Los Cabos

[docsconz]

If someone has followed my postings on the eGullet Society Forums, that person is likely to know that I do not typically take vacations to resorts. I generally, no, strongly prefer, vacations oriented around food and culture. So what was I doing in Los Cabos at the beginning of this month?

I come from a very close-knit family that is blessed to enjoy each other's company and actually want to spend time together. That is exactly what we did, as my siblings and my families convened at The Westin Club Regina between Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo - all 32 of us. That we were able to all do so was thanks to the generosity of some of my relatives with time shares at the Club Regina, who donated their accumulated points so that we could all stay together in comfort. Though the Westin was lovely and my family and I had a great time together as we shared good times and a few nearly tragic ones, I won't belabor that aspect of the trip. Instead I will get to the food!

Ironically, the first food experience discussed in this topic will not be in Los Cabos or even Mexico and requires a bit of stage-setting. Since the majority of my family still lives in the greater NYC area (within a 4 hour radius), about twenty of us flew together on Delta Airlines from JFK on what was supposed to have been a non-stop flight to San Jose del Cabo. About one-third of the way through the flight, as we were munching on our various snacks, my brother, sitting directly behind me, tapped me on the shoulder to bring my attention to his previously well wife, who was in her seat writhing in pain. I took one look at her and realized that there was a serious problem. Her very thin abdomen was distended and tense. When I went to examine it, she guarded against it and recoiled to my very light touch, especially on her lower left. These are all classic signs of a surgical emergency. Seeing my sister-in-law's distress and our long-anticipated family reunion flying away, I showed my credentials to the flight attendant and spoke to the captain of the plane. We would have to divert to get her to a hospital ASAP. The captain informed me that Memphis was ten minutes ahead and arrangements were being made to have an ambulance waiting there. After a smooth touchdown, the paramedics came on board for my sister-in-law. Leaving everyone else on board to continue onward including my immediate family, my brother and I deboarded the plane to accompany my SIL to the hospital. To make a long story short, we spent the better part of the morning and afternoon at Methodist Hospital South Emergency Room, where my SIL gradually started feeling better. A CT scan showed a total lower intestinal blockage (aka constipation)! What had happened was that as the plane ascended the cabin pressure dropped leaving her intestinal gas no place to go as it expanded due to the decreased atmospheric pressure. It was sufficient to expand her intestines and abdomen to an impressive degree and to cause great pain along with it. It is possible, that had the condition persisted for much longer, her colon may have actually perforated which could have required surgery and resulted long term complications. Ok, unusual story, but what does this have to do with food?!

We landed in Memphis! With my SIL out of danger, but otherwise occupied, my brother and I decided to make lemonade out of lemons. Doing some last minute research and surveying the possibilities, we decided our best bet would be to head into town from the airport Ramada and get som BBQ and Blues. Neither of us had ever been to Memphis before, so it was a total discovery for both of us. We wound up at Rendesvous where we enjoyed some ice cold Michelob while we waited for our table and watched the Alabama-LSU game in the jam-packed restaurant (it was a Saturday night). As we were brought to the table we had a peek at the BBQ pit, which was something out of another century s the crew were all working in a hot, smoke-filled space. I wished that I had my camera, but unfortunately, that was on the way to Cabo with my family. In any case, I finally got a chance to taste real Memphis BBQ, when I had their justifiably famous dry-rubbed rack of ribs. Yum. That restaurant is not designed for lingering - they don't even serve dessert, so it wasn't long before we were out of there and off to Beale Street, where we bought t-shirts (I had no fresh clothes with me) and listened to some great blues culminating in some drinks and music at B.B. King's. We had indeed made lemonade out of lemons.

Delta Airlines, were simply wonderful throughout this as they also went out of their way to get us connections the next day that actually got us to Cabo by 2PM! We had to fly to Denver, then Salt Lake City on two other airlines before we got back on Delta in SLC to fly to Cabo.

Though I have plenty of other stories from throughout the week, I will spare the ones that don't have a direct connection to food. Next, life in a fantasy world.

[jesteinf]

Doc,

I look forward to hearing about the rest of your trip. We go down to Cabo every December and stay at the Westin, so I'll be curious to hear about the other places you hit up on your trip.

Crazy story about your SIL. Glad to hear everything turned out ok!

[kalypso]

Wow, doc, what a frightening experience that must have been for your sister-in-law . I'm glad to hear that she was okay and it wasn't anything worse than it turned out to be. Looking forward to the rest of the trip report and your usual enticing food photos.

[docsconz]

The three of us managed to arrive in Los Cabos on Sunday afternoon and joined the rest of our party at the hotel where they had all settled in to the resort experience. Needless to say, by that time I was quite happy to slip into the pool and sip on a cocktail for a bit.

