Momofuku Ko Collaborative Cooking from David Chang
#721
Posted 06 February 2009 - 10:30 PM
- Spanish mackerel (raw) with mustard oil, meyer lemon, puffed rice
- Seared halibut with TN truffle, artichoke puree, cauliflower milk
- Black sesame ice cream with coconut and lemon cream and very large funnel cake
The funnel cake dessert was totally unexpected and really great. I grew up in MD and have many a memory of walking on the boardwalk with a funnel cake. Haven't had one in more than a decade. It was very cool that it turned up tonight.
#722
Posted 07 February 2009 - 10:23 AM
I didn't feel like it was a transcendent meal. And the privilege of interacting with the chefs seems kind of overrated to me - there's a certain amount of magic and theater in a top restaurant that happens behind the scenes, and a great amount of drama in the sequencing and presentation. If you truly want to go behind the curtain you can generally get a peek. But this felt like a play where you could see the director - an interesting device but ultimately a distraction. Also, it's not like you can see the real prep behind anything - all you can really see is assembly.
One thing truly bothered me: at the end of service I got an espresso. They charged me $4 for it. After dropping over $600 on tasting menus with wine I figured they wouldn't nickel and dime us. Other restaurants with similarly luxurious aspirations can afford to give you a cup of free coffee. We will not be returning.
This post has been edited by tkassum: 08 February 2009 - 05:41 AM
#723
Posted 18 March 2009 - 09:40 PM
I didn't have the time to post anything after my visit four weeks ago, but there were two very good dishes and the rest were a poke in the eye of real gastronomy. Chang has his gifts; too bad they get wasted in a place that feels more like a tight-fisted business plan than a real restaurant.
#724
Posted 22 March 2009 - 03:05 PM
#725
Posted 23 March 2009 - 07:57 AM
robert brown, on Mar 18 2009, 09:40 PM, said:
Quote
To me, Momofuku Ko seems consistent with the business plan of all the other Chang restaurants. (And if you want to make money, you do need to have a plan, don't you?) Chang has been wildly successful at it, so I don't expect him to change.
Marc Shepherd
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#726
Posted 27 March 2009 - 04:09 PM
tkassum, on Feb 7 2009, 11:23 AM, said:
One thing truly bothered me: at the end of service I got an espresso. They charged me $4 for it. After dropping over $600 on tasting menus with wine I figured they wouldn't nickel and dime us. Other restaurants with similarly luxurious aspirations can afford to give you a cup of free coffee. We will not be returning.
A couple of points to be made here. I don't have the impression that the format of the restaurant attempts to use the "privilege of interacting with the chefs" as a major benefit or selling point. Rather, it's one of the ways Chang uses to keep the costs down and the atmosphere informal. And his aspirations aren't luxurious...quite the contrary.
As for the displeasure at being charged for an espresso, I'm not sure where you've been dining, but I can't think of many high-end restaurants in New York offhand (or anywhere in the US for that matter) that comp their coffee service. I'm pretty sure all the restaurants at this level, as well as those that aim even higher (Jean Georges, Daniel, Adour, Le Bernardin, etc.) charge for coffee...and most charge more than $4. Do you always get upset at them, too?
#727
Posted 11 April 2009 - 06:56 AM
(EDIT: 10:20 - the site reservations.momofuku.com is actually down now)
(EDIT: up, a couple spots left)
This post has been edited by bobg01: 11 April 2009 - 07:21 AM
#729
Posted 20 April 2009 - 11:54 AM
Does anyone recall how extensive and expensive their wine by the glass list is? If I do the pairings, we are most certainly going to get the $50 match, and my real concern is that some have said that they don't pair a wine with each course. This in and of itself is not a problem as long as they give you a decent pour, and let you know in advance that a glass should last for 2 or 3 courses. What were your experiences?
#730
Posted 20 April 2009 - 12:02 PM
More than enough wine, and they told me when the glass would be used with more than one course.
(Although now that you mention it, it would be a good idea to ask them at the outset to give you that information as they go along, in case it isn't always SOP.)
#731
Posted 20 April 2009 - 12:35 PM
millions, on Apr 20 2009, 02:54 PM, said:
Does anyone recall how extensive and expensive their wine by the glass list is? If I do the pairings, we are most certainly going to get the $50 match, and my real concern is that some have said that they don't pair a wine with each course. This in and of itself is not a problem as long as they give you a decent pour, and let you know in advance that a glass should last for 2 or 3 courses. What were your experiences?
Sorry to inform you, but unfortunately Ko doesn't have wines by the glass. They used to have some nice offerings in the half bottle range, but I was there yesterday for lunch, and my half bottle choices (Prum Riesling and a Gerwertz) have been eliminated. I ordered a full bottle of Riesling and drank what I wanted (still less than the $95 pairing).
