NYC Foodies, Get Thee to New Jersey why you should go & what you're missing
#1
Posted 07 November 2007 - 08:14 AM
I've gone 500 miles today
I've come a long way
And never even left L.A.
-Michelle Shocked
Foodies in Los Angeles think nothing of driving all over their massive metropolitan area for a good meal. Yet foodies in New York City rarely venture to nearby restaurants in Northern New Jersey -- many of which are significantly closer to Manhattan than Totonno's or Nathan's.
Whenever I challenge New York foodies on this issue, they start making excuses: New Yorkers don't have cars, there's no good public transportation in New Jersey, and anyway there aren't any good restaurants there. Let's examine those claims, which are accurate non-straw-man restatements of what I've heard dozens of times from real people.
New Yorkers do have cars. Two million of them. There are a few different ways to crunch the numbers, but as a rough guideline about 60% of New York City residents live in a household with a car. Which means if you have no car but one friend then you probably have access to a car. That's not to mention all the undocumented cars that people register elsewhere to save on insurance (for many years after college I had a Vermont car). And the Zipcars, etc. No, it's not that New Yorkers don't have access to cars. It's that they don't use cars to seek out excellent food. In other words, they're lazy.
There is public transportation to and in New Jersey. It's possible to get to many, many food destinations in New Jersey in a single hop from either Port Authority or Penn Station. Two-hop trips are also available for a lot of the destinations that aren't right on top of a rail or express-bus hub. Others might require a taxi on the last leg. It's really no big deal. In many cases the departures are so frequent that you don't even need to worry about schedules. In some cases you do. Either way, in order to make it work out you just have to be a little bit motivated -- say, one third as motivated as you need to be to drive anywhere in LA at any time other than 3:30am.
And anybody who is not dining out in New Jersey is, plain and simple, missing out on many of the better restaurants in the New York metro area. In case you've been living under a rock -- as most lazy New York foodies have been for the past couple of decades -- New Jersey is now the place to be for many kinds of Asian food (including Indian), and that's just the beginning. There's excellent pizza, burgers, hot dogs, deli (both Jewish and Italian) -- indeed all the categories of food that New York calls its own -- plus a few worthy "fine dining" options. And then there's food shopping, at a much grander scale than what New York City can offer.
I submit that anybody who hasn't done at least a highlights tour of New Jersey Indian, Chinese and hot dogs, plus Japanese and Korean food-shopping, lacks a fundamental element of cultural literacy about food in the New York metro area.
I thought perhaps I'd call upon some of our frequent contributors from the New Jersey forum to help us out with a little project: a cultural literacy tour of Northern New Jersey food destinations tailored to the lazy New York foodie. Please don't post a long list of restaurants without comment. What we're going to need here is precise leadership: full information about the restaurant or other destination (not just its name), an impassioned explanation of why it's worth going there even if you live in New York City, instructions how to get there by public transportation from New York if that's possible, and of course a link to the relevant New Jersey forum topic if there is one. The best of the best: just the one or two places in each category that absolutely must be visited.
Let me start with the easiest recommendation: Mitsuwa Marketplace, in Edgewater, NJ. Mitsuwa is the premier Japanese food market in the New York metro area. If you've only been to the Japanese markets in Manhattan, you won't believe your eyes when you see Mitsuwa. It's huge. It has everything. The quality is excellent. You'll see some references to a dip in quality a few years ago when Hanahreum (H-Mart) started pulling away a bunch of Mitsuwa's business, but Mitsuwa today is vital and excellent. Mitsuwa also houses a food court offering some worthy, accurate Japanese cheap eats. So you can go there to shop, and you can grab a bite before heading back. If you look out over the Hudson River from anywhere on the Upper West Side, you can see Mitsuwa, or at least the pier right next to it. There is frequent shuttle bus service (22 buses a day on weekends, 11 on weekdays) from Port Authority run by Mitsuwa -- here's the information -- and it costs $2. New Jersey forum topic on Mitsuwa.