That evening I had reservations for 5 people at Esperanza, to which I had planned to bring my wife and three sons. At that point none of the boys really wanted to get dressed up to leave the resort so they stayed. In their place we were accompanied by my sister and a nephew with his wife.

We drove the short distance to the lovely hotel and were led to a nice table outside overlooking other tables and the sea, which was crashing ashore. Given that it was rather dark, we were given mini-flashlights to read the menus. As there were budgetary issues, we opted as a table to order a la carte. The cuisine is described by the restaurant as " cocina del sol - "sun-filled" Mediterranean-influenced cooking that incorporates local resources and regional flavors."

Unfortunately, I have since mis-placed my notes on the meal and the on-line menu is different than what we had. I apologize for this slight, but will do my best to recollect the details.

Langoustine with squid ink risotto. I don't recall the details of the other ingredients, but recall the dish as being good, albeit not particularly memorable despite the presence of one of my favorite proteins - langoustine. As the ambiance was rather dark and I prefer to not use flash when photographing food at a restaurant, I improvised and shined the menu flashlight onto the plate for the photo.

"Mexiterranean" Bouillabaisse. This dish which incorporated a local fish, scallops and squid was tasty , although I recall the scallop and squid as being tough and overcooked. The second photo shows the addition of the seafood broth.

My wife and sister, who was unprepared for the surprising chilliness. My sister wound up using a napkin as a shawl!

Warm Chocolate Cake, Coconut Ice Cream and Roasted Pineapple. This was a solid though routine rendition of what has become a classic and safe dessert.

Overall, the evening was pleasant, the food was tasty though it could have been better especially for the inflated resort prices charged. The Dining Room at Esperanza provides a fine, romantic experiencce when in Cabo, but it is certainly not a reason to go to Cabo for.

As a side note, i think it is reasonable to engage in a discussion here along the lines of discussions currently ongoing in the Fiamma and Tradition vs. Contemporary Italian Cuisine topics. While the focus in those topics is on what makes a particular cuisine "Italian," the same discussion can be had for "Mexican." This restaurant and others in Cabo provide a good basis for this discussion. f people are interested in pursuing this, perhaps a new topic can be started. Briefly, I would argue that even though this resort restaurant is in Mexico and the cooking is conceived and executed by Mexicans it is not really a "Mexican" restaurant. It doesn't call itself Mexican. Instead it aspires to a Mediterranean cuisine with Mexican influences. Of course, it can be argued that all Mediterranean cooking or at least much of it already has a strong Mexican or at least native American influence as cooking throughout that region was strongly affected by the Columbian Exchange. Nevertheless, the important distinction here is that the principle tradition this restaurant is consciously emulating are those of the Mediterranean that arose out of the cultures there.

[docsconz]

The Westin Los Cabos and Club Regina, the time-share arm associated with it are lovely and a great place to stay. The grounds are beautiful and it is well situated. The food, however, was mediocre at best, with a couple of exceptions. The breakfast buffet was pretty good with stations for omelets and eggs and breakfast burritos as well as all the usual breakfast items. Of note were some of the Mexican breakfast offerings including chilaquiles and other items. The time-share villas did have kitchens, however, they were not useful other than for rudimentary cooking. We did make ourselves a number of breakfasts there. The other exception was something that occurred later in the week that I will get to soon. The evening buffets were ok, though nothing extraordinary. They were convenient, however, especially when co-ordinating a large group.

[rancho_gordo]

I had a difficult time of things the time I went to Baja. We flew into Cabo and drove directly to Cabo Pulmo, which is a gorgeous reef and a village with solar energy. Even getting bad tortillas was a chore. The produce was dismal and the taco shack on the beach was uninspired. And I was there for almost 2 weeks! This wasn't the Mexico I know and love.

We made many excursion in the area and while the nature was stunning, the food kept getting worse, even in rural towns. I couldn't wait to get to La Paz but for Mexican food, it was no great shakes. The public market was very sad.

My impression was that most of Baja seems built around serving gringo tourists. A groovier, greener tourist, but a tourist nonetheless. This is an impression and not based on facts, so I am more than happy to be corrected. Maybe things are more Mexican further north.

[docsconz]

I had a difficult time of things the time I went to Baja. We flew into Cabo and drove directly to Cabo Pulmo, which is a gorgeous reef and a village with solar energy. Even getting bad tortillas was a chore. The produce was dismal and the taco shack on the beach was uninspired. And I was there for almost 2 weeks! This wasn't the Mexico I know and love.

