73 replies to this topic

[David Ross]

It's that time of year where we once again begin planning our sojourn into the desert in search of the latest culinary offerings of Las Vegas at the 6th edition of Vegas Uncork'd.

I'm a Member of the Vegas Uncork'd Lifetime Club at this point, having attended the annual event since its inception in 2007. A review of our previous reports,(stretching back to 2008), provides a revealing look at how the food scene in Las Vegas has evolved, devolved and become renewed once again. Check them out here, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011.

Las Vegas is constantly re-inventing itself and given the turmoil of the global economy and its effects on Sin City, no doubt the struggle to again become something new, fresh and exciting has been the biggest challenge facing the Chefs and Restaurants that reside within the boundaries of Clark County.

Now with over a full year under his belt as Editor in Chief, Adam Rapoport commits to "taking the best of what has drawn more than 5,000 tourists to this event for the last five years and adding the editorial excitement and voice of the new Bon Appetit." "This is a brand-new Vegas Uncork'd," according to Mr. Rapoport, and one can see some of the new influence of the magazine on the list of new events added to the slate for Uncork'd 2012:

-A Master Series Dinner with Chef Michel Richard of Central at Caesar's Palace.

-"Follow that Food Truck," billed as a festival of the most-sought after food trucks from Las Vegas. (Yes, the food truck fad sweeping through the metropolises and small farm towns across America is coming to Las Vegas).

-New cooking demonstrations with the "Too-Hot" Tamales. Chefs Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken were at the forefront of cooking on television before Food Network was born have found a new resurgence in recent years due to appearances competing on "Top Chef Masters."

-New events at The Cosmopolitan Hotel including Chef Jose Andres, Costas Sipliadis and Scott Conant.

-New Sunday Brunch events with Chef Charlie Palmer at Aureole and Brunch with the Pellegrino family at Rao's.

Aside from the trappings and decadence of Uncork'd, we've been known to lurk into the truth behind what most only see as the façade of dining in Las Vegas and we won't let the week go by without once again supping at some of the restaurants not taking part in the festivities.

Long gone from the Las Vegas calendar are the throngs of conventioneers that used to attend annual events like the Auto Dealers meetings. The bailout of GM didn't necessarily save independent dealers. You won't see 100,000 independent GM dealers trekking up and down the Strip looking for a place to eat, paying $40 bucks for prime rib and pushing $2,000 bottles of Cabernet through on the expense account.

If they're still even in business,(and many of them aren't), the Auto Dealers are staying at home. Yet if that's true, then why do steakhouses not only thrive, but continue to open in Las Vegas today? Haven't the conventioneers left town? Are Mom and Pop still traveling to Las Vegas from Pocatello? Will they pay $60 dollars for Prime Rib and Yorkshire Pudding at Gordon Ramsey's new steakhouse in Las Vegas?

Such are the questions Yours Truly seeks to answer each year when attending Uncork'd. And along with picking-up a few gossipy tidbits about Las Vegas along the way, we'll provide our usual insightful, opinionated, often sarcastic but always honest reviews of each little tasty nugget we devour at Uncork'd.

You can access the 2012 Vegas Uncork'd website here.

Click here for the terms under which this event is listed in eG Forums.

[Chris Hennes]

What are the dates?

[David Ross]

May 10-13!

[Chris Hennes]

Is the whole event sold a la carte? I'm having a hard time figuring out what I'd have to budget to do this.

[David Ross]

Is the whole event sold a la carte? I'm having a hard time figuring out what I'd have to budget to do this.

Yes, unfortunately each event is sold on an individual basis. They've never offered different packages, which would of course make sense. And while they list hotels as sponsors, the hotels don't offer a discount to Uncork'd attendees. If you do lots of events and then throw in your hotel, airfare and other expenses, it is a very expensive long weekend.

[David Ross]

Is the whole event sold a la carte? I'm having a hard time figuring out what I'd have to budget to do this.

Yes, unfortunately each event is sold on an individual basis. They've never offered different packages, which would of course make sense. And while they list hotels as sponsors, the hotels don't offer a discount to Uncork'd attendees. If you do lots of events and then throw in your hotel, airfare and other expenses, it is a very expensive long weekend.

I would add though that some of the events at Uncork'd, while expensive, are really once in a lifetime experiences. I've had a private lunch for 12 guests with Alain Ducasse, numerous private dinners with Guy Savoy and only 30 guests and an intimate brunch with Joel Robuchon. I've taken classes with many James Beard Award-Winning Chefs. In my world, the cost has been a small price to pay for the opportunity.

[David Ross]

Vegas Uncork'd 2012 has added another new event--"Spago's 20th Anniversary Lunch," on Thursday, May 10.

Wolfgang Puck was the first well-known Chef to stake a claim in Las Vegas, and any restaurant in any city in America that celebrates its 20th Anniversary is doing something right. Restaurants in Las Vegas typically only last as long as they can keep the interest of the tourists, which isn't long. Considering that Uncork'd is a celebration of food and dining in Las Vegas, it's only fitting that Spago's 20th anniversary be recognized.

You can view the updated schedule here.

