DIGEST: Boston Globe Food Section
Posted 12 March 2003 - 12:11 PM
Boston Globe – March 12, 2003
Much to my surprise, a book review of “The Amazing World of Rice” turned out to be the best read of today’s food section.
Mussels and cockles and more: The Irish offer their famous hospitality (Alison Arnett)
--Feature story about the slew of Irish pubs in the Boston area, ranging from the traditional to more offbeat Irish-owned restaurants and bars offering Spanish tapas, Cuban sandwiches, risotto or other fare atypical to Irish pubs. “What it is about the Irish that makes them such natural restaurateurs?”
Mussels and cockles and more
It's easy to make souffles rise and shine (Andrea Pyenson)
--Interesting & practical article about the art, science, and history of soufflés.
“Golden brown and puffed up over their collars, souffles emerge from the oven like miniature chefs' hats. ..
Yet for all the accolades they draw, souffles are somewhat misunderstood. They are admired by diners as the epitome of culinary elegance, but many home cooks are afraid of them, thinking they're too fragile to attempt. That's one reason souffles have been popular on restaurant menus.”
BOOK REVIEW: Not all rice is Asian, not all Asian cuisines use rice (T. Susan Chang)
An extremely well-written review of “The Amazing World of Rice” by Marie Simmons. Chang is alternately self-deprecating and fun to read. She confesses that she hadn’t realized that not all Asian cooking uses rice (a fact I had not realized either). Clearly she spent a good deal of time cooking from this cookbook – something surprisingly few cookbook critics do, at least not this thoroughly. I wish more did. I especially enjoy her account of trying to cook tempura from the book: “Late that evening, covered in batter, I finally sampled my first homemade tempura -- crisp, light, delicately dipped in the gingered sauce -- and practically swooned, one happy cook in need of a shower.”
Not all rice is Asian
Also two columns about wine – personally I’m not a fan of wine or wine writing, but here are the links for those who may be:
ON WINE: The buzz on Bordeaux is value (Stephen Meuse)
THE GRAPEVINE: BU seminars offer European perspectives (Stephen Meuse)
Posted 12 March 2003 - 02:20 PM
Thank you for the nice annotations.
(By the way, the only souffle misunderstanding this diner has is why they are on any menu except for French restaurants that time forgot.)
Pastry chef-Restaurant Consultant
Oyamel : Zaytinya : Cafe Atlantico : Jaleo
Posted 12 March 2003 - 02:49 PM
Thank you for the feedback. I'll be honest & admit that no, I do not know the Globe well enough to give a run-down on all the editors/writers. I'm a frequent traveller to Boston & an avid Globe reader -- avid enough to know that "Correspondent" is a euphemism for free-lance contributor -- but that's about it.
Can anyone out there provide more information?
Posted 19 March 2003 - 09:55 AM
OK, this is where I get to editorialize:
1. The best article in Boston Globe this week is on raising chickens. Caught me by surprise. It’s only tangentially about the cooking & eating of said chickens, but it’s still a fun read.
2. What intrigued me most was not an article but an ad for ‘Edible Art 2003.’ I’ve read about these in the Chicago area too. I’ve meant to write an article about Art as Food (as opposed to the usual --Food as Art) for some time now….Would love to hear from anyone who’s ever attended one of these exhibits? http://www.lesley.ed...eart/index.html
Here chickie, chickie, chickie ... Pull off a coup by raising your own chickens (B.J. Roche)
A surprisingly delightful read on the dangers of living in a chickencentric universe. An excerpt:
‘We had ordered six chicks from the hatchery, but seven birds, including a free bonus ''Mystery Bird,'' arrived in the mail late last spring. They all looked the same at first. But soon our Mystery Bird emerged as a silver-spangled Hamburg rooster, a jaunty little fellow with black and white tailfeathers, who looked like something you'd see painted on a plate in a Williams-Sonoma catalog.
We named him Oddball, and all was right with the world. That was, until another chick - this one a slightly aggressive Buff Orpington - doubled in size (seemingly overnight), and began to crow. Now we had two roosters.