We made many excursion in the area and while the nature was stunning, the food kept getting worse, even in rural towns. I couldn't wait to get to La Paz but for Mexican food, it was no great shakes. The public market was very sad.

My impression was that most of Baja seems built around serving gringo tourists. A groovier, greener tourist, but a tourist nonetheless. This is an impression and not based on facts, so I am more than happy to be corrected. Maybe things are more Mexican further north.

←

I suspect that your impression is quite correct. That is not to say that there is not decent Mexican food to be had -there is and we found some. Before going on this trip I contacted Rick Bayless to see if he could give me any recommendations for Mexican food there. He could not. Ultimately, Cabo is not a destination that one goes to for the food. It is, however, a fun place and one can get very good food if one looks hard enough or is willing to pay the (often very steep) price.

[docsconz]

Speaking of co-ordinating large groups, the Monday we were there was my nephew's 25th birthday. My brother invited the entire family to come celebrate at a dinner at El Toreador in San Jose del Cabo. The restaurant is so named because the owner is indeed a bullfighter. The night we were there he had just returned from a bullfight somewhere.

Though the space was tight for such a large group and the service understandably slow, the food was pretty good and clearly Mexican without being clichéd.

The children in the group were fed early in another room. Their dishes were closer to what many of them were used to. This little guy looks to be a future eGullet society member!

Very good guacamole with totopos.

Yellowfin tuna carpaccio. Yellowfin is a relatively abundant local resource. This would not be the last we would enjoy.

Tortilla soup - a fine rendition of a classic.

Snapper Veracruz with tomatoes, olives, capers, jalapeños and herbs. This was a nice piece of fish very well prepared and tasty. Though this is considered a classic Mexican dish now, the Mediterranean influence is unmistakable.

Frozen Mexican Lime cake - delicious and refreshing, although a touch too sweet for my taste.

We drank Chilean and Argentine wines, all of which were decent and worked well with the food. Overall, this was a very pleasing meal, especially given the constraints.

[docsconz]

Tuesday morning a group of us including my two eldest sons and myself chartered a boat for deep-sea fishing. Cabo is regarded as one of the best places in the world for the sport. In fact, there was a marlin and tuna tournament underway while we were there.

Only a couple of people in the group got sick and fortunately for me I was not amongst them. In any case, it took a little while before we found some fish running, but then we started reeling them in. Although we saw a marlin swim by, we didn't catch it. What we did catch were some pretty good fish for eating.

My second oldest son caught the first fish, a beautiful and I do mean beautiful dorada or mahi-mahi. The colors faded fast after the fish was caught, though they were spectacular as it landed. This was his first time deep-sea fishing. He also caught a nice yellow-fin tuna.

Another first-timer, my eldest son caught this yellow-fin as his first fish. In addition he caught another yellow-fin and the largest fish of the day, a dorada. I didn't catch anything as I gave up my rounds so that my sons could fish and I could photograph.

Between the seven of us in our party we caught 8 fish - 6 yellowtail and 2 dorada. That was good because we had many mouths to feed back at the hotel.

Our boatman filleted the fish for us right on board. He was a master craftsman making short work of the job.

He started by skinning one half of the first dorada.

He then portioned and packaged the fillets, before turning the fish over and repeating the process on the other side. Once he was done with the fish, he tossed the remains overboard.

The process was repeated with the yellowfins.

As with all the returning fishing boats the pelicans followed the boat in looking for some snacks. They were obliged with the remaining bait.

Back on shore we filled a large styrofoam cooler with our fish and ice before returning to the hotel.

[rancho_gordo]

Seeing your photos reminded me how much fun that was and why we ended up eating well - by eating in. I made a lot of soup. Most of the fisherman would just want the filets so I'd go down to the launch every day and pick up some fabulous bones and make a soup with these, tomatoes and dried chiles. And ceviche. And simple grilled fish. We also found wild tomatillos everywhere. Very small but sweet enough to eat raw.

The fishing is pretty thrilling!

[docsconz]

Seeing your photos reminded me how much fun that was and why we ended up eating well - by eating in. I made a lot of soup. Most of the fisherman would just want the filets so I'd go down to the launch every day and pick up some fabulous bones and make a soup with these, tomatoes and dried chiles. And ceviche. And simple grilled fish. We also found wild tomatillos everywhere. Very small but sweet enough to eat raw.

The fishing is pretty thrilling!

←

It was indeed! I actually forgot to add one of the best parts - maybe because I didn't take any photos of them. before going out on the boat for the day we bought a boatload of a variety of burritos from a lady making them near the docks. I went off to finalize the financial transaction for the boat so I didn't get to see them being made, but they were truly delicious and really hit the spot for those of us who were able to eat them! They were actually some of the best things I ate all week.