[ThomasColin]

David,

Which events are you going to this year? My wife and I just registered for the Guy Savoy dinner and also the Grand Tasting. We are super excited. Is there anything you would suggest as the "can't miss" event of the week?

I've read your reviews for the past few yers and we are super-excited.

We're going to be in town from Tuesday thru Monday.


Tuesday night= Valentino's (We went there after I proposed to my wife...We had our wedding reception here and we came back on our honeymoon). Needless to say Valentino's is very high on my favorite list of restaurants.
Wed= Something easy---- Pink's or maybe Mesa....
Thursday= Guy Savoy Dinner
Friday= Grand Tasting
Sat- -----------
Sun=-----------
Monday Flying Home....

We thought we might just see which Chef table we enjoyed most at the Gand Tasting and then try to get reservations there on Sat. or Sunday.

Have you been to any of the Poker events or the D.J. dance party event w/ Hubert Keller?

Love the forum, thanks for all your efforts!

Thomas Wooldridge

[David Ross]

David,

Which events are you going to this year? My wife and I just registered for the Guy Savoy dinner and also the Grand Tasting. We are super excited. Is there anything you would suggest as the "can't miss" event of the week?

I've read your reviews for the past few yers and we are super-excited.

We're going to be in town from Tuesday thru Monday.


Tuesday night= Valentino's (We went there after I proposed to my wife...We had our wedding reception here and we came back on our honeymoon). Needless to say Valentino's is very high on my favorite list of restaurants.
Wed= Something easy---- Pink's or maybe Mesa....
Thursday= Guy Savoy Dinner
Friday= Grand Tasting
Sat- -----------
Sun=-----------
Monday Flying Home....

We thought we might just see which Chef table we enjoyed most at the Gand Tasting and then try to get reservations there on Sat. or Sunday.

Have you been to any of the Poker events or the D.J. dance party event w/ Hubert Keller?

Love the forum, thanks for all your efforts!

Thomas Wooldridge

I'll be arriving on Tuesday, May 8. (I like to get in town early so I have the chance to do some dining before the events get started on Thursday).

You won't regret dining at Valentino. I'll check with you before your trip and give you some ideas on the best dishes to taste. Chef Pellegrini is not only a James Beard Award-Winning Chef but an incredible host.

This is my schedule so far for the Uncork'd events:

Thursday, May 10
-Spago 20th Anniversary Lunch, Spago--The Forum Shops at Caesar's, Chef Wolfgang Puck
-Master's Series Dinner, Central--Caesar's Palace, Chef Michel Richard

I'm going for something new on Thursday night this year with the dinner with Chef Richard. I was tiring of the Thursday dinners at Guy Savoy, but I've just spoken to a friend and Savoy has debuted a new Spring menu of dishes never before seen. They've brought things forward in terms of contemporary tastes and my guess is you'll experience some of these new dishes at your dinner at Savoy.

Friday, May 11
-My Favorite Things Lunch, Michael Mina--Bellagio, Chef Michael Mina
I'm really looking forward to this not only because I savor Chef Mina's cuisine, but because he hails from Eastern Washington where I live.
-Grand Tasting, Caesar's Palace

Saturday, May 12
-Chronicles of a Couple that Cook Together, Prime--Bellagio, Chef Jean Georges Vongerichten and his wife Marja, host of the PBS series "The Kimchi Chronicles."
-Surfside Beach Clambake, Mandalay Bay, Chefs Rick Moonen, Charlie Palmer, Susan Feniger, Mary Sue Milliken

Sunday, May 13
-Steak and Eggs with Charlie Palmer, Aureole--Mandalay Bay, Chef Charlie Palmer

Now let's see, that leaves many holes in the schedule for more eating! I'm departing for home, gorged on a week in Las Vegas, on Monday, May 14.

[ThomasColin]

Valentino's is very special to me. They usually take very good care of my wife and I when we are there. The dinner they put together for our wedding reception was amazing. The rabbit sausage gnocchi they had on the menu a few years ago......still one of the best dishes I've ever had.

Good to know about Chef Savoy. I'm expecting a once in a lifetime dinner that I'll remember forever.

You're not going to dance off some of these calories in the DJ party with Chef Keller? haha. I think we might need it after Tursday and Friday.

Edited by David Ross, 21 May 2012 - 05:42 PM.

[David Ross]

Valentino's is very special to me. They usually take very good care of my wife and I when we are there. The dinner they put together for our wedding reception was amazing. The rabbit sausage gnocchi they had on the menu a few years ago......still one of the best dishes I've ever had.

Good to know about Chef Savoy. I' expecting a once in a lifetime dinner that I'll remember forever.

You're not going to dance off some of these calories in the DJ party with Chef Keller? haha. I think we might need it after Tursday and Friday.

Savoy has some American products and new dishes on the menu. If you've never experienced the "bread cart," "cheese cart," "champagne cart," or the "dessert cart," well, just wait for a memorable experience.

While I may not dance, which is an offense in Clark County, (you know, the law against David Ross dancing), I never miss Chef Keller spinning some discs.