We started getting up very early. My friend and chicken guru Pat Leuchtman, who lives in Heath, had three words for me when I told her about our dilemma. ''Coq au vin.''’
A bit of what Oscar brings to the table (Beverly Levitt)
“In the movies food is never just food.” Article dissecting the use of food in 2002 movies including Chicago, The Pianist, Adaptation, etc. Anyone remember Babette’s Feast? Includes a recipe for “Pozole verde” (a reference to Frida Kahlo).
STIRRINGS: The battle of the buttercream rose (T. Susan Chang)
About the writer’s infatuation with, and struggle to create buttercream roses. Also kind of a roundabout review of the “Cupcake Café Cookbook.”
"One night I dreamed of buttercream..."
The ever-dependable pot roast: Homey meal suits all tastes (Sarah Hearn)
Spring is around the corner, and accordingly, the Boston Globe is dedicating space to health & fitness:
Getting Fit: Spring is just around the corner (Alison Arnett)
Spa cooking can streamline your diet (Lisa Zwirn)
“Welcome to spa cuisine, where prune puree replaces sugar, egg whites stand in for yolks or whole eggs, and vegetable purees (along with minuscule portions of monounsaturated fats) pretend they're butter.”
The best diets will kick your metabolism into high gear (Bev Bennett)
Glass Notes: Pinot Grigios are all over the map
Edited by Fat Guy, 29 July 2003 - 07:22 PM.
Posted 26 March 2003 - 10:51 AM
Pour it on! (T. Susan Chang)
About the rising organic maple syrup tapping movement in New England According to John Cleary of the Northeast Organic Farming Association in Vermont, organic applications on the part of maple producers doubled this year.
Hmmm, wasn’t there a recent e-Gullet discussion string on maple sugaring season?
BEANTOWN CLICK: organic maple syrup
Dried fruits keep the chilly season sunny (Lisa Zwirn)
A bounty of regal recipes uses apricots, dates, and raisins
Everything you wanted to know about dried fruit but were afraid to ask. Focuses on the use of dried fruit in the cuisines of the Mediterranean, Middle East, and North Africa. Recipes include Lamb tagine with prunes and Persian chicken with orange.
Keep the chilly season sunny
Natural pesticides in wine keep fruit healthy (Stephen Meuse)
The polyphenol abundant in red wine that is believed to play a key role in delaying the onset of coronary heart disease -- is also effective in preventing post-harvest rot in grapes and other fruits.
Highlight: Sean Shesgreen, professor of English at Northern Illinois University in DeKalb, Ill., has gone public with his ruminations. His article, ''Wet Dogs and Gushing Oranges: Winespeak for a New Millennium,'' published in the March 7 ''Chronicle of Higher Education,'' is causing a bemused stir.
Author’s endnote: “As a writer, we found Shesgreen unpretentious but decidedly pungent, with an incisively wry edge and hints of fresh-cut irony.”
Unpretentious but pungent
COUNTER INTELLIGENCE: With Zoo Sticks, a rhino is perfect for sushi rice [/COLOR](T. Susan Chang)
Quickie about a toy maker that has created chopsticks with molded plastic animal shapes at the top – giraffe, rhinoceros, lion, monkey. Personally, I’m dying for a pair!!!
Rhino sticks click
Chefs take the stage at 'Banned in Boston' benefit (Alison Arnett)
''Banned in Boston 2003,'' a benefit for the violence prevention program Urban Improv, will feature chefs in acting roles. Oh dear…
Chefs take the stage
Granola maker has recipe for success (Denise Dube)
Profile of the Milford-based maker of Goddess Granola.
Granola maker has recipe
In this kitchen, inches count: Small details make these cooks happy (By Andrea Pyenson)
“Tthe first in a series on renovated home kitchens designed for people who really cook.”
In this kitchen, inches count
Edited by Fat Guy, 29 July 2003 - 07:23 PM.
