5 replies to this topic

[Wilfrid]

I'd be interested to know if there are particular books about food, or writers, which you would cite as inspirations or as touchstones for quality.

Thanks.

[Leslie Brenner]

Thanks for the interesting question, Wilfred. I'm going to keep thinking about this, because I imagine more will occur to me, but off the bat I'd first say that I haven't been as inspired by food writers per se as by other writers, some of whom may have written about food in the course of writing about other things. Also, I'd say that I have very different influences in my non-fiction (including food writing) than in my fiction. As a food writer, I've been particularly impressed with John McPhee, especially his books "Oranges" and "Giving Good Weight," though again, McPhee's not particularly a food writer. His combination of great reportage and great writing are unparelleled, to my mind. That influence shows most strongly in "The Fourth Star," in which I was fascinated by the minutae of restaurant life. John and Karen Hess's 1977 book "The Taste of America" inspired me greatly as well, especially when I was writing "American Appetite." I also love M.F.K. Fisher's wonderful essays. I'll probably weigh back again on this question later--thanks again.

[cabrales]

Leslie -- I'd appreciate your thoughts on "Burgundy Stars", which chronicles the pursuit by La Cote d'Or's Bernard Loiseau of his third Michelin star (to the extent you have read the book).

[Leslie Brenner]

Cabrales, I read and enjoyed "Burgundy Stars." The author, William Echikson, focused much of the book on the overarching financial aspects of the restaurant (which isn't surprising, since he was a contributing correspondent for Fortune magazine when he wrote it). I also found his discussion of the politics of farming (vis a vis Charolais beef, etc.) very interesting. What did you think of it?

[cabrales]

Leslie -- I liked the book, particularly the background about how single-minded Loiseau was about attaining three stars. The book illustrated in some ways how insecure Loiseau might be. The chef's public personna in France is more confident. Among the interesting episodes described was how concerned Loiseau was that Patricia Wells enjoy her meal at La Cote d'Or. He apparently made her an all potato (or other similar) menu, and was relieved she enjoyed it. He even thought, for some reason, that a favorable P Wells review might aid him slightly with respect to the third star. I also liked the discussion about the lengths taken to secure the best products, including beef and cheese.

[John Whiting]

John and Karen Hess's 1977 book "The Taste of America" inspired me greatly as well, especially when I was writing "American Appetite."

This shows to good effect in the book's coverage of Colonial cuisine, in which it rightly takes its cue more from the Hesses and from Waverly Root rather than from Daniel Boorstin's bland, mass-produced _The Americans: The Democratic Experience_.