I've had many a memorable meals and dishes at Valentino--Baby Abalone from Australia, American Bison, the Parmesan Crisps and the most delicious, moist, Stuffed Quail you can imagine. But the most memorable dishes at Valentino are the Pastas with White Truffles from Alba, (in the Fall). Oh, and the Grappa!

[ChzHead]

So excited about this too! I've been wanting to go since 2007! My husband & I will be going to the Thursday dinner with Francois Payard, Friday Grand Tasting, and Saturday King of Cabernet.

David, since you've been so many times.....how should we plan our attack for the Grand Tasting? Come early, wear stretchy pants, and stay late?

[David Ross]

So excited about this too! I've been wanting to go since 2007! My husband & I will be going to the Thursday dinner with Francois Payard, Friday Grand Tasting, and Saturday King of Cabernet.

David, since you've been so many times.....how should we plan our attack for the Grand Tasting? Come early, wear stretchy pants, and stay late?

You'll enjoy Payard. The dining room only holds about 25 guests and so the personal attention and interaction with Chef Payard is much more intimate than at some of the other Thursday dinners. And don't just think of Payard as a sweetshop--the savory dishes are amazing.

It's best to get to the Grand Tasting early. Be prepared to see upwards of 1,500 or more people, and expect to see some bottlenecks getting to some of the booths. The flow of people goes in waves--starting with a flood of people to the booths of the celebrity Chefs, it then slows down a bit, then rises up again in terms of the traffic. You'll see people dressed to the nines, (as is typical in Las Vegas), or very casual.

I typically do a pass through the area and check out the booths and what they are serving, then I go back again and hit my favorites. Don't worry that any booth will run out of food, I've never seen that happen. Imagine, Guy Savoy serves his signature Artichoke Soup with Black Truffle and Brioche--for about 4 hours and never runs out. That's a lot of truffles!

[ChzHead]

David, thank you SO MUCH! DAMN! That is a lot of truffles! SO looking forward to this!

One of my culinary highlights in the last few years was to meet Guy Savoy at the opening of his Las Vegas restaurant.

[C Simril]

I went to the 2011 Uncork'd. All the events were interesting and I enjoyed meeting some of the chefs, but the highlight of the trip for me was dinner at Valentino's, not part of Uncork'd. Thanks to David Ross for recommending it. I hope I can return there during truffle season one of these years, which thankfully is in the fall. May in Vegas is way too hot for me.

[David Ross]

It certainly can get warm in May, but overall I think it's pretty nice. The Grand Tasting around the pools at Caesar's has always been blessed with nice weather. I do however avoid Las Vegas in July and August. I stopped going down during those months about 5 years ago after one trip where I slugged through 114 temps.

[ThomasColin]

It's great to see all the Valentino's love in this forum. I've been going for about 5 years and every dinner was amazing. We've been so many times that they started putting us in the special wine rooms off to the side. Both the attention to detail and the service have always been outstanding.

Most of the time when we are there it is not very busy and its always surprised me that it is not better known or rated higher.

I know Savoy and Robuchon are the most expensive restaurants I've experienced in Vegas... but Valentino's is my personal favorite.

I wonder why Chef Pellegrini is not involved in Uncork'd. The gnochhi would go over so well at the Grand Tasting.

[David Ross]

It's great to see all the Valentino's love in this forum. I've been going for about 5 years and every dinner was amazing. We've been so many times that they started putting us in the special wine rooms off to the side. Both the attention to detail and the service have always been outstanding.

Most of the time when we are there it is not very busy and its always surprised me that it is not better known or rated higher.

I know Savoy and Robuchon are the most expensive restaurants I've experienced in Vegas... but Valentino's is my personal favorite.

I wonder why Chef Pellegrini is not involved in Uncork'd. The gnochhi would go over so well at the Grand Tasting.

Valentino will probably have a booth at the Grand Tasting--but they really should be involved in one of the Masters Series Dinners on Thursday night. Unfortunately, Thursday night is the realm of Caesar's so only their restaurants are involved. The Venetian, (home to Valentino), and the Palazzo haven't been overly involved with Uncork'd in the past other than the Grand Tasting, which is a shame.

I've had suckling pig and all manner of pastas prepared by the Valentino crew and served at public events--and they consistently are ranked as one of the best at these types of large gatherings. I think of Valentino as the age-old craftsmen, steady as she goes and their work is always precise. While they are conscientious of the trends in tastes, they don't do things to be "trendy" like so many of the celebrity Chefdoms in Las Vegas.

[David Ross]

David,

Which events are you going to this year? My wife and I just registered for the Guy Savoy dinner and also the Grand Tasting. We are super excited. Is there anything you would suggest as the "can't miss" event of the week?

I've read your reviews for the past few yers and we are super-excited.

We're going to be in town from Tuesday thru Monday.


Tuesday night= Valentino's (We went there after I proposed to my wife...We had our wedding reception here and we came back on our honeymoon). Needless to say Valentino's is very high on my favorite list of restaurants.
Wed= Something easy---- Pink's or maybe Mesa....
Thursday= Guy Savoy Dinner
Friday= Grand Tasting
Sat- -----------
Sun=-----------
Monday Flying Home....

