3 replies to this topic

[richards1052]

A few yrs. ago while flying on a plane, I read Ms. Sheraton's Food & Wine article about the tilt in Zagat guides toward French restaurants. YOu note that in many if not all city guides, Zagat tends to rate the local French restaurant as best. When I first read the article, I thought it was close to a revelation. I'd never quite thought of the guides as having a prejudice or tilt, but indeed they do.

Look at our local scene here in Seattle where Rover's (French) is consistently rated best. What is pernicious about this prejudice is that great non-French restaurants are relegated to lower categories when they deserve consideration for the top spot.

I wonder if Mimi might have anything to add on this subject since she wrote the article a few yrs. ago & she might have additional thoughts on the subject.

[Mimi Sheraton]

Taking Zagat at its word (!), it would be the respondents who have the tilt toward France, not the guide. I believe that respondents react to ratings of local critics who do seem to tilt toward France at the fancy level. I do not automatically award any points to a restaurant just because it is French, but I think many critics do.

[Bux]

I do not automatically award any points to a restaurant just because it is French, but I think many critics do.

I think you're right, at least as far as we're seen, but do you think that's changing? Haute cuisine seems to be becoming an international style. Also with the rise of Spain as a gastronomic destination and influence, do you sense that France is losing it's grip on the public and the critics' perception of excellence? Are chefs such as Keller and Trotter perceived as anomalies, as close enough in style to count as French or a potential new wave?

[Mimi Sheraton]

Reports of the death of French cuisine (and also, by the way of Frenc Couture)are highly exaggerated. I believe that the next big wave will be French bistro and many traditional dishes perhaps modernizes, as much as that disconcerts me - the modernizing I mean. Matio Batali agrees with me. In the past 6 months alone, two typical Fr. bistros have opened up on 14th St. between 8th & 9th Avenues in NYC...all on oen block and more are following. I have doubts about the ednurance of the current tilt toward Spain..sounds like hogwash to me, as good as a few of its palces might be..and then those are nodding toward France by competing with France meaning France is still the one to beat...and so with fashion. Having recently returned from Paris where I visited 4 old favorite bistros, I can tell you both the inner and outer me breathed a sigh of relief at eating real food again.