10 replies to this topic

[Bond Girl]

On my India trip in March, I will have 2 days in Jaipur all by myself. One of my friends has recommended a traditional Rajasthan dinner in some pre-fabricated, franchised village outside Jaipur. it sounds pretty horrid and touristy. Are there any alernatives for getting a taste of real rajasthan? Any advice would be utmost appreciated.

[Edward]

On my India trip in March, I will have 2 days in Jaipur all by myself. One of my friends has recommended a traditional Rajasthan dinner in some pre-fabricated, franchised village outside Jaipur. it sounds pretty horrid and touristy.  Are there any alernatives for getting a taste of real rajasthan?  Any advice would be utmost appreciated.

It may sound horrid and touristy, but it is actually quite cute and you will get a real taste of Rajasthani flavors in a very pleasant setting. Its not nearly as cheesy as you would imagine. The place is called "Chokhi Dhani".

In the old city near the New Gate at the end of what is called Nehru Bazaar there is a place called Ganesh Restaurant. It is literally in the wall of the old city( a true hole in the wall!). You may have to ask someone if you don't see the sign posted. You have to walk up a little flight stairs. There is no menu- I reccomend trying their Gatte Masala, chickpea flour "dumplings" in a delicious spicy gravy. Thet also make a very nice Missi ki Roti, a spiced chickpea flour flatbread.

Be sure to eat some yogurt to help digest all that chickpea flour!!

A great place to stay is the Umaid Bhavan Guesthouse. They have nice restaurant where you can try some Rajasthani meat dishes like Saafed Maas (meat in a slightly tart white sauce) or Laal Maas (meat in a red sauce).

Have a blast!

[Bond Girl]

On my India trip in March, I will have 2 days in Jaipur all by myself. One of my friends has recommended a traditional Rajasthan dinner in some pre-fabricated, franchised village outside Jaipur. it sounds pretty horrid and touristy.  Are there any alernatives for getting a taste of real rajasthan?  Any advice would be utmost appreciated.

It may sound horrid and touristy, but it is actually quite cute and you will get a real taste of Rajasthani flavors in a very pleasant setting. Its not nearly as cheesy as you would imagine. The place is called "Chokhi Dhani".

In the old city near the New Gate at the end of what is called Nehru Bazaar there is a place called Ganesh Restaurant. It is literally in the wall of the old city( a true hole in the wall!). You may have to ask someone if you don't see the sign posted. You have to walk up a little flight stairs. There is no menu- I reccomend trying their Gatte Masala, chickpea flour "dumplings" in a delicious spicy gravy. Thet also make a very nice Missi ki Roti, a spiced chickpea flour flatbread.

Be sure to eat some yogurt to help digest all that chickpea flour!!

A great place to stay is the Umaid Bhavan Guesthouse. They have nice restaurant where you can try some Rajasthani meat dishes like Saafed Maas (meat in a slightly tart white sauce) or Laal Maas (meat in a red sauce).

Thank you so much.

Have a blast!

[Episure]

I agree with what Edward said.

Sorry for the delay in replying, It's been some time I dug around for places to eat authentic food in Jaipur. From what I can remember and after cross checking with my friends there:

Jai Ambe next to sindhi camp
Sharma Dhaba near Viswhakarma Industrial estate on the Bikaner road
Rawat Sweets near Polo Victory cinema

Ask around for directions. Have fun.

[Bond Girl]

Did some research into Rajasthani cookery, it's very meat based.. Would a vegetarian like me have a problem?

[Edward]

Did some research into Rajasthani cookery, it's very meat based.. Would a vegetarian like me have a problem?

You will have no problem at all. Most of the food you encounter will be lacto-vegetarian. There will be plenty of variety, too. Be sure and try some of the delicious sweets.

[Milagai]

Did some research into Rajasthani cookery, it's very meat based.. Would a vegetarian like me have a problem?

You will have no problem at all. Most of the food you encounter will be lacto-vegetarian. There will be plenty of variety, too. Be sure and try some of the delicious sweets.

What Edward said is right.

The meat-ness is very caste-based.
The Kshatriya (warrior) groups eat more meat, to
promote warlike energy.
Other groups are typically vegetarian.
Also, other important local religions (e.g. Jain) have taken vegetarian philosophy
to a fine art.....
And meat is a luxury so you're not likely to be slipped
some unless you specifically ask for it.....

And the great thing is that in India people really understand
being vegetarian so you never have to worry about being
offered fish, or deal with hidden ingredients (e.g. stock etc.)!
Eggs are considered non-vegetarian, though dairy is a big
part of the vegetarian diet.
Most "strict" vegetarian food will not include onions or garlic
because these are associated with Rajasic energy (see
the Kshatriya comment above); and I think very strict
Jain food will not include root veggies as this involves
destroying the plant and inadvertently killing the insect
life associated with it....

Just say you are "vegetarian" and if you eat dairy products
you will have absolutely no problem.
The food is extra delicious.

If you want to avoid dairy, you will have some communicating
to do, but say "vegetarian" and say " please no milk products,
no ghee, no dahi, no cream, no milk"....
People do respect these views unlike the bafflement you
get in other places.

It's been decades since I was in Jaipur but back when
I was there, Lakshmi Misthan Bhandar (=Lakshmi Sweet House
aka LMB)
had great desserts and snacks (light meals).
They have a deep fried milk concoction called "ghevar"
that will clog your arteries but transport you to heaven
before you die......
Rajasthan specialty.......

Milagai

[Bond Girl]

Thank you both. I will post pictures when I come back.

[Edward]

Thank you both. I will post pictures when I come back.

Hope you have a great time! I also meant to mention the "ghevar". There is a specific local one made with paneer. You can't miss it- it looks like a giant carmelized honeycomb bowl. It made me cry...really

Here is a photo I took of the Paneer Ghewar from the very sweet shop that is mentioned by Milagai in the above post.



If you have the chance, ask around to have a meal called "Dal-Baati, Churma"
It is sort of the quintessential Rajasthani vegetarian meal.

It is a vibrantly seasoned dal stew served with dense, clarified butter laden bread balls. Some of these bread ball are crushed and mixed with more butter and sugar to make what is called "churma".

So, where else are you going?

Edited by Edward, 05 March 2007 - 08:48 AM.

[Bond Girl]

Edward, your picture just made me very hungry...My journey starts in Delhi, where I will attempt to find a street food called Daulat Ki Chaat-something the great Gautam has told me about, along with other great stuff. Then I go to Agra, don't know where I'll eat there, but since I'll only be there for one night I guess the Oberoi will do. Jaipur is next. Afterwards, I go to Goa then Mumbai.

[Bond Girl]

PS. I will be alone everywhere except delhi, so I hope these places are accomodating to single travelers.