31 replies to this topic

[SobaAddict70]

Coq au vin ranks high up on my list of French comfort food, along with quiche lorraine, pot au feu and ratatouille.

I make it a few ways, sometimes with bacon (lardons), sometimes with ham and sometimes without. Recently, I've discovered that some people also add cognac to the mix.

How do you make yours and what do you like to serve it with?

Soba

[Gifted Gourmet]

excellent article on coq au vin from the Observer UK circa 2001

There is a branch of cookery that says you can mess around with a classic recipe and it won't matter.  Where I am the first to say we should cook to suit ourselves, our intuitions and appetites, I also believe that a classic recipe should be just that, a classic. To mess around with it would be to misunderstand it, to somehow downgrade it.

[Really Nice!]

How do you make yours and what do you like to serve it with?

Soba

I follow the bullet-point instructions from my culinary school methodology class notes.

Coq au Vin — Braising hind quarters (HQ) in red wine sauce. Steps are as follows:
1. Whole HQ from old chicken. Older meats, where the muscle is worked more, are tougher and more flavorful. Therefore, inverse is also true.
2. Keep skin on; sear in clarified butter. If dredging in flour, do so < 1 minute before putting in pan, otherwise flour gets pasty mouthfeel. Flour makes good, dark fond. Bad side is it also makes a cloudy sauce.
3. Remove HQ to landing pan. If cooking too fast – the fond burns before chicken is cooked. If fond starts to burn, add wine to cool pan. Watch fire closely, always adjust heat because medium high heat changes as things are added to the pan or are cooked.
4. Add 8/4/4 Mirepoix (8oz Onion/4oz carrot/4oz celery).
5. Increase heat to high and caramelize mirepoix.
6. Add red wine, burn off alcohol.
7. Add brandy, burn off alcohol.
8. Return HQ to pan.
9. Cover with parchment, foil and lid. Place in 325°F oven until done.
10. Remove HQ to landing pan.
11. Strain sauce over HQ; pushing mirepoix to extract juices.
12. Serve with bacon cracklings (rendered Batonnet bacon), blanched pearl onions, ¼’d mushrooms.

Since this is a rich, somewhat fatty dish I like to serve either a young west bank Bordeaux or a young Cabernet Sauvignon for the tannins to foil the fat. Another angle is a red Burgundy and let the acidity foil the fat.

[carswell]

RN!'s got the basic procedure down pat, though I usually add a chopped garlic clove with the mirepoix and a bouquet garni with the wine. Also, I always finish it on the stove, never in the oven. And I tend to like the denser sauce that flouring the bird provides. Lastly, I often garnish with chopped parsley.

A few things to bear in mind.

First, it's coq au vin, not poulet au vin. As originally conceived, the recipe is for a tough old rooster that's reached the end of its productive life. Whence the long cooking in an acidic solution (tenderizes the meat) with added fat in the form of butter and bacon/salt pork (moistens the meat). That said, the couple of times I've made it with rooster, I wasn't enamoured with the results. The meat was tough, stringy and dry. Much the same thing happens to the breast meat from chicken if it's cooked as long as the legs, thighs, wings and backs. So, when preparing the dish with the parts of a whole chicken, I usually remove the breasts after browning and return them to the pot 20 minutes before the end. As often as not, I make the dish only with legs and thighs.

Second, although everybody sees red when they think of coq au vin, it is also made with white wine. Coq au riesling is a treat. Coq au vin jaune is one of the glories of the Jura, where the mushrooms are invariably morels and the sauce usually includes cream.

Third, the better the wine, the better the dish. In an ideal world, a bottle of Chambertin for the pot and one for the table, is more or less how Hugh Johnson put it. Lacking the funds for Chambertin, I usually turn to a not overly tannic, medium weight red like a generic Burgundy, a Beaujolais or a gamay or blend from the Loire. For coq au riesling, Alsace. Coq au vin jaune is a problem, as a decent bottle of yellow wine costs upwards of $50, but a friend and I have hit on a credible workaround: a blend of 2/3 inexpensive savagnin and 1/3 fino sherry. At the table, I pour the same wine used in cooking or a slightly better bottle.

what do you like to serve it with?

