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Starchefs International Chefs Congress 2007 Views From Atop the Culinary World

#121 User is offline   Mikeb19

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Posted 24 October 2007 - 11:24 AM

Freeze dried powders are great. When I was a pastry chef I used to make a variety of flavoured Macarons with various fruit powders... (I wasn't content simply doing coloured macarons with flavoured ganaches and fillings...) You can also use freeze dried ingredients in cakes, and a variety of other doughs...

This post has been edited by Mikeb19: 24 October 2007 - 11:25 AM


#122 User is offline   VPF

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Posted 24 October 2007 - 08:39 PM

A sauce made with compost? Interesting, but in all honesty, this doesn't sound appealing to me.

Doc, I would also like to thank you for your reporting. It's incredibly informational for all of us who couldn't be there.

#123 User is offline   docsconz

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Posted 25 October 2007 - 02:51 AM

VPF, on Oct 24 2007, 11:39 PM, said:

A sauce made with compost? Interesting, but in all honesty, this doesn't sound appealing to me.

Doc, I would also like to thank you for your reporting. It's incredibly informational for all of us who couldn't be there.
View Post


I have to agree. It doesn't sound very appealing, but I would try it with an open mind. I had Joan Roca's oyster with distilled earth and found it to be very good, though that isn't intuitive either. nevertheless, I doubt that this would ever catch on in more than a small handful of restaurants.

I'm glad that this is able to provide something of interest to some people. It helps justify my being there as an amateur amongst all those great chefs and media professionals.
John Sconzo aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
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#124 User is offline   docsconz

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Posted 26 October 2007 - 01:42 PM

I just found this photo of Arzak's finished squab dish:

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John Sconzo aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder
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#125 User is offline   docsconz

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Posted 27 October 2007 - 03:22 PM

Posted Image Shannon Bennett of Vue de Monde in melbourne, Australia was up next with his uniquely theatrical cuisine was up next with a presentation entitled Improv Theatre: Dishes Born from Quick Inspirations. Theater has always been an element of fine dining whether it was old-world style table-side finishing of dishes to contemporary open kitchens and bar-seating in front of restaurants. Bennett is a showman with his cooking, adding modern theatricality to his cuisine based on good flavor. He focused in this demonstration on the preparation of a specific dish, "5 Minute Bouillabaisse with Toro Tartare, Buffalo Milk Skin and Aromatic Herbs." The title of this is deceptively simple. Though the actual cooking time is brief, the prep time is probably quite lengthy.

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A Cona pot used to make the bouillabaisse

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The Cona pot set up and ready for action

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Setting up the Cona for the infusion. Bennette added crayfish bones, shaved fennel, shallots, tomato puree, carrot, tarragon, basil, thyme, celery leaves, crayfish antennae and spies to the top bowl.
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Mussdel stock was poured ino the lower boowl.

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Beginning assembly of the plate with toro tartare

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Heat was applied to the mussel stock

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The Cona pot wsa placed over the stock. s the stock heated a vacuum was created forcing the stock up into the top bowl where it was infused by the ingredients there.

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The vacuum was broken and the infused stock returned to the bottom pot.

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Buffalo milk skin had been applie over the toro, rouille dots were placed on the skin and covered with baby basil shoots and Chef Bennett poured the infused stock over the dish.

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The final plate: 5 Minute Bouillabaisse with Toro tartare, Buffalo Milk Skin and Aromatic Herbs. I tasted the infused stock backstage. It was delicious.

This post has been edited by docsconz: 28 October 2007 - 12:41 PM

John Sconzo aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder
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Twitter - @docsconz

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#126 User is offline   hathor

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Posted 28 October 2007 - 03:49 AM

docsconz, on Oct 27 2007, 03:22 PM, said:

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Setting up the Cona for the infusion. Bennette added crayfish bones, shaved fennel, shallots, tomato puree, carrot, tarragon, basil, thyme, celery leaves, crayfish antennae and spies to the top bowl.
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View Post


Were the spies added to get rid of them or to add flavor?? :laugh: :laugh:

But seriously....now I want a Cona pot....how cool! And there had to be something added to that buffola milk skin, caaragen (sp?)?
What a great technique to add immediate flavors....

