Jump to content


Welcome to the eGullet Forums!

These forums are a service of the Society for Culinary Arts & Letters, a 501c3 nonprofit organization dedicated to advancement of the culinary arts. Anyone can read the forums, however if you would like to participate in active discussions please join the Society.

Photo

Classic French Creme Brulee - The Topic

French

  • Please log in to reply
243 replies to this topic

#1 tan319

tan319
  • eGullet Society staff emeritus
  • 3,073 posts

Posted 14 February 2003 - 08:27 PM

hello all.
just wondering if anybody has a favorite way to cook their brulee.
I just did some in a convection oven, low fan, 225 and they got a bit wierd on top. In oval dishes, BTW.
Good texture inside. Just a bit wierd on top.
I welcome any input.
thanks.
2317/5000

#2 Dave the Cook

Dave the Cook

    Executive Director

  • manager
  • 7,110 posts

Posted 14 February 2003 - 08:37 PM

What do you mean by weird?

Dave Scantland
Executive director
dscantland@eGstaff.org
eG Ethics signatory

Eat more chicken skin.


#3 Suzanne F

Suzanne F
  • legacy participant
  • 7,398 posts

Posted 14 February 2003 - 08:38 PM

Best way: blowtorch.

#4 tan319

tan319
  • eGullet Society staff emeritus
  • 3,073 posts

Posted 14 February 2003 - 09:06 PM

I'm sorry, I should have been more descriptive.
A bit of a skin on top.
It's not broken, just a bit rough on top.
I use a torch to brulee but am super interested in one of those electronic salamander type things.
I saw it on the food network best pastry comp and did a websearch and found them for about 129.00 bucks. I might be able to get one @ my new gig since the chef seems to be more then willing to spend on stuff that improves quality.
I just started there a week ago and redid the dessert menu this week and sales are already up!!!
2317/5000

#5 snowangel

snowangel
  • eGullet Society staff emeritus
  • 8,140 posts

Posted 14 February 2003 - 09:41 PM

Best way: blowtorch.

Agreed. My friends don't call me "Sparky" for no reason. Blowtorch is also multi-purpose. Light grill. Loosen rusted on bolts, etc.
Susan Fahning aka "snowangel"

#6 nightscotsman

nightscotsman
  • participating member
  • 3,068 posts

Posted 15 February 2003 - 12:29 AM

I think the convection oven is too harsh of a heat to properly cook the creme brulee custard (as opposed to caramelizing the top). I use a conventional oven at 300-325 F and bake in a water bath until just barely set in the middle, or even still a little jiggly. You may have to lay a sheet of foil over the pan so the tops don't overcook and curdle - that's probably what happened to the ones you did in the convection oven.

#7 Dana

Dana
  • participating member
  • 918 posts

Posted 15 February 2003 - 01:04 AM

What nightscotsman said. Also use the middle rack. Mine tend to get brown on top while the inside is still not done of the pan in in the top half of the oven.
Stop Family Violence

#8 tan319

tan319
  • eGullet Society staff emeritus
  • 3,073 posts

Posted 15 February 2003 - 08:01 PM

thank you folks for the suggestions.
Today we did them in the convection oven in hotel pans @225, load off. They got raves last night, skin or not, :-).
Have to tell you though, there's some weird ovens in this place. I wasn't digging this convection oven for this flourless choc cake I was doing so I put them in a regular oven upstairs, and found out it basically has no temp unless you put it on @ 500!!!
My assistant had put them in so I found them and threw them into the convection oven and they turned out ok. I don't like it because it makes them rise unevenly, usually.
I'm also in a higher altitude so i'm sure it probably affects it.
2317/5000

#9 Fish

Fish
  • participating member
  • 158 posts

Posted 12 December 2003 - 03:55 PM

I'm having a problem getting my creme brulees (cremes brulee ?) perfect. The custard is smooth, but when I bake it, some of the portions develop a soft, foamy top that I don't like. Is there a trick to getting a smooth, firm top ? The two things I suspect I'm doing wrong are:

1) Beating the custard with an electric beater rather than a whisk. The surface gets foamy, but I skim all the foam off. Still, I wonder if using a whisk, at least when adding the cream to the egg mixture would reduce foaming.

2) Amount of water in the bain marie. Could it be that I don't enough (or that I have too) water ? I fill to just below the top of the custard in the ramekins.

