17 replies to this topic

[boulak]

I am planning a weeklong trip to Paris to seek out boulangeries of the highest quality. This is for baguettes, levain, vienoisserie, etc. Undoubtedly I will visit a few pastry shops, but this trip is about traditional, artisinal bread. Of course I have plans to visit Ganachaud, Maison Keyser, and Poilane and I am using "Cherchez Le Pain" as my primary resource, but I am seeking personal input from the eGullet membership. My goal is to visit no less than 50 bread bakeries. I have been to the ones mentioned above, and they definitely merit many more visits, but I want to see and taste more. Again, this pertains to Paris only. Thank you.

[nightscotsman]

I was mostly interested in pastry when I was in Paris, but you might want to check out Patricia Wells' Food Lover's Guide to Paris for more recommendations. It hasn't been updated for a few years, but I'm sure the good places are still there.

[Redsugar]

Drawing from the literature I have on this subject, I've assembled this mini-directory to help facilitate the essentials of your Parisian itinerary. (Naturally, you'll supply a full-colour report to this forum upon your return? Enjoy!)

You may benefit appreciably by referring to a copy of Boulangerie: A Pocket Guide to Paris' Famous Bakeries. (I don't have access to the book; yet it seems authoritative as of a few years ago.)

These are consistently rated as the premier Boulangeries:
Rene-Gerard de St-Ouen (111, boulevard Haussmann, Paris, France 75008)
POILÂNE (8, rue du Cherche-Midi)
L’HERMINE PAUL (114, rue de Patay)
BEAUVALLET JULIEN (6, rue de Poissy)
AU PANETIER LE BON (10, place des Petits-Peres)
POUJAURAN (20, rue Jean Nicot)
GISQUET (64, rue Saint-Dominique)
GOSSELIN (125, rue Saint-Honoré)
St-PHILLIPE (73, avenue Franklin-D-Roosevelt)
MOULIN de la VIERGE (105, rue Vercingetroix)
RENE-GERARD de St-Ouen (111, boulevard Haussmann)
HOULBERT (65, rue des Martyrs)
MODERNE (16, rue des Fossés-Saint-Jacques)
LA POLKA (59, rue d'Orsel)
AU LEVAIN DU MARAIS (32, rue de Turenne)
AU PAIN D’ANTAN (2, rue Eugène Sue)
GANACHAUD (150, rue de Ménilmontant)

Pâtisseries:
SUCRE CACAO (89,Avunue Gambetta)
ARNAUD LARHER (Monmart)
LA PETITE MARQUISE (3, Place Victor-Hugo)
LENÔTRE
LAURENT DUCHENE (2,Rue Wurtz)
LE TRIOMPHE (23,Rue du Rendez-vous)
FAUCHON (26,Place de la Madeleine)
LADURÉE (16,Rue Royale)
PELTIER (66,Rue de Sevres)
CHRISTIAN CONSTANT
GÉRARD MULOT
LA MAISON DU CHOCOLAT
PIERRE HERMÉ (72 rue Bonaparte)
FINKELSZTAJN (27, rue de Rosiers)
JEAN MILLET (103, rue Saint-Dominique)
DALLOYAU (101, rue du Fbg-St-Honoré)
COUDERC (6, boulevard de Voltaire)
PELTIER – Phillipe Conticini (66 rue de Sèvres)
SADAHARU AOKI
(35 rue de Vaugirard)

Edited by Redsugar, 18 October 2004 - 05:27 AM.

[boulak]

Wow! Thanks Redsugar and Nightscotman! Two great answers. Much appreciated. I will be taking tons of photos and would like to post some. The trip is around Thanksgiving, so I'll let you know how it goes.

[Bux]

Don't try to take photographs or ask too many questions at Poujauran. After making my purchase, I lifted my camera and set off a red alert. Did they really think I couldn't just take my purchases outside and photograph them if I was on a mission of industrial espionage.

[Louisa Chu]

boulak - go to the Poilane on rue du Cherche Midi ONLY - that's the one with the oven in the basement - try to get down there to see it. Get the pain Poilane - of course - and the apple tartelettes - but don't let them slip you the overcooked ones - they seemed to be having a problem with these - and the punitions - last week. LOTS of punitions in the dog drawer.

Maison Kayser - on rue Monge ONLY - and make sure to get bread from his bio/organic shop a few doors over. The Baguette Monge and Tarte Monge are the things to get there.

Poujauran - yes, beware les vendeuses but if you speak French try to talk to Jean-Luc Poujauran. He is a very cool guy, serious hands-on baker, and supplies restaurants like Robuchon and L'Astrance right now. His canneles are famous - I have to admit that I don't really care for his canneles - but what are really amazing there are his various little breads - usually about 6 or 7 seasonal fruit and/or nut - his fig and apricot breads are great - when you can get them.

And I don't trust a boulangerie list without Vandermeersch - in the 12th. My boulanger at Ducasse went to work there - and if he thinks it's the best then so it is.

Also the winner of this year's baguette Grand Prix might be of interest - La Fournee d'Augustine - in the 14th.

Not sure where's best for vienoisserie. They're all good but I've been thinking the balance has been off at a lot of places lately - surprisingly. And you probably know this already but for boulangerie novices just make sure to ask for a croissant AU BUERRE.

Please note that Peltier is tragically gone from Paris.

[boulak]

LKL Chu and Bux,
Thank you so much for your replies. Armed with all of the recommendations above and others as well as Cherchez le Pain, my excitement is increasing daily. I was actually able to spend half a day in the back of Maison Kayser during a visit to Europain. It was a remarkable experience. In addition to his bread, I am also fond of his Viennoiserie. Again, thanks so much to you both as well as Redsugar and nightscotsman for taking the time to share this information.

