Hey, MMerrill! Are you a difficult customer or what? :)
Being so assiduous and smart - and that Portuguese son-in-law keeps me law-abiding, no mistake! - here are some suggestions, all duly tried and retried, where you should mention my name as your friend. (Nobody else try this - two strangers already have - because, if you're not on the list, they have orders to treat you like scum. Still very good - but not the best. ;)
This time I think you should investigate the following places (Bux would kill me if I suggested you e-mail me for those which cannot be publicly announced):
For a great "bacalhau assado" (an enormous "posta" of grilled salt cod, surrounded by hand-smashed roast potatoes in a classic olive oil and garlic sauce) in a healthy, pleasant proletarian setting, at ridiculously low prices, go to Marítima de Xabregas (tel: 218-682-235). The food there is all good but the "bacalhau" is exceptional, as are the gigantic racket-sized veal chops.
For autumnal (fally?) home-made food made by a great cook in an enchanting little restaurant in Campo de Ourique, you should try Tasquinha da Adelaide. Be sure to book first, as it's small and very popular. It's moderately expensive but great value. I suggest whatever the cook suggests. Anything made in the oven is sublime.
For the experience of a no-frills, absolutely pared down luncheon experience (very cheap), you should try one of the market restaurants. I suggest the one in the Mercado do Lumiar. Go at midday or twelve-thirty at the latest. Great fish and traditional dishes.
On the opposite side, for a treat, be sure to make the trip to Guincho where the best seafood restaurant around Lisbon is: Porto de Santa Maria (21-487-9450). Ask for the manager, Senhor Galveias. Lovely service; view; everything.
Again in Guincho, for the best fried Dover sole (I've mentioned it before and Rogelio reported brilliantly on it) is João Padeiro (21 487 1007).
A little away from Guincho (but nearer on the A5 from Lisbon) is a very typical Sunday ranch, called Farta-Pão. It's hidden away near Malveira da Serra and there are always long lines but, if you arrive around midday or after two-thirty, you should be OK. Here what you want is the magnificent "cozido à portuguesa" which you will compare to the Castilian, Galician, Austrian and Italian versions of boiled meats and vegetables and most probably conclude that this is *cough* so much better. Don't forget to ask for the "caldo" (the broth) beforehand. The bread is legendary.
A great Alentejan restaurant in Lisbon, where the cook, Dona Gertrudes, is 80 years old and has written a seminal book, is Galito. It's near the Estrada da Luz; her son is called Senhor Henrique but I'm not going to say more.
In Estoril, for a marvellous Chinese restaurant which operates at a loss just because the owner, billionaire Stanley Ho, needs a place to receive his business partners and guests, go to Mandarim in the Estoril Casino. The cooks and the cooking are exquisitely Chinese and the prices, for such luxury, are paltry.
If you'd like to try a rustic fisherman-and-son restaurant (the father fishes every night; the son serves) with pristine fish and a lovely setting, try to find Bataréu in Setúbal, which is a secret. It's near the ferry and is only open for lunch but that's all I'm saying. After all, you did deduct the way to the most-difficult Solar dos Leitões (to which you should return, for an ever better meal), so I'm not prepared to make it easy for you.
I hope this helps and that you all enjoy yourselves!
Miguel and Maria João
Edited by MiguelCardoso, 01 November 2004 - 09:45 PM.