Anyone ?

- S

#10 Dave the Cook

Dave the Cook

    Executive Director

  • manager
  • 7,110 posts

Posted 12 December 2003 - 04:25 PM

This happened to me a couple of weeks ago. Even though I used a whisk, and skimmed like you did, there must have been air still suspended in the custard. As it heated up, the air rose to the surface as little custard bubbles, and set there, leaving a spongy-looking (but still pretty firm) surface. That was my guess, anyway, and your experience makes me more confident. Maybe some pastry god will stroll by and let us know.

Luckily, crispy, caramelized sugar can hide a multitude of sins. No one but me knew about it.

Dave Scantland
Executive director
dscantland@eGstaff.org
eG Ethics signatory

Eat more chicken skin.


#11 lorea

lorea
  • participating member
  • 246 posts

Posted 12 December 2003 - 05:10 PM

Hmm....I stir mine with a whisk and I try not to incorporate air. And right before it goes into the bain marie, I slam the custards down on the countertop to force some of the air out. I normally end up with 2 or 3 bubbles when I do it this way. Maybe that will help?

#12 thebaker

thebaker
  • participating member
  • 282 posts

Posted 12 December 2003 - 06:16 PM

also if you have a torch you can use the flame and blow the bubbles away..
I bake there for I am....

Make food ... not war

#13 chefette

chefette
  • participating member
  • 854 posts

Posted 12 December 2003 - 06:27 PM

STIR with the whisk - no beating!!!!!!!!

If you have foamy bubbles hit them with a torch quickly BEFORE you put them in the oven

#14 tan319

tan319
  • eGullet Society staff emeritus
  • 3,073 posts

Posted 12 December 2003 - 08:49 PM

STIR with the whisk - no beating!!!!!!!!

If you have foamy bubbles hit them with a torch quickly BEFORE you put them in the oven

chefette is right, the quick pass with the torch before you bake at any bubbles will insure a smooth finish.
Also, I quickly cook my custard on the fire ala creme anglaise, then strain before pouring into my dishes, a technique that I got here on the 'gullet.
Always works for me.
Also, I prefer a radiant oven over convection for my brulee.
2317/5000

#15 nightscotsman

nightscotsman
  • participating member
  • 3,068 posts

Posted 12 December 2003 - 10:37 PM

Yep, I cook and strain before baking too. You get a much smoother, richer tasting custard that way. Never had problems with bubbles.

#16 chefette

chefette
  • participating member
  • 854 posts

Posted 13 December 2003 - 05:47 AM

Yes - always strain. That's a given.

I prefer a convection oven and then dry bake the brulee - much faster and more consistent results. But you need a good convection oven

#17 Steve Klc

Steve Klc
  • eGullet Society staff emeritus
  • 3,739 posts

Posted 13 December 2003 - 03:32 PM

The torch does seem to get rid of the micro-bubbles. I know a few people who also cover their trays of brulees with plastic wrap, tightly stretched right down to the surface. Seems to keep them more moist and helps prevent the surface from overcooking.
Steve Klc

Pastry chef-Restaurant Consultant
Oyamel : Zaytinya : Cafe Atlantico : Jaleo

chef@pastryarts.com

#18 tan319

tan319
  • eGullet Society staff emeritus
  • 3,073 posts

Posted 13 December 2003 - 04:38 PM

The torch does seem to get rid of the micro-bubbles. I know a few people who also cover their trays of brulees with plastic wrap, tightly stretched right down to the surface. Seems to keep them more moist and helps prevent the surface from overcooking.

Steve,
Plastic wrap won't melt at 250/300 f?
I always cover my flans in the pan with plastic but I bake them at 225f.

chefette:
I prefer a convection oven and then dry bake the brulee - much faster and more consistent results. But you need a good convection oven

chefette,
Can you explain what you mean by dry bake?
No waterbath?
2317/5000

#19 cbarre02

cbarre02
  • participating member
  • 468 posts

Posted 13 December 2003 - 06:01 PM

I have found that making the batter 24 hours in advance will allow all of the air to escape prior to baking. Also don't let the cream come to a boil, that will also incorporate air, the fat in the cream will trap water vapor and result in the bubbles after baking. Instead place a ladle in to the hot cream (or milk mixture), when you lift it out of the pot and a large cloud of steam rises from the bottom of the over turned ladle then you are ready. Though I am not sure what temp this is (I am guessing around 190) it has always worked for me.
Cory Barrett
Pastry Chef

#20 Dave the Cook

Dave the Cook

    Executive Director

  • manager
  • 7,110 posts

Posted 13 December 2003 - 06:53 PM

So all of you professionals are sure that this effect is caused by air in the preset mixture?

