)
I always heard Denino’s was the awesome Staten Island pizza place, though I think most Islanders are pretty loyal about their local places. There's also Nunzio's and Pal Joey's though a friend tells me that some place called Lee's is the best.
Since I'm from Staten Island I'll weigh in with what I know even though I haven't been to any of these places in quite some time.
The conventional wisdom seems to be that both Denino's and Nunzio's offer some of the best pizza in Staten Island, if not the entire city and I would concur (although I've never had any of the "standard bearers" like DiFara's to be able to compare them to.) Nunzio's, which used to be a takeout and slices shack with a ratty yet atmospheric dining space in the back has recently been renovated from a tumbledown shack to a more substantial joint so I don't know if the quality of the pizza has survived the change. And of course Denino's is best in the spring or summer when you can go across the street to Ralph's Famous Italian Ices for dessert.
I've never eaten at Joe and Pat's but it seems to have an exellent reputation also.
From the Village Voice:
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Long isolated from the other boroughs, Staten Island has developed its own distinctive style of pizza, halfway between thin-crust and thick. Meriting the encomium "low dive," Denino's has been slinging Staten Island pizza and incredible scungilli salad for over 50 years, and is also a great place to sit and drink beer. Another sterling producer of this style is Nunzio's, located a stone's throw from the beach in a frame structure that seems like it might blow away at any moment.
From Ed Levine in the NY Times in November, 2002:
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Here are six places that make Neapolitan-style slices worth going out of your way for. .....
NUNZIO'S A slice from Nunzio's is a pristine exercise in elegant pizza minimalism. Everything about it is right: the ratio of sauce to cheese, the crisp yet pliant crust and the tangy sauce enlivened by fresh basil. Nunzio's even looks the way a pizzeria should: it is a white stucco shack with a tiny dining room brightened by black and white photos of the original Nunzio's in South Beach, Staten Island. 2155 Hylan Boulevard (Midland Avenue), Grant City, Staten Island; (718) 667-9647.
JOE & PAT'S Giuseppe Pappalardo, an owner, mastered his craft at three legendary Staten Island slice establishments: Nunzio's, Ciro's and Tokie's. His slices are distinguished by a superthin crispy crust. "They're easier to digest," he said, "so you can eat a lot of them." 1758 Victory Boulevard (Manor Road), Four Corners, Staten Island; (718) 981-0887.
From NYMetro.com:
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At the risk of enraging the Staten Island pizza mob, those who crave a true thin crust, a mildly sweet crushed-tomato sauce, and a delicate dose of mozzarella might consider bypassing the hallowed grounds of Denino's for this nondescript, unatmospheric pizzeria done up in pre-fab Greek-diner décor and staffed by what must be half the local sophomore class of idly gossiping high-school girls. But when one of them can be troubled to take your order and deliver your fourteen-inch medium pie ($9.75), the environs melt away like artful dabs of cheese into a winningly thin crust.
Joe & Pat's Pizzeria
1758 Victory Blvd At Manor Rd.
718-981-0887
Pal Joey's recently moved to a new location. My experience and sense of the place was that it was supremely mediocre at best, and according to the food forum of the local paper it's gotten much worse since it moved.
Pal Joey's
676 Forest Avenue
718-981-3737
Lee's Tavern seems to be the dark horse that doesn't have the borough-and-further-wide reputation like Denino's (and to a lesser degree Nunzio's.) I know that Jim Leff has raved about it and that it gets rave in food forum of the paper (for whatever that's worth.)
From Jim Leff's 2000 review:
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Their's is pretty close to a perfect rendition of the classic Staten Island style pizza: cracker crust, acidic fresh tomato sauce (containing few herbs) and just enough good cheese to mollify that acid and perk up the plain wheaty crust (there's no oil in it whatsoever, no cornmeal dusting, and almost no salt). .........
Lee's sauce was so good that it almost recalled DiFara's, at least in its utter lack of processed tomato taste and it's optimal acidity; it made me want to come back and order pastas and heroes (there's nothing fancy, of course, though there are some unusual pizza toppings like calamari and pesto). The pie as a whole was extremely impressive, and well worth a special trip,.......
From the Village Voice's Top 100 Cheap Eats in NYC (which also lists Denino's and Nunzio's):
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Lee's Tavern
Tumble down the embankment from the Dongan Hills station and find yourself at Lee's, an antediluvian bar with no sign outside. Inside, a decor of dark woods stained even darker by millions of cigarettes, and a very tasty and unusual pizza. With a crust that resembles matzo, it's like a contemporary Roman pie. The sausage and cheese used are of memorably high quality, the sauce admirably light.
Lee's Tavern
60 Hancock St
718-667-9749
Oh, and FWIW, in the above review of Lee's, Jim Leff also says:
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Forget about Nunzio's, a famous place pretty nearby. Their pizza is not bad, but can't compare. You will pass, however, Roma's (on Hylan near Clove Road), which makes great calzones and cheesecake (don't order any "real" food, though), and they do very respectable--if variable--slices, as well.
This post has been edited by hillbill: 20 January 2004 - 06:32 PM