By itself, usually, though with plenty of good bread to sop up the sauce. Egg noodles are not to be sneezed at either.

[Jinmyo]

I agree that using a white wine gives a great result.

[formerly grueldelux]

Maybe add a little splash of wine near the end to liven things up? Maybe incorporate a minced anchovy to add a subtle savory twist (and irritate traditionalists?)

[SobaAddict70]

In the boeuf bourguignon thread, someone compares boeuf bourguignon to coq au vin, only with beef instead of chicken.

Except that coq au vin is just as orgasmic and a universe unto itself. Coq au vin has the potential to convert lovers of (skinless boneless) chicken breasts to the joys of dark meat: chicken thighs, backs and legs.

Julia's classic recipe calls for lardons, a frying chicken, cognac, white onion, a good red wine such as burgundy or a pinot noir, chicken stock, garlic, mushrooms, flour and tomato paste.

Of course there are innumerable variations out there ranging from new potatoes to chardonnay to one version made with margarine and green onions.

'Tis the season of comfort food...how do you make yours?

Soba

[pam claughton]

Coq au vin has the potential to convert lovers of (skinless boneless) chicken breasts to the joys of dark meat:  chicken thighs, backs and legs.

'Tis the season of comfort food...how do you make yours?

Soba

Actually, I just don't love dark meat, so I've been making a really delicious version of this using boneless chicken, cut into chunks, floured, browned, and cooked with white wine instead of red. It works!

Pam

[EdS]

I've always made poulet au vin rouge with either a California zinfandel or Beaujolais, being careful to keep the cooking time down to minimize the chance of drying out the young chicken. I've been pleased with the results.

Besides authenticity, does using a rooster contribute anything significant to this dish? I can't say that I've had a proper coq au vin. Rooster sounds like winged mutton to me.

[bakezoid]

In the boeuf bourguignon thread, someone compares boeuf bourguignon to coq au vin, only with beef instead of chicken.   

Except that coq au vin is just as orgasmic and a universe unto itself.  Coq au vin has the potential to convert lovers of (skinless boneless) chicken breasts to the joys of dark meat:  chicken thighs, backs and legs.

Julia's classic recipe calls for lardons, a frying chicken, cognac, white onion, a good red wine such as burgundy or a pinot noir, chicken stock, garlic, mushrooms, flour and tomato paste. 

Of course there are innumerable variations out there ranging from new potatoes to chardonnay    to one version made with margarine  and green onions.

'Tis the season of comfort food...how do you make yours?

Soba

Was never interested in eating or cooking it (ew...dark meat) until I tasted my husband's at Bistro Martinique in New Orleans. WOW! I cooked it last weekend using Molly Stevens' recipe from All About Braising. I sprang for an organic free-range D'artagnan chicken which was well worth it. My 17-year-old son doesn't like mushrooms (the last food he doesn't yet like; he'll get there) so I left the cremini mushrooms on the side. Used a cheap Pinot Noir. Wonderful Sunday night meal.

[Adam Balic]

I have had a good version using white wine, while staying in Macon. I guess that in this instance the cocks blood is used. I wonder how many people use the cocks blood even in very traditional regions?

[bleachboy]

Capon is wonderful as coq au vin.

[Ben Hong]

If some of you are lucky enough to live in or in close proximity to a "rural" area, there are always a few people who raise their own "organic" chickens, ie: buy the chicks and feed them over the summer for slaughter in the fall, after a short life of scratching in the dirt (free range ) You might want to go in on the deal and have them raise a few for you. That way you can dictate the age of slaughter and choice of feed.

Most of the supermarket chickens are slaughtered way to early, eg: 6-7 weeks for a fryer, 8-10 weeks for a roaster, etc., in response to pitiful public obsession with and demand for more tenderness. The result is a chicken with too young, mushy, meat, with no depth of flavour. (some of the new immigrants to come from China complain that our chicken has no flavour) To my thinking, the only half way decent way to treat these fledgelings is to use them for fried chicken.