Mitsuwa Marketplace
595 River Road
Edgewater, NJ 07020
201.941.9113
Open 365 days a year, from 9:30am to 8pm (9pm on Saturdays). The food court and specialty plaza have slightly shorter hours. It's all online at:
http://www.mitsuwanj.com/en/
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#2
Posted 07 November 2007 - 08:21 AM
A. It's ludicrous to say that most Manhattanites have access to a car. yeah, people in Forest Hills all have cars. that's useless to me. I know exactly one Manhattan resident with a car...and he's not interested in driving to Jersey for food (or really anywhere). (in other words, NYC statistics are not germane. it's like when you read people in other parts of the country writing things like "NYC isn't that expensive. the average two bedroom apartment is only $1,300"!!!!!)
B. yes, people who grew up here with family in the city often have occasional access to a car. but that's a minority of NY'ers. it's a documented statistical fact that the majority of NYC residents (not just Manhattan) were not even born in NY state. most NY'ers are transplants. we don't have the large web of family and schoolfriends here that a minority of NY'ers do. people who grew up here are actually atypical NY'ers.
C. yes, I would like to see a list of Jersey restaurants accessible by mass transit that are significantly better than any NY equivalent. (I have no interest in traveling for hot dogs but for great Vietnamese food I certainly would, etc.) agreed that those should certainly be toured by any foodie.
This post has been edited by Nathan: 07 November 2007 - 08:23 AM
#4
Posted 07 November 2007 - 08:26 AM
Fat Guy, on Nov 7 2007, 08:14 AM, said:
seriously, what does this have to do with Manhattan?
#5
Posted 07 November 2007 - 08:27 AM
DMV stats (http://www.nydmv.state.ny.us/Statistics/regin06.htm) show fewer than 250K vehicle registrations in force for Manhattan.
This post has been edited by Jammin: 07 November 2007 - 08:29 AM
#6
Posted 07 November 2007 - 08:29 AM
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#7
Posted 07 November 2007 - 08:34 AM
Fat Guy, on Nov 7 2007, 08:29 AM, said:
I'd really love to see some support for this. And even if it were somehow true...it definitely doesn't apply to downtown.
I know hundreds of people (even a few Brooklyn or Astoria residents)...and to the best of my knowledge...only one has a car. (granted that I only know a couple people over 36, but they don't seem to have cars either.)
and I'm pretty sure that my social circle is relatively representative of downtown...at least for this subject.
#8
Posted 07 November 2007 - 08:44 AM
We can't talk about essential mass-transit-compatible Jersey without starting off right: the Ironbound district. It's literally right behind Penn Station, maybe a 10-minute walk to most places. You take whatever train takes you to Penn, then go behind the station to Ferry Street. Just keep walking up Ferry, you really can't go wrong. Plus, Ironbound is probably the safest, least intimidating part of Newark, and that's saying a lot.
However, two standouts for me are Brazilia Grill, which is on Monroe Street just steps off of Ferry, and Sol-Mar, which is WAY down Ferry street and might necessitate a quick cab or bus ride. Eat in the bar area, skip the restaurant part. The menus are more Portuguese and the smoking ban makes the area awesome.
I can't speak with much authority on getting around Hoboken for foodstuffs, but I know that there's gotta be good things there.
If you can take the bus across to Fort Lee, you can get around there for terrific Korean food. Plus, buses run up and down Broad Ave. in Ridgefield Park, home of Han Ah Reum/H-Mart, THE best place for Korean ingredients, conventional groceries, and a really awesome selection of fish and seafood. Their food court is cheap and delicious, with some seriously tasty and unique Chinese and Korean food.