We thought we might just see which Chef table we enjoyed most at the Gand Tasting and then try to get reservations there on Sat. or Sunday.

Have you been to any of the Poker events or the D.J. dance party event w/ Hubert Keller?

Love the forum, thanks for all your efforts!

Thomas Wooldridge

I'll be arriving on Tuesday, May 8. (I like to get in town early so I have the chance to do some dining before the events get started on Thursday).

You won't regret dining at Valentino. I'll check with you before your trip and give you some ideas on the best dishes to taste. Chef Pellegrini is not only a James Beard Award-Winning Chef but an incredible host.

This is my schedule so far for the Uncork'd events:

Thursday, May 10
-Spago 20th Anniversary Lunch, Spago--The Forum Shops at Caesar's, Chef Wolfgang Puck
-Master's Series Dinner, Central--Caesar's Palace, Chef Michel Richard

I'm going for something new on Thursday night this year with the dinner with Chef Richard. I was tiring of Guy Savoy, (imagine that), but I've just spoken to a friend and Savoy has debuted a new Spring menu of dishes never before seen. They've brought things forward in terms of contemporary tastes and my guess is you'll experience some of these new dishes at your dinner at Savoy.

Friday, May 11
-My Favorite Things Lunch, Michael Mina--Bellagio, Chef Michael Mina
I'm really looking forward to this not only because I savor Chef Mina's cuisine, but because he hails from Eastern Washington where I live.
-Grand Tasting, Caesar's Palace

Saturday, May 12
-Chronicles of a Couple that Cook Together, Prime--Bellagio, Chef Jean Georges Vongerichten and his wife Marja, host of the PBS series "The Kimchi Chronicles."
-Surfside Beach Clambake, Mandalay Bay, Chefs Rick Moonen, Charlie Palmer, Susan Feniger, Mary Sue Milliken

Sunday, May 13
-Steak and Eggs with Charlie Palmer, Aureole--Mandalay Bay, Chef Charlie Palmer

Now let's see, that leaves many holes in the schedule for more eating! I'm departing for home, gorged on a week in Las Vegas, on Monday, May 14.

I'm arriving in Las Vegas on Tuesday, May 8. This is my latest list of dining venues outside the events at Uncork'd-

Tuesday, May 8
-Lunch at Lobster ME at the shops at Planet Hollywood. It's been getting decent reviews for it's Lobster Rolls and other offerings, albeit in a fast food
setting/concept.
-Dinner at Le Cirque at Bellagio. I haven't been for two years so I'm excited to taste the cuisine of Chef Gregory Pugin who arrived in Las Vegas in 2011. Chef Pugin was formerly at Veritas in New York.

Wednesday, May 9
-This is usually reserved as my "tourist" day. Breakfast at either the Wicked Spoon at The Cosmopolitan, or I may take a nose dive into the trend of feasting on Chicken and Waffles at Hash House A Go Go.
-Lunch is still open, probably something in the area of the Luxor, Mandalay Bay or MGM. You'll remember my report on Vegas Uncork'd 2010 and the very distasteful experience at dinner at RM Seafood at Mandalay Bay. Since that infamous repast, Chef Adam Soebel has left Las Vegas and RM has supposedly worked out some of the previous gaps in service. I suppose time has somewhat healed the wounds of that night, so I'm pondering going to lunch at Chef Moonen's RM Cafe downstairs, albeit if I can muster the courage to spend $25 on "sustainable" Fish and Chips. Or I might head to Emeril's New Orleans Fish House at the MGM for the Oyster Po'Boy and Barbecued Shrimp. Emeril's housemade Worcestershire sauce is like no other.
-Dinner at Comme Ca in the Cosmopolitan with some local residents of Las Vegas. We're hoping Chef Brian Howard will tempt us with some of his newest dishes, including Tongue, Oxtail and Bone Marrow.

Sunday, May 13
-After gorging on a brunch of Steak and Eggs with Charlie Palmer, we'll probably head to Asia town off the strip to taste some of the new and exciting Japanese restaurants that have just opened in Las Vegas. Sometimes the real jewels of Las Vegas dining aren't located on Las Vegas Boulevard South.

[C Simril]

When I was in Vegas in Feb, the crab cake I had at RM downstairs was better than I thought possible. Catfish sloppy joe had good sauce but was surprisingly lacking in catfish. My server told me the seafood was the most sustainable in Vegas, but I didn't consider that a good thing- Every place should embrace that ethic. Had a good conversation with Rick about that later- he says he leads by example but doesn't seem to have many followers.
Turbot at Le Cirque was as good as Jose Andres' turbot as part of his massive E meal, but neither as good as the turbot at Picasso. Managed to dine not too expensively at Guy Savoy- ordering half portions last year and just bubbles and bites this year, but it's my favourite Vegas restaurant.
I'm surprised Milos hasn't been mentioned in this thread. Great lunch bargain, and more importantly, exquisite fish (Lavraki, their specialty) and a tomato salad (the secret is their special olive oil- don't wait for the waitress to tell you dip your bread in it!) as far above every other tomato salad I've ever eaten as Moonen's crabcake exceeded all competition.
I read John Curtas's Eating Las Vegas blog daily, but haven't had the best of luck finding the dishes he raves about at the restaurants. The halibut with squash blossom he raved about at Sirio a few days ago looks good, but whether you'll actually be able to eat it there is unknown.

