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Madeleines: Tips & Techniques MERGED TOPIC

#1 User is offline   MartyL

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Posted 09 January 2003 - 09:21 PM

We're testing out some brand new Madeleine pans tomorrow and I was wondering whether anyone had any tried and true recipes worthy of inspiring Proustian memories.

Here's one recipe I found from Williams-Sonoma:

Madeleine Recipe from Williams-Sonoma

We were thinking about doing this one and substituting Rose Water for the "Orange Flower Water" called for in the recipe.

I'd be grateful for any suggestions.

#2 User is offline   bushey

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Posted 10 January 2003 - 07:55 AM

I, too, have madeleine pans that I've been meaning to use (I'm embarrassed to tell you how old they are). Patricia Wells has a recipe in her Food Lovers' Guide to Paris, which you can also find online through a search engine. She refers to them as lemon tea cakes.

Last weekend I pulled out the recipe but it calls for regular, unbleached flour but all I had was King Arthur's and I didn't feel like running out to get some. I know, I know, ambitious enough to bake madeleines but too lazy to go to the store. Story of my life :wink:. Looking forward to trying again.

#3 User is offline   Louisa Chu

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Posted 10 January 2003 - 03:41 PM

This is a classic recipe we use at Cordon Bleu Paris. Excellent results. If you're in the States use cake flour, in France it's type 45. Lemon zest is an option.

MADELEINES

20 pieces

Ingredients
4 eggs
170 g sugar
1 pinch salt
10 g honey
5 g baking powder
180 g flour
200 g butter

Preheat oven to 170°C, then reduce heat to160°C and bake.

Melt butter – no colour - cool to just warm.

In medium bowl, whisk eggs. Add sugar and honey then whisk lightly – do not overwork batter. Add flour, salt, baking powder, ½ melted butter then turn with whisk to just mix. Add ½ butter then turn with whisk to just mix. Cover bowl with plastic, chill, rest overnight.

Butter molds with softened butter – to maximum nearly filling depressions. Flour, bang off excess. Place smooth, medium tip in pastry bag, fill bag halfway with batter, barely fill molds evenly.

Bake on baking sheet, about 7 minutes, golden around with pale point/tête.

Unmold immediately by banging onto papered surface, turn immediately to cooling rack with têtes up.

#4 User is offline   Steve Klc

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Posted 10 January 2003 - 03:55 PM

I'd consider pairing pistachio flour or pistachio paste with the rosewater as an experiment, MartyL. Use a light hand with the rosewater. I prefer the "French" rosewater (and orange flower water) in the little blue bottles.

Of course this stretches the classic French nature of this.
Steve Klc

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#5 User is offline   Bond Girl

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Posted 10 January 2003 - 06:26 PM

Here is a try and tested one from Patricia Well's cook book:

13 Tbs of unsalted butter
1 2/3 cups of confectioners sugar
1/2 cup + 1 Tbs of flour
1/2 cup of finely ground unblanched almond
6 large egg whites
1 Tbs of honey

-Butter a madeleine tin and dust with flour
-Brown butter and set aside to cool
-sift sugar and flour and stir in ground almond
-Beat egg whites until frothy and stir in sugar flour almond mix
-stir in brown butter and honey
-spoon batter into t he molds (I prefer to use a pastry bag for this.)
-refrigerate the batter for about an hour
-bake in 375 oven for 10-15 minutes

Makes 24 Madeleines.
Ya-Roo Yang aka "Bond Girl"

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I don't ask for much, but whatever you do give me, make it of the highest quality.

#6 User is offline   LaurieA-B

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Posted 09 April 2004 - 02:12 PM

After enjoying the chocolate madeleines at Lark, I want to try baking some myself. I plan to try the Cook's Illustrated recipe first (plain, and then perhaps the chocolate variation). First I need the pan. King Arthur features the silicone madeleine pan. What do you think? Has anyone had great success with the silicone, or should I go for a traditional metal pan?

I think the reason that I never baked madeleines before is that I didn't want to buy a pan limited to one thing. But they are so delicious, and now that I have a baby I realize that mini-madeleines are a perfect kids' treat.
Hungry Monkey May 2009

#7 User is offline   nightscotsman

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Posted 09 April 2004 - 03:33 PM

Hi Laurie! Yes, the silicone pans work fine, and they release very easily, but they tend to give a shiney surface to the finished items that doesn't seem quite traditional. You should be able to find metal pans that are cheaper, and if you brush them liberally with soft butter mixed with flour (or brush with butter and dust with flour) they will pop out fine. Be sure the dump them out of the mold while they are still hot from the oven and cover with a kitchen towel to keep them from drying out.