Dave Scantland
Executive director
dscantland@eGstaff.org
eG Ethics signatory

Eat more chicken skin.


#21 cbarre02

cbarre02
  • participating member
  • 468 posts

Posted 13 December 2003 - 10:19 PM

Dave you seem to be quite an authority on "egg based" subjects (no pun intended), what is your opinion?
Cory Barrett
Pastry Chef

#22 mybench

mybench
  • participating member
  • 10 posts

Posted 13 December 2003 - 11:44 PM

A couple of thoughts...

I make the custard base the day before I bake off the brulees. This gives the proteins time to absorb the excess water and ensures a creamy texture. I strain right after tempering, cool in an ice bath then into the fridge till the next day. I think this time helps with the air bubbles as well.

I place a side towel/ napkin on the sheet tray with the ramekins on top. This keeps the ramekins from sliding when you pour the water off.

I place a second sheet tray, inverted, on top of the ramekin filled sheet tray. This works well for me but I have also heard the plastic wrap idea works great.


Good luck.

#23 Dave the Cook

Dave the Cook

    Executive Director

  • manager
  • 7,110 posts

Posted 13 December 2003 - 11:55 PM

Dave you seem to be quite an authority on "egg based" subjects (no pun intended), what is your opinion?

I apologize if I gave the impression of being an expert on anything! In retrospect, my post might have seemed like a taunt, but I didn't intend it that way. I'm just a liitle surprised that everyone is convinced that entrained air is the problem. We can usually get into arguments over much less! I went on record with the air theory, up above, becuase fish taked about beating the custard. But the more I think about it, the less persuasive I find this theory.

I'm not sure exactly what fish is referring to, but what I observed was not a few microbubbles. It was a slightly spongy, lighter colored layer, about 1/4 inch thick, on top of the custard. It would take a lot of air to cause it. I cooked on the stove first -- without boiling or beating, I strained the custard, I gave the portions a good hard tap, and I didn't see any bubbles before baking -- so even if I had known about the trick with the torch, there wouldn't have been any reaon to employ it.

So now I'm wondering if it wasn't a case of too high a temperature causing evaporation above the level of the water bath, as fish surmised originally.

Dave Scantland
Executive director
dscantland@eGstaff.org
eG Ethics signatory

Eat more chicken skin.


#24 cbarre02

cbarre02
  • participating member
  • 468 posts

Posted 14 December 2003 - 12:07 AM

While "beating" the egg mixture the protein strand in the egg may have broken up. Even straining this liquid could not remove the broken protein strands. During baking these broken strand could have rose to the top, and formed there own layer outside of the homogenous one underneath.

Also I would like to point out that my inquiry about your opinion (Dave) was genuine; I was really impressed with some of the posts that you wrote for the egg cookery topic. Very interesting and well backed.
Cory Barrett
Pastry Chef

#25 Dave the Cook

Dave the Cook

    Executive Director

  • manager
  • 7,110 posts

Posted 14 December 2003 - 12:42 AM

So: 1) how could this be prevented? Is/are there warning sign(s)? 2) how can we test it?

(Thanks for your clarification. And for the compliment.)

Dave Scantland
Executive director
dscantland@eGstaff.org
eG Ethics signatory

Eat more chicken skin.


#26 Steve Klc

Steve Klc
  • eGullet Society staff emeritus
  • 3,739 posts

Posted 14 December 2003 - 06:53 AM

Dave--you cooked it on the stovetop like a creme anglaise or in the oven? Are you referring to air in this "preset" mixture or air stirred into the raw base and then baked? On this thread we seem to be talking about different methods of making brulee--the hotel high volume "creme anglaise" way (usually with a few extra yolks and or gelatin added) and the traditional way and I think both present different challenges. "Most" people still make creme brulee the old fashioned way. Have you also done it (and observed the same effects)--in this baked way--either in a convection or a conventional oven with a water bath--and if so at what temperature?