[jsmeeker]

So excited about this too! I've been wanting to go since 2007! My husband & I will be going to the Thursday dinner with Francois Payard, Friday Grand Tasting, and Saturday King of Cabernet.

David, since you've been so many times.....how should we plan our attack for the Grand Tasting? Come early, wear stretchy pants, and stay late?

You better be able to deal with big crowds. Certain areas of the pool deck get really crowded. But if you are patient, you'll get your food. There will be plenty to eat. You won't be able to eat from every booth.

Have fun.

[David Ross]

When I was in Vegas in Feb, the crab cake I had at RM downstairs was better than I thought possible. Catfish sloppy joe had good sauce but was surprisingly lacking in catfish. My server told me the seafood was the most sustainable in Vegas, but I didn't consider that a good thing- Every place should embrace that ethic. Had a good conversation with Rick about that later- he says he leads by example but doesn't seem to have many followers.
Turbot at Le Cirque was as good as Jose Andres' turbot as part of his massive E meal, but neither as good as the turbot at Picasso. Managed to dine not too expensively at Guy Savoy- ordering half portions last year and just bubbles and bites this year, but it's my favourite Vegas restaurant.
I'm surprised Milos hasn't been mentioned in this thread. Great lunch bargain, and more importantly, exquisite fish (Lavraki, their specialty) and a tomato salad (the secret is their special olive oil- don't wait for the waitress to tell you dip your bread in it!) as far above every other tomato salad I've ever eaten as Moonen's crabcake exceeded all competition.
I read John Curtas's Eating Las Vegas blog daily, but haven't had the best of luck finding the dishes he raves about at the restaurants. The halibut with squash blossom he raved about at Sirio a few days ago looks good, but whether you'll actually be able to eat it there is unknown.

For some reason, Milos at The Cosmopolitan just doesn't get much press or discussion. They are one of the featured participants at the lunch series. I'll be at other lunches, but I hope that the Uncork'd folks sell-out the Milos lunch. It's good for their business and would generate some buzz for the restaurant among the serious food crowd.

[David Ross]

So excited about this too! I've been wanting to go since 2007! My husband & I will be going to the Thursday dinner with Francois Payard, Friday Grand Tasting, and Saturday King of Cabernet.

David, since you've been so many times.....how should we plan our attack for the Grand Tasting? Come early, wear stretchy pants, and stay late? [url="http://forums.egullet.org/public/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif"]http://forums.egulle...fault/blink.gif[/url]

You better be able to deal with big crowds. Certain areas of the pool deck get really crowded. But if you are patient, you'll get your food. There will be plenty to eat. You won't be able to eat from every booth.

Have fun.

Jeff's right. You won't go hungry, but may not be able to bust through the crowds at every booth. That's why I go scope out the dishes that interest me first, then make a second lap to eat. And you'll also be tempted by plenty of free pours of wine and cocktails.

[janeer]

I was hoping to go this year, but no. Always look forward to David's blow-by-blow.

[David Ross]

Tuesday, May 8, The Journey Begins-

I usually travel to Las Vegas a few days in advance of the official Uncork'd events that begin on Thursday so I can do some "pre-Uncork'd" dining on my own. And so this morning the journey begins with a very early flight out of Spokane West to Seattle. Yes, in some cases one must go West to then go South. One of the nice touches of flying on Horizon Air is that you get a fresh cup of hot Starbuck's coffee brewed just before the boarding process begins.

Unfortunately, some of the breakfast offerings at the Seattle Airport are far less tasteful than the Starbuck's served onboard the early morning flight. One can only hope that the food we'll be tasting in Las Vegas far exceeds the tepid potatoes, limp eggs, and mystery sausage served at one of the food court outlets at Seattle's major airport.

This year we've got probably our biggest contingent of eGullet Members attending Vegas Uncork'd, and so I hope we'll see a variety of differing tastes, opinions and photo reports on everyone's experiences. And I think I'll add in some new thoughts and discussion points this year that we haven't seriously chewed on in past reports-

-Will the British invasion of Gordon Ramsay in Las Vegas this week overshadow the celebrations of Uncork'd? Gordon Ramsay "STEAK" had it's "soft" opening at the Paris Hotel last night and Ramsay is scheduled to make a number of press appearances throughout the week leading up to the "grand" opening of the restaurant on Friday. Can Ramsay trump all the other Chefs in Las Vegas this week, including the Apostles of French Cuisine, Ducasse, Savoy, Gagnaire and Robuchon?
-New steakhouses have opened in Las Vegas in the past year. Will the steakhouse stampede ever wane?
-Are the new garde of Chefs changing the old classifications of Las Vegas dining?
-Why is it hard to find a decent breakfast in Las Vegas?

And finally, sticking with the foundation of this event, we'll talk about Bon Appetit. It's been just over a year that the new Editor has been in charge, so we'll discuss how he's shaped and changed the magazine both in graphic style and content. And we'll share our musings on how he's influenced change at Uncork'd, for better or worse. Let the fun begin.