#732
Posted 20 April 2009 - 01:34 PM
millions, on Apr 20 2009, 12:54 PM, said:
Does anyone recall how extensive and expensive their wine by the glass list is? If I do the pairings, we are most certainly going to get the $50 match, and my real concern is that some have said that they don't pair a wine with each course. This in and of itself is not a problem as long as they give you a decent pour, and let you know in advance that a glass should last for 2 or 3 courses. What were your experiences?
Based on my single experience, the wine pours are generous compared to general tasting menu pours (e.g. Babbo). They did pair each course with a different wine except the oloroso sherry accompanied to last 2 dessert courses. I didn't think wine pairings were overly impressive (in $50 pairing) but quantity wise they were more than a decent pour.
This post has been edited by gatilgan: 20 April 2009 - 08:47 PM
#733
Posted 03 May 2009 - 03:03 PM
Any suggestions on solo dining in the Tribeca area? Price no issue.
#734
Posted 05 May 2009 - 10:11 AM
Saltydog, on May 3 2009, 05:03 PM, said:
Any suggestions on solo dining in the Tribeca area? Price no issue.
The place is worth the headache. And they've just won Best New Restaurant at the James Beard Awards. Can't necessarily say how good they are at confirming - have you heard back?
As for suggestions in Tribeca, we've started a new topic - click here.
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#735
Posted 05 May 2009 - 10:16 AM
#736
Posted 05 May 2009 - 01:58 PM
edsel, on May 5 2009, 01:16 PM, said:
Now it will be more difficult to obtain a reservation.
#738
Posted 07 May 2009 - 05:16 AM
edsel, on May 5 2009, 05:27 PM, said:
My e-mails were not answered but I finally received an e-mail confirming my reservation. I ended up scoring one on Sat.
#740
Posted 11 May 2009 - 03:12 PM
Sneakeater, on May 11 2009, 02:38 PM, said:
Thanks, I made note.
Review below:
If you’re not a New Yorker or a hardcore foodie you may not have heard of the hottest restaurant in New York City. Momofuko Ko, the latest James Beard award winner for Best New Restaurant in the United States and the most coveted reservation to be had in the city. Not only because Chef and co-owner David Chang is one of the hottest chefs going right now but also because the restaurant only seats 14 guests. In a metropolitan area of almost 19 million people you can imagine it can be tough to get in.
To understand “Ko” you have to understand it’s truly a chef’s restaurant. Everything is focused on the food and those who make it happen. The 14 seats are at a raised counter that surrounds the cooking line. The line is the typical sized line you’d see in thousands of restaurants. Instead of preparing the food and placing it in the “pass” for the servers to pick up it goes directly to the customer. The cooks prepare, serve and explain each dish. The “servers” clear, pour wine and take care of the bill. Two servers, three cooks, 14 customers. Like I said, it’s a chef’s kitchen. The walls are plywood, no art no fancy finish. . The music is loud and alternative, the cooks control the selection and volume. Again, it’s a chef’s kitchen. It’s almost anti customer. It’s like Chang’s revenge. “His rage against the machine” and the scary New York dining scene. A fucking jungle.
The night I was there I was seated near the chef I assumed to be Chang but to be honest I can’t be sure. (Edit: I’ve since been informed it was most likely Chef de Cuisine, Peter Serpico.) I don’t follow the chef scene and am not familiar with most of the “star” chefs. He was Asian and in charge. Who ever it was his mood was best described as brooding. All the cooks were silent and emotionless. They’re weren’t quiet because they’re in deep thought, christ, the Red Hot Chili Peppers were blaring over the speakers. I think it’s because they simply don’t want to talk to the “fish”. To break the ice I asked Asian dude what kind of yanagi he was using and he replied, “What? Do you mean what brand”? I said “yes”. “I don’t know”. Huh? The tattooed boy in the middle had a western handled Misono sujihiki and the boss is using a traditional Japanese knife used for sushi and he doesn’t know who made it? I don’t know a single cook who owns a yanagi and doesn’t know who made it. He just didn’t want to talk. I didn’t detect a smile the entire time I was there. If you’re going to remove barriers why not take advantage and interact with your customers? Especially if you have the time to do it. There was no “rush” in this restaurant. The pace was slow and easy. Quite frankly too slow and easy. It would drive me crazy. When I noticed the cooks familiarity with the menu I asked how often it changed. “Seasonally”. No wonder they looked board. They’ve been cooking the same menu for weeks and at an agonizingly slow pace. If you’re expecting to see sparks and razzle and dazzle in this kitchen forget it. If you thought you’d chat up the cooks forget it. If you didn’t know what to look for the show could be boring. For most I’m sure it is. Some folks I noticed were intently watching the cooks and others could care less. I was watching. Closely.
