Edited by Michael Symons, 07 December 2008 - 01:12 PM.
Posted 07 December 2008 - 12:37 AM
Posted 27 April 2009 - 10:22 AM
In many ways, Savoy’s dishes are more sensory experiences than purely gastronomical ones.
Descriptions were short and abstract. Dominated by “signature” dishes, the menu was an assembly of flavors, techniques, and presentations summoned from all corners and dimension of the world.
Though little sank, little sang. Most of what I sampled was more interesting than inspiring.
Dishes seemed to fall into two camps.
I preferred the one that offered boldness and comfort. This included Savoy’s signature “Soupe d’Artichaut a la Truffe Noir,” a velvety thick soup perfumed with black truffles and Parmesan.
The single-best forkful I had at Guy Savoy was the “Volaille de Bresse Confit et Lacquee” that Sylvie ordered for her main course. It was one of the two off-menu specials offered that day.
By the turn of that same coin, Guy Savoy seemed stretched and strained when aiming for subtlety.
My first course, “Bar et Rouget Comme Un ‘Carpaccio,’” is a good example. An opaque glass bowl bore silky slices of sea bass and rouget dotted with tiny dehydrated crayfish tails, and julienne of bamboo shoots. The assembly was dressed with a very light “bouillon d’agrumes” (citrus broth). Effete and delicate, it came across as an unconvincing reach for some Asian puritanical ideal. The flavors here were too ascetic – coy in the wrong ways, too obvious in others.
Is Guy Savoy a Michelin three-star? I’m not qualified to say. I’ve only been once. And I’ll admit that my visit was somewhat atypical, given the attention we received.
I’m not sure that enough of the food at my meal measured up to the three-star standard. Savoy states, “[A] dish may originate from anything, be it a sensation, a memory or a chance meeting. It takes shape through a series of stages, each stages designed to elicit an emotion.” And this was, perhaps, a little too true. At times, it could be highly rewarding - taking one back to one’s childhood, like the pintade. Most of the time, however, it was a bit disorienting - a little too emotional and attention-deficient. It lacked focus and cohesion.
But the food doesn’t seem to be Guy Savoy’s primary concern. He goes for the total effect: “Dining at Guy Savoy means weaving your own personal fine, almost intangible, path between flavours engaged in dialogue with one another… you won’t be sure whether your best memory will be the taste of the langoustines, the touch of the fine linen, the sparkle of the crystal, or a dazzling smile. True character cannot be defined so easily… it can’t be forgotten so easily either.”
This one is not like the others. This one is an haute couture carnivale, replete with pomp and pageantry. For that, I can understand why Guy Savoy has been cherished and adored.
Here is what we had:
Foie Gras “Club Sandwiches”
Soupe de Potiron
La Truffe Blanche
Bar et Rouget Comme Un “Carpaccio“
Coquillages en bouillon d’agrumes.
Coquilles Saint-Jacques “Crues-Cuites“
Pommes de terre et poireaux aux algues.
Escalope de foie de canard poelee, puis etuvee en papillote avece des radis roses.
Supreme de Volaille de Bresse
Foie gras et artichaut, vinaigrette a la truffe.
Canons de Legumes
Champignons et herbes, bouillon ferme et jus de champignons.
Soupe d’Artichaut a la Truffe Noir
Lamelles de truffe noir et copeaux de Parmesan, brioche feuilletee aux champignons et buerre de truffe tartine.
A la graine de legumes.
Volaille de Bresse Confit et Lacquee
Pintade Pochee en Vessie
Riz basmati, jus “truffes-foie gras.” (pour 2 personnes)
Poires et Citrons
En saveurs d’herbes.
Autour de Coing
Petits Fours Trolley
Italian tenor Enrico Caruso (1873-1921)
My flickr account
Posted 19 May 2009 - 01:31 PM
"Quick restaurant recap -- Senderens was nice, but not great. La Table was much better. The lunch menu was the ultimate bargain, 59 euros including wine. And Guy Savoy was great. Without asking we ended up with Hubert. Hubert turned our three course menu into five or six courses by splitting each of the courses for us. The food was almost too perfect to eat. And the desserts were amazing, I think we had four or five courses of desserts; we had to force them to stop bringing more. All of the staff, including Guy himself, could not have been nicer. With the wine, our 100 euro prix fixe ended up as a 390 euro check. But's who's counting..."
