=R=
NOCA (North of Camelback) molto e has a restaurant!
#31
Posted 25 August 2008 - 02:11 PM
=R=
LTHForum.com's Weekly Chicago Food-Media Digest
ronnie_suburban 'at' yahoo.com
#32
Posted 25 August 2008 - 03:44 PM
Ronnie, I'm jealous!
"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.
Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder
"Docsconz - The Blog"
Twitter - @docsconz
eGullet Ethics Signatory
#33
Posted 11 September 2008 - 07:58 AM
One Sunday the amuse was the chilled white corn soup seen on the main menu. That amuse was a tease so this time I had to satisfy myself with a full order.
Chilled White Corn Soup
Baby Carrots, Chorizo Croquettes, Smoked Paprika Oil



Next was a Crudo
Big Eye Tuna
Roasted Peppers, Jalapéno Tempura, Red Wine Gastrique, Red Sichuan Pepper
Corn

I have had this before but tonight the preperation was a little different, the tuna being seared. Chef Curtiss is a wizard with crudo. The flavor combinations he conjures up are magical.
Some pasta
Agnolotti
Pancetta, Pork, Beef, Herb Butter

It doesn't seem that pancetta, pork, and beef would be a light dish, however these little stuffed pillows were delicate and delicious.
Spinach Mezzaluna
Ricotta, Mascarpone, Pecorino, Balsamic

