mbhank, on 20 August 2010 - 03:21 PM, said:
The great French Chef Paul Bocuse published a cookbook quite a number of years ago that even Julia Child said was horrible. A couple of recipes that I remember were
Ham Cooked in Hay and a casserole of
Ortolans, which are French songbirds. That would be like a recipe for a casserole of Robins here. I still have the book.

But Ham in Hay is a dish with a venerable tradition - and in the present it even finds a place in Fergus Henderson's esteemed Nose to Tail Cooking. See
http://www.telegraph...ail-eating.html Quote
Comments from our panel: A leg of gammon is such an enormous thing ... so you might consider only buying half a leg. You will need surprisingly little hay which, as pet shops are far more numerous than good butchers, is easily available. Six good handfuls is plenty.
As the recipe says, the hay is not edible, but neither is the stock, which becomes revoltingly salty by the end of the cooking.
The ham, though, is excellent, surprisingly strongly flavoured by the hay so it has an outdoorsy, countryside feel to it. It is beautifully soft and tender.
The poor little Ortolan has had the misfortune to be considered a gastronomic delight in France - and has therefore been hunted to the verge of extinction.
Laws were introduced to protect it in 1999, but were barely enforced until 2007 (at least in part following the revelations about Mitterand's infamous 'last supper').
Before those dates it was EXACTLY the sort of thing that a 'high end' restaurateur like Bocuse would feel obligated to offer. More here -
http://www.telegraph...s-outlawed.html Quote
French gourmands are to be denied what one restaurant critic describes as the "barbaric pleasure" of feasting on tiny songbirds after their government announced that it intended finally to enforce laws that have been on the statute books for eight years. ...
The prized birds can fetch up to €150 (£102) {call it about $150 US} each if sold illegally to restaurants. Diners savour the ritual almost as much as the flavour.
While I think that recipes for Ortolan make an interesting historical document, just as with foie gras recipes, I don't think they should nowadays be seen as an invitation to prepare the dishes.
There are so, so many ways a cookbook can be bad.
It makes it hard to choose the single worst.
For lack of ambition and down-market down-dumbing, Chris Hennes is spot on with the genre of equipment instruction recipe books.
For impracticality, the category would likely be headed by The Fat Duck Cookbook and The French Laundry.
For strong negative shelf-appeal there's The SPAM Cookbook (closely followed by
The Roadkill Cookbook ...) I do have an old (well, surprising modern considering - 1930's) Scottish cookery-school book with a recipe for Sheep's Head Broth (I particularly recall the important instruction to brush the teeth clean BEFORE putting the head in the pot).
For recipes that simply don't work, I'd nominate the curing section of HFW's Meat.
While I do greatly enjoy Nigel Slater's ideas for food, I really am put off by Nigel Slater writing about Nigel Slater, or even worse, writing about
being Nigel Slater. Kitchen Diaries deserves mention in this context.
On the Cholesterol count, what can beat the original Galloping Gourmet?
For smugness, unexciting food and excessive name-dropping, I propose Ismail Merchant's Indian Cuisine.
I reckon Suas' Advanced Bread and Pastry scores in many areas, but its ability to state simplistic things wrongly is matched only by its (unstated) subversive basic concept of 'faux artisan'. As the politician said "Once you can fake sincerity, you are getting somewhere". I
really didn't like that book.
But there's maybe
only one book that I actually viscerally loathe ...
As the Amazon UK product description
accurately states
"How to Cheat is for people who don't want to cook, who think they can't cook, or simply don't have the time to cook."
And its a very, very, very big seller.
Totally coincidentally, it was also yesterday that blogger and occasional eGulleteer Tim Hayward invited nominations at the Guardian for the worst food books.
He got some interesting responses ... (160 so far)
http://www.guardian....orst-food-books
This post has been edited by dougal: 21 August 2010 - 07:11 AM
"If you wish to make an apple pie from scratch ... you must first invent the universe." - Carl Sagan