Oven-baked, and just from trials and observations, too many bubbles formed into a spongy layer on top seems to occur when the mixture is 1) whisked too vigorously and or 2) baked uncovered at too high heat. Bubbles can also be created by sloppily/too quickly pouring the base into the ramekins. It's certainly possible there are other factors--but torching away surface froth, lowering the heat, NOT whisking vigorously and covering with plastic wrap does produce a wonderful smooth brulee with a glassine surface. Any of these will help Fish improve his product. It seems the suggestion of making the unbaked base mixture a day ahead is also worth testing out side by side.

Stove-top seems to present differently. It's possible to do a very smooth bubble-free "stove-top" brulee literally on the stovetop or in the microwave, as it is a lemon curd. It "seems" to me that gradual heating in the microwave is gentler, more even and less bubble-activating than on the stovetop. The slower temperature rise and gentler stirring tends to promote more cohesive bonds possibly.

Stove-top brulees poured in ramekins after cooking "seem" to work better when you allow the mixture to cool first--and even overnight--then re-warmed slightly and pour. I never get bubbles and I pour it out very thinly into a wide shallow bowl--and then allow it to-re-set--cover with plastic and I'm good to go. (I don't brulee these, just build a dessert on top of this thin layer.) I cool my stove-top batches down with plastic pressed down on the surface--and when cold spoon out quenelles or pipe or pour as a cream. Sometimes I've poured it into half sheet pans or into flexipans to cool and freeze, but that has been for use as a component, not for use as a primary showcase--as it might be poured into a large ramekin.
Steve Klc

Pastry chef-Restaurant Consultant
Oyamel : Zaytinya : Cafe Atlantico : Jaleo

chef@pastryarts.com

#27 nightscotsman

nightscotsman
  • participating member
  • 3,068 posts

Posted 14 December 2003 - 08:03 AM

I'm not sure exactly what fish is referring to, but what I observed was not a few microbubbles. It was a slightly spongy, lighter colored layer, about 1/4 inch thick, on top of the custard. It would take a lot of air to cause it. I cooked on the stove first -- without boiling or beating, I strained the custard, I gave the portions a good hard tap, and I didn't see any bubbles before baking -- so even if I had known about the trick with the torch, there wouldn't have been any reaon to employ it.

This actually sounds to me like the custard overbaked in the oven. Essentially the mixture boiled a bit on the top and that is what caused the foamy, spongy texture.

And I just wanted to clarify that while I cook my mix on the stove top, I don't actually go all the way to the creme anglais stage. I just boil the milk and cream and temper the eggs with the hot liquid. I pour the warm base in dishes and bake in a shallow water bath at about 325 F. Starting with a warm to hot mixture reduces the amount of time in the oven so the custard doesn't loose too much moisture and helps it to cook more evenly. I believe that putting a cold mix in the oven might tend to promote overbaking because you would have to leave it in longer to cook to the center, so there is more chance of the edges getting too hot before the center is done.

#28 CRUZMISL

CRUZMISL
  • participating member
  • 280 posts

Posted 20 December 2003 - 12:35 PM

I just made my first creme brulee's today. I had enough to fill 6 ramekins all the way and the 7th was about 1/3 full. I figured this was good since I could taste it to see if it was any good. Anyway it was a bit eggy but it was also a bit overdone. Could the added cooking time contribute to the "eggy" flavor? The remaining 6 stayed in the oven longer but they were still quivering when I took them out which I presume should be OK. A few have some brown area's but that's probably from the uneven heat.

Anyway, what type of sugar do I sprinkle on top? Turbinado, regular white sugar, superfine?

Thanks,
Joe

#29 Dejah

Dejah
  • participating member
  • 3,081 posts

Posted 20 December 2003 - 01:00 PM

I want to make creme brulee for our family Xmas dinner. Crazy request from the family as I have never made it before, but they all love it.

There will be 25 of us for the meal. Is it possible to make this in a large container, for example, the French white type lasagne dish? I am wondering if the centres will cook thru' in the same amount of time.

Can I keep it cool, bake the second one, and then do the carmalizing just before serving?
Dejah
www.hillmanweb.com

#30 mckayinutah

mckayinutah
  • participating member
  • 322 posts

Posted 20 December 2003 - 01:29 PM

Dry some brown sugar by leaving out for 1 or 2 days, (spread out on a sheetpan or other shallow pan ), then sift that over each ramekin of brulee and then torch.


Jason





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: French