As for the remains of the fish after they were filleted, I would have been interested in doing the very things you did if I had a decent kitchen and equipment.

[Domestic Goddess]

Great pics of your catch, Doc! I echo what Rancho Gordo was thinking, those fish scraps/bones that were thrown overboard would have been good in fish soup.

[docsconz]

Great pics of your catch, Doc! I echo what Rancho Gordo was thinking, those fish scraps/bones that were thrown overboard would have been good in fish soup.

←

I'm certain that there is a lot some enterprising souls could have done with the remains, but the reality is that it was impractical for us to take them or the crew as they required storage that we simply did not have. Even if we did, we were not really in a situation to take advantage of it.

[docsconz]

We brought the fish back to the hotel and found one of the restaurants there that for a reasonable price would cook it for us and provide us with side dishes. In this case they were serving a seafood buffet, from which we could partake of the salads and the desserts.

They made tuna sashimi for us.

The fish was grilled simply. Funny thing is that the plate it was served on, is the same Dansk pattern that we have at home!

Not everyone in our party ate fish. They, of course, were free to choose whatever else they wanted! We had a fair amount leftover that I brought back to the condo in ice and a cooler. It held well until the next day at lunch, when I brought it to another restaurant that was poolside nearer to our condos. They made a simple, but even more delicious meal for us.

Fresh tuna tacos. Fresh guacamole and refried beans in fried tortilla cups were served on the plates with the tacos.

The fish was once again grilled simply. This time it was served with a garlic butter.

These nicely cooked vegetables and delicious rice were served as well. This meal really hit the spot.

[docsconz]

With the exception of one more meal, the remainder of our dining was not particularly extraordinary. One evening in San Jose we found a decent taqueria - Taqueria Mexico - that shone in a relative way. One particularly good and decadent item they had was a potato stuffed with mushrooms and cheese.

[docsconz]

We did have one restaurant meal that did stand out though and was by far the class of the meals that we had in Cabo. About a week or so prior to our trip I received a publicist's email on the restaurants of The One and Only at Las Palmillas. I had been considering making a reservation at Charlie Trotter's "C" or "Agua", but hadn't got around to it. In any case, there was a part of the release that really intrigued me. At the restaurant Agua they have an area apart from the main restaurant set up for intimate, private dining. They call these areas "moonpods." I replied to the email and received a response a short while later. Within a few days, my reservation for my wife and I was confirmed for one of the moonpods.

The drive from the gate down to the hotel was like driving in a different part of the world. Whereas, most of Los Cabos is very desert-like, the area around Las Palmillas, as the name implies, was lush and full of palm trees. It gave the distinct impression of being in a desert oasis. Our car was received by the valet and we were greeted and escorted through the enchanted property to the restaurant Agua. Once there, we were taken to our table, a small table with a half-moon shaped booth facing directly onto the sea. Earlier in the day, we had discussed the possibility of another couple in our party joining us for dinner. Given the size and orientation of the table, that would have been impossible. The moonpods are for couples only. I must say that I have never dined in a more romantic environment!

The chef offered to cook for us, an invitation I never refuse.

The bread basket with a view overlooking the sea and San Jose del Cabo. The sound of the waves against the shore was a relaxing tonic. I couldn't help but think that Heston Blumenthal would not need an ipod with his "Sound of the Sea" dish, if he served it here.

My wife and I were each served a different tasting menu with wine pairings. We were both started with an apéritif of Moët et Chandon, Brut Impérial Rosé, Epernay, France, n/v. Like at Esperanza, the minimalist lighting made it too dark to photograph without assistance. Once again, I had the menu flashlight to provide a spotlight for me with the obtrusive use of a flash. Of course, to some it would seem (and may be) ridiculous to worry about taking food photos in such a romantic setting. Well, I am incorrigible and I try not to linger too long with that aspect of a meal Suffice to say, it did not impede our ability to enjoy the meal, the surroundings and most of all our own company. In addition, all the other pods were far enough away and private that I doubt even a flash would have been an issue. Even so, I did not want to risk going too far.

First Course

Rock Lobster Salad, Thin Sliced Cucumber, Avocado Pearls, Turmeric Essence served with Sileni, Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand, 2006.

Blue Fin Tuna Tartare, Diced Avocado, Lemon Vinaigrette served with Matetic Vineyards, "EQ", Sauvignon Blanc, Valle de San Antonio, Chile, 2005.