[janeer]

And so it begins...We await.

[David Ross]

Tuesday, May 8, Lunch, Lobster ME, The Shops at Planet Hollywood-

What? You ate fast-food for lunch on your first day in Las Vegas? And you're attending a culinary event? Some would say that's sacrilegious, but today I broke the boundaries of that conventional thinking and ate lunch at what is billed as a fast-food joint, Lobster ME. Now let me just state right here and now that I'm no expert on either Lobster or Lobster Rolls. I hail from the Pacific Northwest and I can lay claim to being somewhat of a culinary expert when it comes to Salmon, Halibut and Dungeness Crabs, but I'm no expert on Lobster Rolls. I can report back that after today I am hooked on this quintessential New England sandwich.





Lobster ME opened in the past year in the Miracle Mile Shops at Planet Hollywood. They bill their Lobster Rolls as the "World's Best," a marketing ploy that no doubt could be tested by any number of our Members who hail from the New England states. They employ only cold-water lobster from the North Atlantic and serve it in any number of various lobster-from the Lobster and Waffles ($9.50) and the Lobster Benedict ($9.50) served at breakfast, to the "Lobsicle," (fried Lobster on a stick), Lobster Grilled Cheese, Lobster Mac'n Cheese and Lobster and Chips served later in the day. But their signature menu item is the Lobster Roll served in either a "large" or "extra-large" portion. The large Lobster Roll carries the meat of a 1 1/2 pounder and the extra-large a 2lb. Lobster. For $20.00, one gets a large Lobster Roll, very good, crispy fries and a drink. I think that's a reasonable price for a delicious roll with 1 1/2 pounds of meat, including claw, tail and body meat.

The roll is nestled in a buttered, toasted brioche roll split down the top lengthwise and then filled with lobster meat, mayonnaise, lemon and what they call "special spices." Those "spices" turned out to be dried oregano and were an after-thought better left on the shelf. A dusting of Old Bay would have been a better choice, but in all honesty, this delicious, buttery, tender, fresh Lobster didn't need anything other than it's natural, cold, salt-water beauty to proclaim a Northwesterner a fan of a New England classic.



No, I didn't try their frozen version of Lobster.

[David Ross]

Tuesday, May 8, Dinner, Le Cirque, Bellagio-

14 years ago, a New York institution arrived in Las Vegas--and they are still setting the standard today for service and cuisine in a manner that is unmatched in this city of culinary achievement.

[David Ross]

Tuesday, May 8, (cont'd.), Dinner, Le Cirque, Bellagio-

Sirio Maccioni made a very wise decision 14 years ago when he signed a contract to open Le Cirque at the Bellagio. In the years since, the restaurant has not only survived but flourished. In a city where a new restaurant can be forgotten just mere weeks after opening, 14 years in business, (especially at an elite, fine-dining level), is virtually unheard of. The beloved Alex at The Wynn shuttered its grand staircase and kitchen over a year ago, and last week Chef Pascal Sanchez announced he was leaving Pierre Gagnaire’s Twist to return to his French homeland. Yet while others fade away, Le Cirque endures.

On a Tuesday night in early May, the 25 tables at Le Cirque were booked. The room sets the tone for formality yet whimsy and pleasure abound. Similar to the décor of Le Cirque New York, the walls are adorned with playful circus-themed murals. The "circus tent" defines the center of the room, with a big-top composed of vivid-colored, billowing silk drapes anchored by a chandelier, cascading from the ceiling down to the dining room with dramatic flair.

The service at Le Cirque is attentive yet comfortable. As I watched the performance unfold, every guest was given the same, consistently gracious service—no customer was fawned over due to either their status or celebrity—a welcome sign in a city whose servers tend to apply perceived social standards upon their guests. One is addressed as “Sir” or “Madame,” yet the formality never steps over the line and becomes pandering. Waiters prance through the room with silver on linen-covered silver trays, quickly delivering your fish fork and meat knife. With the exception of only Robuchon, Le Cirque provides the best service in Las Vegas.

But Le Cirque doesn’t rest on its New York laurels. The restaurant recently named a new Executive Chef, and the menu is composed of both “Classics,” (dishes popular wtih regular customers), and “Seasonal Selections,” where the Chef is given the creative reins to craft recipes focused on today’s tastes. There is a respect for tradition, yet an understanding of how cuisine and creativity must evolve to stay relevant.

Chef Gregory Pugin was selected out of 20 very fortunate candidates as the new Chef at Le Cirque Las Vegas. I spoke to Ivo Angelov, the hospitable General Manager, about the process involved to name a new Chef at Le Cirque. One can only imagine that it is a daunting task for both the candidates and those who are given the responsibility of making the selection.

Mr. Angelov told me that 20 Chefs were selected to come to Las Vegas and cook in the Le Cirque kitchen. Each was charged with presenting a 6-course menu to a tasting panel of discriminating palates, including Management and Sommeliers. Chef Pugin, who hails from Tarbes in Southwest France, (and one who spent a good deal of time in some of New York’s finest establishments), was named to the post. And oh how he presents a world of unique flavors and stunning presentations.