When making a stewed or braised chicken dish, you need a bird with some substance and firmness, eg: a mature capon, an over-the-hill cock, or even old biddies retired from the egg production lines. Once in a while some of our local supermarkets get in a supply of "stewing hens" because the local Acadians use them to make "chicken fricot". When I see them, I will pick up a dozen or two at $1. apiece to freeze for stocks and stews. A mature bird is a lot more forgiving in the cooking process, and will taste a lot better.

[Priscilla]

Several years ago I had the pleasure of preparing Coq au Vin with a freshly killed coq, who was just about the age Richard Olney specifies for the dish -- 9 months, perhaps? We had a little of the blood to add, but not enough to coagulate the whole of the sauce. This rooster was going to get it one way or another because he made himself a serious nuisance to the other chickens in his flock, as well as his mistress of the house.

[chefzadi]

Marinate the chicken in red win the night before you make the dish for more flavor and to tenderize the meat. It's great make ahead dish because it tastes better reheated.

[FistFullaRoux]

With leftovers, if there is any, you can remove the meat from the bone and serve with baked potatoes. Just open the freshly baked potatoes up, and drop the puled meat and some of the sauce in there. You may need to adjust the salt a little, but it's amazing stuff.

[sabg]

Marinate the chicken in red win the night before you make the dish for more flavor and to tenderize the meat. It's great make ahead dish because it tastes better reheated.

do you add anything else to the marinade or just wine?

[snowangel]

Last time I made this, I used an organic stewing hen. And, the market was out of pearl onions, so I used shallots. A bottle of pinot. It was yummy. Just may need to baptize my new 5 qt. LC with a batch of Coq. I do think that an old tough chicken is a better bet.

[LindaK]

A small trick I learned some years ago during a brief stint cooking in France was to blanch the lardons before proceeding with any recipe--coq au vin, salade frisée au lardons, etc. It really does make a difference, especially with American bacon, which tends to be more heavily cured than its French counterpart in my experience. You want it to provide a subtle note in the background, rather than have the other flavors overpowered by the maple/hickory/whatever cured flavor.

[chefzadi]

Marinate the chicken in red win the night before you make the dish for more flavor and to tenderize the meat. It's great make ahead dish because it tastes better reheated.

do you add anything else to the marinade or just wine?

You can add shallots or onions, garlic, some people add celery which I never do, some herbs can nice such as bay leaves, thyme, parsley.

[dahlsk]

I just saw a recent episode of Good Eats and AB had good info on Coq au Vin. Look for it, as it clarified things for me a lot...
dahlsk

[viaChgo]

I just saw a recent episode of Good Eats and AB had good info on Coq au Vin.  Look for it, as it clarified things for me a lot...
dahlsk

I saw this episode last week & made coq au vin this weekend based on AB's recipe. The results were great. I used a Bourgogne Rouge for the wine. It was a little different than when I normally make it. AB did not saute his mirepoix. He just layered the browned chicken in the pot w/ the raw mirepoix, garlic, thyme. I dod not marinate the chicken & mirepoix overnight as he did. That's one step that I always skip in the Coq Au Vin process. To those who marinate...is it a worthwhile step?

[chefzadi]

I didn't watch the episode. But I took a quick look at his recipe and his method on the network's website. They are idiosyncratic. But then again AB is a culinary actor targeting the home cook. So maybe his approach works in that playing field.

In regards to marinading... it deepens the flavor. It's a step that I never omit.

[Peter the eater]

note: This topic was a bit tricky to find. The Search Function needs words of four or more letters, so "Coq au vin" doesn't work. I went to the France: Cooking & Baking forum, searched for "classic chicken" and bingo.

So, t's going to be Coq au Vin for New Year's Eve at the Eater's. I've been watching DVDs of The French Chef television series from 1962 and beyond so it seems like a natural choice to revisit Julia Child and such a notoriously famous dish. I've recently read a dozen recipes and finally settled down with The Silver Palate.

