One of my biggest concerns in using noticable acid in flavoring dishes, especially final touches, is the effect it will have on the wine that is being paired with the dish.
So yes, we try to always stay within certain boundries in order to create a harmonious pairing.
Whether or not people agree that French cuisine is the reigning western cuisine and if so, whether or not it's with good reason--and that debate rages elsewhere on the site--there seems to be a consensus that a strength of both the food and wine of France has been the unique way in which they've developed together. One result is that a large part of the "sophisticated" dining pubic in English speaking countries regards wine as the beverage to be consumed with serious food. Is there more than a chance we're missing something.
I'm a pretty died in the wool francophile when it comes to food, but some time ago, a sommelier I respect, at a French restaurant (in NYC) I also respect, suggested a sake with an hors d'oeuvre. The sake was served chilled and in a nice wine glass. It was an eminently successful match. I wonder if America will lead the way for inclusion of other beverages into a formal and serious meal. Perhaps I will add "in the west"--I have had a meal that lasted almost twelve hours at the home of a friend in Tokyo and the table was littered with numerous glasses as wine, sake, whisky, beer and other alcoholic beverages were introduced along the way, while the existing beverages continued to be poured along with tea. Tea, howevr arrived in courses. Green with the meal and black afterwards. Don't ask if there was also coffee, there may have been but twelve hours of dining and drinking took a toll on my memory.
So will you soon be having a tasting menu with paired glasses of wine, sake and beer as appropriate?
Recent WorldTable posts include: comments about reporting on Michelin stars in The NY Times, the NJ proposal to ban foie gras, Michael Ruhlman's comments in blogs about the NJ proposal and Bill Buford's New Yorker article on the Food Network.
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