I haven't really considered much of Jersey from the Manhattanite's perspective, it's more like the reverse for me: what's accessible in the city by mass transit? :-P
I will keep thinking and posting, though. I must, must, MUST second Fat Guy's recommendation of Mitsuwa. It's like Sunrise Mart only bigger and with tons more food. Plus the food court is not to be missed; everyone I've known who ate at ramen places in the city compares them to Mitsuwa. I haven't, so I can't sound off with authority, but I will say that the salt ramen there is what I think of when I think of Japanese food other than sushi. Plus, the Tuna Cut is this weekend! Go and see a whole bluefin get taken apart and reduced to sushi, which you can then buy, and I'm talking chu-toro and o-toro sushi. The GOOD STUFF.
"Video games are bad for you? That's what they said about rock 'n roll." -Shigeru Miyamoto, creator of The Legend of Zelda, circa 1990
#9
Posted 07 November 2007 - 08:48 AM
certainly places off the PATH or Mitsuwa are accessible easily enough.
#10
Posted 07 November 2007 - 08:49 AM
Total number of hourseholds in Manhattan (from US Census): 785,127
I hope at this point nobody thinks the "we have no cars!" excuse is a straw man! New Yorkers are so wedded to the idea that they don't have cars, they somehow manage to overlook that when you walk down any street in Manhattan you walk past car after car after car, garage after garage after garage -- in residential neighborhoods. Those cars are owned by people. Not that you need a car to get to New Jersey.
The problem is lack of motivation and knowledge, not lack of cars. That's what we're going to fix here. It ends today!
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#11
Posted 07 November 2007 - 08:59 AM
second, my circle of acquaintances numbers a couple hundred. I can think of exactly two (I just remembered the other) with cars: both work in pharmaceutical sales and do a reverse commute. neither is going to lend me their car.
third, yeah, there are a lot of cars on the street...most of them don't belong to residents. that's a fact. that's the point behind the congestion pricing proposal.
fourth, we obviously know very different people.
#12
Posted 07 November 2007 - 09:02 AM
What's wrong with being lazy? Sure, you can get to NJ food via Penn Station or Port Authority, but I don't want to go to Port Authority/Penn Station when it takes me 2 trains to get there. Then I have to buy an NJ Transit ticket, get on the train, wait for the train to leave, arrive at my destination, and then get to the restaurant. I've visited family in Edison and eaten out at fine Asian restaurants there, but it was a hassle to get out there.
It's much easier psychologically to use my (already paid for) Metrocard to go somewhere nearby, or, hell, walk down the street and be at my destination in 10 minutes vs. a multi-step process. I live in the East Village of Manhattan and there's so much to try in my neighborhood that I have trouble keeping up with my own neighborhood restaurants.
I have a Zipcar membership, too, and it's a pain to take a last minute trip because the cars get reserved so quickly.
#13
Posted 07 November 2007 - 09:07 AM
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#14
Posted 07 November 2007 - 09:10 AM
it's not a straw man, it's true. NY'ers don't have cars.
#15
Posted 07 November 2007 - 09:14 AM
I only have one friend who has a car, and it's a really crappy car that he uses to drive home to Maine to visit family. The windows don't work right. He's not a foodie who likes to dine out and spend money dining out.
There are good restaurants in New Jersey, fine, but I'm not going to traipse over there because of my time/cost versus benefit ratio. Traffic, tolls, time spent waiting...
According to the 2000 U.S. Census, more than 75% of Manhattan households do not own a car.
This post has been edited by kathryn: 07 November 2007 - 09:28 AM
#16
Posted 07 November 2007 - 09:20 AM
uptown families...who often have cars or consort with other families with cars. and then the way most live...singles either with roommates or in studios and one-bedrooms. yes, four roommates living together in a large SoHo loft count as a household for census purposes...but in reality they're not. they're really four households.
#17
Posted 07 November 2007 - 09:22 AM
1) What percentage of Manhattan foodies have cars or easy access to one?
2) If one has to use Zipcar or something of the sort then how much time is involved in getting and returning the car?