One tip on madeleines: they don't keep well and aren't nearly as good the second day. But the batter does hold up in the fridge for a few days

#8 User is offline   NeroW

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Posted 10 April 2004 - 07:17 AM

I love madelines! We use a recipe like loufood's but we brown the butter.
Noise is music. All else is food.

#9 User is offline   foodie3

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Posted 12 July 2004 - 01:03 PM

i am planning to make some traditional ones, but can't decide which recipe to use - there sooo many;
what are your favorites?
do you rest/refrigerate batter?
do you use nonstick, tin or silicone pans, does size matter?

#10 User is offline   LT Wong

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Posted 13 July 2004 - 10:08 PM

I normally make a variation of the traditional one, except that I add orange flower water. I cannot remember where I got this recipe, but it was quite foolproof in that it worked the first time (I'm a weekend home baker). And I managed to get the dome too.

I do not rest nor chill the batter, and I use heavy aluminium pans.

My only problem with the recipe was that the madeleine sticks despite brushing with butter. But I picked up a tip from Cook's Illustrated on a recent article on madeleines. They recommend using a melted butter-flour mixture to brush on, and it worked very well for me ever since.

#11 User is offline   TheFuzzy

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Posted 13 July 2004 - 11:18 PM

LT, Foodie:

I prefer my sweetie's family recipe, with lemon zest and sugared lemon juic e applied after baking. And Oh! we have meyer lemons now, I should ask he to make some. Good idea!

For not sticking, we butter, then flour the pans with a sifter. Works great, and easy.

One note, though. Madelaines are 100% better when they're still warm, and they get stale within 12 hours in my experience. So they're best eaten straight out of the pan. I can't stand packaged madelaines ...
The Fuzzy Chef
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#12 User is offline   McDuff

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Posted 14 July 2004 - 03:58 AM

Healy and Bugat--The French Cookie Book

#13 User is offline   ludja

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Posted 14 July 2004 - 08:46 AM

I've had good success with Joel Robuchon's recipes in Simply French by Patricia Wells. (commission for egullet if you order thru this Amazon link; nice cookbook overall; elegant recipes from Robuchon but not too fussy or difficult; great writing by Patricia Wells).

There are recipes for five different flavors--I've made the honey ones and lemon ones and they are excellent (as mentioned above, served slightly warm). There are also recipes for chocolate, pistachio and hazelnut that I am now reinspired to try again soon.

The base recipe for the honey, lemon and chocolate ones contains ground almonds which I find to be really good. (don't think these are in all madeleine recipes I've seen). Another possible distinction in these recipes is that they have honey in addition to confectioner's sugar as a sweetener. Again, I haven't done side by side comparisons, but they sure do taste good... :smile:

Regarding technique, etc...

I have the traditional 3" molds; they are not non-stick, and I think they are heavy aluminum. Using a brush to coat them well with softened butter, then dusting with flour has worked well for me to eliminate sticking.

I haven't varied from the recipe's recommendation for chilling the batter in the molds for ~ 1 hour prior to baking. (Have gotton the nice little 'bumps' so I've been happy). :smile:
"Under the dusty almond trees, ... stalls were set up which sold banana liquor, rolls, blood puddings, chopped fried meat, meat pies, sausage, yucca breads, crullers, buns, corn breads, puff pastes, longanizas, tripes, coconut nougats, rum toddies, along with all sorts of trifles, gewgaws, trinkets, and knickknacks, and cockfights and lottery tickets."

-- Gabriel Garcia Marquez, 1962 "Big Mama's Funeral"


#14 User is offline   foodie3

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Posted 15 July 2004 - 08:47 AM

i am leaning towards p. rigo's recipe from american boulangerie; its a little different from others i've seen in that he doesn't whip the eggs, but rather adds them to melted butter.
LT Wong, how do you prepare the butter/flour combo for brushing the pans, is it thick?

#15 User is offline   rickster

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Posted 15 July 2004 - 09:31 AM

What are the secrets to getting the dome? I've tried umpteen recipes, including some of the ones mentioned, and have rarely been successful in this respect. Still taste pretty good though.