I left myself in the hands of Mr. Angelov and Mr. William Moss, the head Sommelier at Le Cirque. My only request, ice with the bottled still water and a mix of both Le Cirque “Classics” and choices from the new “Spring Selections” menus.

I can only tempt you with the menu descriptions and a few comments on the dishes and wines. No photos accompany my report on Le Cirque, due in part to the low lighting in the dining room and also due to my fascination with the celebrations all around and my focus on the food.

Guests can choose from the ala carte menu, selecting an appetizer, main course and dessert for $98. Some selections, like Caviar, Wagyu Beef and Lobster carry supplemental charges. You may also opt for the Degustation Menu of 6-courses for $135 per person with either a Sommelier wine pairing at $68 or a Premium wine pairing at $88. I was presented with 8 courses accompanied by wines poured by the Sommelier.

Five breads were offered, including Sourdough, Baguette, Bacon-Onion and Pretzel. The butter is pressed into the Le Cirque logo, unsalted to the left, salted to the right.

My champagne cocktail arrived and was quickly followed by an Amuse Bouche of a delicate and herbaceous, cold Spring Sweet Pea Soup. And then the main performance began-

-Langoustines au Caviar
Citrus-Marinated New Zealand Langoustine, Osetra Caviar, Tapioca, Passion Fruit, Apple and Vodka Gelee-

The menu didn’t do ultimate justice to the dish as the Langoustine was layered on top of a tender nugget of Hamachi Yellowtail and the Caviar was crowned with thin little shavings of Gold Dust. (Gold Dust is used as a garnish on a number of dishes at Le Cirque).

Served with Ruinart Champagne, Blanc de Blanc, Reims

-Le King Crabe et Petits Pois a la Francaise
Alaskan King Crab, English Peas, Pea Shoots, Spring Onions-

The flavors of Chef Pugin’s dishes won’t shock you. They are not intended to do so in my opinion. Rather, the clean, slightly salty yet sweet taste, (a briny-butter flavor if you will), of King Crab from Alaska is so delicate, so delicious, you are grateful that the chef didn’t destroy it with some superfluous garnishes or trendy hot peppers. Less is often more with Chef Pugin's cuisine and you will be thankful for that.

Served with Puligny-Montrachet, Jean Chartron, Burgundy Region, 2009.

-Santa Barbara Sea Urchin “Ice Cream,” Ginger-Lemongrass Gelee, Fennel Puree

Served in a ceramic “Sea Urchin” shell resting on a bed of sea salt and pink peppercorns, this was the best dish of the evening—creamy, unctuous and silken, subtle yet defined, without the overpowering flavor that is characteristic of Sea Urchin.

Served with a Joseph Drouhin, Chablis, Burgundy Region, 2009

-Terrine de Foie Gras a la Fraise Poivree
Lillet-Marinated Foie Gras Terrine, Spiced Strawberry Gelee, Spring Basil, Arugula, Black Pepper Brioche-

I think the Chef was teasing me with this course. Merely two bites of foie gras terrine so smooth it melted on the palate, just two bites. I believe it was truly an attempt to lure me with the false hope of a whole crock of foie gras packed in a box for my walk home.

Served with Pinot Gris Sonnenglanz, Bott-Geyl, Alsace, 2007

-Traditional Seafood Bouillabaisse, Fennel Confit, Purple Vitelottes, Shelfish Fumet, Saffron Rouille
The dish was brought to the table covered with a china dome that was removed to reveal Clam, Squid, Lobster, Halibut and Scallop. An intricate lattice of Snow Pea and Sweet Carrot blanketed the Halibut, and the rich Shellfish Fumet, (actually more a Bisque than a Fumet), was poured into the bowl by the waiter.

Served with a Tavel Rose, Prieure de Montezargues, Rhone, 2010

-Degustation d’Agneau du Colorado
Colorado Lamb Trio, Rack, Shoulder Confit and Sweetbread, Carrot and Tumeric, Cumin Chickpea Puree, Couscous au Broccoli-

We travelled Southeast of France to North Africa and the Middle East for the meat course. A minor quibble in this dish was that the Lamb Sweetbread was apparently either forgotten or got lost under the tiny cap of a Sweet Red Pepper. But the stars of this dish weren’t the tender Lamb Rack, the braised Shoulder or the Sweetbread, it was the little domed ceramic claypot that held forth hot, soft Couscous au Broccoli. Finally, a Chef who made me like both Couscous and Broccoli.

Served with Pomerol, Chateau Rouget, Bordeaux, 2005

-Cheese Course
At this point I was overtaken with the wine and fabulous cuisine, so my note-taking tasks were no longer worthy. A small disk of pungent and tangy Sheep’s Milk cheese was shaved into a fan and accompanied with small dots of Balsamic reduction and Raisin Bread.

-Green Apple Degustation
Lemongrass Mousse, Caramelized Rice Crispies, Sorbet Muscat Beaumes de Venise-

Did I just say that the Sea Urchin was my favorite dish of the evening? Can I change my answer to the Green Apple dessert? One wonders how a Chef can evoke such a clean, intense, natural level of flavor from a simple Green Apple. And don’t think the dishes at Le Cirque are staid and dated. The Caramelized Rice Crispies added just a light touch of crunch and candy, sort of your Mom’s Rice Crispy Treats and Green Apple Soda served on the porch. Sort of.