Molto bene Chef Curtiss
A little gelato to end the meal and Bob's you uncle you have another dining option at noca.
This post has been edited by ahurwich: 11 September 2008 - 08:05 AM
#34
Posted 25 September 2008 - 03:37 PM
More props for NOCA:
Phoenix NewTimes "Best of Phoenix" Best Place to Take a Foodie
Phoenix Magazine one of Phoenix' Best New Restaurants.
This post has been edited by ahurwich: 25 September 2008 - 03:39 PM
#35
Posted 29 September 2008 - 03:14 PM
August 22, 2008
My husband and I had a 6:00 reservation for dinner. We arrived 15 minutes early and were surprised to find only a couple tables occupied. No worries, the restaurant filled up very quickly, we must have just beat the crowd! NOCA has a very comfortable, modern and a little swanky feel to it. Not only is Eliot an amazing host, visiting each table and making recommendations, but his staff was friendly, attentive and on the ball the entire evening.
The food:
I can't remember the last time I smiled so much during a meal. The amuse to start was the finest dice of canteloupe and honeydew served in an asian ceramic spoon. The surprise was that in putting it in my mouth I also tasted mint and had the lovely pop of pop-rocks. It took me back to childhood in the best way possible!
Apps: We tried two: first, the tuna crudo with tempura jalepeno and sechwan pepper. The freshness and balance of the dish made it so hard to share! Additionally the lobster raviolo was earthy, savory and sweet. Eliot assured me that he would not think less of me for licking the sauce from the dish but I did find a small amount of restraint deep within. My husband and I were in heaven!
Pasta:
We shared the little pillows of pasta, Agnolotti before our mains. So tender and light even though the filling would suggest something denser. It was very rich and a little was enough for both of us. One note was that I expected the filling to be smoother. Although it was not chunky, it did have a fine texture to it. This is not a complaint, only an observation based on what my initial thought of the dish would be.
Mains:
Duck: Wowie. With a cornbread pudding. This was so very good, cooked absolutely perfectly. My husband declared this the winner for him. He loves bread pudding but the savory ones usually don't float his boat, um... he ate the whole thing.
Dessert:
OK, we were absolutely stuffed by now and we couldn't help ourselves. You know how when you don't like a place it doesn't matter what the desserts are, you just can't bring yourself to try them? Well, for NOCA, the whole meal was just so amazing that we just had to try the desserts too!
The first thing to arrive at our table was the cotton candy. Again, I was grinning so big I thought my face was going to split in half! I was so freakin' happy! I could have stopped there but, ahem, no. We couldn't decide so Eliot brought out a sampler. I think I split my sides. Donuts, vanilla malted shake, chocolate cake thing, chocolate chip cookie. My head was spinning.
Drinks:
They made a perfect Manhattan, the bar did its thing! And the ice is great... one huge fist of ice in the glass, slower to melt and slower to dilute the drink! The decaf coffee was French pressed so it was rich and dark. A perfect end to a perfectly lovely meal.
Don't walk... RUN... to get to NOCA. And introduce yourself to Eliot, he is a superbly charming host! Many thanks Eliot from both Lance and myself!
#36
Posted 03 October 2008 - 12:41 PM
The crudo menu was amazing= especially the big eye tuna, and kampachi. We ate the foie torchon both nights, and it was perfect. The pasta's also were fantastic- I haven't had a agnolotti that good since Paul Bartolota left Spiaggia. The entrees were equally delicious- steak frites, and pork chop with the seared pork belly were my favorites. Everyone seems to enjoy the cotton candy they serve gratis after dinner. I didn't know cotton candy could taste that good- deffinitely not the ballpark type. Another whimsical touch is the way they serve the drinks- if you order a vodka soda you get a glass with a frozen ice ball and vodka, and then the soda in a separate carafe to pour as you please.
The desserts were also great, and that would be something I would normally skip escpeially after 3 apps, a pasta, and an entrée but they were to good not to eat. All in all great experiences both nights, and great atmosphere. The music is great, the staff are all clearly veterans to the industry. Of course there is also Eliot working the room, and making sure everyone has a good experience- I am so impressed. He has hit a homerun on his first at bat, and works the room like a pro. I know this restaurant is going to be a huge success, and everyone should make the trip to see for themselves.
This post has been edited by hel313: 03 October 2008 - 11:44 PM
#37
Posted 04 October 2008 - 03:50 PM
hel313, on Oct 3 2008, 12:41 PM, said:
The crudo menu was amazing= especially the big eye tuna, and kampachi. We ate the foie torchon both nights, and it was perfect. The pasta's also were fantastic- I haven't had a agnolotti that good since Paul Bartolota left Spiaggia. The entrees were equally delicious- steak frites, and pork chop with the seared pork belly were my favorites. Everyone seems to enjoy the cotton candy they serve gratis after dinner. I didn't know cotton candy could taste that good- deffinitely not the ballpark type. Another whimsical touch is the way they serve the drinks- if you order a vodka soda you get a glass with a frozen ice ball and vodka, and then the soda in a separate carafe to pour as you please.
The desserts were also great, and that would be something I would normally skip escpeially after 3 apps, a pasta, and an entrée but they were to good not to eat. All in all great experiences both nights, and great atmosphere. The music is great, and the staff are all clearly veterans to the industry. Of course there is also Eliot working the room, and making sure everyone has a good experience- I am so impressed. He has hit a homerun on his first at bat, and works the room like a pro. I know this restaurant is going to be a huge success, and everyone should make the trip to see for themselves.
#38
Posted 27 October 2008 - 02:05 PM
My friend Eliot (whose moniker is molto e on these forums) worked on opening Noca for well over 2 years. It was grueling just witnessing the process from the sidelines. I cannot fathom anyone working harder -- or smarter -- to get a restaurant off the ground. From time he spent staging in restaurants over the years (learning how the big boys do it), to building networks of contacts, suppliers and investors, to hiring a dream team of FOH and BOH personnel, to securing a prime location and so much more, he left no detail unattended in his quest to bring Noca to fruition. There was absolutely no compromise in his process.
For no other purpose than checking it out and congratulating Eliot, the family and I trekked out to Phoenix earlier this month. We spent a long weekend there, during which we ate 3 consecutive dinners at Noca. The entire experience was exceptional. Over the 3 meals, we were served nothing that was less than great and much of what we ate was exceptional. Between Eliot's dedication, chef Chris Curtiss' mastery and the cornucopia of top-shelf ingredients used at Noca -- many of which are local and organic -- we weren't exactly surprised.
Below are some pics from our meals. It was comfortably dark in the space and not everything we ate photographed successfully. Still, I was able to capture a large portion of what we had . . .

Noca is located at 3118 E Camelback Rd in Phoenix, AZ

Queen Creek Olives and Roasted Almonds
While baguette is also available, during our visit, these locally grown and cured olives were served, along with roasted almonds.

Amuse: Salad of organic, free-range eggs with crispy chorizo and garlic chives
Fantastic and rich . . . I'd like a sandwich of this, please!

Amuse: Blue cheese gougere
Another intensely-flavored palate stimulator.