The Food: (I elected to have each course paired with wine)
I didn’t take notes and there is no printed menu. So my recollections may not be perfect.
Amuse
Grilled octopus with miso aioli and asparagus. Black pepper biscuit and salted pork rind. (Although they called it cicerones?)
The octopus was grilled perfectly, good flavor and tender. I thought the miso aioli was a bit tame. The black pepper biscuit was killer. No shortage of butter I’m guessing. Moist and flavorful.
Prosseco
First:
Long Island Fluke sashimi style with whipped buttermilk, poppy seeds, chives and white soy sauce.
The fluke was excellent, super fresh but I have to question if anything caught off Long Island is kosher raw? The whipped buttermilk was a match I’m not sure about. I guess it’s a kin to pickled herring in cream sauce. A classic here in the Midwest and probably most likely in the Big Apple as well. Very heavy on the poppy seeds as well. I’m not a fan of poppy seeds.
A nice German white, a Gavertz I think.
Second:
Santa Barbara uni (sea urchin), English peas, some kind of seaweed in chilled dashi broth.
Nice flavor in the dashi, not too strong, uni freaks me out a little but was the best I’ve had.
Sake
Third:
Snail sausage, mounted butter sauce, hand torn Pecorino, chives
This one was right up my alley. Excellent pasta, and I really enjoyed the sausage. He used chicken and pork fat for the base. Nice mild flavor. Probably why they paired it with a sauvignon blanc. I didn’t care for it but I’m not a SB guy.
Fourth:
Lightly smoked soft boiled chicken egg, American Sturgeon caviar, onion soubise, mini potato chips
One of the best dishes of the night, I didn’t detect much smoke in the egg but it was cooked perfectly, the yolk oozed out and was covered with the black caviar. (Which was surprisingly good) The onion soubise just tied everything together. Man, the soubise was good! I watched him make it and mounted it with a shit load of butter. (Not a bad thing in my book) Oh, and the potato chips added the texture, an integral part of the concept. Simply excellent!
A kick ass New Zealand Chardonnay
Fifth:
Lychee gelee (jelly), shredded torchon of foie gras and pine nut brittle.
A sleeper. The pretty bowls couldn’t disguise this unattractive but delicious dish. At first I had my doubts but once you combined the three ingredients it was excellent. The rich buttery foie with the cool sweet jelly and then the crunch and sweet pop from the brittle. Yeah, it was good.
A sweet German, A Riesling I think.
Sixth:
Soft hell crab, fresh heart of palm, celery, lemon juice, Old Bay seasoning.
Nice balance in this dish. I loved the straight forward approach. It hit damn near every taste bud in the mouth. I watched as middle guy thinly sliced the palm heart but unfortunately they prepped the celery ahead of time. It was sliced super thin the length of the stalk. Mandolin my guess. Both were tossed simply with fresh lemon and a lttle Old bay. Beautiful crisp salad served beneath the crab. My only problem was with the texture of the crab. The sauté the crab but they use the technique of tilting the pan at a 45 degree and cascading the hot oil over the crab collecting in the bottom of the pan and repeating rapidly. I think it doesn’t get the crab as crisp as a traditional sauté but that might just be me.
An excellent sake
Seventh:
Fried boneless Short ribs, grilled ramps, spring “alum”(?) and veal reduction.
They sous vided the short ribs for 48 hours and then chilled them. At service they take an 8 ounce chunk and throw it into the deep fryer for about four minutes. Then they slice it serve it with the ramps and a funky green sauce (Spring alum?) and nap some veal reduction over the top. Woah! It may have been the best tasting beef I’ve ever had. Incredibly flavorful and tender as hell and still medium rare to medium. Man, it was good.
A very nice Zinfandel.
Eighth:
Cream cheese encased guava sorbet.
I’ll be borrowing this one. They wrapped the excellent sorbet in cream cheese. It was a great look and a nice contrast.
A sweet white
Ninth:
Poppy seed ice cream with lemon curd.
As I said before I’m not a poppy seed fan. I will admit it was interesting paired up with the lemon curd. Again a nice contrast.
A sherry I think.
All in all a great dinner. I enjoyed it greatly. A rare chance to see into the one of the hottest kitchens in America. I wish the cooks would have been more approachable but I admit I’m a little jealous of the fact that they don’t have to talk if they don’t want to. Kinda like “don’t poke the monkeys in the cage”. I felt the value was good as well. Essentially 10 courses for $100. The wine pairing was $85 and excellent. I love the fact that it’s casual. I also like Chang’s straight forward style. I love the atmosphere and will try and return. If I do I’m going to be poking the monkeys.