Posted 03 April 2003 - 02:19 PM
Best of Boston:
First daughter Claudine gets married, and now this…
His life in the kitchen Jacques Pepin cooks, paints, teaches, writes, and reminisces
(By Alison Arnett, Globe Staff)
Maman's cheese souffle
Roast leg of lamb Provencale
A birthday cake like grandma used to makeBy Gabriella Gershenson, Globe Correspondent
“When my mother brought me home from Memorial Hospital, a fresh krendel, baked by Babulinka, was waiting for us.
The cake isn't what an American child might imagine for a birthday cake. After all, it has no frosting, no layers, and no candles. Krendel (pronounced kryen-dzel) is low and yeasty with a streusel topping, more like coffee cake or a babka than a Duncan-Hinesian creation.”
CAKE RECIPE: Gurevich family krendel
Officer does justice to gourmet cooking: John Sisco has made his home into a restaurant
By Deniece Washington, Globe Correspondent
“He is stirring big pots of food on the stove, rushing them to the table, and serving friends, family, and colleagues. Sisco runs a restaurant at his home in Hyde Park that has little in common with ordinary restaurants: There is no charge.”
With self-checkout, it's life in the fast lane
Shopping against the clock
Chef to show wine-seafood pairings
By Stephen Meuse, Globe Correspondent
McDonald's hopes fruit, pasta options boost health,sales
By David L. Harris, Globe Correspondent
Posted 04 April 2003 - 11:28 AM
Hmm, is anyone from the "I wanna be a food writer" thread reading this???
Posted 09 April 2003 - 06:46 AM
Lakota Bakery's cookies make everyone happy. By Galen Moore
“…For almost 20 years Barbara Weniger has been using all her ingenuity as a baker to produce cookies that contain as much butter as possible. To develop one recipe for chocolate wafers, Weniger began with a decent recipe, then just kept going. As she explains it, 'halve the sugar and double the butter and see what happens. Then I just started adding more and more chocolate.'”
What a wonderful concept! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Asking for a little respect, please A chef's wife does all the work and sees no glory
Descriptive profile of Courtney Febbroriello, author of ''Wife of the Chef: The True Story of a Restaurant and a Romance.'' Includes recipe for Potato-chive gnocchi.
Tamil New Year is a time of ritual and repast
Tamils are a people from the deep south of India. This article is a personal essay that reflects on childhood memories of the holiday, and the sumptuous lunch that includes delicacies such as a sweet, hot rice called paal payasam and mor kozhambu, a hot buttermilk gravy, with tomato rasam, tomatoes cooked with tamarind. Includes recipes for tomato rasam and mor kozhambu.
The hottest, hippest spot: Once run-down, Park Square is now a thriving restaurant row
Restaurants mentioned include Todd English’s Bonfire, Davio’s, and Via Matta.
An Easter bunny worth believing in
THE VEGETARIAN COOK: Passover cookbook makes it easy to pass on meat
Kosher wines aren't different from all other wines
In granola, Matzo rises to the occasion
Posted 16 April 2003 - 09:01 AM
Brookline-based Beacon Common Press, which publishes Cook's Illustrated magazine, took away two prizes at the International Association of Culinary Professionals annual conference.
Full list of The 2003 International Association of Culinary Professionals award winners.
Market growth: Once a farm stand, Russo's has become a full-service store
“Tonight, Passover begins with its traditional Seder, calling on parsley, horseradish, and the mixture of fresh and dried fruit called charoset. Next Sunday's Easter celebration means asparagus, potatoes, spinach, and strawberries.For some, like Michael A. ''Tony'' and Olgo A. Russo Jr., Easter means bitter greens.The brothers own A. Russo & Sons, a third-generation company and one of New England's top produce and specialty foods purveyors.”
Wine, dine with Rosenblum Cellars CEO
Hosting a Passover week food marathon, from Seders to leftovers
Company’s coming: Roast whole leg of lamb over potatoes and onions
The Vegetarian Cook: Pasta with springtime sauce
Book Review: Once Upon A Tart
Includes a recipe for Baked lemon tart
Posted 23 April 2003 - 06:14 AM
Home, Sweet Home
In these uncertain times, staying in to cook and entertain is gaining popularity.