Kampachi Crudo with ginger creme fraiche, avocado and smoked paprika oil
The crudos at Noca are phenomenal -- immaculate and delicious.

Big Eye Tuna Crudo with ponzu gelee, fresh wasabi, cucumber and red sichuan peppercorn
This combination was truly inspired. The fresh wasabi, grated in-house with a sharkskin grater, was a scintillating touch.

Salad of roasted baby Chiogga and Red beets with golden delicious apples, Port Reyes Blue Cheese and micro arugula
Sweet and savory brought together delectably. The cheese and apples complimented the tender beets and the mild bitterness of the arugula provided a nice point of focus.

Salad of organic heirloom tomatoes with crispy shallots, Banyuls vinaigrette and basil seed oil
These tomatoes, from farmer Bob McClendon, were phenomenal. I loved the crispy shallots, which were a cool touch.

Simple salad of organic vegetables and lettuces with brioche croutons, candied pecans, pecorino and cabernet vinaigrette
There was so much to this delicious salad, which was hardly simple at all. A fantastic combination of flavors and textures that went far beyond the sum of its parts.

Laughing Bird Shrimp raviolo with braised artichoke hearts, arugula and barigoule
Tender shrimp tucked into house-made pasta, paired with artichokes, was another winner.

Duo of Peekytoe Crab: Crab Cake with remoulade and pickled cucumbers
A great, minimal rendition, served with house-made pickles.

Duo of Peekytoe Crab: Crab Salad with avocado and orange
Fresh crab meat in a great pairing from chef Curtiss.

Dayboat Scallop with broccoli rabe, celery root, applewood-smoked bacon and shallot jus
I loved this course, where it was all about quality and execution. It's a straightforward dish in which nothing can hide. So, the ingredients have to be excellent and prepared with skill. Everything was perfect here: the scallops, the broccoli rabe and the celeriac. This was an appetizer version. The entree version is served with potato gnocchi.

Duck Confit with napa cabbage slaw, citrus-honey vinaigrette and curry oil
Excellent version with a slaw that was almost as compelling as the tender duck.

"Caviar" of organic eggplant with buckwheat blinis, pickled red onion, lemon and chive creme fraiche
A successful play on traditional caviar service, this eggplant-based version is fun and satisfying. Even the blinis were spot on. As with everything at Noca, all the accoutrements for this dish are made in-house.

Spaghetti Chitarra with spicy San-Marzano tomato sauce and fresh oregano
This dish is served with a fresh tomato sauce in-season and San Marzano tomatoes when fresh are not in season. The choice to use fresh oregano was inspired. The noodles were cooked to a perfect al dente. As was alluded to above, all pastas are made in-house at Noca.

Spinach Mezzaluna filled with ricotta, mascarpone and pecorino, drizzled with a balsamic glaze
The filling in these little half-moons was sublime. It was creamy and rich, and the lingering aromatic tang of the pecorino was immensely satisfying.

Pappardelle with braised lamb ragout
The third of Noca's 3 pasta offerings, this one may have been my favorite. Both the pasta and the ragout were easily good enough to be eaten alone.

Seared Duck Breast with Alsatian tart, sauteed arugula, pickled huckleberries and duck jus
Perfectly seared duck, accompanied by the wonderful tart that was filled with caramelized onions and gruyere cheese. I loved the huckleberries, too, which were a great accent.

Wild Alaskan Halibut with braised escarole, potato pave, glazed pearl onions and onion jam
I thought that across the board, chef Curtiss' skills with fish and seafood were exceptional. Here, the fish is cooked to perfection and the other components, which were all fantastic, highlighted the halibut without obscuring it. This touch was evident throughout our 3 meals. I'm usually not a fish fan but I've been thinking about it constantly since our time at Noca.

Kampachi with grilled peach, micro arugula and balsamic glaze
This combination surprised and impressed me. The fish was, again, cooked perfectly and the peach and arugula provided interesting counterpoints -- both sweet and bitter -- to its fattiness.

Lobster Roll
This is the Wednesday special at Noca and it's simply awesome. The lobster is sourced from the same supplier to The French Laundry. Here, it's served on a toasted brioche roll, along with duck-fat fries, house-made pickles and an addictive smoked paprika aioli that was a perfectly rendered condiment.