#127 User is offline   docsconz

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Posted 28 October 2007 - 06:31 AM

hathor, on Oct 28 2007, 06:49 AM, said:

Were the spies added to get rid of them or to add flavor??  :laugh:  :laugh:

But seriously....now I want a Cona pot....how cool!  And there had to be something added to that buffola milk skin, caaragen (sp?)?
What a great technique to add immediate flavors....
View Post


:laugh: :laugh: You got me with a good typo, Judith! My spellchecker obviously missed it as did I.

As for the Buffalo milk skin, you are absolutely correct about the carrageenan as kappa carrageenan is used along with buffalo mozzarella, milk, salt, pepper and a thermomix at 80ºC.
John Sconzo aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder
"Docsconz - The Blog"

Twitter - @docsconz

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#128 User is offline   docsconz

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Posted 28 October 2007 - 02:34 PM

Posted Image All the way from his restaurant, Calima in Marbella, Spain, Dani García discussed and demonstrated the influence of Andalusian Landscapes on his culinary work.

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Jose Andres, the irrepressible chef from Washington, D.C. translated.

Garcia showed clips of the Andalusian landscape and fascinating examples of his work based on those land and seascapes. One dish, "Below the Sea - The Ocean and the Mist" used various edible components to produce a seascape worthy of many an aquarium. For landscapes he showed "El Torcal de Antequera: Andalusian Rocks Eroded with Time and Seen in Winter, with Chocolate and Orange." Images, descriptions and recipes for these dishes and several others can be found in this PDF article (in Spanish). There is an English translation of the recipe for "El Torcal" in the Starchefs Program.

Another dish he focused on with an on-site demonstration was "The Ingot of Liquid Gold."
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Garcia's "Liquid Gold". This is a mixture of "aromatic water", gold dust and vegetable gelatin heated to 69ºC.

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Getting the gold hot and liquidy. At room temperature it is a fairly solid gel.

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An expert with working with liquid nitrogen, Garcia gave tips for using it safely. For example, It will harmlessly roll off bare skin, but becomes dangerous should it become absorbed in fabric."

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Dani Garcia through the haze of liquid nitrogen

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An unabashed promoter of Andalusian olive oil, Garcia employs a double entendre as he mixes olive oil with pulverized gold then siphons it into liquid nitrogen, fishes it out and puts it through a Pacojet to get a mousse like consistency, which he then puts in ingot molds and freezes it to -30ºC. To get it really cold he dips the bar into liquid nitrogen for several seconds then dips it into the molten gold to coat it and make it shiny resembling a real gold ingot.
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Garcia composes the plate with ground macadamia nuts and Caviar de Ríofrío

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John Sconzo aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder
"Docsconz - The Blog"

Twitter - @docsconz

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#129 User is offline   adey73

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Posted 29 October 2007 - 05:17 AM

Fantastic!
Now that's conspicuous consumption!
“Do you not find that bacon, sausage, egg, chips, black pudding, beans, mushrooms, tomatoes, fried bread and a cup of tea; is a meal in itself really?” Hovis Presley.

#130 User is offline   docsconz

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Posted 01 November 2007 - 05:27 PM

More from Starchefs on the Pacojet competition including photos and the winning recipes.

I still have a little more to go before I finish this report. I haven't forgotten it, but unfortunately I may not be able to get to it for another week or so.
John Sconzo aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder
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#131 User is offline   Curlz

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Posted 01 November 2007 - 05:32 PM

If anyone reading this thread is thinking "I want to run that show next year," Starchefs is looking for a Congress Culinary Director!
"I'm not eating it...my tongue is just looking at it!" --My then-3.5 year-old niece, who was NOT eating a piece of gum

"Wow--this is a fancy restaurant! They keep bringing us more water and we didn't even ask for it!" --My 5.75 year-old niece, about Bread Bar

"He's jumped the flounder, as you might say."

#132 User is offline   docsconz

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Posted 01 November 2007 - 06:03 PM

Curlz, on Nov 1 2007, 08:32 PM, said:

If anyone reading this thread is thinking "I want to run that show next year," Starchefs is looking for a Congress Culinary Director!
View Post


Very interesting. That is a big job!

