14 replies to this topic

[Annoula]

I've always made a traditional ganache (for cake filling/covering) just with chocolate and cream. It was suggested to me yesterday -- by a sales rep from Valrhona -- that I consider making it with the addition of both invert sugar/syrup and butter. Presumably I'll see a world of difference in the texture.

Any and all comments/assistance welcome, but please note specifically I'm looking for a formula so I can whip up a trial.

Must admit I'm sceptical: my ganache has never been anything but very smooth (never 'grainy') so I'm trying to imagine how it could be so much better. Still, if it's true ...

Thanks!

[Mjx]

I've made both kinds of ganache many times, and although I've never tried them side by side, I would characterize both as 'extremely smooth'; my decision to make one or the other has to do with the flavour profile I'm seeking. So, I'd say your scepticism is warranted.

[Annoula]

Hi Mjx -- and thanks for the speedy return commentary.

I'm continuing to research this elsewhere on the Internet and was just coming to the conclusion -- perhaps wrongly, of course -- that the addition of invert sugar to ganache was warranted more when there was a shelf-life concern, as with centers for chocolates. I'm still uncertain of the role of the butter.

I'm interested in your comment about the flavor profile -- would you have a moment to elaborate?

Thanks again.

[Mjx]

I'm afraid it's a very simple thing: adding butter adds a buttery flavour (in the US, where the butters have a milder flavour, I don't notice this effect so much), which sometimes seems appropriate. I don't think I'd ever add butter to ganache I was going to use for truffles, but cakes that are very buttery often seem nicely complemented by a slightly buttery ganache icing (I use them in place of buttercream icings, which I don't care for). I often brown the butter slightly.

[gap]

Butter is often added to ganache for truffles and chocolates centres in general. It provides dairy fat without as much water as cream, which can help extend shelf life. It also aids the mouthfeel and texture of the final product. Invert sugar can assist texture and shelf life as well. I personally use both in my ganache formulae for chocolates.

[Annoula]

Mjx and gap, thanks for your comments. The buttery cake warrants a buttery ganache idea is interesting and I'll give that one a try. I'm less certain if I'll bother with the invert sugar or not -- after all, shelf-life for me is a non-issue!

[Panaderia Canadiense]

Annoula, if you're working with very dark chocolate for your ganache, the invert sugar becomes more important. In my experience, a dark chocolate ganache (say, 75% cocoa solids in your base chocolate) can easily go grainy if you're using rich cream, but about 5 mL of invert sugar for every 250 mL of cream / 10 oz of chocolate seems to smooth it out and also provides a bit of a gelling effect, so that the ganache sets up without cracking, dulling overmuch, or going bitty. And a little bit of butter goes a really long way! I primarily use ganache as a cake coating, and my recipe calls for a scant 1/2 oz of butter; I'd never omit it, since it imparts a nice shine and excellent mouthfeel to the final product - the flavour skews a bit towards fudge, but in a really good way: since I generally use Jeréz brandy as my main flavour for the dark ganache, a richer feel is almost called for.

[Annoula]

Panaderia, thanks for chiming in! I was just about to consider this 'done and dusted' or at least in regard to the invert sugar. Especially since you're working with cakes, I appreciate your help. And, yes, I'm usually working with a dark chocolate. Has it just been a matter of luck that I've never had to deal with grainy ganache? Lord knows I don't want that luck to run out suddenly on a wedding cake or some such.

Anyhow ... thanks for the formula for the invert sugar. For the same 250 ml cream, how much butter would you use -- the 1/2 oz. you mention? And do you make your own invert sugar? With ...?

[Panaderia Canadiense]

I buy my invert sugar as liquid invert glucose from a local chemical supply company....

My ganache recipe is thusly (adjust for your own chocolate accordingly; I blend).

250 mL heavy cream (mine is not marked as to fat content, but the heaviest I find is roughly equivalent to 35%)
5 oz mother of chocolate (99% cacao)
5 oz superior chocolate (75% cacao)
5 mL invert sugar
1/2 oz butter
45 mL brandy

Scald the cream, add the chocolate, and whisk gently until completely dissolved. Add the butter and invert sugar and stir until just combined, then add the brandy and stir until just combined. Comes out beautifully glossy and smooth every single time.

[Annoula]

Panaderia, again, thank you. I'll see if I can make some invert sugar today and then I'll try your ganache (or as close as i can get to it). I'll do my best to report back.

[Panaderia Canadiense]

Best of luck! In case you're wondering, that recipe comes out looking like this (this cake was made tonight for delivery tomorrow).

[Annoula]

VERY nice Panaderia! But it raises one question: how thick is the ganache you're applying? Is it more of a glaze (as it appears in your photo) or more of a "frosting" -- that is, a centimeter or so thick, perhaps whipped (how I'm usually using it).

Is the end consistency of your recipe toward liquidy? The amount of brandy struck me as high just for flavoring and now I'm wondering what consistency you're aiming for.

(And just an aside: what are those little beans/balls around the top edge?)

[Panaderia Canadiense]

It's thin enough to pour over the cake, but I apply in three successive layers so it ends up around 1 cm thick. However, once it's cooled to room temperature it's more like a deluxe frosting that can be either spread or piped (and that's how I use it on other cakes - for this one in particular I'm very fond of the velvet finish that it acheives when poured). Refrigerated, it's solid enough to form centers for chocolates, and behaves like a truffle.

(Those little balls around the edge are called Grageas; they're black sesame seeds covered in bittersweet chocolate.)

[Annoula]

Okay, interesting. Thanks. Perhaps a little more liquid, then, than I'm used to working with, but that's so easily adjusted. The sheen on yours is lovely.

Grageas, eh? An Ecuadorian treat I'd guess? I've only had black sesame on top of bread (Greek bread) which I absolutely love, but I'll just betcha I could be converted to loving them covered in bittersweet chocolate. After all, what's not good covered in bittersweet chocolate?!

Thanks again Panderia!

[Panaderia Canadiense]

They're actually common across Latin America as a cake decoration - I'm surprised they're not in other parts of the world! I use the largest ones available because I like the look - there are also smaller, crunchy ones that are about the size of large-grain sand which are formed around quinua.