Duo of Pork: Kurobuta Pork Belly with french green beans
Tender meat and sticky fat, with deep flavor. Awesome!

Duo of Pork: Kurobuta Pork Tenderloin with coriander spaetzle, golden delicious apples and sweet & sour demi
Masterful use of the circulator transformed this often avoidable cut into something moist, delicious and truly memorable.

Prime Beef Ribeye with olive oil-poached fingerling potatoes, thumbelina carrots, baby turnips and bordelaise
Another straightforward and delicious dish, distinguished by the kitchen's attention to detail. It could have been ordinary. Instead, it was anything but.

Seared Big Eye Tuna with braised beet greens, roasted heirloom beets and beet vinaigrette
It was fun tasting the Big Eye tuna 2 ways. This seared version -- which was served with a small portion of the aforementioned crudo -- was delicious, and the pairing with the beets-3-ways was completely inspired, and new to me.

Atlantic Skate and red wine-braised Short Rib Raviolo, with cranberry bean puree, sauteed spinach, royal trumpet mushrooms and ruby port reduction
Unspeakably delicious. This was perfect. I couldn't believe the combination of flavors and textures here. The rich skate was tender and silky and the raviolo (house-made pasta, again) was fantastic.

Steak Frites: Skirt steak with melted leeks, Tuscan fries and red wine sauce
This is not something I would ordinarily order but we wanted to try as many of chef Curtiss' dishes as possible. As it turns out, not surprisingly, it was a fantastic rendition that indicated a rarely-encountered level of execution.

Wild Striped Bass with pearl onions, pearl onion jam and shallot jus
The skin on this moist piece of fish was as crispy -- and tasty -- as a potato chip. Pairing it with the onion and shallot components was a great idea because the flavors really sang together.

Dessert amuse of cotton candy
After dinner is over, each table is served a complimentary tower of cotton candy, which is a nice bridge to dessert. On this night it was strawberry. The blueberry version looks just like Marge Simpson's hair.
The dessert menu at Noca was conceived, in part, by noted pastry chef Kriss Harvey, who has worked with some of the world's top chefs, including Joël Robuchon.

Warm Doughnut Holes with dulce de leche jam, raspberry jelly and dark chocolate sauce
Fantastic, fresh donuts that were just about the best I've had. They were slightly dense with a certain lightness and a subtle tanginess. The dipping sauces were fantastic, too, especially the DdL.

Chocolate and Banana Pudding Cake with caramel, banana gelato (not pictured) and white chocolate sauce
An intense dessert, which really satisfied the chocolate craving that I often experience after a boldly-flavored meal.

Cheesecake (balls) with walnut praline, pineapple, carrot cake crumble and white chocolate sauce
This 'cheesecake' was phenomenal. Not only was the cheesecake component rich and creamy but I could have eaten a boxful of the carrot cake crumble on its own (if I weren't already stuffed).

Milk & Cookies: Malted Vanilla Shake
Here's the 'milk' component, which was really malty and distinctive. It was like liquified vanilla crack.

Milk & Cookies: Chocolate Chip Cookies
Delectable cookies, served warm out of the oven.