3) Most of the North NJ locations mentioned are no more than 4 to 10 miles from an point in Manhattan by car - bit if there's a fair amount of traffic coming going in the tunnels or on the GWB.... how much extra time gets chewed up in your precious evening hours by going to NJ to eat?
I don't live in Manhattan but have many friends who do and I did live in North Jersey for a few years so I have some perspective on the issue. Can't speak for others but I work about 50 to 55 hours in the average week. Chewing up an additional hour or two on any given evening in order to explore alternate dining options isn't an option for me except on the occasional weekend.
I live a one hour drive from Ithaca NY where there are some excellent dining options different from what I find here in Syracuse. But I rarely (i.e. no more than a few times each year) take advantage of that fact. I can easily drive to any restaurant in the Syracuse area in 10 to 15 minutes. I'm looking at a time savings of 90 minutes or more if I dine in this area rather than schlepping down to Ithaca.
Even taking a train to the outer boroughs is far more time consuming than staying in Manhattan to eat.
[rhetorical_question]
But there is another question that hasn't been asked.... is there a sort of reverse parochialism at play among some Manhattan foodies? Could there be a group of people so insulated from local (i.e. metro NYC) experiences that they assume nothing else (apart from a few other key major cities and foreign countries) could approach the depth and breadth of the dining experience they get in Manhattan?
[/rhetorical_question]
#18
Posted 07 November 2007 - 09:24 AM
Now, I'll travel to Boston, DC, Philadelphia, Albany, etc. to see a show. I'll go deep into Brooklyn, far into Queens and high into the Bronx for food...just last Saturday, we hit up a couple of carts in Astoria and smoked a hookah full of tobacco on Steinway St. (I needed a nap after that, boy). I'll drive to the Rockaways to look at the ocean, Coney Island for Nathan's and Totonno's, and Newburgh for BBQ.
I live 5 minutes from Chinatown, 30 minutes from Union Square, 10 minutes from JAS and the new Whole Foods on Houston - all by foot. I can buy anything I can get at Matsuwa by shopping at these places. I can get pizza at Arturo's, Patsy's, Di Fara's, Una Pizza Nap., etc. I can get hot dogs at Katz's or Crif Dogs (and have a damn good cocktail at the same time). I can get some pretty high-end dim sum at Chinatown Brasserie and Dim Sum Go-Go. I can walk to Momo. I can't get great Vietnamese, though Bun may be a start. Fuck New Jersey. (Well, not the people necessarily, but the driving to, in and from is a real pain in the ass).
Edited to lighten up the sentiment about NJ.
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#19
Posted 07 November 2007 - 09:51 AM
http://www.nyc.gov/h...us/socionyc.pdf
If I'm reading it right, they surveyed 739,167 households. 432,947 of those were non-family households, to phaelon56's points. I looked for a breakdown of non-family households broken down by number of rooms but couldn't find it.
http://www.nyc.gov/h..._cd_profile.pdf
This has a breakdown of access to vehicles in Manhattan versus community district. Access to 0 cars is higher than 80% in some districts of Manhattan below 42nd street.
If that's where the "foodies" live...and we take into account multiple non-family members living as a "household" then that's probably a large factor in the perception that "Manhattanites don't have access to cars."
This post has been edited by kathryn: 07 November 2007 - 10:01 AM
#20
Posted 07 November 2007 - 09:52 AM
Moksha, owned by the Mehtani Restaurant Group, which I've been following for the past couple of years as part of the research for my book and for a feature in Food Arts (they've hosted me multiple times at all of their restaurants in Edison and Morristown), is simply awesome. It's a whole world of Indian flavors that just don't get picked up in the standard Moghul-influenced North Indian places that dominate the Indian food scene outside of India. South Indian cuisine is more tropical, and you can see a lot of the flavor parallels to Southeast Asian food. People who hail from, for example, Bangalore, come from a lot farther away than Manhattan to eat at Moksha. They come from all over the Northeast or Middle Atlantic. I think you would really enjoy the lunch buffet. It's relatively inexpensive -- and I don't mean to imply that the restaurant is anything but elegant and serious; it just so happens the buffet is a deal. You can do it on the weekend when the traffic is gentle (it's also walkable -- though kind of a hike -- from the NJ Transit train station), and you get to try a ton of different, interesting main dishes, soups, breads, condiments (definitely pay attention to the condiments), etc.