I've prepped the veg, quartered and browned the chicken (a 10 lb. Meat King raised by me) sauteed everything in wine, and left the assembly to mellow in the fridge. This dish really is the poultry version of Boeuf Bourguignonne -- hearty and versatile. Tomorrow it bakes for an hour. . .

Edited by Peter the eater, 30 December 2008 - 08:16 PM.

[Katie Meadow]

Looks very yummy! For many years we had a tradition of Coq au Vin for New Year's Day. It's my absolute favorite thing to do with chicken. This year one guest has a problem with tomatoes and red wine, so we're having roast chicken instead. Tarte Tatin for dessert. Happy new year!

[6ppc]

note: This topic was a bit tricky to find. The Search Function needs words of four or more letters, so "Coq au vin" doesn't work. I went to the France: Cooking & Baking forum, searched for "classic chicken" and bingo.

So, t's going to be Coq au Vin for New Year's Eve at the Eater's. I've been watching DVDs of The French Chef television series from 1962 and beyond so it seems like a natural choice to revisit Julia Child and such a notoriously famous dish. I've recently read a dozen recipes and finally settled down with The Silver Palate.

I've prepped the veg, quartered and browned the chicken (a 10 lb. Meat King raised by me) sauteed everything in wine, and left the assembly to mellow in the fridge. This dish really is the poultry version of Boeuf Bourguignonne -- hearty and versatile. Tomorrow it bakes for an hour. . .

dang that looks good.

[Peter the eater]

Tomorrow it bakes for an hour. . .

Four days later and we still have coq au vin leftovers!

It was good, but I wasn't blown away. Overnighting in the fridge makes for flavorful and tender meat. One should use two smaller birds rather than a big 8 pounder.

I still have a problem cooking with wine. I would rather drink a $15 pinot than pour it on a chicken. And then simmer off the alcohol? One of the recipes called for a cup of cognac. I think not.

The other problem for me is the color -- red wine makes meat look gray and purple. I suspect tomato paste could improve this.

[Baron d'Apcher]

In lieu of rooster, "Poule au Pinard." An older hen's legs halved, marinated in thrifty red wine and aromatics (mirepoix, bay leaf, chili, star anise, peppercorns) for 5 days. The drained legs were browned in lard, followed by the caramelization of said aromatic garnish, tomato purée, splash of vinegar, some flour, the strained wine marinade and such and such. Braised until tender, strained and the liquid augmented by carrots, celery, onion sweated in with smoked pork jowl lardons, blanched potatoes and mushrooms. The delicate vanilla notes of red wine and land based proteins are nothing short of enjoyable.

[Corinna]

I love coq au vin, and recently tried a variation cooked in Gewurztraminer and served over pearl barley. Certainly not the original, but the combination of flavors did work. I think this is a sign of a truly great dish.

[LindaK]

Four days later and we still have coq au vin leftovers!

It was good, but I wasn't blown away. Overnighting in the fridge makes for flavorful and tender meat. One should use two smaller birds rather than a big 8 pounder.

I still have a problem cooking with wine. I would rather drink a $15 pinot than pour it on a chicken. And then simmer off the alcohol? One of the recipes called for a cup of cognac. I think not.

The other problem for me is the color -- red wine makes meat look gray and purple. I suspect tomato paste could improve this.

Richard Olney's description of Coq au Vin in The French Menu Cookbook suggests making some adjustments when cooking with the young birds we're likely to have access to. One is using two smaller birds, as you suggest. Another is replacing half the wine with a gelatinous stock, such as veal stock or a combo of veal and chicken stock.

That last tip might also help with the purple color issue--I've had the same experience. In his cookbook Sauces, James Peterson discusses that when using red wine in a sauce, the proteins in meats and fish reduce the color and astringency of red wine when they are cooked together. Maybe that isn't happening sufficiently in our recipes. Perhaps adding additional stock will give that chemical process a boost.