#16 User is offline   ludja

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Posted 15 July 2004 - 10:47 AM

rickster, on Jul 15 2004, 09:31 AM, said:

What are the secrets to getting the dome? I've tried umpteen recipes, including some of the ones mentioned, and have rarely been successful in this respect. Still taste pretty good though.

According to Bugat and Healy (The French Cookie Book) the key is not overbeating the eggs and not having too much baking powder. Then, when baking at high temperatures, the outside of the cookie gets a crust on it before the inside sets. Gases that are trapped inside push to form the hump.

(Baking powder releases gas for leavening and beating eggs incorporates air--so I guess if there is to much 'gas' inside the cookie, it will push through and the cookie will deflate. With the right conditions (gas in dough, temperature of baking, etc) things can balance out to get the hump.)

In the Patrica Wells/Joel Robuchon book I mentioned above, she avows that it is the chilling of the dough before baking that is important. Cooler temps will keep gases dissolved better and perhaps the starting with the cool dough also helps with crisping the outside of the madeleine before the inside sets as well....

On a different note--just noticed another big difference b/t the Bugat/Healy and Wells/Robuchon recipes besides those I mentioned above. Bugat/Healy ues whole eggs plus and extra egg yolk and has a small amount of baking powder. Wells/Robuchon uses only whipped egg whites (and no baking powder) for leavening...

I'm pretty sure the Bugat/Healy recipe would be the more classical--but as mentioned above the Wells/Robuchon ones that I've made have been excellent-- and have the humps! :smile: I need to compare the two now!


must edit to add: I am not a pro and am going by the books, my chemistry background and a modicum of baking experience!

This post has been edited by ludja: 15 July 2004 - 10:50 AM

"Under the dusty almond trees, ... stalls were set up which sold banana liquor, rolls, blood puddings, chopped fried meat, meat pies, sausage, yucca breads, crullers, buns, corn breads, puff pastes, longanizas, tripes, coconut nougats, rum toddies, along with all sorts of trifles, gewgaws, trinkets, and knickknacks, and cockfights and lottery tickets."

-- Gabriel Garcia Marquez, 1962 "Big Mama's Funeral"


#17 User is offline   AlainV

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Posted 16 July 2004 - 02:55 AM

For traditional madeleines, I use Gaston Lenôtre recipe in "Mes desserts préférés, 2001". The trick to get big humps is to refrigerate the dough for 24 hours. I use buttered non-stick pans and had no problems so far.

Joël Robuchon's recipe in "Simply french" works very well too but is not true madeleines. The use of whipped egg whites and ground almonds are a characteristic of the "Vistandines de Lorraine" dough. Very light and good but not true madeleine. :wink:

#18 User is offline   Wendy DeBord

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Posted 16 July 2004 - 05:30 AM

I haven't baked madeleines in years. At work, next months specials are French-so I chose madeleines as one of my specials. I knew you guys were talking about them so I thought I'd explore them further with your help. BUT so far no ones' post a recipe and I don't own any of the mentioned books. Any chance some of you would post the actual recipes, please????


I never refridgerated my madeleines before baking previously and sometimes I'd get the huge hump and sometimes not. I never knew you wanted the hump. We used to pair two together putting preserves between them and the humps were in the way so if they had them I'd slice them off.

I'm definately interested in learning more about these little cakes. How about flavors..........so far I've only made lemon, cinnamon and chocolate. What other flavors have you seen?

#19 User is offline   Andy Lynes

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Posted 16 July 2004 - 05:38 AM

This recipe is previously unpublished and given to me by British Michelin starred chef Bruce Poole and is the one he uses in the kitchen of his restaurant Chez Bruce:

6 eggs
225g caster sugar
30g Dark brown sugar
Pinch of salt
227g Plain Flour
1 1/2 tsp baking Powder
270g melted butter

Pre-heat the oven to 200C. Butter the madeleine tins, chill and then butter again. This will help prevent the madeleines from sticking. Hopefully. Otherwise, invest in a non-stick tin. Beat the eggs, add the following 5 ingredients and mix. Stir in the butter. Fill the madeleine molds and bake for 5 minutes for small madeleines or 10 minutes for large.

I achieved a good "bump" with this recipe without chilling the batter, but if Robuchon/Wells say chill it, then chill it.