Edited by boulak, 27 October 2004 - 06:16 PM.

[artisanbaker]

http://www.boulevard...eur/ad-pain.htm
http://www.boulangerie.net/meunier/ compagnon
http://www.siteparc....neau/Webcam.htm compagnon
http://www.galloyer.com/indexen.php

i would strongly recommend the julien listed in the first link, not to be confused with the julien listed in a previous post.

thierry meunier is a good one who has not been mentioned.

bring some blister relief if you're going to visit more than 50 bakeries!

[artisanbaker]

s'il vous please boulak, could you spare a few minutes to tell us about your faves?

[boulak]

s'il vous please boulak, could you spare a few minutes to tell us about your faves?

Greetings artisanbaker,
I will make a detailed posting this weekend after I have unpacked the materials and notes from this trip. I also have over 140 digital photos. If I can figure out how to post them, I will include some of the better ones. It was a great trip and I am excited to share it here.

[Wendy DeBord]

Wonderful........just wanted you to know Boulak that Artisanbaker isn't the only one looking forward to your notes. I'm sure we can find help for you if you need it posting photos.

[SethG]

Wonderful........just wanted you to know Boulak that Artisanbaker isn't the only one looking forward to your notes. I'm sure we can find help for you if you need it posting photos.

Oh yeah. Ditto. I can't wait.

[polack]

s'il vous please boulak, could you spare a few minutes to tell us about your faves?

Greetings artisanbaker,
I will make a detailed posting this weekend after I have unpacked the materials and notes from this trip. I also have over 140 digital photos. If I can figure out how to post them, I will include some of the better ones. It was a great trip and I am excited to share it here.

Chop, chop, Boulak I'm anxiously waiting.

[kitwilliams]

Okay, folks, the last post here was seven years ago...updates of Parisian boulangeries and patisseries, s'il vous plait!

I'll be in Paris on Friday, lucky me.

And does anyone know for sure when a la Flute Gana is open? Are they closed both Saturday and Sunday???

Merci beaucoup.

[LindaK]

Geez, just when I've begun to get over my depression from leaving Paris (a few weeks ago), you ask this question.

I don't pretend to have ever done anything like an exhaustive search on this or any previous trip. Basically I sample whatever is nearby wherever I'm staying or wherever I happen to be hanging out and stick with what's best.

The best from this last trip were old favorites in a neighborhood where I've stayed a few times:

Au Levain du Marais
Av Parmentier, 75010

Du Pain et des Idées
Rue Yves Toudic, 75010

Another sentimental favorite, I always stop by if I'm in the 'hood. I know it's a chain but I still like it.

Boulangerie Kayser
Rue Monge, 75005

The best within a short walk from my most recent "home" for my early morning fix. Not in the same league as the others, but if that's where you are, this is where to go:

La Petite Marquise
Place Victor Hugo, 75016

I can't speak from experience about La Flute Gana, but from the annoying website it looks like they're open Mon-Sat: http://www.gana.fr/

[LindaK]

I suppose I should retract my caveat about La Petite Marquise, since their baguette just placed 6th in the GRAND PRIX DE LA BAGUETTE for Paris 2012. The rankings (by name of the boulanger, then boulangerie, if different):

1. Sébastien MAUVIEUX, 159 rue Ordener 75018
2. Raoul MAEDER, 111 bld Haussmann 75008
3 . Alexandre CHAUVIN, boulangerie AUDOU, 10 rue de Chanzy 75011
4. Dominique ANRACT, 110 rue de la Tour 75116
5. Arnaud DELMONTEL, 39 rue des Martyrs 75009
6. Narcisse PASQUIER, David PASQUEREAU, la Petite Marquise, 3 place Victor Hugo 75116
7. Guillaume DELCOURT, 100 rue Boileau 75016
8. Eran MAYER, 100 rue du Théâtre 75015
9. Benjamin TURQUIER, 134 rue de Turenne 75003
10. Ludovic JEANNETTE, les Saveurs de Wagram, 169 avenue de Wagram 75017

Full info (in French):
http://www.boulanger...GUETTE 2012.pdf
http://www.boulanger...ts_concours.asp

[kitwilliams]

Geez, just when I've begun to get over my depression from leaving Paris (a few weeks ago), you ask this question.

I can't speak from experience about La Flute Gana, but from the annoying website it looks like they're open Mon-Sat: http://www.gana.fr/

So sorry to cause you to endure a longer period of PPD (Post Paris Depression), Linda, but thank you for your help.

La Flute Gana (I agree: truly annoying website!) was a nice morning walk in the 20th, from our fun stay at Mama Shelter, up Rue des Pyrenees. Never enough time when in line to take in everything and make up your mind by the time someone greets you with a "bonjour madame"! Loved this boulangerie, sad they weren't open Sunday as well. The Kouign Amann, although not traditional in shape or in its shimmering lightness, was glorious and, literally, glistened in the morning sunshine with the butter and sugar. I'll dream about it for some time to come and will start working on duplicating it asap!

[LindaK]

Kit, that sounds like it's worth a detour. If you can get your hands on a copy of Linda Dannenberg's Paris Boulangerie Patisserie--stories and recipes of some of Paris's best--there's a lovely piece on Ganachaud, the boulangerie of Bernard Ganachaud, father of the women who run La Flute Gana and where the recipe for the "flute" was created. It's a great book, guaranteed to provoke PPD, but their particular story stands out.

BTW, I like to think of PPD as the incentive for the next trip!