Milk & Cookies: Chocolate Chip Cookies
In all their gooey goodness. I think this picture is worth 1,000 words, at least
We had a few other dishes that just didn't photograph well, which I definitely want to mention. Mostly notably on the savory side was a wild mushroom soup that was earthy and rich -- just a stunningly delicious version. On the dessert side, the refreshing fruit soup, which is decanted tableside, is crisp and intense without being overly sweet.
All in all, it was hard to leave Phoenix, knowing that we'd be leaving Noca behind, as well. I went out there with extremely high expectations and they were just blown away. After 3 days of eating chef Curtiss' cooking, I felt downright spoiled. His aesthetic spoke to me in a way that made me feel like he'd reached into my soul and knew exactly what I wanted to eat. I guess that shouldn't have surprised me because as many meals as I'd shared and enjoyed with Eliot, I should have guessed that Noca's menu would be written in a similar vein. Still the reality of the food at Noca easily surpassed the intellectual understanding of it. Yes, it's more than the sum of its parts, it's the collaborative effort of a team of people who love food and love nurturing others with it. Plain and simple, this is a restaurant by and for foodies, and it's in a class of its own.
=R=
Noca
3118 E Camelback Rd
Phoenix, AZ 85016
(602) 956-6622
This post has been edited by ronnie_suburban: 27 October 2008 - 07:07 PM
LTHForum.com's Weekly Chicago Food-Media Digest
ronnie_suburban 'at' yahoo.com
#39
Posted 27 October 2008 - 02:27 PM
"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.
Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder
"Docsconz - The Blog"
Twitter - @docsconz
eGullet Ethics Signatory
#40
Posted 27 October 2008 - 02:29 PM
"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.
Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder
"Docsconz - The Blog"
Twitter - @docsconz
eGullet Ethics Signatory
#42
Posted 27 October 2008 - 05:06 PM
robert40, on Oct 27 2008, 06:07 PM, said:
I just caught it, so to speak. It was definitely the crew at Noca who hit it.
=R=
LTHForum.com's Weekly Chicago Food-Media Digest
ronnie_suburban 'at' yahoo.com
#44
Posted 31 October 2008 - 11:41 AM
#45
Posted 31 October 2008 - 12:17 PM
Director of Operations, eG Forums.
camirault@eGstaff.org
eG Ethics Signatory
...on his sweater already, mom's spaghetti...
#46
Posted 01 November 2008 - 03:02 PM
chrisamirault, on Oct 31 2008, 02:17 PM, said:
Chris,
2 cups Red Wine Vinegar
1 cup Sugar
1 cup Water
3 pieces Whole Star Anise
1 Vanilla Bean Split
5 Allspice
1/2 Tablespoon Whole Black Peppercorns
4 cloves
toast spices in a pan...add vin, water, sugar and v bean to toasted spices let simmer until sugar dissolves and everything has enough time to "mingle" then strain liquid over huckleberries and let cool to room temp then refrigerate for up to two weeks
less fuss way to enjoy:
come to noca...order...put in mouth...say yum :)
we also use them on a seared foie dish with black pepper- fuji apple reduction, pickled huckleberries, brioche crouton...
Best,
E
MoltoE@restaurantnoca.com
#47
Posted 03 November 2008 - 12:06 AM
#48
Posted 03 November 2008 - 07:51 AM
And Chow Bella was also what last Sunday's Italian night was at NOCA. Looking forward to BBQ night and really looking forward to Cajun night. Only three more weeks until Fried Chicken again.
If food is the object of obsession is it still considerd stalking?
This post has been edited by ahurwich: 03 November 2008 - 08:54 AM
#49
Posted 05 November 2008 - 04:02 PM
molto e, on Nov 1 2008, 05:02 PM, said:
chrisamirault, on Oct 31 2008, 02:17 PM, said:
Chris,
2 cups Red Wine Vinegar
1 cup Sugar
1 cup Water
3 pieces Whole Star Anise
1 Vanilla Bean Split
5 Allspice
1/2 Tablespoon Whole Black Peppercorns
4 cloves
toast spices in a pan...add vin, water, sugar and v bean to toasted spices let simmer until sugar dissolves and everything has enough time to "mingle" then strain liquid over huckleberries and let cool to room temp then refrigerate for up to two weeks
Thanks for the report, Eliot. I have family in Montana who are always wondering what to do with their extra huckleberries. (I've got a Mason jar in the freezer that I'm thinking I'll put to this use.)
Quote
I hope to visit in the spring, in fact.
Director of Operations, eG Forums.
camirault@eGstaff.org
eG Ethics Signatory
...on his sweater already, mom's spaghetti...
#50
Posted 04 December 2008 - 04:12 PM
The second Fried Chicken night even surpassed the first. Friends with me that Sunday said it was the best Fried Chicken they have eaten. I don't disagree and NOCA says they can do even better next time.
Pictures of last Sunday's Home Style Italian Night. NOCA provided the comfort food I needed when the Suns lost after leading virtually the entire game.
Blue cheese foam apple butter Amuse

Antipasto - Assorted organic vegetables, Iitoi onion fritatta, Bresaola, and cheese.