There is no doubt that it’s a chef’s restaurant.
#741
Posted 12 May 2009 - 06:06 AM
Saltydog, on May 11 2009, 03:12 PM, said:
Of course, this attitude towards customers is not unique to Ko. I recall that when Momofuku Noodle Bar was still new, a customer asked David Chang (who was still behind the counter in those days) if he were the chef, and Chang curtly replied, "No." Obviously if that is the owner's attitude, it will spill over to the employees.
This post has been edited by oakapple: 12 May 2009 - 06:09 AM
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#742
Posted 12 May 2009 - 06:14 AM
I've never experienced a dinner at Ko that lasted more than about two hours, unless it was the late sitting and I voluntarily lingered after dessert. But the actual meal service is pretty much two hours no matter what. For 10 courses, it's hard to imagine two hours (12 minutes per course) being considered a slow pace.
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#743
Posted 13 May 2009 - 11:15 AM
Fat Guy, on May 12 2009, 07:14 AM, said:
I've never experienced a dinner at Ko that lasted more than about two hours, unless it was the late sitting and I voluntarily lingered after dessert. But the actual meal service is pretty much two hours no matter what. For 10 courses, it's hard to imagine two hours (12 minutes per course) being considered a slow pace.
The food wasn't served at a slow pace the cooks pace was slow. In the real world cooks move much, much faster. There is no need at Ko. Hell, half the fun is the mad rush.
#744
Posted 13 May 2009 - 10:02 PM
#745
Posted 15 May 2009 - 09:10 AM
here
They list Ko at 298-1, which seems insane to me:
a) Ssam Bar got three stars from Bruni
b) Ssam Bar got ranked 31st in the world recently
c) Ko is better and more "high end" than SSam Bar
Are any of these three points debatable? What about the 3 points above makes Ko a 298-1 dog to get a 4th star? If there was ever a critic, and a time period, where sitting at a bar can be essentially ignored if the food on the plate is at a 4 star level, I would think this is the critic and this is the time no? Plus we know the Bruni has quite the fondness for the Chang.
That's not to say that Del Posto and Aureole (under Chris Lee and in it's new establishment) aren't better bets, but I'll put some action at 298-1 against Ko any day of the week.
Am I wrong?
#746
Posted 15 May 2009 - 09:47 AM
sickchangeup, on May 15 2009, 11:10 AM, said:
Am I wrong?
I think so. It would be an astonishgly short time since the review, and as far as I know there hasn't been a significant change in the kitchen.
#747
Posted 15 May 2009 - 09:54 AM
I think Leventhal's premise is correct. The current gap between new four-star restaurants—4˝ years and counting—is by far the longest in NYT history. Awarding four stars is a signature moment for a critic, and one that he has largely been denied. He's got to be itching to pull the trigger, though I think he has enough integrity to hold his fire unless he really finds a place that is deserving. (Otherwise, he could have just given four stars to Del Posto or Bouley, and have been done with it.)
For now, I think Eleven Madison and Del Posto are out of the running, because he had a blog post about them in December, and strongly suggested that neither one is four-star material. I believe the new Aureole won't be open till June, which means Bruni probably won't have time to fully assess it—even if it would otherwise be a candidate. It is worth noting that the current incarnation of Aureole carries only two stars.
Marc Shepherd
http://nyjournal.squarespace.com/
#748
Posted 17 May 2009 - 04:14 PM
#749
Posted 17 May 2009 - 06:12 PM
#750
Posted 28 May 2009 - 06:48 AM
Good news on the wine front: Ko is now serving wines by the glass. They have a good selection covering sparkling, whites and reds. I had a 2 glasses of a delicious German Riesling that went very well with all of the courses. Ko now is offering only one wine pairing at dinner; I think the price is $95. I've had the wine pairings, and while the choices are excellent, it is too much wine for me. I like the idea that I can choose wines by the glass. I might actually branch out and try wines other than Riesling and Champagne.
All of the other courses were wonderful too. A few favorites of mine remain: the shaved foie gras torchon with the pinenut brittle, lychee and Riesling gelee; the soft boiled egg with Hackleback caviar, mini potato chips and onion; the fluke with the buttermilk and poppyseeds; the cream cheese coated guava sorbet; and the funnel cake with the black sesame ice cream (although I do wish they would change the ice cream--they had awhile back a wonderful apple sorbet). A few new dishes included a cold broth (sorry that I can't remember -- mirin(?)) with the sweetest peas and uni; soft shell crabs (and I normally don't even like soft shell crabs); tempura fried shrimp; and a nice scallop dish.

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