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emotion cookies

Mexican

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9 replies to this topic

#1 kpurvis

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 03:21 AM

I'm working on a book on funeral foods in various cultures. Recently, I interviewed a husband and wife team of restaurateurs in Dallas. She's from Colombia and he's from Mexico City. Both recall "emotion cookies" from their childhoods.
As they explained it to me, you get a plate of almond-flavored shortbread cookies. Each cookie has a different flavored topping. The toppings are vivid flavors -- he named lavender, orange peel, cinnamon, a whole list of different things. You sit down with a cup of hot chocolate and then you choose a cookie with a topping flavor that reminds you of a moment with the person you've lost. As you eat the cookie, you reexperience the emotion that the smell or taste invokes. It's a way of communing with the person. He described as being almost like a seance, intended to evoke the person's spirit through an emotion that reminds you of them.
I've done quite a lot of research into Dias de Las Muertos rituals, but I've never seen anything like that. I'd love to know more, if anyone has experienced this or has come across any reference to it.
I'd appreciate any suggestons for source material. And certainly recipes!
Kathleen Purvis, food editor, The Charlotte (NC) Observer

#2 theabroma

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 08:06 AM

Did they mention a Spanish name for the cookie, by any chance? It may be a tradition among certain groups in the larger cities. I have not run across it, but what an absolutely wonderful tradition.

thebroma
Sharon Peters aka "theabroma"

The lunatics have overtaken the asylum

#3 caroline

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 10:12 AM

Kathleen,

It sounds as if it is going to be a fascinating book.

I asked one of my friends here in Guanajuato about this today. She had never heard of such a custom. Since she is the most social individual you can imagine with contacts all over central Mexico, I take her seriously. She said perhaps in the south, in Oaxaca or Chiapas. But not around here. Or perhaps as Sharon suggests in a big city. It would be useful to know where your Mexico City informant comes from.

It also sounds as if this is a middle class custom wherever it is from. It does not sound to me like something the poor or indigenous would do.

And one more thought. Was this reported as a Day of the Dead or a funeral custom? The two are distinct around here,

Best wishes with your project. And I think I might adopt this custom in any case!

Rachel
Rachel Caroline Laudan

#4 theabroma

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 08:26 PM

I found a few thin references on the 'Net to 'remembrance cookies.' Problem for me was that they were for celebrating the departed at Samhain (so would be in the Muertos vein), but it was impossible to tell whether they were old tradition (they were to be made in the shapes of people) or a new Wiccan addition to the observance.

I will likely see the LaDuni owners this weekend, so will be happy to ask for a Spanish name for the cookie, and whether they have any idea of its origin. I have a few other Latin American and Spanish informant I intend to ask as well.

It's a lovely tradition and I want to know more about it too. I look forward to the publication of your book!


Regards,

Theabroma
Sharon Peters aka "theabroma"

The lunatics have overtaken the asylum

#5 touaregsand

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 08:36 PM

As they explained it to me, you get a plate of almond-flavored shortbread cookies. Each cookie has a different flavored topping. The toppings are vivid flavors -- he named lavender, orange peel, cinnamon, a whole list of different things.


Sounds Arab or Moorish, the cookies and the flavors that is.

#6 kpurvis

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Posted 11 May 2005 - 05:39 AM

I will likely see the LaDuni owners this weekend, so will be happy to ask for a Spanish name for the cookie, and whether they have any idea of its origin.  I have a few other Latin American and Spanish informant I intend to ask as well.


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Thanks, Theabroma. Duni mentioned as something she remembers from Bogata, and Taco also remembered it as something done in Mexico City. Apparently, he researched it a couple of years ago and was able to find information on it. The Spanish name was one of the things I'm trying to find, because that will probably make it easier to track it down.
I've done quite a lot of research on these foods, and it intrigued me that I've never seen this one described before.
Kathleen Purvis, food editor, The Charlotte (NC) Observer

#7 touaregsand

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Posted 11 May 2005 - 07:51 AM


I will likely see the LaDuni owners this weekend, so will be happy to ask for a Spanish name for the cookie, and whether they have any idea of its origin.  I have a few other Latin American and Spanish informant I intend to ask as well.


View Post

Thanks, Theabroma. Duni mentioned as something she remembers from Bogata, and Taco also remembered it as something done in Mexico City. Apparently, he researched it a couple of years ago and was able to find information on it. The Spanish name was one of the things I'm trying to find, because that will probably make it easier to track it down.
I've done quite a lot of research on these foods, and it intrigued me that I've never seen this one described before.

View Post


Perhaps someone in the Spain/Portugal forum would know the name of the cookies.

I do know that similar (possibly nearly identical cookies) are still part of the North African repetoire of pastries. I hazzard to say that they are still made in Spain as well.

#8 kpurvis

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Posted 12 May 2005 - 05:37 AM

[/quote]

Perhaps someone in the Spain/Portugal forum would know the name of the cookies.

I do know that similar (possibly nearly identical cookies) are still part of the North African repetoire of pastries. I hazzard to say that they are still made in Spain as well.

View Post

[/quote]
That's really interesting. Thank you. Do you know a name for those cookies? At least it would give me a place to start looking.
Kathleen Purvis, food editor, The Charlotte (NC) Observer

#9 chefzadi

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Posted 14 May 2005 - 09:48 AM

[quote name='kpurvis' date='May 12 2005, 05:37 AM']
[/quote]

Perhaps someone in the Spain/Portugal forum would know the name of the cookies.

I do know that similar (possibly nearly identical cookies) are still part of the North African repetoire of pastries. I hazzard to say that they are still made in Spain as well.

View Post

[/quote]
That's really interesting. Thank you. Do you know a name for those cookies? At least it would give me a place to start looking.

View Post

[/quote]


In Algerian derja the cookies are called h'rissa. They are not topped with different flavorings so much as they are infused with rose water or orange water. If you google h'rissa mostly you will find hot chili paste recipes though. The moors who occupied Spain were Algerian and Moroccan Arab/Amazighs (Berbers). I won't go too much into who the Moors were here. I will have to find out what they are called in different regions of the Maghreb. But really they have no significance for us as funeral food.

It seems finding out the Spanish name for the cookies will more likely help you find what you are looking for.

Best wishes.
I can be reached via email chefzadi AT gmail DOT com

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Ecole de Cuisine: Culinary School Los Angeles
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#10 chefzadi

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Posted 15 May 2005 - 07:16 AM

That's really interesting. Thank you. Do you know a name for those cookies? At least it would give me a place to start looking.


There is also ahrissa chamia which is marzipan with different fruit flavored toppings
I can be reached via email chefzadi AT gmail DOT com

Dean of Culinary Arts
Ecole de Cuisine: Culinary School Los Angeles
http://ecolecuisine.com





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