Spaghetti and Meatballs (Chitarra con Polpetini) Garlic Brioche Toast (not pictured)

NOCA's take on Spumoni (Pistachio creme, walnut sable, black cherry gelato, roasted walnut foam)

And by the way. 4.5 Stars from the Arizona Republic
http://www.azcentral...081117noca.html
This post has been edited by ahurwich: 04 December 2008 - 06:37 PM
#51
Posted 10 December 2008 - 08:15 PM
"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.
Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder
"Docsconz - The Blog"
Twitter - @docsconz
eGullet Ethics Signatory
#52
Posted 13 December 2008 - 06:44 PM
Since I have known him, Eliot has been a stickler for top quality ingredients, sourcing top grade restaurant quality products for his personal use even before he started the arduous project of opening his restaurant. Long an enthusiastic amateur cook, Wexler spent considerable time working in the kitchens of Kevin Binkley (Binkley's) and Nobuo Fukuda (See Saw) in order to learn as much as he could about product and cooking. Eliot also spent time traveling and dining through some of Europe's finest restaurants including elBulli, Pierre Gagnaire and Mugaritz amongst others, to get a better sense of what European fine dining is all about. He clearly was a fast study as he also learned how to run a restaurant, how to assess talent and how to put a team together.
Located in a fairly non-descript strip mall north of Camelback (thus NOCA) in Scottsdale, Noca is a sharp looking contemporary space with a well-lit narrow strip of an open kitchen visible to the somewhat dark, but comfortable, adjacent dining room. The cooking is part of the decor and entirely on display. Watching Chef Cristopher Curtiss and his team dance balletically around the small kitchen is almost as much a pleasure as eating the food coming out of that kitchen.
The food can be described as contemporary American, taking top notch ingredients from area farms as well as some of the finest seafood and meat purveyors in the country. The menu was loaded with all sorts of goodies the night I was there including peak season Nantucket Bay scallops served with white truffles, Peeky Toe crab, sea bass, chestnut soup with foie gras ravioli, heirloom beets, lobster risotto, beautiful and delicious house made fresh pastas, duck, Kona Kampachi, Kurobota pork and much more.
The bar, not to be left behind, has followed the lead of the new American Mixology revolution and is using fresh juices and quality liquors to craft cocktails they can be proud of. I enjoyed a "French 75" based on Bombay gin, champagne, fresh lemon juice and simple syrup. This refreshing cocktail packed a nice wallop in addition to its great flavor. The wine list, both by the glass and by the bottle, is filled with reasonable value and variety, especially given the newness and small size of the restaurant. I enjoyed a crisp Spanish Godello with my meal, even as I had my eye on the chateuneuf-du-pape from Vieux Telegraphe.
As I watched the kitchen and photographed the plates that were prepared for the restaurant's diners, I was tempted to order everything. Unfortunately, my stomach is not so well equipped and I had to limit my choices. The decisions were difficult, but the results rewarding. Particular highlights of my meal included the rich chestnut soup, the intoxicating spinach mezzalune, the succulent skate and the full-bodied pork. I was pleasantly surprised how addictive the blueberry cotton candy would be. The desserts were also excellent, particularly the "malted" milk.
I expected Noca to be a top notch restaurant. I am not surprised that it is.
Please see My Blog for photos.
"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.
Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder
"Docsconz - The Blog"
Twitter - @docsconz
eGullet Ethics Signatory
#53
Posted 13 December 2008 - 10:54 PM
=R=
LTHForum.com's Weekly Chicago Food-Media Digest
ronnie_suburban 'at' yahoo.com
#54
Posted 14 December 2008 - 08:41 AM
"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.
Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder
"Docsconz - The Blog"
Twitter - @docsconz
eGullet Ethics Signatory
#55
Posted 15 December 2008 - 07:46 PM
1. When did you first realize that you wanted to open a restaurant and what was it that made you want to?