Right downstairs in the same shopping center is the best Indian dessert shop I've ever been to, owned by the same company. It's called Mithaas. "Starbucks meets Bollywood" is the theme, and the level of pastry accomplishment is a cut above anything I've seen in New York.
Moksha
1655-200 Oak Tree Road
Edison, NJ
732.947.3010
http://www.moksharestaurants.com/
Mithaas
1655 - 170 Oak Tree Road
Edison, NJ
732.947.3014
http://www.mithaas.net/
All the information about all the Mehtani Restaurant Group places:
http://mehtanirestaurantgroup.com/
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#21
Posted 07 November 2007 - 09:56 AM
kathryn, on Nov 7 2007, 11:51 AM, said:
Which means about 25% do. And that's just in Manhattan. For the other boroughs it's a majority of households that do have cars.
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#22
Posted 07 November 2007 - 09:57 AM
So the issue isn't laziness (car or no car.) Seems to me you're approaching this from the wrong angle altogether. I have good friends in NJ, I'm a New Yorker and I don't own a car (I don't even have a license, I don't even know how to start a friggin' car), but I go to NJ pretty often to visit them. Because I want to. If I really wanted to go to a particular restaurant there, I would. I think others would as well. The issue is not laziness.
#24
Posted 07 November 2007 - 10:16 AM
getting in and out of the city is a bit of a hassle. when i'm in the city i go out in the city. if i'm in NJ, where i live, i'm hard pressed to go to the city for a meal. i can't imagine if i lived in the city that i'd go to jersey. between losing a parking spot, and the traffic, or the trains, yuck.
that said the ironbound is probably the one place i'd consider. i don't know of many places outside of newark around NYC that are quite like it. not that the restaurants there are world-class by any stretch.
#25
Posted 07 November 2007 - 10:32 AM
tommy, on Nov 7 2007, 12:16 PM, said:
That is the comparison, exactly.
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#26
Posted 07 November 2007 - 10:43 AM
(There are a couple of smoked fish outlets in Westchester, but because of the configuration of the Eg board, Westchester does not exist on Egullet).
#27
Posted 07 November 2007 - 10:45 AM
Fat Guy, on Nov 7 2007, 10:32 AM, said:
tommy, on Nov 7 2007, 12:16 PM, said:
That is the comparison, exactly.
yes, they have cars in L.A.
#28
Posted 07 November 2007 - 11:01 AM
1. Restaurants in Northern New Jersey that are better than any comparable restaurant in New York City. The example I gave of Moksha, above, fits I think into this category. Assuming I'm right about Moksha (others may disagree, but let's assume I'm either right or that there are a few other restaurants in other categories that meet the criteria), that means you can't get an analogous experience in New York City. To me, if you're an eG-level extreme gourmet, you might see that as a hole in your experience that needs plugging. And it's not a hole like "I haven't been to Cambodia." It's a hole like "I haven't spent a Saturday checking out Edison."
2. Restaurants in Northern New Jersey that are comparable quality-wise to New York City restaurants but offer a variant that is not available in New York City or that is superior to the New York city equivalent. A good example here would be White Manna in Hackensack. There are a lot of good burgers in New York City, and a few good ones in the "sliders" category. But there's no restaurant in New York City quite like White Manna. Wonderful little sliders made from hand-formed patties served on miniature Martin's potato rolls, in the coolest old mini-diner building you ever did see. Here's the whole eG Forums topic on White Manna. Another good example here is the myriad of hot-dog places in Northern New Jersey -- I hope John will come along to comment on that. For people who are passionate about a given type of restaurant, I think places in this category should be classified as must-visits.