Elena Arzak's technique for Squid Powder and the recipe for Squid “Begi Haundi,” in Abstract can be found here.
John Sconzo aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder
"Docsconz - The Blog"

Twitter - @docsconz

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#133 User is offline   Fugu

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Posted 04 November 2007 - 05:29 PM

I just stumbled into this posting, what a wonderful thread. Cooking sure has changed since I retired my Chef jacket and hat. I am the classical cooking type but I still try to keep up with the trends and this thread is just fantastic! Thanks Docsconz!

Gerry

#134 User is offline   docsconz

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Posted 26 November 2007 - 10:02 AM

Fugu, on Nov 4 2007, 07:29 PM, said:

I just stumbled into this posting, what a wonderful thread. Cooking sure has changed since I retired my Chef jacket and hat. I am the classical cooking type but I still try to keep up with the trends and this thread is just fantastic!  Thanks Docsconz!

Gerry
View Post


Thanks! I have been meaning to complete the report, but have been quite busy with a number of things. I hope to do so today or within the next few days.
John Sconzo aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder
"Docsconz - The Blog"

Twitter - @docsconz

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#135 User is offline   docsconz

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Posted 26 November 2007 - 11:02 AM

Jose Andres segued from translating for Dani Garcia to demonstrating along with Ruben Garcia and Katsuya Fukushima from Cafe Atlantico/minibar in Washington D.C.
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Chef Andres' relationship with Ferran Adria is well known as is the influence of elBulli on his work, especially at minibar, which is the closest thing to elBulli on this side of the Atlantic Ocean. Throughout the presentation Chef Andres discussed the techniques he and his team are using now as well as the influence of the Adriaas on their work.

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The influence of elBulli was clearly demonstrated by Andres' use of the Texturas line of culinary "powders." The Calcic and Algin are used with the technique of "spherification." In English they are Calcium Chloride and Sodium Alginate. This technique, developed and popularized by Ferran Adria, has been put to good and original use at minibar, a demonstration of which was to follow.

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Using Campbell's Tomato Juice, which had the balance they were looking for, the team prepared tomato spherifications, which they placed in a dehydrator to make "dried tomatoes."

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They spread a soft, creamy cheese, Torta Cañarejal along the base of a plate...

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Ruben Garcia then added some of the "dried tomatoes"...

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...some Romesco sauce...

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...and one of Chef Andres' favorite ingredients - tomato seeds in nature's own spherificized tomato gelee...

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...while Ruben Garcia meticulously plated all of the ingredients to produce...

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...Jose Andres' version of a Caprese Salad.

As this demonstration concluded so did the second annual Starchefs International Chefs Congress. It was now time to celebrate the end of an incredible event...
John Sconzo aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder
"Docsconz - The Blog"

Twitter - @docsconz

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#136 User is offline   eskay

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Posted 26 November 2007 - 02:52 PM

Great report and photography. It's always interesting to hear what some of the great minds are coming up with. Thanks for sharing this with us. :smile:
Kate

#137 User is offline   docsconz

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Posted 26 November 2007 - 09:36 PM

Thanks for the comments, Kate.

Here is a link to Starchefs.com with Jose Andres providing basic instructions for the spherification process and additional photos from the Conference..
John Sconzo aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder
"Docsconz - The Blog"

Twitter - @docsconz

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#138 User is offline   hathor

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Posted 27 November 2007 - 09:01 AM

Wow. This was clearly a labor of love and passion on your part.
Grazie mille for taking the time and sharing with us.

Now, on the other hand, there is a whole boat load of new toys that I want to play with...including that nifty kona coffee pot....and for this toy lust, I do blame you, Doc! :laugh: :laugh:

#139 User is online   Anna N

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Posted 27 November 2007 - 01:20 PM

Just wanted to add my thanks to you, Doc, for sharing this with us all. Even though I think a lot of these ideas and techniques are way beyond me I always find something that inspires something else!
Anna Nielsen aka "Anna N"

"It either works fine or not, but what the heck. This is bread, not birth control." Susan of Wild Yeast blog

#140 User is offline   docsconz

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Posted 27 November 2007 - 02:38 PM

