Given the praise lavished on these syrahs, the Dining section's tasting panel may be forgiven for having looked forward to this sampling of 23 bottles.
At best, though, the collective attitude of the three regular panelists, Amanda Hesser, Eric Asimov and me, and our guest, Richard Luftig, the wine director of Washington Park restaurant in Greenwich Village, was one of restrained enthusiasm if not disappointment.
We found highly likable wines, yes, but too often we came across uninteresting ones of little character, with flavors cobbled from the winemaker's bag of tricks rather than from the syrah grape. During the tasting, I noted that the range of these syrahs was from A to D. I wasn't alone in thinking that these syrahs should have had more guts.
What sayeth you?