I have always been very passionate or obsessed (or just hungry) about food. Growing up in Chicago allowed me to have exposure to a bunch of different types of restaurants from little hole in the wall ethnic spots to fine dining restaurants. I also went to grade school and high school with a bunch of the Levy kids and their family owned a lot of great restaurants around town so going to the restaurant openings and tastings was always fun. Around ten years ago, one of my childhood friends told me that he thought I should open a restaurant and I told him that he was crazy but he thought I liked food and wine so much that I should do it. The spark of wanting to open a restaurant began at Binkley's Restaurant in Cave Creek, Arizona in 2005. I had read that Chef Kevin Binkley had worked at the Inn at Little Washington and the French Laundry so I knew that he had to have some serious chops so I ventured to Cave Creek to check it out. After the second course of a perfectly seared piece of foie gras, I asked if I could talk to the chef about giving me a cooking lesson so I could see how he seared the foie gras like that. So after the meal, Kevin came out and I asked him if I could pay him for a lesson and he said that I did not have to pay him and he told me to show up Friday at noon. I showed up at noon and he handed me a blue apron and 5 lbs. of shrimp and told me to de-vein them...I ended up staying for all of prep and thru service and I guess it hooked me so I started coming to help in the kitchen everyday.
2.What was your original concept and how did it change over time, if it changed at all?
In the beginning of the journey, I wanted to open a fine dining restaurant with Kevin in Phoenix or Scottsdale but we could not find the right opportunity in town. A meal that I shared with you at Chez Panisse after a succession of great meals in San Francisco and Napa also sat in the back of mind. The simplicity of the preparations and clarity of the flavors at Chez Panisse was in such a stark contrast to the other meals that we enjoyed during that trip and that meal was outstanding. I started to feel that something along those lines may have a greater and longer lasting impression with the diners in Phoenix than a fine dining tasting menu style restaurant.
3. How long has it been in the making?
....probably since my first bite of food but I did not know it then
4. How did you go about finding investors (for the record, I am not one)? Have they changed over time? Have they evolved as the restaurant's concept evolved?
My friends knew how passionate I was about this project so when I pitched it to them and conducted some tastings everything fell in order.
5. Can you describe some of the difficulties you had in opening the restaurant?
There are so many moving parts in opening a restaurant from designers, contractors, permitting,...the important thing to do is stay flexible because getting everyone on the same page at the same time is a bit of an elusive contract. The reality is I had a great and honest contractor, Greg Rowles, and without him I would have been sunk. We had so many "a la minute" changes that he built it the restaurant without plans.
6.What is your vision of what Noca will ultimately be like and how do you expect to get there?
My Chef Chris Curtiss and I share the same vision of hospitality and cuisine which is the most important component of trying to achieve success. We want to use great ingredients and present them when we can in a whimsical manner that will hopefully be fun and most importantly tasty to our diners and keep them coming back.
7. How did you find your chef, Chris Curtiss?
I first met Chris while in Binkley's kitchen, he came in and "staged" for a day when he first moved to Arizona. Fast forward two years while I was putting my kitchen team together, I received a phone call from Kevin telling me to go try the food of this chef in a small restaurant in downtown Phoenix. The next day Geoff Reed, the Sous-Chef of Sea Saw, handed me the resume of a chef and it was the same chef that Kevin told me about. I looked at the resume and saw Fifth Floor, Charles Nob Hill and Masa's and I wondered what he was doing at a small restaurant in downtown Phoenix. At that point, I did not realize that he was the same chef that I had met in Binkley's kitchen a few years before. I called Chris up at 2:00 in the afternoon and told him that I was putting a restaurant together and wanted him to prepare me a tasting menu that night at 6:00, it was one of my best meals of 2007.
Chris is so impeccably trained coming from San Fransisco... he was Sous-Chef at the Fifth Floor while he was working there. He badly wanted to work with Chef Ron Siegel so he would "stage" at Charles Nob Hill with him. Ron called him when the Sous-Chef position opened and Chris started working with him there and when Ron moved to Masa's, Chris moved with him there as his Sous-Chef.
8. For whom is Noca designed?
We offer a few different looks so our hope is to get our diner to come in for different experiences...our standard a la carte menu can accommodate a full on no holds barred roll me out after a bunch of courses meal to a quick bowl of hand-made pasta and a glass of wine or a plate of crudo and some sake that can be had at the chef's counter with no fuss and you can watch all the cooking right in front of you...On Wednesday night's we offer a special in addition to the menu..noca Lobster Roll- Maine Lobster, Celery Root, Fines Herbs tossed with Roasted Garlic Aioli in a Herb Butter toasted Brioche Bun and served with Duck Fat Fried French Fries. On Thursday's our special is the noca Kobe Cheesesteak- American Kobe Ribeye, Caramelized Onion Jam, Roasted Pepperonata, Creamy White Cheddar Sauce, toasted Brioche Bun served with cooked to order Spicy Potato Chips. On Sundays, we offer the Simple Supper which is a 3 course set menu with choice of entree for $35 that the menu changes every week. With truffle season in full swing, we have been having fun with white and black truffles and I attached some dishes that we have been doing....I have been dying to shave some white truffles into our Roasted Chestnut Soup with Foie Gras Raviolini but I have not done it yet.(JMS: Perhaps you should have done it last week.)
