My friend recently went to Bareiss in Baiersbronn, here is what he thought.
The tiny village of Baiersbronn is, alongside Bergisch Gladbach, what you could call Germany's culinary heart. For they are the only places in the Federal Republic in which not only one, but two three-star restaurants are located
In contrast to the style of the chefs in the more Northern village, Joachim Wissler and Nils Henkel, the cooking in the Black Forest is more traditional. The classical French kitchen of the Bareiss is lead by chef Claus-Peter Lumpp who spent some time as an apprentice in this very restaurant (then still called Kurhotel Mitteltal). After his apprenticeship he embarked on a tour of Europe to perfect his skills, working with great chefs such as Joachim Wissler, Heinz Winkler and Alain Ducasse to name but a few. In 1992 he returned to the Bareiss, and eventually became the head chef, bringing the restaurant Bareiss its third Michelin star in 2007.
Don't come here to count calories, but to enjoy a tasty, classical meal
Lumpp's cooking is not only classical, but also very generous. His dishes tend to serve a product in more than one form, giving the diner a highly interesting perspective of what can be done with any given ingredient. This foie gras starter is one of his signature dishes, and is indeed impressive. The main ingredients are beetroot and caramel, which both work really well with the liver. The quality of the foie gras is excellent, which can also be said of the cooking. A real treat! However, to make this clear, Lumpp really is a generous man, who's cooking reflects this. Don't come here to count calories, but to enjoy a tasty, classical meal.
The same goes for the lamb, which consists of a braised lamb with a crispy crust and a strong stew with a hearty and concentrated jus. This is another beautiful example of the intensely-flavoured cooking of Lumpp. The meat comes from a Black Forest lamb and is accompanied by a concentrated jus and chanterelles (or Pfifferlinge as they say in Germany). It is a dish that is both strong and earthy, and pretty rich.
The restaurant Bareiss is a solid three star restaurant with strong flavoured classic kitchen were you will certainly not leave with an empty stomach. The chef's generosity both in terms of the portions and style of cooking are most welcome in days where the trend calls for ever more minuscule arrangements on massive plates.
Restaurant Bareiss, Baiersbronn
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