(how many times has this story been written during the last two years?) Includes some suitably homey recipes:
Macaroni & cheese
Roast striped bass with tomatoes and olives
Wild mushroom risotto with hazelnuts
Thai red curry with tofu and mango
So dark, so rich, so totally divine (By Lisa Yockelson) “A chocolate batter that bakes into tender, flavorful layers is first the result of juggling a medley of ingredients, and second, a matter of technique.”
The recipe: Deluxe chocolate layer cake -- “inspired by a buttermilk chocolate layer cake my late mother contributed to grade-school bake sales.”
Lamb helps make the leap into spring :At Evoo, tender braised meat marks the new season
Balsamic-braised lamb shoulder
It's hard for a girl to ignore a chocolate bar, but one that has ''It's not for girls'' emblazoned across its wrapper is just screaming out for a female to gobble it down.
Nestle UK's Yorkie bar has been marketed specifically to men since 1976, and last year the company took its chocolate-for-men campaign to a new level.
Posted 30 April 2003 - 04:55 PM
Denmark’s answer to the doughnut
Aebleskiver -- literally ''apple slice'' -- is a pancake puffball that rarely contains the apple tidbit originally tucked into its center as a sweet surprise.
Working together for a perfect brew
After a hiatus of nine years, George Howell, who sold Coffee Connection to Starbucks in 1994, is back in business. This time, the celebrated fanatic is really on a mission: excellence in the cup and fair prices for growers.
“The Melting Pot Cooks”
About a local access show hosted by two Boston-area cooks. The show is filmed in one host’s home kitchen, and features Cuban cooking (though not exclusively).
Good pots and pans come in all shapes and sizes
Recipe: Lentil soup with sausage
Posted 01 May 2003 - 05:54 AM
Tasty Travails - My Blog
My eGullet FoodBog - A Tale of Two Boroughs
Was it you baby...or just a Brilliant Disguise?
Posted 04 May 2003 - 02:20 PM
Posted 04 May 2003 - 02:34 PM
Every year I worked at their festival, where we made aebleskivers in these giant cast iron griddles that handled about 100 at a time. And every year, people who had been to Solvang talked about the terrific aebleskivers during Danish Days.
I still make them often (though not by the hundreds), serving them like they did, with chokecherry syrup and powdered sugar. Some parts of New England do have a number of Danish-Americans, and cast-iron aebleskiver pans are around. Sometimes, instead of a cast iron pan, I use my electric donut hole maker.
The Practical Pantry
Posted 07 May 2003 - 07:09 AM
What is it about the taste that makes so many students reach for Coke instead of coffee first thing in the morning?
The kitchen the Gradys built
The second in a series on renovated home kitchens designed for people who really cook.
Boston’s scene adjusts to the new smoking ban.
Green warrior urges buying locally.
Article focuses on nutritionist Joan Dye Gussow, who advocates eating locally produced food.
According to Gussow, items found in your average meal travel 1,500 miles from farm to table, devouring the world's fuel resources in the process. She often cites the example of the 5-calorie strawberry, which consumes 435 fossil-fuel calories over its flight from New York to California.
Whole Foods Recipe: Grilled Andouille sausage and sweet potato salad
Profile of the Bread & Butter Baking Company
They are currants, actually, not raisins, explains Krystin Rubin, as she slides a blackened baker's paddle almost twice her height into the tall Bongard bread oven. It comes out bearing a raft of currant and walnut danishes, browned and puffed up, huge and flaky.
Go online to explore a world of exotic food
The Vegetarian Chef: Escarole and lemon risotto
Posted 14 May 2003 - 03:02 PM
Reinventing the marshmallow
Making it legal: After 15 years, a new Legal Sea Foods cookbook is on the shelves
Recipe: Sole with lemons and capers
Legal Sea Foods president and CEO Roger Berkowitz says he hates cookbooks. They're too much of a pain to follow, he says.
Marketing strategy: At Montreal's Atwater food market, selling is serious business
These butchers, along with the produce sellers, coffee roasters, and noodle makers, are savvy, old-fashioned merchants who conduct business in French. They're not working here until a better job comes along -- this is what they do and what they're experts in. They're all part of Montreal's local color.