The Starchefs Rising Stars Review held at The Mansion was the culmination of this year's event. Like last year in the same venue under a different name, this year's event was focused on haute street food concepts prepared by the chefs Starchefs deemed as "Rising Stars" for NYC. These included:
    StarChefs.com 2007 New York Rising Stars:
    Michael Anthony | Gramercy Tavern
    Eric Hara | davidburke & donatella
    Craig Hopson | Picholine
    Chris Lee | Gilt
    Akhtar Nawab | The EU
    Masato Shimizu | 15 East
    Yosuke Suga | L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
    Damon Wise | Craft
    Sustainability Award: Daniel Eardley | Chestnut
    Restaurant Concept Award: Chris Santos | The Stanton Social
    Hotel Chef Award: Doug Psaltis | Country at The Carlton Hotel
    Pastry Chef Tim Butler | Alto
    Pastry Chef Bill Corbett | Formerly of Anthos
    Mixologist Jim Meehan | PDT
    Sommelier Stephane Colling | The Modern
.

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Prior to the opening of the Star Chefs Review proper, there was a VIP reception hosted by Galen Zamarra of Mas (Farmhouse). Unfortunately, because it took me awhile to make my way from 7 WTC to the Mansion, I missed this.


The large crowd sometimes made it difficult to get to specific stalls, but there was plenty of great food and drink to go round.

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Eardley of Chestnut was the lone Brooklyn establishment represented.

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Farmer Lee Jones chatting with former Rising star Chef Tony Esnault perhaps discussing provisions for the upcomin Adour at the St. Regis Hotel.

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These were tasty nibbles.

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Chef Anthony sampling an exotic spice.

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This incredibly tender octopus was one of the most outstanding dishes of the event.

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The eGullet Society's own John Deragon (Johnder) representing PDT serving cocktails.

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Former Rising Star Chef Galen Zamarra enjoying the event after the opening VIP reception.

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Stanton Social chef Chris Santos serving Maine Crabcake Corndogs.

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Brasserie Chef Franklin Becker serves while Clio chef Ken Oringer admires.

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Jose Andres joining the fun at the Brasserie stall.

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The eGullet Society's own Donbert at the PDT bar.

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Donbert bringing drinks to the crew at the L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon station. At least one of the crew is an eGullet Society member, but I'm not sure that he would want to be identified here.

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Yosuke Suga's Eel and Rougie Foie Gras Terrine from L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon. Believe it or not, I almost missed this. I'm glad I didn't as it was outstanding.

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Doug Psaltis when he was still at Country.

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Bill Corbett's Sesame in Sesame dessert. He is now the pastry chef at Michael Mina in San Francisco.

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A sense of the ambiance and scene.

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eGullet Society member and Staff Emeritus Joe Bavuso (JosephB) going double barrel with the wine glasses. Actually, he was just holding mine while I took the photo. :raz:

Unfortunately I didn't get decent pics of all of the stalls. so I had to leave some out here.

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The 2007 New York Starchefs Rising Star Chefs flanked by Will Blunt and Antoinette Bruno of Starchefs.com.

Once again, the party proved to be a great culmination to a great event as attendees, presenters, Rising Star Chefs and the general public mingled throughout this large space eating great food and drinking great wines and cocktails. As the organization grows in experience each subsequent event will likely be even better as difficult as that is to imagine.
John Sconzo aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder
"Docsconz - The Blog"

Twitter - @docsconz

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#141 User is offline   docsconz

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Posted 27 November 2007 - 03:02 PM

The next Starchefs International Chefs Congress is scheduled for September 14-16, 2008 in NYC.
John Sconzo aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder
"Docsconz - The Blog"

Twitter - @docsconz

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#142 User is offline   johnder

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Posted 27 November 2007 - 03:05 PM

*blush*
John Deragon

I feel sorry for people that don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day -- F. Sinatra.

#143 User is offline   docsconz

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Posted 16 February 2008 - 07:21 AM

The Starchefs website has a nice little video montage of last year's ICC in addition to a preliminary list of presenting chefs for the 2008 ICC. Once again, the list appears to be first rate including such luminaries as Grant Achatz, Jordi Butron, Carlo Cracco, Joan Roca and Charlie Trotter amongst a host of other notables. The dates are Sept. 14-16th.
John Sconzo aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."
- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder
"Docsconz - The Blog"

Twitter - @docsconz

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