3. Places in Northern New Jersey that are as good as places in New York City, and do not necessarily offer unique experiences, but are among the small handful of best places in their categories. There are a bunch of Chinese, Korean, etc., places that fit this description. These are for the collectors: the people who really want to have a handle on the Korean food scene in our area, or the Chinese food scene. Because one's knowledge of those food scenes is incomplete without at least some exposure to the Northern New Jersey highlights. Needless to say, knowledge is always incomplete -- nobody has been to every restaurant -- but Northern New Jersey has very significant Asian communities.
4. Neighborhood-based Northern New Jersey experiences that can't be matched in New York City. Newark's Ironbound neighborhood is one, Edison is another. Again, for those who are interested in culinary-cultural neighborhood exploration, places like the Ironbound and Edison are as essential as Astoria and Flushing.
5. BYO. One of the great pleasures of dining in Northern New Jersey is that so many restaurants are BYO. So many of my meals in New Jersey have been enhanced by being able to bring a variety of interesting beers, wines and spirits to have with dinner. Of course you need a designated driver.
6. Shopping. New Jersey ethnic food shopping is great. Once you get out there, the Super H-Mart, the Mitsuwa Marketplace, the Foodmart International and a few other places are great fun to visit. You can probably go around New York City and cobble together most of the same stuff, but the experience is inimitable. Many times, I've made a day of combining shopping (both food and non-food) with eating in New Jersey. If you hit multiple spots then the drive there and back isn't a big deal.
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#29
Posted 07 November 2007 - 11:48 AM
Fat Guy, on Nov 7 2007, 02:01 PM, said:
2. Restaurants in Northern New Jersey that are comparable quality-wise to New York City restaurants but offer a variant that is not available in New York City or that is superior to the New York city equivalent. A good example here would be White Manna in Hackensack. There are a lot of good burgers in New York City, and a few good ones in the "sliders" category. But there's no restaurant in New York City quite like White Manna. Wonderful little sliders made from hand-formed patties served on miniature Martin's potato rolls, in the coolest old mini-diner building you ever did see.
I am a resident of Northern NJ for 27+ years.
I consider myself a "foodie". I would travel out of my way to try something special. I make many trips per month just to go into Manhattan for lunch or dinner.
I am not employed in the food industry.
That being said....NYers please don't make a special trip to go to White Manna. It is just not worth it. Sure....cute cool looking diner. Place is dirty. Burgers are small and served on potato rolls. Not rocket science! Just make them at your home. Look at the pics of the building over the internet.
Sure, come visit the Ironbound Section someday or Edison, NJ. I really couldn't even encourage you to go too far out of your way for those places.
The food and restaurant scene is far superior in Manhattan. We have some great places to eat but I would most likely choose a place in Manhattan over any of them any day of the week.
Nuff said.
#30
Posted 07 November 2007 - 11:54 AM
The first example he gave, Mitsuwa Marketplace, is mainly a market, not a restaurant. I'm not suggesting that Markets are irrelevant, but my main food interest is as a diner. I'm not missing out on Mitsuwa because I'm lazy, but because I don't want what they're selling.
Among restaurants cited, most are of the "cheap eats" variety. Let's assume I can get there, eat, and get back in 4 hours. A 4-hour Zipcar rental is around $45 plus tolls. Are any of these places so good that they justify an approximately $50 premium (not counting the value of travel time) to go eat there? Another way of asking is: if these places were in Manhattan, but the cost of dinner for two was $25pp higher than they are now, would these places be popular? I suspect not.
Even among foodies, there are degrees of insanity. At one extreme are nutcases like Jim Leff, who will miss his plane to try out an airport taco stand. Jim Leff would absolutely spend the fifty bucks so that he could have the sliders at White Manna in Hackensack. I'm not lazy, but I need a bit more to entice me than that.
Marc Shepherd
http://nyjournal.squarespace.com/

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