9. Can you give a picture of your average day at Noca?
I come in at 10 or 11 pick up the bread on the way in (hopefully I remember to grab it then)...scramble around for things we need for that night's service and bring in lunch for the kitchen crew...pay bills (I hate signing my name now)...meet my favorite wine guys from Quench or Synergy for a tasting depending on what they are bringing around...get the menus ready for service and change the wine menu so I can make Frank crazy with adding a new wine...staff meal 4:45...staff meeting at 5:00 and game-time at 5:30...and service ends when we are done serving and then Chris rips apart the kitchen every night and cleans it....then orders for the next day...end of the night meeting with the kitchen crew...shot of mezcal with Chris from Richard Betts's new stuff made from wild agave, it is awesome-smokey goodness as soon as McClendon's Blood Oranges come in we are going to do a Blood Orange Margarita with it and call it the Vision-have enough of them and you will start having them!
10. What would you change if anything?
Wake up earlier so I could spend more waking hours with my dogs and girlfriend
"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.
Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder
"Docsconz - The Blog"
Twitter - @docsconz
eGullet Ethics Signatory
#56
Posted 19 January 2009 - 10:52 PM
Very excited to have this experience. I find that Mr Wexler's reviews and suggestions for dining in the Phoenix area are spot on, and I am impressed with all of the great reviews and pictures of/from NOCA.
#58
Posted 16 February 2009 - 01:23 PM
Greystreet, on Feb 16 2009, 11:25 AM, said:
Congrats, indeed, to Eliot, Chris and the NOCA team. The award up for grabs is actually Best New Restauant U.S., not Southwest, which makes it an even greater accomplishment.
For a complete list of semi-finalists, click here.
Way to go, Eliot!
=R=
LTHForum.com's Weekly Chicago Food-Media Digest
ronnie_suburban 'at' yahoo.com
#59
Posted 17 February 2009 - 10:45 PM
ronnie_suburban, on Feb 16 2009, 01:23 PM, said:
Greystreet, on Feb 16 2009, 11:25 AM, said:
Congrats, indeed, to Eliot, Chris and the NOCA team. The award up for grabs is actually Best New Restauant U.S., not Southwest, which makes it an even greater accomplishment.
For a complete list of semi-finalists, click here.
Way to go, Eliot!
=R=
Sorry for the wrong info, I was confused.
#60
Posted 18 February 2009 - 07:03 AM
So I walked in by myself, without a reservation, and without a clue that the owner is a former eG mod like myself. Anyhow, the gentleman greeting me at the door immediately made me feel comfortable, asked me if I wanted to sit at the chef's bar/table (hell, yes), and asked me my name. We chit-chatted for just a few seconds before the waitstaff took over. Needless to say, this kind man was Eliot.
The meal that I had was as good and as fun as I've had in some time. Chef Chris Curtiss looks like a guy who should be belting out rock ballads, with his solid good looks and his tattoo-laden arms, and not be putting out food of this quality. Within a few minutes, we struck up a great conversation, with him sending out different vinegars and syrups to try. He asked me if I were a chef; flattered, I told him that I just liked food.
I chatted with the other cooks on the line, and frankly, I don't think I could have possibly enjoyed this meal more if I were with a group. I had a blast getting to learn about their backgrounds, how they came to NOCA, and what they like about the place.
I won't talk about the food, because I really don't have anything else to add to what has already been written, but the thing that struck with me is that every single thing put in front of me made me break out in a smile. Sometimes it was the sheer folly of the dish's concept, like the bacon and eggs. Or the blue raspberry cotton candy. Other times it was because the dish had an element that was pretty cool and different. Adding potato chips to a dish that includes potatoes is not unusual, but using fingerling potato chips was a nice twist. Or house-made smoked-paprika oil on a peekytoe crab salad intermezzo.
This kitchen knows its stuff, and they have fun, too. And that's just the kind of restaurant I want to dine in.
Congrats, NOCA, and good luck.
VarmintBites






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