Served with Sauternes, Le Tertre du Lys d’Or, Bordeaux, 2005

Mr. Angelov told me that many members of the staff, from the Sommeliers, to the Waiters and Servers, have been at Le Cirque Las Vegas for the full 14 years the restaurant has been in service. A remarkable record of consistency that is demonstrated in the service to the guests.

I’m told that Mr. Maccioni will be opening a Sirio restaurant in the Pierre Hotel in New York in the coming months. More wonderful service and delicious food to please his customers.

Handshakes and thank you's are related to the Staff, then you are sent home with a sweet taste of a memorable experience-









When I got back to my hotel room, I wrote down some thoughts in my food diary while in a wine-induced stupor. Then I tucked the notebook away and fell asleep. This morning I opened the diary and found these words, “Sometimes we dream of the perfect dining experience. Sometimes dreams come true…”

[David Ross]

Wednesday, May 9, Breakfast, The Wicked Spoon Buffet, The Cosmopolitan-

A local friend of mine who lives in Las Vegas once said that “Buffets are feeding troughs for tourists.” After years and years of trying every buffet in Las Vegas, I’ve come to the realization that my friend is right. The Wicked Spoon Buffet at The Cosmopolitan would be the offensive buffet that turned me into a believer of the feeding trough mentality.

You’ll remember from my report one year ago that the newly opened Wicked Spoon was turning the tables upside down on the original concept of the Las Vegas buffet. No longer would the customer find steam trays full of wilted potatoes and rubber chicken. At the Wicked Spoon, individual portions of Crispy Fried Chicken in little fry baskets were displayed next to paper cones of Frites. The kitchens were turning out dishes that hadn’t been seen before on a buffet—Bone Marrow, Vietnamese Banh Mi Buns and housemade Charcuterie. Apparently, the excitement of the opening a year ago has melted away and based on my experience this morning, the Wicked Spoon is no longer Wicked.

-Seafood, a standard-bearer at most of the top-flight buffets in Las Vegas was starkly missing from the counter at the Wicked Spoon. There were plates of good, house-cured Salmon Gravlax, but that was it. No Herring, no Smoked Whitefish, no Pate or Terrines, all common offerings for breakfast at the buffets at Wynn and Bellagio. There were about 5 different housemade Meats, but only 3 sad little cheeses. The bleu cheese was clumped into a bowl, apparently the same stuff they sprinkle on the limpid Caesar Salad.

-The bread truck must have missed its morning stop at The Cosmopolitan this morning, as the offerings were puny and embarrassing-white, sourdough, and marble rye, some biscuits and at the other end of the line, two types of croissants. You could stand next to the toaster while your white bread got browned. There was no butter, only a flavorless white spread with a menu card that said “whipped butter.” It wasn’t. About 45 minutes after opening, one of the cooks laid out some bagels. It would have been nice to have the bakery case full when the store opened.

-The Tacos El Pastor were good, as was the Pico de Gallo and Creamy Avocado Sauce. But the little bowl next door called “Irish Skillet,” was musty and off-putting. I doubt there’s an Irish Chef on Staff to make a traditional Irish Breakfast. The concoction was made-up of a base of Mushroom and Tomato Stew and oddball pieces of Zucchini. A decent Fried Egg was placed on top of the stew, but the whole mess was made worse by slices of bad Sausage.

-There were two types of Eggs Benedict on offer, both needing the blessing of a Benedictine Monk. As is common with Eggs Benedict on a buffet, these poor fellows sat in a separated pool of Hollandaise, the yolks having congealed long ago on top of English Muffins that had withered into mush.

-The little ceramic pots of warm, pure maple syrup that used to accompany the pancakes and waffles have been replaced by one big, ugly coffee carafe filled with cold syrup. The syrup is cold becase the top of the pot is missing.

-There were some very good dishes-Korean Fried Chicken Wings, Housemade Italian Sausage, Applewood-Smoked Bacon and the Gherkins that came out of a bottle.

-The two sweets I tasted , (both puddings in tiny plastic cups), were good, but I think the sweets truck got lost behind the bread truck on the way to the hotel. You could have literally put all the sweets on a small kitchen table—it was a fraction of the offerings you’ll find at most buffets.

I entered the Wicked Spoon at 8 am when it opened. I asked the waiter for Coffee and Ice Water. I got the Coffee, but got a glass and a bottle of still water, no ice. Details are the dearth of a restaurant if I’m in the house. The waiter apparently needed to go off shift and take a break at 8:15, 15 minutes after opening, and another waiter took over. He stopped by once, then also went on break. Or missing.

I have fully come to the realization of my friend, buffets really are a “feeding trough for tourists.” Sadly, my buffet days ended on a sour note. You would be better served to have a plated breakfast at the coffee shop at the Flamingo rather than the mush that is put out in steam trays across town. If you don’t need a big morning meal, coffee and pastry at any number of shops will serve you well.