So that's two thumbs up from this family on Guy Savoy . Robyn
Posted 06 December 2009 - 10:09 AM
Posted 03 June 2010 - 06:41 AM
Food (and wine) - 94/100
Guy Savoy (GS) is a talented and highly skilled chef. It can easily be seen from his dishes; while a bit similar to Alleno’s dishes – both are technically stunning, but GS’ creations somehow are not that delicious (it’s still good/tasty, but not something memorable or satisfy my palate & other senses). I’ve checked his menu 2-3 times each season since ‘06, and it seems that his dishes are trapped with time aka never changes, especially the tasting menu. And it’s indeed the case; nevertheless they have wonderful presentations and plating. Some of the highlights of my dinner are,
- I thought the turbot prepared two ways are excellent – poached rib of turbot served dry and in soup. The fish is tender, but a bit lacking of inherent flavor in itself. The sauce helped a bit, but a very light. Oh, many good autumn’s mushrooms
- The best dish is probably colors of caviar. Beautiful preparations divided into several layers including green bean puree, hot sabayon and caviar cream. One can see Savoy’s play with textures, flavors and temperatures. This is about as good as Robuchon’s famous cauliflower cream with caviar dish
- Another dish that’s spot on will be a pure and tender sweetbread (again light in taste) served with potato, foie gras and black truffle. If only it had been ‘crispier and sweeter’, it would have been a perfect dish
Other dishes I sampled are,
- Of course, the legendary artichoke soup. However, the best part of it for me it’s not in the soup itself – more on the fragrant smells of parmesan and the truffle. The hot brioche with truffle butter was indeed fantastic, but the soup itself (that should be the strength) is only ok for me
- The radish foie gras is probably a perfect example of a dish perfectly executed (the liver was not greasy at all) but not that delicious. The liver was a bit weak, and the radish does not help much either. Nothing really wrong, but nothing very right either
- Desserts: the grapefruit with earl grey sauce and biscuit is simple and nice while the more complicated ‘all black’ is just hard to swallow with so many things in it (almond paste, lime juice, black pepper etc.)
You’re welcome to see more on the pictures link below. As I went home after this meal, I think I kinda know what “bothered me” about the food (I guess I had high expectation on him): flavors. The main ingredients of the dishes are not delicious by themselves (lack seasoning/infusion or not so great raw materials which’re rather unlikely); then come the famous part of French cuisine – the sauce/the juice is weak compared to other French top-level chefs, as if they’re somewhat ‘watery’ or diluted with something else
I don’t know how to describe it any further. Probably, if you have eaten dishes prepared by Passard, Roellinger or Gagnaire then you will understand what I’m talking about. Regardless of that, it’s still better than Bocuse, Piege’s Ambassadeurs or Pont de Brent. It’s 94/100 (2 ½* in my note)
Service (and ambiance) - 96/10
Unlike the food, when it comes to service and overall dining experience, Guy Savoy is among the world’s best. The dining room is divided into a few different sections. The style is modern and rather minimalist with high ceiling and dark African woods act as partitions. Among fine dining places, the atmosphere was very joyful to the point of noisy as nearly everybody enjoyed the meal and had a good time here. As often mentioned by many, monsieur Hubert, the famous maitre d’, handled my table at the beginning. As the meal progressed, I was served by another young French gentleman whom was equally as good as Mr. Hubert. The restaurant was flexible with the menu and even my captain offered me to taste the whole desserts if I wanted to. It was a tempting offer … only until 10-course later did I realize that 2 desserts plus petit four trolleys were all I could take.
The restaurant was full-house even though it’s only Tuesday. Located in the narrow street of Rue Troyon, GS is pretty much the only attraction that could jam the road. Guy Savoy himself diligently walked around and visited his guests to show French hospitality at its best as well as the statement that as the chef and the owner, he also bothers to entertain his clients. Having a meal here is more than good food; GS will try to participate in each and every client’s happiness and celebration. They try to enhance the defining moments you have that brought you to this place whether it’s wedding anniversary, closing sales deal or as simple as having gastronomy experience. It’s the place where you will see human at its best – in line with the chef’s belief that restaurant is the most civilized place on earth. Overall, I bestowed 94.5 (slightly above 2 ½*) for my experience here. Did I regret it? No; will I return? Perhaps, but it won’t be in my top 5 Paris dining destinations
Here are the pictures - Guy Savoy Autumn '08
Posted 03 October 2010 - 07:23 AM
“Ice-poached Lobster” - A bit gimmicky, but tasty:
Chef Savoy's "Colours of Caviar". Caviar cream at the bottom blanketed with a layer of green bean purée and Osetra caviar.
Oysters from Bresse Chicken in truffle and morel jus with asparagus. Bresse, the area considered to produce the finest chicken. "Oyster", regarded as the best part of a chicken (the tiny round piece of dark meat on the back near the thigh). And needless to say, black truffle, "the diamond of French kitchen".
Artichoke and Black Truffle Soup with parmesan shavings.
Accompanied the soup was this warm buttery mouth-watering wild mushroom brioche with a truffle spread! Glad that we saved room for it!
The full 10+ courses menu was €360, probably one of the most expensive in the world but definitely worth a try.
See HERE for photos/videos of the full meal.