#20 User is offline   Bond Girl

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Posted 16 July 2004 - 06:26 AM

I use the recipe from Dorie Greenspan's Paris Sweets book and experiementing with infusions like lemon verbena. Spoon the batter into a heavy aluminum brushed with butter and powdered with sugar, let it rest, and bake. The consistency here is more like a cake and less like a cookie.

The Joel Rubichon and Patricia Wells recipe never worked for me for some reason.
Ya-Roo Yang aka "Bond Girl"

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#21 User is offline   Elissa

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Posted 16 July 2004 - 07:08 AM

I've been curious to try Wells' Rosemary Parmesean Mads from her Bistro book, which calls for unbleached flour.
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#22 User is offline   foodie3

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Posted 18 July 2004 - 02:22 PM

madeleines from by p. rigo's american boulangerie. according to his instructions the batter was chilled overnight and the filled pans frozen for 10 mins prior to baking - i got nice "humps " as a result. the cookies taste pleasant and buttery with a somewhat cakey texture. they certainely could use a little extra flavoring, perhaps lemon or orange. now i want to try other recipes.



Posted Image

#23 User is offline   Wendy DeBord

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Posted 18 July 2004 - 02:42 PM

While at Starbucks today I noticed they are selling a little 3 pack of madeleines (I didn't see the price) but I thought it was interesting. Interesting because having a big chain introduce to tons of people to new products like "madeleines" only helps me sell them too. The more exposure people have to baked goods the better.


Anyway..........I'm curious about pan release with madeleines. I recall having problems in the past and I'd love to avoid problems as I venture into serious madeliene baking. I recall following dirrections about coating the pan with clarified butter and I also recall those sticking in the pan. Perhaps each recipe differs in it's sticking......but I recall having success with using hot pans. I'd heat them in the oven, pull them out, spray them with pan spray and bake and those released very cleanly.

Have any of you really spent some time playing with this issue and resolving it for you? Do you have one method that works with certain pans or certain formulas and other methods for other recipes and pans? Also are you prefering these little cakes plain or do you do anything to dress them up, if so what?.............or is there something you love them paired with?

#24 User is offline   nightscotsman

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Posted 18 July 2004 - 02:53 PM

Wendy, coat the pans generously with a butter flour mixture: 100 g pastry flour to 500 g butter. Just soften a bit in the microwave when you need it and brush on with pastry brush. Works like buttering and flouring, but much faster and much less mess. Also - and I'm sure you already knew this - the madeleines must be removed from the pan as soon as you take them out of the oven.

I think they make a nice garnish to some fruit desserts or ice cream. A nice change from the now ubiquitous tuile.

#25 User is offline   LaurieA-B

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Posted 18 July 2004 - 03:16 PM

Sinclair, on Jul 18 2004, 01:42 PM, said:

Also are you prefering these little cakes plain or do you do anything to dress them up, if so what?.............or is there something you love them paired with?

Lark in Seattle serves chocolate madeleines with a little pot of warm chocolate sauce to dip them in. I didn't actually try the sauce; the madeleines, tipped into a cloth napkin warm from the oven, were enough chocolate for me. So delicious.

Cook's Illustrated March/April 1996 has a brief article on madeleines and, as LT Wong stated above, recommends using a mixture of 2 t melted butter and 1 t flour brushed onto the pan. Their variations are lemon/orange, rosemary, chocolate, and almond. I haven't yet baked madeleines, but I have the pan now and was thinking of trying the Chestnut-Honey Madeleines from The Last Course.
Hungry Monkey May 2009

#26 User is offline   Wendy DeBord

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Posted 18 July 2004 - 07:43 PM

I read Dorie Greenspans description/introduction to madeleines in her Paris Sweets book this evening. She got my brain working a little when she mentioned the recipe she published is flexible enough to be used as a base and you could be creative with it. Then I looked at Bellouets Petite Four book and the light went on. O.k. these don't have to be little lemon cakes, these can be anything I want little cakes. I particularly liked a combo of flavors Bellouet does where he pipes a second flavor into the center of the first.

Hum........like everything else there aren't really any rules.....oh yah. So when does it not become a madeleine?

I have to buy more pans for convience...........I'm leaning toward the flexipans unless someone here stops me. So they appear shinier, might they retain their moisture better?

And Dorie mentioned giving your madeleine a soaking after they are baked-I'm digging that!