While there is absolutely nothing wrong with yellowtail tuna, there is a reason bluefin is the one in the greatest demand. The tartare ws a supremely competent and tasty version of what has become a fairly standard dish. Though not groundbreaking, I did not mind eating it in the least. The lobster was a nice dish as well. It was cooked perfectly such that it was firm, but tender and succulent. The wines paired well, enhancing each dish.

Second Course

Baja Jumbo Shrimp Kataifi, Chayote Remoulade, Ginger Dressing with Casa Grande, Chardonnay, Valle de Parras, Mexico, 2006.

Homemade Fresh Raviolis, Blue Crab Meat, Cherry Tomatoes, Shrimp Sauce

Frank Family, Chardonnay, Napa Valley, U.S.A., 2005.

Both of these dishes were delicious. The shrimp reminded me of a similar dish at Bouley in NYC. I loved that dish then. This was delicious now. The ravioli were excellent, but it was the sauce that particularly shone in that dish. The wines once again supported these dishes yeomanly.

Third Course

Sautéed Pacific Sea Bass, Charmoula, Green Olives, Lemon Preserve with MariaTinto, Blend, Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico, 2003.

Parrot Fish “Sarandeado”, Saffron Cous Cous, Avocado Salad, Sautéed Heirloom Tomato with Acacia, Pinot Noir, Carneros, U.S.A., 2005

These dishes using locally caught fish were superb. The sea bass incorporated Moroccan spicing, while the parrot fish was served with , given the area, the more interesting, more Mexican treatment. The parrot fish itself was interesting, with neither my wife nor I ever having had it before. Acacia is a pinot noir I am very familiar with, heavily fruit driven. It works well with seafood and this was no exception. I particularly enjoyed the Maria Tinto, however. Recalling a tasting of mexican wines we did with Rick Bayless in Mexico City in 2006, I am more and more impressed by Mexican wines, especially those from the Valle de Guadaloupe. I suspect that the U.S. will be hearing much more from these wines before too long. They certainly provide a lot of value for the money.

Fourth Course

Tajine of Lamb Stew, Dried Apricot, Toasted Almonds, Moroccan Spices with Ferrari Carano, Merlot, Sonoma, U.S.A., 2004

Grilled Beef Tenderloin “a la Tampiqueña”, Mushroom Enchilada, Roasted Poblano Pepper,Grilled Nopal with CARO, Blend, Mendoza, Argentina, 2003.

These were both very fine dishes. I particularly liked the tenderloin, though both my wife and I were getting quite full by this time as each of these plates were full sized and not really toned down for a tasting menu. The funny thing about the wine served with the beef is that the name literally translates to "dear" or "expensive!"

Fifth Course - Dessert

Dessert Quintet with Errazuriz, Sauvignon Blanc, Late Harvest, Casablanca, Chile, 2005

Quartet of Chocolate with Real Companhia Velha, Royal Port, Tawny 10 years, Portugal, n/v

The quintet consisted of various preparations of tropical fruits from mexico, all competently done as were the chocolates. By this time, we were the only ones still around. I tried several times to get a photo of the Tru-like chocolate steps, but couldn't get one clear enough to use, so I used a flash for this one photo .

When I asked for the bill, we were told that the meal was compliments of the house. I did not expect this, though i was not surprised to get the outstanding service we did. I thanked the manager and left a gratuity in line with what I expected the value of the meal to be.

My wife and I took a leisurely stroll back through the grounds and stopped for a tour of Charlie Trotter's restaurant "C". The space and the kitchen are indeed beautiful. The couple from our group who had dinner there that night very much enjoyed their meal as well.

This meal, comp or not, was clearly the best meal of this trip. The food was excellent. I generally preferred the dishes that spoke of Mexico, not necessarily because they were better dishes, but because I like to feel a sense of place when I travel and these dishes accomplished that. While the food and wine were excellent, they were not groundbreaking or worth a trip to Cabo solely for the purpose of eating it. I would say, however, that if one was looking for an excellent resort destination, Cabo is that. If one was looking for the finest haute cuisine and the most romantic meal in Cabo, one would not be likely to do better than a moonpod at Agua in the One and Only las Palmillas.

[Darren72]

My wife and I recently returned from a wonderful vacation and the One and Only Palmilla. Here's a few quick notes:

1. Charlie Trotter's restaurant "C" has closed. Jean-George V. will open a restaurant on the property in November.

2. The food at the resort (at Agua, the Spa, the in-room private dining menu, etc.) are wonderful. The private dining menu is largely a separate menu from that at the Spa and Agua, although any food can be delivered to your room. They will also set up an intimate, romantic setting to eat on your private deck.

4. The tasting menu at Agua referred to by docsconz is $120 per person plus $65 for wine, if I recall, plus 28% tax and service. We did not try it.