It’s a charmingly descriptive article, and the greenmarket graphic is enough to make me drool. But ummm….why is this in a Boston newspaper again?
Confidence in the kitchen: Cooking coach Alyson Zildjian is at the head of the class
Delicious artichokes are a pleasure to savor
Review of new book on French wine: “The New France” by Mitchell Beazley
Posted 21 May 2003 - 08:09 AM
It must be almost summertime – the first of the BBQ articles has arrived, albeit with a New England bent.
Smoking Success: A barbecue chef goes beyond the basics on the grill, adding flavor without the flames
By Alison Arnett, Globe Staff
Recipe: clambake on the grill
New England really doesn't have the smoking and barbecuing lore of other parts of the country, Fahey says. But what is native is the clambake, and Fahey is enthusiastic about adapting the shore tradition - where shellfish might be buried in seaweed and cooked in a pit over a wood fire - to the backyard. His bake is ''more of a memory than an actual recipe.'' Fahey likes to find a gunnysack - an old rice sack with no dyes on it is a good choice, he says. In it, he'll layer parboiled potatoes and corn on the cob, then clams, then mussels. Sliced Portuguese sausage, or linguica, goes over that; the salt from the sausage will season all the ingredients.
Hunters and gatherers: On the trail of the Morel
By T. Susan Chang, Globe Correspondent
California festival's cookbook stalks some wild asparagus recipes
By T. Susan Chang, Globe Correspondent
“The Asparagus Festival Cookbook” receives a mixed review.
Recipe: Pan-fried asparagus with new season morels
Recipe: Light and fresh asparagus soup
Heaven Sent (A treatise on Angel Food Cake)
By Andrea Pyenson, Globe Correspondent
Recipe: Flo’s Angel Food Cake
Recipe: Lemon Angel Food Cake
On Wine: An American finds success in Burgundy
By Stephen Meuse, Globe Correspondent
Posted 21 May 2003 - 01:28 PM
Posted 28 May 2003 - 10:24 AM
Here's the lowdown on the Boston Globe. An abbrevated version, as I have one foot out the door -- heading up to Boston (surprise, surprise).
Ciao, Peru! Chef Jose Duarte brings Peruvian flair to Italian food at Taranta
By Ann Cortissoz, Globe Staff
He has been hesitant to tell his customers where the extra zing in some of their favorite dishes comes from. ''This is the North End, after all,'' Duarte says. Diners expect Italian. But the response to the dishes has been so positive that now Duarte is ready to confess.
Some may have recognized the calzoncini fritti stuffed with leeks, mozzarella, and peruvian botija olives, or ground meat and onions as empanadas by another name. The spectacular seared tuna served over braised leeks and topped with bomba calabrese (a pepper sauce) gets its kick from Peruvian rocoto-pepper paste. A grilled octopus dish, polpo olivo, is served with black botija, or Alfonso, olives. The menu coyly refers to the luscious sauce on the shrimp and scallop ravioli as ''pesto di Taranta.'' Few would guess that the main ingredient in the lovely, slightly tangy spring-green sauce is a paste made from a flowery herb called huacatay, or Peruvian black mint. And for dessert, a spectacularly rich hazelnut mousse is topped with the Latin caramel sauce known as dulce de leche.
It all began because several members of the kitchen staff at Duarte's inviting, brick-walled restaurant are also Peruvian, and they would reminisce about Peru and the dishes they missed.
Milking the market
By T. Susan Chang, Globe Correspondent
She's written the recipes for romance
By Devra First, Globe Staff
…on Amanda Hesser, the NYT food babe so many of us love to hate, and her new book.
Hood's snacksize treats full of flavor, but not guilt
By Katie Johnston, Globe Staff
Posted 04 June 2003 - 12:53 PM
Fenway Food gets an assist from chef Michael Gueiss
By Erica Noonan, Globe Staff
Gueiss, 39, is responsible for every bite of food consumed at Fenway Park, from the greasiest cheese steak sub gobbled down on the street to the most elegant slice of sashimi nibbled in an exclusive skybox.
