Posted 02 November 2003 - 02:05 PM
Tan, I've been searching my menu with the dishes I had this summer at Can Roca, which led to a Sunday clean up/reorganization of foodie's items (business cards, menus, magazines). Unfortunately, I haven't found that menu.
Nevertheless, I'll try to elaborate on Can Roca, and Roca's desserts specifically.
In my visit, I'd the opportunity to exchange some words with Josep Roca, whom takes care of the dining room and the wine.
He told me about the origins of the restaurant. One of the things that suprises you about Can Roca is that's not located in "downtown" Girona, but in the outskirts of this small town. Well, the reason for that, according to Josep, lies in the background of the restaurant. The parents of the Roca's brothers, moved to Girona and founded a modest "casa de comidas", now next to Can Roca. This kind of restaurant pertains to a well stablished category in Spain, which starts serving breakfast around six a.m. to workers who are leaving to their factories, serving fixed price menu to them for lunch, and some tapas and beer in the evening for the neighbours. Very hard work, if you ask. This restaurant still operates, and in fact you can find Josep Roca himself there early in the morning when his parents are on holidays.
Always interested in the business, around 15 years ago, Joan Roca, the elder brother, decided to stablish by himself, founding Celler de Can Roca. Josep joined El Celler some time later, and so did the youngest brother, Jordi, who has taken charge of the pastry and desserts made at Can Roca.
El Celler is a small restaurant, with a capacity of about 40 guests. They have a fairly good occupation level, even in winter, because they've not turned down local clientele raising prices unconsciously. Of course, since they achieved their first star (1999), and furthermore the second one, they attract a large number of foodies from every place. They have started a new business to take care of weddings and the alike (la Torre de Can Roca, if I remember well), which helps them in the investments they make in el Celler.
For those who love wine, Can Roca's wine list is a temptation, and Josep Roca, a very knowledgeable person.
What I recall about the food, is a very well executed technique, with an interesting use of fruits in many dishes (sorry, but I'd need the menu to elaborate more on that).
And now, the desserts. Some of them have gained lots of appreciation here in Spain. One is the "Trip to Havana", which I haven't tasted, but I understand that is made of chocolate and a cigar plays some part in it, being even recreated in shape.
Another whole dessert category, is based on decomposing the flavours of perfumes, and reconstructing them using, well, food. Trésor and Miracle from Lancôme, Eternity from Calvin Klein, Polo from Laurent, ... . They give you a small sample of the perfume to compare and play with the dish. The result, from a reproduction perspective, is amazing. Not being a fan of perfumes myself, I wasn't fully convinced of the results from the tasting point of view.
And, one of the desserts that has amazed me the most, anarchy. Here, Jordi takes the usual elements of desserts (creams, vanilla and other spices, fruits), other not so usual (herbs and spices not always used in desserts) and combines them with every technique imaginable in small portions, that you see in the picture. Those portions, by themselves, will surprise you. But the idea is that as you eat them, there's no way to avoid being mixed among themselves, resulting in new combinations, almost unique to every person since they depend on the order you chose to start eating.
And that was it. Well, at least, by now.
PedroEspinosa (aka pedro)