#27 User is offline   AlainV

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Posted 19 July 2004 - 04:06 AM

This is the recipe from "Les desserts de mon enfance" by Gaston Lenôtre (2001, pp 182-185).

Ingredients :

150 gr AP flour
125 gr melted butter, cooled
130 gr white sugar
3 large eggs
1 teaspoon baking powder
pinch of salt
zest from half lemon
20 gr acacia honey

Instructions :

Put eggs, sugar, salt and honey in the bowl of a standing mixer. Whisk at high speed until ribbon stage. Carefuly whisk sifted flour, baking powder, lemon zest and cooled melted butter.

Cling the bowl and put it in the fridge for 24 hours.

After the 24 hours rest, take the dough from the fridge and put the bowl on the counter for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, brush non-stick madeleines pans with melted butter and keep in the fridge.

After 1 hour, fill each cavity of the pans to 2/3 with dough.

Put the pans in the middle of a 220° C oven for 8 to 10 minutes. Be careful not to overcook (color must be light golden, not brown). Let cool on wires and keep in a tied fit container. Madeleines freeze very well.

Sorry for the poor traduction but I do what I can (I am french-speaking) :smile:

#28 User is offline   foodie3

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Posted 19 July 2004 - 10:07 PM

i am reading paris sweets also, want to try both her classic madeleines and the chocolate version from chocolate desserts by p. herme. the recipe for financiers is also on my short list.
here is p. rigo's recipe for madeleines from american boulangerie:

3 cups+2 Tbsp ap flour

2.5 tsp baking powder

8 extra-large eggs

2 tsp vanilla extract

14.5 oz unsalted butter, melted

2.75 cups powdered sugar

.25 cup light brown sugar, packed

3 Tbsp honey

In an electic mixer w/a whisk mix melted butter w/powdered sugar untill smooth, add brown sugar and honey. Add half of the flour/baking powder mixture, mix on low till smooth. Whisk together eggs and vanilla and gradually add w/ mixer on low, scraping sides and bottom of the mixing bowl till smooth. Add remaining flour. Refrigerate the batter at least 4 hrs or up to 2 days.
Butter and flour the pans, chill to set butter, fill each well 3/4 full, freeze for 10 mis and bake at 375F for 22-26 mins till golden brown. this recipe makes 35 madeleines.

#29 User is offline   foodie3

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Posted 21 July 2004 - 12:59 PM

made more madeleines today, used recipe from paris sweets by dorie greenspan. the texture is lighter but the humps are less obvious than in p. rigo's recipe, will try her chocolate recipe next.

#30 User is offline   Wendy DeBord

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Posted 09 August 2004 - 10:15 AM

I made 4 recipes, 3 from Bellouets petite four book and the traditional lemon version from Dorie Greenspan. Bellouets were good......not great. His flavoring is so subtle that they're lost by taste alone. I made his pistachio version because I love p. paste- anyway if any of you make this add some food coloring......the natural color looks very unappealing.

I was more excited by Dories recipe. I think I will try each flavor from her book Paris Sweets. I got HUGE domes. I let the batter sit in the cooler for 4 days before I had time to finish using it. It bubbles up alot in the bowl but baked out fine.

I also experimented with silicone molds verses non-stick and reg. aluminum. I much prefered the silicone baked madeleines. I love the extra depth of the pan and I think that factor plus the tighter crumbed top leaves your madelienes moister then traditional pans. No matter which pan I use I don't think you can get a decent mini madeliene. There just isn't enough volume to remain moist. Both full sized and mini's were too dry if you let them take on any color at all.

So I have these as my monthly special as I mentioned earilier on thread........and we do a tasting for the waitstaff on these. My chef came back to me after the tasting with the comments being "they're a bit dry".........no one was very thrilled over this dessert. At first I was bumbed out. Now I have mixed thoughts. 1. I never found the excitement over these myself as I've read from others. In otherwords I agree they aren't really anything special. 2. Perhaps it's just not an American item. We wouldn't be caught dead eating plain lady fingers either.

To compromise, I've desided that brushing them with simple syrup after baking greatly increases it's appeal. I've haven't had time to flavor my s.s. but thats the next step I will take. So far my sales on this have been horrible...........so I need to rethink how I'm serving these. They totally need an accompaniment for my clientele.

I feel left out, cause I feel the same way about traditional macaroons..........I want to love them like everyone else-but really when it comes down to it, I'd rather eat an oreo.

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