It's two hours before game time, and the atmosphere around the ballpark is crackling with excited tension. Police officers stand in a cluster reviewing copies of the city's antiscalping policy, the grills are fired up, and the Red Sox are warming up out on the green.
When Aramark took over the premium catering at Fenway last year, Gueiss brought his reputation for fine-tuning American regional cuisine to Boston. Since his arrival, he's experimented with Cuban sandwiches, cod cakes, Caesar salads, and a wall of rotisserie chicken grills capable of slow-cooking 18 chickens at once.
Bitter greens are gaining fans
Authentic tacos are full of possibility
Posted 11 June 2003 - 06:11 AM
Hot dogs are nothing without it By Letitia Baldwin, Globe Correspondent
J. W. Raye & Co. is one of the world's last working stone mustard mills, producing a line of 16 gourmet mustards varying in flavor and texture from a smooth maple horseradish to a grainy brown ginger. Raye's Down East Schooner Mustard, a classic yellow, and Seadog Beer Mustard, good for dipping pretzels, have won gold medals at the annual Napa Valley Mustard Festival in Calistoga, Calif. The Maine-made condiments have also taken home ribbons from the Texas Fiery Foods Show and other competitions.
A skillet for all seasons By Sheryl Julian, Globe Staff
Cookbook review: ''The Gift of Southern Cooking.''
Luscious and sweet, mangoes are India's summer passion By Jehangir Pocha, Globe Correspondent
When Dad's at the stove
Pop's culture reigns in quite a few kitchens <GROAN...>
By Andrea Pyenson, Globe Correspondent
Posted 11 June 2003 - 06:24 AM
The Boston Globe's piece on what to get a Dad who cooks bears an uncanny resemblance to the condescending stuff that used to pour forth from newspapers in advance of Mother's Day...
Posted 18 June 2003 - 06:08 AM
For Trillin, eating locally is a passion
''I've never done what my family called grown-up food writing,'' says Trillin, whose latest collection of pieces is ''Feeding a Yen: Savoring Local Specialities From Kansas City to Cuzco'' (Random House). Instead of dissecting how a dish is made or critiquing food, Trillin concentrates his reporting skills and a dry wit on the search for Cajun boudin, for instance, or for Ecuadorian ceviche, or for the tiny peppers of Galicia, Spain. Just an excuse to eat, he calls it. But in each search he always finds the passionate people.
''Writing about eating is really another way to write about people,'' says Trillin, who is savoring a bowl of oatmeal in a downtown hotel cafe. ''I love oatmeal,'' he says, but he rarely eats it except in hotels. ''It seems like a hotel dish.''
Cobblers: Make the most of the short-lived strawberry season
Tastes of Saigon in Bangor
Malay cuisine is a spicy mix
Asparagus bread pudding Not my cup of tea, but perhaps someone out there will enjoy this recipe.
Posted 18 June 2003 - 06:18 AM
Posted 26 June 2003 - 08:51 AM
A kitchen renovation can create quite a stir
I am a producer for a national radio show and pride myself on my booking capabilities. I've signed up global terrorism experts, a former major league baseball commissioner, and the first American to summit Mount Everest twice. How was it possible that I couldn't get a contractor?
In desperation, I made my first costly mistake: a kitchen consultant.
A fine brew
To call The People's Pint a brew pub that serves food (which it is), is to leave out many ingredients. At a time when local and organic produce is all the rage at upscale and urban restaurants, and living off the land, or ''sustainable agriculture'' is the new ecology movement, this six-year-old business is a paradigm of both - and without any pretensions.
Housekeeping for newbies
The efforts of domestic diva Martha Stewart notwithstanding, home arts is a neglected field these days. Once mom would have schooled a prospective bride or a newly independent son on how to stock the pantry and plan meals. Home economists would buttress those efforts with high school courses and even give out phone advice. And the novice would study the ''about the kitchen'' chapters in ''The Joy of Cooking'' or ''The Fannie Farmer Cookbook,'' and end with weekly menu suggestions.
Grilled veggies can make your sandwiches sizzle
Deluxe burger is a Vermont local special
edited for "bassackwards" quotes
Edited by Fat Guy, 29 July 2003 - 07:34 PM.